The Original CZ Forum
CZ PISTOL CLUBS => CZ82 & CZ83 CLUB => Topic started by: 1984Landcruiser on July 17, 2019, 12:47:58 AM
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This is one of the CZ-82 specials offered by J&G Sales with the scuffed paint and chipped grips. Test fired it to make sure it worked and then did a partial disassembly and stripped the paint. Polished the metal with 400 grit sandpaper followed by 600 grit. Degreased with isopropyl alcohol and rubbed dry. Then used Birchwood Casey Super Blue in 4 coats (each coat being washed in cold, soapy tap water and rinsed) followed by cleaning with the alcohol and light buffing with 0000 steel wool until the finish looked even. I then placed the cold blued parts in a ziplock bag and doused then with Rem Oil. I left the bag out in the hot sun for two days to let the oil bake in. Reassembled it and wiped off the excess Rem Oil. After admiring it for awhile, I gave it a light coat of CLP and put it away. It was an enjoyable weekend project, and now we’ll see how the cold blue holds up to occasional trips to the range. I’m quite pleased with the final results.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190717/31ce668722899f3093c52da952a18edc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190717/cb31d699a80ee342e7c853910f41261e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190717/e2f80cd58b4b08e4e116e140995a52d3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190717/c74cf5c82e962f5b6a5868e52ab19ea9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190717/63470793cd02eada8dc833d65d332a69.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190717/2f8a61c2901bf0dca690ad4e234834b7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190717/39c696b3a1fb53b621cabac423787d60.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190717/7a17a9df0d56b97e40d9a8d744a74c58.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190717/9a0c802a16425dd22b1e6f346d8984fc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190717/0809bfb5e6920f2f8415cbf46d8eff5b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190717/4842d18c6c12288a04687bcefd67e4e2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190717/5cda564bb4247a8197703807d75feb18.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190717/3052a26e2390eb2eaf44e1ec7b3fcbaf.jpg)
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Looks great! Today, I picked up a 1988 issue that also needs refinishing. I'll have to think about how you did it.
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Nice work! Don't worry about the cold blue - it should hold up well.
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WOW that's amazing. Not sure I ever saw it done with just a field strip and grips removed, but it looks great.
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That is awesome job.
I got a 83 that I had cerakoted (cost me more than the gun LOL) but it looks brand new.
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Beautiful! May I ask how you stripped it?
I tried everything on mine before giving up and spraying it with rattle can paint, on the slide only.
It looks good but I would like to do it right.
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Beautiful! May I ask how you stripped it?
Sorry for the delayed response, as I haven’t logged in here in awhile.
I bought the stripper at my local Ace Hardware. It came in a 1 quart metal can and was made by Klean Strip. There are several different varieties, but I went with the full strength version which said it worked on metal. I applied it with strips of soft cotton cloth from an old T-shirt and used some fine bronze wool to scrub the paint/coating. The stripper took it right off.
The serrations on the side of the slide took some work with a pointed metal piece to work in the stripper and get the coating out.
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I'm thinking about glass bead on one of my 82's. How tough is the paint? Does anyone think glass bead would remove it easy enough? Nice job on yours, it looks great.
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Bead blasting will really strip paint quickly. But you need to be very careful around close point work like slide serrations and the serrations along the top. The paint will hold better in the grooves and you can easily damage the edgework of the cuts by going after it.
A commonly applied stripper to thoroughly deal with polycoat and epoxy finishes is a product called Aircraft Stripper. I think Kleen Strip is one mfg of this but it is some really nasty stuff that thoroughly eats the finish and is the one advised on this forum for complete stripping. Don’t use it on aluminum as there is a hydroxide component that will cause damage to Al. Use eye and skin protection. And the one that seems similar isn’t the right stuff. Aircraft Stripper.
After stripping, if you want to do some bead blasting to provide a nice, matte finish, go for it. The exposure will be quick and won’t be sufficient to erode sharp peaks. I’ve done this to contoured surfaces for refinishing and it really looks nice (after any rust removal with sandpaper, of course). After this I resand the flat areas to give a nice two-tone appearance. One of these days I’m gonna just blast the whole thing before rebluing to give kind of a pseudo park/gray.
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That's a really clean look. Very nice. Got a CZ82 with a beat-up slide, so I may have to try this myself. I have some Birchwood Casey Super Blue looking for something to do.
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Looks good for a weekend project at minimal cost. Looks like a pretty nice, even finish. That's what I think about with cold bluing from a bottle, that the finish will be uneven and blotchy. Yours turned out nice.
How does it shoot?
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I just picked up a new set pf springs for mine (as mentioned in the other thread). I bought the springs so they could be installed by Brian Ahearn, who is going to cerakote it when I can get it to him. It has quickly become one of my favorites, and I don't go to the range without it.
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Huge improvement! Really nice finish.
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Nicely done!
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How do you say method would work on a CZ 52, which has a rather rough Parkerized finish? I think it will probably need much more sanding to smooth it. What say you?
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The only way I've removed Parkerizing is by bead or sand blast, leaves a nice even finish. That is how most parked guns start. Have fun, be safe.
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Very, VERY nicely done - that CZ82 looks great!
Now ... take some 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, dip it in water, and go over those grips. After most of the scratches are wet sanded away, dry them off and spend some time with an automotive cleaner / polish and a cotton cloth. You will be pleasantly surprised how good you can get the black plastic grips to look with some more time and effort spent on the pistol. They will really complement the refinish job you did on the metal. :)
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Thanks! I’ll try that on the grips!
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I am planning this same project but I assumed I had to do a total strip of the gun. If I can do this without full disassembly, it will be MUCH easier! I am so glad I saw your post!
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CConrad1234 - Glad this was a help to you. Looking forward to seeing how yours turns out. Let me know if you have any questions!
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CConrad1234 - Glad this was a help to you. Looking forward to seeing how yours turns out. Let me know if you have any questions!
Your Blueing looks darker and more even than mine turned out. I did about 4 cycles and was getting frustrated, but then after I stopped and oiled it, it looked much better, but still not as even and dark as yours. Any hints/tips for a better blueing?
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I think the amount of time spent sanding and polishing the metal before bluing helps to make a difference. And the buffing with OOOO steel wool between coats helps. Finally, put on as many coats of super blue as you can. I found that it darkened with each successive coat.
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It looks great, thanks for sharing
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here is a post that I did for the saior Curt website. It shows how I went about refinishing (blued) my cz 82s. The site also has a bunch of other good info on CZ82s
https://sailorcurt.com/category/cz-82-vz-82/
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Turned out very nice!!
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I tried to get in in AIM’s d grade or whatever guns or maybe j&g’s, something like $169 but guns were gone by the time I got to the email.
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The days of the $169 CZs are long gone, I'm afraid.