The Original CZ Forum
CZ PISTOL CLUBS => Compact CZ 75s => Topic started by: plumber4444 on May 09, 2019, 11:52:28 PM
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Like everyone else my one and only complaint is that recurved trigger! Ridiculous and I have no idea what they were thinking but maybe they have small fingers over there in the Czech Republic...
Always been one to try to think out of the box and if the trigger was easy to swap I would?ve done it a LONG time ago with the 85C trigger. But research and rumor has substantiated the fact that it?s not the typical do it yourself job and I have no desire to spend all night trying to figure out how to put the gun back together with the DeCocker!
And even though I would love to send the gun off to CGW to get the pro package work done, I am NOT enthusiastic about a possible 2-3 month wait. I don?t like having my gun disappear that long for ANY reason!!!
So I took some black shrink wrap tubing for wires, cut off a little tiny piece, put the heat gun to it and the difference was night and day. After several hundred rounds my finger did not hurt or get a blister or any of the other horrible things.
Is it perfect? No. Is it a MAJOR improvement? Absolutely. Simply amazing what a little tiny piece of rubber shrink wrap tubing will do to make the experience so much more enjoyable :)
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https://imgur.com/gallery/e0yfqXn
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A trigger finger bumper, nice. I use shrink tube for a number of things, helpful stuff.
Glad that you found a solution. Thank you for sharing it.
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Trigger Finger bumper! I like that terminology :) I can see the TV news commercial now!!! ?As seen on TV, the ORIGINAL CZ P01 Trigger Finger Bumper. Order in the next 10 minutes and pay only $9.99 (plus $19.99 S&H)
I wasn?t quite sure it was going to work myself until I brought it out to the range to verify. I was quite shocked. Ultimately I would like to find a very small piece of sponge rubber or something even softer with a very small diameter that could just be slid over the trigger but couldn?t come up with anything. Plus of course a major concern that whatever I put on there would slide off during shooting and I know the adhesive shrink wrap is not going to budge. I?m probably going to put another piece over that and possibly even do almost the entire trigger to see if it helps even more.
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Well that's a heck of an idea. As long as it does not affect the pistols function it looks like a reasonable solution. BTW not a fan of the curved triggers either.
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That sounds like a good idea, but too late I just finished swapping out mine for a 85 old model trigger.
It is tough especially when sear cage comes apart, CGW slave pin didn?t capture it all. Guess good learning experience plus polishing up innards might be helpful will see haven?t shot it yet will this weekend. You are right it can be a pain. Shrink sleeving be a lot easier for sure.
Thanks
Ohmslaw
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That sounds like a good idea, but too late I just finished swapping out mine for a 85 old model trigger.
It is tough especially when sear cage comes apart, CGW slave pin didn?t capture it all. Guess good learning experience plus polishing up innards might be helpful will see haven?t shot it yet will this weekend. You are right it can be a pain. Shrink sleeving be a lot easier for sure.
Thanks
Ohmslaw
The trigger can be changed with out taking the sear cage out or apart. I have done many of them and have never touched anything but the trigger, 2 pins, trigger bar and spring/
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Some say yes some say no Viking499. Make a video if you got it down to a system, I would watch it!
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Thanks for sharing. Note to self: Pick up some shrink wrap tubing from Home Depot!
I have some laying around, but they are way to small.
My friend used one to fix a broken tether to a gas tank cap. Mercedes dealer will probably charge $20 for a 6" rubber tether :D
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Thanks for sharing. Note to self: Pick up some shrink wrap tubing from Home Depot!
I have some laying around, but they are way to small.
My friend used one to fix a broken tether to a gas tank cap. Mercedes dealer will probably charge $20 for a 6" rubber tether :D
Should have mentioned I used 3:1 adhesive. I?m sure Home Depot carries it but I got it on Amazon like everything else in my life! LOL
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Some say yes some say no Viking499. Make a video if you got it down to a system, I would watch it!
Not any good at making videos. But as I said, the trigger can be swapped without taking the cage apart.
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Some say yes some say no Viking499. Make a video if you got it down to a system, I would watch it!
Not any good at making videos. But as I said, the trigger can be swapped without taking the cage apart.
I don?t think the issue is whether or not it can, the issue is the skill level of the people involved. Some people do basic gun cleaning and leave it at that. Then there is the next level which is probably guys like me that do upgrades and don?t mind getting a little bit more in depth. I?ve changed a dozen triggers on many of my AR15?s.
And then there are the DIY gunsmiths that are not afraid to rip the entire thing apart and I am not quite so bold...on the flipside I do not consider swapping a trigger as anything other than a basic upgrade:
However, I have read an abundance of articles with people complaining what a PIA it was and how some had to wind up taking it to a gunsmith, or stayed up all night and spent many hours working on it. Then I read stuff like yours, that say it was not a big deal after all, simple job!
From my perspective I just am not sure anymore and it?s just not worth the risk to me.
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Fair enough, each to there own.
If I remember without looking at it........
1. Drive out trigger pin
2. Take trigger spring loose (or do that before #1. Would have to be looking at it to remember)
3. Push trigger and trigger bar up into frame.
4. Push top trigger small pin over and take a pair of needle nose to remove pin the rest of the way.
5. Old trigger out, new trigger in.
6. Needle nose and small pin back in.
7. Install CGW trigger pin (well worth the price)
8. Make sure trigger sprimg is in its correct location.
That's basically all there is to it. As I said, there might be a few things in the wrong order........my recliner is not very conducive to deep thinking and remembering this time of the evening. ;)
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Fair enough, each to there own.
If I remember without looking at it........
1. Drive out trigger pin
2. Take trigger spring loose (or do that before #1. Would have to be looking at it to remember)
3. Push trigger and trigger bar up into frame.
4. Push top trigger small pin over and take a pair of needle nose to remove pin the rest of the way.
5. Old trigger out, new trigger in.
6. Needle nose and small pin back in.
7. Install CGW trigger pin (well worth the price)
8. Make sure trigger sprimg is in its correct location.
That's basically all there is to it. As I said, there might be a few things in the wrong order........my recliner is not very conducive to deep thinking and remembering this time of the evening. ;)
You did it on a decocker and not a safety model correct?
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That shrink wrap/tube on the trigger is a good idea. Quick, easy and easily removeable if you decide to go back to stock. Or easy to replace if it gets damaged.
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Fair enough, each to there own.
If I remember without looking at it........
1. Drive out trigger pin
2. Take trigger spring loose (or do that before #1. Would have to be looking at it to remember)
3. Push trigger and trigger bar up into frame.
4. Push top trigger small pin over and take a pair of needle nose to remove pin the rest of the way.
5. Old trigger out, new trigger in.
6. Needle nose and small pin back in.
7. Install CGW trigger pin (well worth the price)
8. Make sure trigger sprimg is in its correct location.
That's basically all there is to it. As I said, there might be a few things in the wrong order........my recliner is not very conducive to deep thinking and remembering this time of the evening. ;)
You did it on a decocker and not a safety model correct?
Yep. Same process for either one.
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How do you get trigger from under disconnect and out ? I looked it over but have try again if need to another one, may change hammer later. It will need full dissembling again. Good experience I know how to do it. I did polish things when it was apart so guess it was worth it. I shot it Saturday it?s great no trigger slap with spring change also lighter trigger pull. Happy with results.
Thanks
Ohmslaw
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That shrink wrap/tube on the trigger is a good idea. Quick, easy and easily removeable if you decide to go back to stock. Or easy to replace if it gets damaged.
Thank you sir! Funny enough I noticed it came off even though I used the adhesive shrink and never even noticed! But this time I went 2 layers and let it hang over the tip just a tad and it was much improved and I like it better than the single piece FYI to anyone trying to do it.
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Fair enough, each to there own.
If I remember without looking at it........
1. Drive out trigger pin
2. Take trigger spring loose (or do that before #1. Would have to be looking at it to remember)
3. Push trigger and trigger bar up into frame.
4. Push top trigger small pin over and take a pair of needle nose to remove pin the rest of the way.
5. Old trigger out, new trigger in.
6. Needle nose and small pin back in.
7. Install CGW trigger pin (well worth the price)
8. Make sure trigger sprimg is in its correct location.
That's basically all there is to it. As I said, there might be a few things in the wrong order........my recliner is not very conducive to deep thinking and remembering this time of the evening. ;)
You did it on a decocker and not a safety model correct?
Yep. Same process for either one.
I am waiting to hear your reply to that gentleman?s question as I?m very curious as to whether or not I want to attempt this!!!! I?m afraid to say that you may have to get out of your comfortable recliner :)
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OOPS! Won?t fire now as it?s a bit too thick and stops trigger at the very far back position! Never realized what a small tolerance (clearance) it has in the farthest back position right before it fires but I don?t believe you could slide a razor blade in there lol.
Tip: Once it shrinks wait a few seconds so you don?t burn yourself and before it cools down you can grab it with your fingers and slide it to any position you want and it?s a lot easier doing it that way while it?s still warm. I left two layers but was unable to let it hang over a tad like I wanted but 2 layers still improved the bite.
Update: I cannot in good conscience recommend two layers and I went back to one. I spent an hour trying every different size and at best it?s a perfect fit in the far back position and if anything at all even a grain of sand got wedged in there it would prevent it from firing. I?m afraid one strip is as good as it gets but still does an excellent job!
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https://imgur.com/gallery/SXHYS2j
New longer piece covers entire trigger
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Fair enough, each to there own.
If I remember without looking at it........
1. Drive out trigger pin
2. Take trigger spring loose (or do that before #1. Would have to be looking at it to remember)
3. Push trigger and trigger bar up into frame.
4. Push top trigger small pin over and take a pair of needle nose to remove pin the rest of the way.
5. Old trigger out, new trigger in.
6. Needle nose and small pin back in.
7. Install CGW trigger pin (well worth the price)
8. Make sure trigger sprimg is in its correct location.
That's basically all there is to it. As I said, there might be a few things in the wrong order........my recliner is not very conducive to deep thinking and remembering this time of the evening. ;)
You did it on a decocker and not a safety model correct?
I’ve personally removed and swapped out the curved triggers on a few of them without removing the sear cages.
Some I didn’t even take the trigger bar out of the gun.
Guns were both decocker and safety models.
Rami, SP-01, P-01, 75B SA
Have the correct punch for the trigger pin, a pair of tweezers, some light grease to hold the small silver trigger bar pin in place while you push the trigger back down into the frame so you can then install the trigger pin.
It’s a pretty quick and easy job, really just a matter of holding the gun to the right, left, straight up at the correct times during the process.
The CGW old style 85 trigger is the way to go in my opinion and available in black now as well which it wasn’t when I was doing mine.
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85 combat all day long. Pay a smith if you have to. I did.
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