The Original CZ Forum
CZ PISTOL CLUBS => CZ SP-01 and variants => Topic started by: anonymouscuban on March 18, 2019, 01:43:40 PM
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Hey guys.
I just ordered the CGW Race Hammer for my SP-01 Manual Safety. I know I will have to do some minor fitting of the safety so it engages. It looks like I can do that one of two ways...
- Remove material from the safety
- Remove material from the sear cage
Does it matter which one I do? Seems like it shouldn't matter. I'm leaning towards fitting the safety since it's just easier to pull out and back in to test the adjustment. Also, if I take too much off, gives me an excuse to order the extended safety. ;D
What do the experts say?
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You can fit the safety pad on the safety lever or the upper leg of the *sear. As you noted, fitting the safety lever is easier do to the time it would take to repeatedly remove an reinstall the sear.
Generally i have learned to fit the cheaper part which would be the sear in this case. However as mentioned, do to the ease of accessing the safety lever it is the way to go.
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Thanks Tok. Think I will work on the safety.
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Why don?t you just order and install the adjustable sear and sear spacer so you don?t have to do any fitting?
That?s what I did on my Shadow 2 unless it doesn?t work on a SPO1.
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The adjustable sear would be cheaper than replacing the safety set or the sear cage. You could fit it yourself and justify using the saving towards the safety you are wanting though.
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I always fit the sear. The safety is easier, but you can always use the practice reassembling. 8)
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Hey A-Cuban, good seeing ya at this forum.
Anyways, it seems that you already ordered the hammer so the adjustable sear is out of luck.
You gots the plan, so just do a small bit at a time so you don't knacker the safety.
Should work out.
Hope you ordered the CGW starter punch. It helps alot.
Those hammer pins are not that bad to remove and replace...
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The adjustable sear would be cheaper than replacing the safety set or the sear cage. You could fit it yourself and justify using the saving towards the safety you are wanting though.
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Get the adjustable sear and use red loctite to set.
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Hey A-Cuban, good seeing ya at this forum.
Anyways, it seems that you already ordered the hammer so the adjustable sear is out of luck.
You gots the plan, so just do a small bit at a time so you don't knacker the safety.
Should work out.
Hope you ordered the CGW starter punch. It helps alot.
Those hammer pins are not that bad to remove and replace...
What's up! Yup. I got the starter punch a while back. Can't recall what for. All 3 of my CZ pistols have CGW bits in them. I've slowly added all the parts of the Pro Package to my SP-01. The race hammer is the last piece. Do it all over again I would have just ordered the package but no regrets. Doing it parts at a time really allowed me to get a feel of how my pistol performed with each upgrade.
Got the stainless guide rod, race hammer and hammer pins on this order. Gonna install it all Wednesday night then take it out on the range on Friday. I may still do the 10x bushing just to finish her off but haven't decided. We shall see. She's already a great gun. Really nice action as is and more accurate than I am. The race hammer is gonna clean up that last little bit in the action.
As far as the fitting goes, I know I could have bought the adjustable sear but I actually like tinkering with this stuff. Don't mind tear her apart and doing a little work. Seems straight forward enough to do.
I do appreciate all the help guys. I will post up how things go. Maybe ad some pics. I went with the stainless hammer to match the stainless trigger from the RRK. Gonna polish out the barrel as well. All that coupled with the stainless guide rod should give her a little bling.
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Just an aside on the CGW adjustable sear. We don't advertise this, but we have managed to design this part with a secondary angle on the sear. This has been standard on our sear for several years now.
This secondary angle (much like a professionally tuned 1911 sear) can make the break in SA really nice.
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Just an aside on the CGW adjustable sear. We don't advertise this, but we have managed to design this part with a secondary angle on the sear. This has been standard on our sear for several years now.
This secondary angle (much like a professionally tuned 1911 sear) can make the break in SA really nice.
Now you tell me. [emoji24][emoji24][emoji24]
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Just an aside on the CGW adjustable sear. We don't advertise this, but we have managed to design this part with a secondary angle on the sear. This has been standard on our sear for several years now.
This secondary angle (much like a professionally tuned 1911 sear) can make the break in SA really nice.
Now you tell me. [emoji24][emoji24][emoji24]
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The adjustable sear from CGW is the BEST thing to ever happen for CZ home smithing, I use it on every CZ I own. Floating trigger pin is a close second.
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Received the race hammer and SS guide rod yesterday. I installed them in the gun. Ended up doing the fitting on the sear. What a pain in the ass. Not so much the fitting but getting that bleep lifter spring back in. I don't know if everyone struggles as much as I do but there has to be a technique to getting that thing in easier. Lost one in the process. I learned before to always have a few on hand though.
All that said, late last night, I decided to order the adjustable sear and the sear spacer. Since this SP-01 is my USPSA pistol, I think I'm going to delete the firing ping block. See how that improves the action. I couldn't pay $8 shipping for a $4 spacer so I decided to buy the adjustable sear. Got my confirmation that it will ship out today. Hopefully it will arrive on Saturday and maybe I can take it out on Sunday for some shooting. Gonna shoot tomorrow with the new race hammer which by the way, is amazing. SA pull is now down to 2.5 lbs with a super clean, consistent break. The reset is improved as well.
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If you remove the FPB it won?t be production legal if that?s your division. It won?t really matter likely at local matches but just an FYI.
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Received the race hammer and SS guide rod yesterday. I installed them in the gun. Ended up doing the fitting on the sear. What a pain in the ass. Not so much the fitting but getting that bleep lifter spring back in. I don't know if everyone struggles as much as I do but there has to be a technique to getting that thing in easier. Lost one in the process. I learned before to always have a few on hand though. .
For lifter spring, trick is to use a very fine tweezer and reassemble everything inside a big zip lock bag. No lost springs..
For adjustable sear, I followed CGW's instruction to the letter and must use red loctite..
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If you remove the FPB it won?t be production legal if that?s your division. It won?t really matter likely at local matches but just an FYI.
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Ah. Didn't know that. Thanks for the heads up. I do shoot Production so FPB delete is not an option for me right now. I figured since some of the CA models come without a FPB it would be Production legal.
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Just an aside on the CGW adjustable sear. We don't advertise this, but we have managed to design this part with a secondary angle on the sear. This has been standard on our sear for several years now.
This secondary angle (much like a professionally tuned 1911 sear) can make the break in SA really nice.
Is there an advantage to using the adjustable sear without using a race hammer?
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Nice SA trigger weight !
Please try to post a pic of your completed piece !
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If I ever replace a hammer in another CZ I will buy the CGW adjustable sear. I fitted a safety to the sear on my first project/build and will never go through that again. Going slow is the way to go to insure you don't remove too much metal but 23 or 24 times of taking the safety out to remove a little bit of metal is way too much work. The adjustable sear eliminates that aggravation.
We have one CZ75SA in 9MM. Prior to the installation of the CGW race hammer and adjustable sear it was difficult to "feel" that stopping point where the firing pin block was out of the way just prior to the sear movement releasing the hammer. I'm not a competition shooter but I'm a "nice trigger guy." A gun with a bad trigger isn't fun to shoot. But that factory CZ trigger feel in the new CZ75SA wasn't good either. I want to feel that stopping point in trigger rearward movement just before the next little rearward movement fires the pistol. I can feel it on my P09, my P07, my CZ75 Compact, etc. They all have pretty nice triggers and firing pin blocks and I can feel that stop.
On the CZ75SA, once we put the CGW race hammer and adjustable sear in we also removed the firing pin block. But after that I could feel that stopping point. I can't say what removal of the block did for reducing trigger pull weight. I can say that the CGW parts made the trigger feel better/more positive for me.
I converted one of my Compacts to SAO using the CGW race hammer, adjustable sear and a straight trigger from CZ USA and it's pretty darned nice.
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So here a quick video if the trigger action after the latest CGW components. At this point, my gun has all the bits of the Pro Kit. I added them over time instead of all at once. The only thing left to do at this point is the 10x bushing. This baby is perfect now.
Sorry for the green gloves. Just got done cleaning her up.
https://youtu.be/WYVadtsIKZQ
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