Improving the CZ 100's Trigger Break

[dleong]

Hello, all!

In our continuing quest to improve the CZ 100's trigger, I thought I'd mention the results of a little modification to the innards of my CZ 100 that seems to have improved its trigger break significantly. This modification was actually performed a few weeks ago, but I did not want to share the results until I had fired several hundred rounds and was sure there were no adverse side-effects.

Here is what I did:

1. I used a Dremel tool with a griding attachment and ground the tiny "claw" atop the trigger bar (part #32) down to about two-thirds its original height. This claw engages the lug on the underside of the firing pin (part #15) when the trigger bar moves backward.

2. I took a pair of pliers and bent the top of the trigger bar disconnector (part #42) slightly forward, so that it engages and depresses the rear of the trigger bar sooner on the bar's rearward stroke. I also used the Dremel tool and ground a shallow bevel on the bottom edge of the disconnector where it initially contacts the trigger bar.

My intentions with these modifications were to reduce the amount of downward effort required to disengage the trigger bar's claw from the firing pin, and to make the trigger break earlier in its stroke. I believe these objectives have been met, as the trigger now breaks with no discernible stacking, and the break point has actually moved forward about an eighth of an inch as measured at the tip of the trigger.

My one initial concern was that the firing pin would not strike the primer hard enough for ignition, as it was being released earlier in its rearward stroke and seemed to spring forward less forcefully. However, several hundred successful discharges with no misfires since the modifications have dispelled that concern.

My particular CZ 100 was manufactured in 1998. I do not know if CZ has modified the trigger mechanism since then, so I do not know if these modifications will work for your particular CZ 100. They certainly did for me, and now my CZ 100 is a whole lot more fun to shoot!

DL

[JAG357]

Delong - I am getting a new CZ100 next weekend.  This appears to be a refinement to a larger body of instructions on improving the trigger.  Do you have a link to the complete instructions?  I looked throughout this forum and came short (could be me overlooking something obvious).  I carry a S&W Centennial right now and am used to a DAO pull.  It will be interesting to see how it compares to the CZ100.

[Unregistered(d)]

Here's a link to one of the most comprehensive reports on improving the trigger break.  My 100 was made in 2000, and all I did was polish the top of the trigger bar where it meets the disconnector, and it's improved 100%.  I'm going to try changing the angle of the disconnector, but I think I'll leave the rest alone.  I wouldn't want to make the firing pin to easy to release.


www.handgunreview.com/rev...z.html#100

[dleong]

JAG357,

The link provided by ceetee (thanks, ceetee!) contains good information about improving the 100's trigger pull, but, from my experience, it does not address the problem of the large amount of effort needed to overcome the last bit of stacking/resistance just before the trigger breaks. In the case of my 100, performing the steps outlined in the link did considerably reduce the grittiness of the trigger's take-up, but did not reduce the stacking at the break.

From what I could deduce, the stacking was caused by the additional effort needed to force the trigger bar against and under the disconnector, and also to disengage the claw from the firing pin. I figured that reducing the height of the claw would result in less rearward movement needed for the disengagement to occur after the trigger bar contacted the disconnector, and move the disengagement point forward since the trigger bar would need to move downward less for the shorter claw to clear.

Additionally, I noticed that the rear of the trigger bar was not contacting the very forward edge of the disconnector. This gave me the idea of bending the top of the disconnector slightly forward so that it would engage the trigger bar sooner and thereby shorten the trigger stroke.

The combination of the two modifications (i.e., the ones outlined in ceetee's link to improve the trigger pull, and those outlined in this thread to improve the trigger break) have significantly increased my enjoyment of the 100 to the point where it follows me to the range everytime.

DL

(Next project: Hmmmm... perhaps there is a way to convert the 100 to DA/SA with just a hammer and a chisel...  )

[Unregistered(d)]

Hey, let me know how it goes; I've got a hammer and a screwdriver (too cheap for a chisel)...