Setting headspace with new barrel install.

[JohnEd]

All my barrels head-space on threads and my Savage uses a NUT.  I get pretty close with those.

Barrel insertion into the receiver is, by definition, head space adjustment on a CZ.  You sink it deeper you get less head space.  I didn't press my barrels into the correct depth as when I started off I wanted to "tap" the barrel into a starting posit before I applied the hydraulic press.  I tapped it with a rubber dead-drop hammer and the barrel went in as if by magic.  Little by little, and relatively gently, the barrel approached contact with the Bolt with the with the Go Gauge installed.  Finally a sharp click from the barrel/receiver and precise head-space was achieved.  The No-Go Gauge left the carrier sitting 3/8 inch away from the sight block.  Perfect.  That was the only one of the three that went that smooth but the other two just sank the barrel a little to far.  Maybe to the No-Go depth.  A couple sharp raps on the carrier with a brass hammer brought all into precise alignment.  The key to doing this was to get the barrel stub turned down to the receiver hole diameter PLUS .5 thou interference fit.  Make sure you measure the stub thickness at many points and an inside micrometer is a good idea for the receiver.  I "reamed" out my receiver with a shotgun brush loaded with bore cleaning compound so all that "treatment" got removed and the inside polished.  Use lots of grease.

Never did use that hydraulic press.

[TJNewton]

Excellent write up.  I'm not likely to press a barrel into a receiver anytime soon, but if I ever do, I'm coming back to this thread.  Thank you.

[CitizenPete]

All my barrels head-space on threads and my Savage uses a NUT.  I get pretty close with those.

Barrel insertion into the receiver is, by definition, head space adjustment on a CZ.  You sink it deeper you get less head space.  I didn't press my barrels into the correct depth as when I started off I wanted to "tap" the barrel into a starting posit before I applied the hydraulic press.  I tapped it with a rubber dead-drop hammer and the barrel went in as if by magic.  Little by little, and relatively gently, the barrel approached contact with the Bolt with the with the Go Gauge installed.  Finally a sharp click from the barrel/receiver and precise head-space was achieved.  The No-Go Gauge left the carrier sitting 3/8 inch away from the sight block.  Perfect.  That was the only one of the three that went that smooth but the other two just sank the barrel a little to far.  Maybe to the No-Go depth.  A couple sharp raps on the carrier with a brass hammer brought all into precise alignment.  The key to doing this was to get the barrel stub turned down to the receiver hole diameter PLUS .5 thou interference fit.  Make sure you measure the stub thickness at many points and an inside micrometer is a good idea for the receiver.  I "reamed" out my receiver with a shotgun brush loaded with bore cleaning compound so all that "treatment" got removed and the inside polished.  Use lots of grease.

Never did use that hydraulic press.

Interesting.  I just saw a vid yesterday were the Smith said to use a small round file in the barrel pin hole to carefully remove the inside edge and any burrs on a new vz.58 receiver. Maybe your shotgun brush method took care of this even better.

If you had a bunch to do then you could machine a jig for the receiver for the barrel to stop on.  I really liked that CSA video that Czechpoint-USA made that briefly showed that type of jig.

Wish you would have added this post to the existing head-space thread, this is bleep good reference information John.  I will link to this thread from the sticky, otherwise it will be buried in history.  Thank you for posting this.