The Original CZ Forum
GENERAL => CZ Gunsmithing => Topic started by: Rmach on August 28, 2019, 06:17:58 PM
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I received two kits yesterday and installed one of them in my plain Jane CZ 75b. Their installation video came in handy a few times since this was the first time I ever installed a trigger kit in a handgun. Everything went well with the installation, but it did take me much longer than in the video, novice vs pro...lol.
After the entire installation, I checked for function and was totally impressed with the results. I don't have a professional trigger pull gauge, but my results mimic the results in the video, maybe a tad higher which is fine with me. I have two Shadow 2's and a Shadow Orange, and this new trigger compares very favorably with them. This trigger kit transforms a $550 handgun into a $1000+ handgun IMO. Maybe I'm exaggerating a bit, but you get the picture.
The final test was today at the range. A forum member suggested firing hard primer ammo to see if I would have reliable ignition every time. I ran 100rds of S&B and 100rds of Magtech. Both brands fired perfectly and the CZ 75b ran just like my Shadow 2's and Shadow Orange, no problems.
Here's a few pics of the primer strikes from each box of ammo and the target I was firing at from 10yds.
I'm an old guy and not a competition shooter, but I'm more than pleased with this MCARBO trigger kit.
(https://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/attachments/other-handguns/445811d1567028598-kahr-cm9-cz75b-performance-range-reports-001.jpg)
(https://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/attachments/other-handguns/445813d1567028618-kahr-cm9-cz75b-performance-range-reports-003.jpg)
(https://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/attachments/other-handguns/445809d1567028587-kahr-cm9-cz75b-performance-range-reports-005.jpg)
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Thank you for the update! I will have to order this kit and give it a try. I have used Mcarbo springs and parts in other rifles and they have been top notch in sales and service. I am glad to have another quality offering for the CZ pistol line!
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Thanks for the update and good job!
That's what I wanted to know. If they work with hard primers (with a so low trigger pull), it's definitely worth trying it
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That is awesome and it is a good report.
I am always open to and excited to see new companies and products that work.
I have watched the video they have and am pretty sure it is within my capabilities to do that.
I will be getting a kit and giving it a try myself.
Thank you for your report.
Good to see you were open minded enough to give it an honest try.
RCG
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Any idea about the trigger pull in SA and DA? Since I pay about twice the price just for 1 pack I better buy 3 for all my CZ's but I'd like to do so if it improves the current pull.
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Any idea about the trigger pull in SA and DA? Since I pay about twice the price just for 1 pack I better buy 3 for all my CZ's but I'd like to do so if it improves the current pull.
I have a digital scale for weighing luggage, and It's telling me the SA is at ~2.70lb and the DA ~7lb. I used a coat hanger for the trigger hook that I attached to the scale's hook. Before I put the kit in, I compared it to my factory stock polished stainless CZ 75b, and both handguns felt the same to me in SA and DA. After the kit was in installed in my black CZ 75b, you can feel a big difference between the pull in SA and DA when compared to the stainless handgun, much lighter than the factory trigger. Oh, I forgot to add that I just checked the SA pull in the stainless CZ75b, and it was ~4.7lb. I couldn't get a good reading in DA because the trigger hook was popping off due to the heavier pulling.
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necessity is the mother of invention....
nicely played - Good info
RCG
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I added a pic of the removed factory components. The firing pin roll pin wasn't worn too bad considering I have at least 1500+ rounds through it.
(https://www.taurusarmed.net/forums/attachments/other-handguns/445857d1567098082-kahr-cm9-cz75b-performance-range-reports-001.jpg)
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I got a super deal on five 10rd Mecgar mags that were delivered today. That gave me a good excuse to go back to the range today to make sure the new mags functioned properly. Same CZ75b with the MCARBO kit, and I ran another 100rds of S&B and 100 Magtech, same as yesterday. The S&B today was 124gr and yesterday was 115gr, so it was different batches of S&B. Anyway, same results as yesterday with the exception of one failure to extract (S&B). All the primer hits looked great. I didn't take any pics since the results are the same. Next, I'll install the other MCARBO kit in my polished CZ75b and repeat the same exercise. That will be next week.
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Based on this thread and the accompanying review I looked up these kits and ordered 2 standard 75 kits and 2 P07/P09 kits. Gotta say, not at all impressed. I have cajun spring kits in a pcr and P01, and full pro kits in a P01 and another P07, so far the only observation I have is my trigger reset is hit or miss. Probably pull the entire kit out and chuck it. IMHO save your money and time and but the CGW parts.
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Based on this thread and the accompanying review I looked up these kits and ordered 2 standard 75 kits and 2 P07/P09 kits. Gotta say, not at all impressed. I have cajun spring kits in a pcr and P01, and full pro kits in a P01 and another P07, so far the only observation I have is my trigger reset is hit or miss. Probably pull the entire kit out and chuck it. IMHO save your money and time and but the CGW parts.
Frankly, I don't buy your story, not at all. There's a huge improvement on pull weight from the stock factory springs. There are other reviews that agree with this, and more reviews will come out soon totally discrediting your supposed results. I have no idea what's on you agenda with your post. A reduced spring weight is a reduced spring weight, so your claiming A CGW spring is somehow more efficient or something, doesn't make any sense. MCARBO's combination of the six components is what sets this kit apart from the others, and at $20, it's a must have unless you want the full makeover for an additional $200+.
Lol, I have no agenda, just sharing my experience, that doesn’t seem to mesh with yours, and you call me a “liar with an agenda” real classy bud. The springs that come with a Cajun kit are color coded so that I know which one is lighter and which one isn’t, the springs from the mcarbo kit are not coded or marked in any way although there is a difference in the coil thickness I don’t know what the difference is between the stock spring and the spring in the kit. Frankly once again I stated that this is “MY HUMBLE OPINION” and has nothing to Dow right your experience, or some “agenda” for all I know you work for MCARBO, and all the “other reviews that are coming out soon to disprove my experience” could be you under several ghost accounts if we are going to make ridiculous accusations. I do not have a trigger pull gauge, nor did I ever claim to, so my opinions are completely subjective and based on how the trigger feels to me. The kit I used was for the P07/P09 series as well, so unless you used the same kit I did, you are the one who is making baseless assumptions with no actual experience to back up your statement. However I can and did put my P07 with the MCARBO spring kit next to my friends P07 with a Cajun defensive spring kit, 7 other shooters at the range agreed with my assessment that the Cajun sprung gun felt like a better trigger, once again, in case any other MCARBO employees who happen to be forum members get offended, this is my OPINION and YMMMV. I also compared the MCARBO kit in my P09 vs his P09 with the full $200 kit and it was a night and day difference. So to everyone but the OP caveat emptor, to the OP glad you are enjoying yours, if you ever want to shoot a CZ with a trigger that will blow away one of these kits, come on down to N.C. and you are more than welcome to shoot some of mine. [emoji41][emoji106]
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Based on this thread and the accompanying review I looked up these kits and ordered 2 standard 75 kits and 2 P07/P09 kits. Gotta say, not at all impressed. I have cajun spring kits in a pcr and P01, and full pro kits in a P01 and another P07, so far the only observation I have is my trigger reset is hit or miss. Probably pull the entire kit out and chuck it. IMHO save your money and time and but the CGW parts.
Frankly, I don't buy your story, not at all. There's a huge improvement on pull weight from the stock factory springs. There are other reviews that agree with this, and more reviews will come out soon totally discrediting your supposed results. I have no idea what's on you agenda with your post. A reduced spring weight is a reduced spring weight, so your claiming A CGW spring is somehow more efficient or something, doesn't make any sense. MCARBO's combination of the six components is what sets this kit apart from the others, and at $20, it's a must have unless you want the full makeover for an additional $200+.
Lol, I have no agenda, just sharing my experience, that doesn’t seem to mesh with yours, and you call me a “liar with an agenda” real classy bud. The springs that come with a Cajun kit are color coded so that I know which one is lighter and which one isn’t, the springs from the mcarbo kit are not coded or marked in any way although there is a difference in the coil thickness I don’t know what the difference is between the stock spring and the spring in the kit. Frankly once again I stated that this is “MY HUMBLE OPINION” and has nothing to Dow right your experience, or some “agenda” for all I know you work for MCARBO, and all the “other reviews that are coming out soon to disprove my experience” could be you under several ghost accounts if we are going to make ridiculous accusations. I do not have a trigger pull gauge, nor did I ever claim to, so my opinions are completely subjective and based on how the trigger feels to me. The kit I used was for the P07/P09 series as well, so unless you used the same kit I did, you are the one who is making baseless assumptions with no actual experience to back up your statement. However I can and did put my P07 with the MCARBO spring kit next to my friends P07 with a Cajun defensive spring kit, 7 other shooters at the range agreed with my assessment that the Cajun sprung gun felt like a better trigger, once again, in case any other MCARBO employees who happen to be forum members get offended, this is my OPINION and YMMMV. I also compared the MCARBO kit in my P09 vs his P09 with the full $200 kit and it was a night and day difference. So to everyone but the OP caveat emptor, to the OP glad you are enjoying yours, if you ever want to shoot a CZ with a trigger that will blow away one of these kits, come on down to N.C. and you are more than welcome to shoot some of mine. [emoji41][emoji106]
I'll stick by what i posted. There will be many more reviews coming out in the next few months that will give this kit a 5 star rating and similar results to mine. But wait, they will all be "ghost accounts".
Also, I don't have a P09 or P07, so I have no comments on that kit, only the CZ75b. Your first post implied that you are/did install a kit in your CZ75b. This thread is about the MCARBO CZ75b trigger spring kit, not the P07 or P09 kit. I guess you felt it necessary to totally contadict my review even though you haven't installed the kit in your CZ75b. It sure looks that way, classy.
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Installation of the second CZ75b MCARBO kit will be delayed. I wanted to install it this afternoon, but closer inspection of my polished stainless CZ75b revealed that the stock trigger pin has large flares on both ends and should not be reused IMO. A new CGW floating pin is on order.
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Installation of the second CZ75b MCARBO kit will be delayed. I wanted to install it this afternoon, but closer inspection of my polished stainless CZ75b revealed that the stock trigger pin has large flares on both ends and should not be reused IMO. A new CGW floating pin is on order.
That why I wouldn’t even try these new springs, because I would always be adding CGW trigger pin anyways, and then pay shipping on both
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Installation of the second CZ75b MCARBO kit will be delayed. I wanted to install it this afternoon, but closer inspection of my polished stainless CZ75b revealed that the stock trigger pin has large flares on both ends and should not be reused IMO. A new CGW floating pin is on order.
Didn't your 75B have a flared trigger pin as well?
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Installation of the second CZ75b MCARBO kit will be delayed. I wanted to install it this afternoon, but closer inspection of my polished stainless CZ75b revealed that the stock trigger pin has large flares on both ends and should not be reused IMO. A new CGW floating pin is on order.
Didn't your 75B have a flared trigger pin as well?
Yes it did, but only on one end, so reusing it was ok.
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Installation of the second CZ75b MCARBO kit will be delayed. I wanted to install it this afternoon, but closer inspection of my polished stainless CZ75b revealed that the stock trigger pin has large flares on both ends and should not be reused IMO. A new CGW floating pin is on order.
Didn't your 75B have a flared trigger pin as well?
Yes it did, but only on one end, so reusing it was ok.
Did you buy it new?
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The OP obviously likes the springs over stock, but seems like the confusion comes in when the MCARBO springs are compared to CGW springs by another poster. He is saying he wasn't impressed compared to CGW, not over stock.
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Installation of the second CZ75b MCARBO kit will be delayed. I wanted to install it this afternoon, but closer inspection of my polished stainless CZ75b revealed that the stock trigger pin has large flares on both ends and should not be reused IMO. A new CGW floating pin is on order.
Didn't your 75B have a flared trigger pin as well?
Yes it did, but only on one end, so reusing it was ok.
Did you buy it new?
Yes, brand new, it's a 2018 model. Someone at the factory decided to flare each end of the trigger pin for some reason. Maybe it was walking out during the test fire, who knows. I hope it comes out fairly easy. I'll use a 1/16 roll pin punch on it to get it started out.
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I actually meant the first 75b. If it was used and the pin had been previously removed, that could explain why only one end was flared. Not to say that they never come that way from the factory, they certainly do on occasion. I saw in another reply that you bought it new, thanks.
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I actually meant the first 75b. If it was used and the pin had been previously removed, that could explain why only one end was flared. Not to say that they never come that way from the factory, they certainly do on occasion. I saw in another reply that you bought it new, thanks.
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Both were new, the black CZ75b is a 2016 model.
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I actually meant the first 75b. If it was used and the pin had been previously removed, that could explain why only one end was flared. Not to say that they never come that way from the factory, they certainly do on occasion. I saw in another reply that you bought it new, thanks.
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Both were new, the black CZ75b is a 2016 model.
All CZ's that I know of have both ends flared. The trigger pins are not meant to be re-used unless you can figure out how to re-flare them at home.
They do this to prevent the trigger pins from walking out the side of the frame.
So you're likely to need a CGW trigger pin.
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I actually meant the first 75b. If it was used and the pin had been previously removed, that could explain why only one end was flared. Not to say that they never come that way from the factory, they certainly do on occasion. I saw in another reply that you bought it new, thanks.
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Both were new, the black CZ75b is a 2016 model.
All CZ's that I know of have both ends flared. The trigger pins are not meant to be re-used unless you can figure out how to re-flare them at home.
They do this to prevent the trigger pins from walking out the side of the frame.
So you're likely to need a CGW trigger pin.
Thanks, I was just starting to think that about both ends being flared, but I wasn't sure. My other one sure seemed like it was just one end by looking at the ends. That factory pin is holding through 400rds so far, no movement yet. I didn't flare the leading end after reinstalling it. The videos I saw on Youtube didn't either, so we will see how that one holds up.
Anyway, this stainless 75b has large flares on both ends. I already ordered a CGW floating pin that should get here by Friday. I just don't want to take it apart before I have that new pin.
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I usually use a starter punch to get the trigger pin started. Be careful with a std punch as it may get stuck.
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I usually use a starter punch to get the trigger pin started. Be careful with a std punch as it may get stuck.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Thanks, I'll do that first to get it in past that large flare.
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bought 2 MACRBO kits one for my Cz PCR Compact and one for my Cz Compact. Installed both kits did not install the sear spring in the PCR being it was a decoker polished all the trigger parts in the PCR . Did not polish any parts in the manual safety steel frame Cz Compact. Added the CGW floating trigger pin in both bought 1 roll pin for the firing pin retaining pin . Ck with digital trigger gauge PCR DA 7 pounds and 3 oz single action 3 pounds . Cz Compact manual safety steel frame DA 7 pounds single action 3 pounds . What a big difference from stock well worth what I spent I for one are very happy with it triggers are smooth now the PCR is even smoother guess because I polished all the internals .went to the range this week shot 400 rounds through the PCR NOT one hiccup at all shot 350 rounds through the steel manual safety NOT one hiccup what so ever , so for me I am a very happy with my purchase.
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(https://czfirearms.us/blob:https://czfirearms.us/abb477a8-25f6-4a57-846e-4d9ae688d193)
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Great to hear that. My floating trigger pin will be here Saturday, so I can then install my 2nd MCARBO kit in my other CZ75b.
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I put the MCarbo kit (only trigger return spring and mainspring) in a brand new Phantom. Before the install I had a CGW reduced power trigger return spring and CGW blue 13# mainspring.
With a CZ competition hammer, 2.5mm canik trigger pin, and CZ UB Shadow 0.0 disconnecter, and after rounding and polishing the hammer strut, the DA weight increased with the MCarbo springs...
Read more here: https://www.ar15.com/forums/handguns/-/37-190591/?
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I put the MCarbo kit (only trigger return spring and mainspring) in a brand new Phantom. Before the install I had a CGW reduced power trigger return spring and CGW blue 13# mainspring.
With a CZ competition hammer, 2.5mm canik trigger pin, and CZ UB Shadow 0.0 disconnecter, and after rounding and polishing the hammer strut, the DA weight increased with the MCarbo springs...
Read more here: https://www.ar15.com/forums/handguns/-/37-190591/?
I'm curious, why would you install two of the MCARBO springs if you already had lighter CGW springs installed?
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I'm a curious person too... I wanted to see how they compared.
I put the MCarbo kit (only trigger return spring and mainspring) in a brand new Phantom. Before the install I had a CGW reduced power trigger return spring and CGW blue 13# mainspring.
With a CZ competition hammer, 2.5mm canik trigger pin, and CZ UB Shadow 0.0 disconnecter, and after rounding and polishing the hammer strut, the DA weight increased with the MCarbo springs...
Read more here: https://www.ar15.com/forums/handguns/-/37-190591/?
I'm curious, why would you install two of the MCARBO springs if you already had lighter CGW springs installed?
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I'm a curious person too... I wanted to see how they compared.
I put the MCarbo kit (only trigger return spring and mainspring) in a brand new Phantom. Before the install I had a CGW reduced power trigger return spring and CGW blue 13# mainspring.
With a CZ competition hammer, 2.5mm canik trigger pin, and CZ UB Shadow 0.0 disconnecter, and after rounding and polishing the hammer strut, the DA weight increased with the MCarbo springs...
Read more here: https://www.ar15.com/forums/handguns/-/37-190591/?
I'm curious, why would you install two of the MCARBO springs if you already had lighter CGW springs installed?
Did the Shadow disco cause reset issues or did you delete the fpb?
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Did the Shadow disco cause reset issues or did you delete the fpb?
The FPB is still in the gun.
The SA reset feels like a micron of forward movement after trigger break. I need to remove a bit more material on the inside of the "hook" of the disco. It's not safe for my needs.
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Ok, the second CZ75b MCARBO kit is installed in my polished stainless CZ75b. This was an easier install once you have some practice. The large flared trigger pin came out easily, and it looked like I could reuse it, but I installed the CGW floating pin.
The end results are very impressive, just as my other 75b was. My digital luggage scale attached to a coat hanger says SA is at ~3lbs and DA is at ~7.7lbs. No polishing or cleaning done, just remove and replace. This trigger on the stainless gun has very little creep compared to my other 75b. So this trigger has a little more pull weight in SA and DA than the other one, but due to less creep than the other one, feels better to me. Both triggers are big improvement over stock.
I'll run 200rds through it Monday, and then go back Tuesday or wednesday and run another 200rds.
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This was the first range visit with the 2nd MCARBO kit installed in my polished stainless CZ75b. Ran 100rds of S&B and 100 of Blazer Brass, all 115gr. Everything fired without a problem. The range had a poor selection of paper targets today. Picture is the primer strikes on the two boxes of S&B.
(https://i.imgur.com/9jroEMJ.jpg)
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Use this 20% OFF coupon code at checkout: 911 Never Forget
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Use this 20% OFF coupon code at checkout: 911 Never Forget
Shop M*CARBO Gun Parts & Accessories and Save 20% Now! *Sale ends Tonight 9/11/19 at Midnight(EST)*
Thanks, I did use it for another kit.
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Second range visit (4th overall) with MCARBO kit installed in my CZ75b polished stainless. Ran 200rds of 115gr Blazer Brass with no problems.
So in the last two weeks, I installed a MCARBO kit in my black CZ75b and in my CZ75b polished stainless, and went to the range four times firing 200rds for each visit with no light strikes or problems. I have a third kit on its way for my Canik C100 or another CZ75b I'm eyeing right now.
Attached pic. from 15yds today:
(https://i.imgur.com/NSUYJJL.jpg)
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Thanks for the review, just ordered my kit, at $25 delivered I couldn't see a downside. I do plan to get an extended firing pin (depending) and of course the floating pin. The floating pin will be a must because I want the short-reach kit too. I guess my one question is what is the weight on the hammer spring?
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Thanks for the review, just ordered my kit, at $25 delivered I couldn't see a downside. I do plan to get an extended firing pin (depending) and of course the floating pin. The floating pin will be a must because I want the short-reach kit too. I guess my one question is what is the weight on the hammer spring?
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They don't list the spring weights. I guess they would tell you if you emailed them or called.
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So, I did actually find a big downside, at least for me. Apparently, this kit doesn't work on the 75BD so back to CGW springs for me.
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So, I did actually find a big downside, at least for me. Apparently, this kit doesn't work on the 75BD so back to CGW springs for me.
It works in a PCR w/decocker. That's what another reviewer posted at the MCARBO website on his PCR w/decocker, just didn't install the sear spring. Is the sear spring different in the 75bd or other decocker models? I have no idea, all my CZ's have safeties.
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So, I did actually find a big downside, at least for me. Apparently, this kit doesn't work on the 75BD so back to CGW springs for me.
I have installed this kit in my CZ SP-01 Tactical but have not shot it yet but everything seems to function well. Looking to try it in the range this weekend.
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Well maybe I'll still give it a shot. I would really like to!
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So, I did actually find a big downside, at least for me. Apparently, this kit doesn't work on the 75BD so back to CGW springs for me.
It should work on the BD.
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I removed the MCarbo parts from the Phantom and put them in a 75 SAO. Before installation of the parts, the factory SAO (with no mods or polishing) was averaging about a 4.5 pound trigger pull. After the install, the gun is averaging a bit less than 2.75 pounds, closer to 2.5 than 2.75 on the spring scale.
I think I'm going to go back to the factory mainspring. The SA force isn't what I like for the "pencil test". In a SAO Shadow I've tested a bunch of mainsprings and found no appreciable change in trigger pull weight, but the extra force with higher weight springs makes for more reliable ignition.
I'm not entirely sold on the kit for a SAO gun - if not using the mainspring. However for a DA/SA gun I think the kit is a great deal.
My only gripe is the rice grain slave pin. It sucks compared to the CGW slave pin.
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Hopefully I'll have the kit today, but still waiting for some CGW parts too. While lightening the trigger pull is helpful, eventually, I think the most important will be the reach reduction kit, that trigger can be a stretch!
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Hopefully I'll have the kit today, but still waiting for some CGW parts too. While lightening the trigger pull is helpful, eventually, I think the most important will be the reach reduction kit, that trigger can be a stretch!
Why mix and match?
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Hopefully I'll have the kit today, but still waiting for some CGW parts too. While lightening the trigger pull is helpful, eventually, I think the most important will be the reach reduction kit, that trigger can be a stretch!
Why mix and match?
Probably waiting for a CGW floating trigger pin if nothing else, the MCARBO kit does not come with a replacement trigger pin, for $20 I wouldn’t expect it to.
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Hopefully I'll have the kit today, but still waiting for some CGW parts too. While lightening the trigger pull is helpful, eventually, I think the most important will be the reach reduction kit, that trigger can be a stretch!
Why mix and match?
Probably waiting for a CGW floating trigger pin if nothing else, the MCARBO kit does not come with a replacement trigger pin, for $20 I wouldn’t expect it to.
Correct, and the starter punch and slave pin.
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Hopefully I'll have the kit today, but still waiting for some CGW parts too. While lightening the trigger pull is helpful, eventually, I think the most important will be the reach reduction kit, that trigger can be a stretch!
Why mix and match?
Probably waiting for a CGW floating trigger pin if nothing else, the MCARBO kit does not come with a replacement trigger pin, for $20 I wouldn’t expect it to.
Seems like paying shipping twice would negate most of the savings.
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With my two MCARBO CZ75b kits, I reused the factory trigger pin in one and used a CGW floating pin in the other. I thought the second install would have destroyed the trigger pin because of the large flares it had, but that straightened out and looked really good after removal and most likely could have been reused. Anyway, the factory trigger pin I reused in the first install is holding up very well after 400rds so far with no lateral movement, and the CGW pin is working well too.
Also, I purchased a third kit with a 20% discount, only on 9-11, thinking I could install it in my Tristar C-100 or another 75b I was looking at. I took my C-100 out today for the install and changed my mind since that handgun has a really decent factory trigger. I don't want a 3lb SA pull in a concealed carry handgun, just my preference.
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Hopefully I'll have the kit today, but still waiting for some CGW parts too. While lightening the trigger pull is helpful, eventually, I think the most important will be the reach reduction kit, that trigger can be a stretch!
Why mix and match?
Probably waiting for a CGW floating trigger pin if nothing else, the MCARBO kit does not come with a replacement trigger pin, for $20 I wouldn’t expect it to.
Seems like paying shipping twice would negate most of the savings.
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Yea I don't really understand this kit either.
To work on the trigger you need a floating trigger pin because the flared pin from the factory should not be reused.
Sure you might be able to... But the floating pin is $6 or $7 that can be reused in the future. Working the trigger on these guns, my trigger pin comes out 10+ times. I would never consider reusing it.
If the cost of the floating pin breaks the bank then there are bigger problems than a slightly lighter trigger pull.
Having to buy springs from one place and then buying the floating trigger pin from another negates any significant cost savings.
I appreciate the experimental approach and attitude but it seems like a lot to go through for such minimal financial gains.
It would be like driving 20 miles away to get a deal, saving 2 bucks on your motor oil..but still having to buy your oil filter from your typical place.
Unless this is purely for educational purposes I just don't get it.
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lol, it's not like I'm spending $10 for a $5 pin. Plus who knows what else is in that shipment?
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lol, it's not like I'm spending $10 for a $5 pin. Plus who knows what else is in that shipment?
The question for some of us is this:
Why skimp on the springs with an unproven kit just to save a few bucks when you still have to buy the rest of the parts from CGW?
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Such negativity in here over new products for the CZ 75. If someone bought the product and they're happy with the results, why try to convince them that they'd have been better off with a more expensive alternative at a higher cost? If you don't have anything good to say...
I remember when "the Angus hammer" was relatively "unproven" and when a guy from Louisiana began selling his "unproven" parts. MCarbo parts for the CZ may not have a lot of time behind them, but it's not MCarbo's first rodeo.
MCarbo is offering a handful of parts for $23 shipped. Do you know what $23 shipped gets me at CGW? A trigger pin, shipping, and $2 to spare.
Perhaps MCarbo will start selling a trigger pin, I know they're already looking at CZ triggers...
Anyhow, I'm happy with my $23 bag of MCarbo parts. I'm also happy with my CZ UB parts, CZC parts, CGW parts, and RCtech parts. The more offerings, the better.
lol, it's not like I'm spending $10 for a $5 pin. Plus who knows what else is in that shipment?
The question for some of us is this:
Why skimp on the springs with an unproven kit just to save a few bucks when you still have to buy the rest of the parts from CGW?
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
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Such negativity in here over new products for the CZ 75. If someone bought the product and they're happy with the results, why try to convince them that they'd have been better off with a more expensive alternative at a higher cost? If you don't have anything good to say...
I remember when "the Angus hammer" was relatively "unproven" and when a guy from Louisiana began selling his "unproven" parts. MCarbo parts for the CZ may not have a lot of time behind them, but it's not MCarbo's first rodeo.
MCarbo is offering a handful of parts for $23 shipped. Do you know what $23 shipped gets me at CGW? A trigger pin, shipping, and $2 to spare.
Perhaps MCarbo will start selling a trigger pin, I know they're already looking at CZ triggers...
Anyhow, I'm happy with my $23 bag of MCarbo parts. I'm also happy with my CZ UB parts, CZC parts, CGW parts, and RCtech parts. The more offerings, the better.
lol, it's not like I'm spending $10 for a $5 pin. Plus who knows what else is in that shipment?
The question for some of us is this:
Why skimp on the springs with an unproven kit just to save a few bucks when you still have to buy the rest of the parts from CGW?
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
IDK man seems to me it was just a question, not a negative statement? Seems like a lot of folks in this thread are overly sensitive of any perceived criticism, or questioning of the true value vs perceived savings in these kits. Earl asked a question, jokester might or might not answer it. IMHO either the MCARBO kit will sell and grow on its own merits or it won’t. I don’t know if the guys at MCARBO need all the cheerleaders they are getting in these threads, but I can say that the aggressive defense and personal attacks on anybody who doesn’t drink the MCARBO koolaid is starting to get seriously irritating.
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Such negativity in here over new products for the CZ 75. If someone bought the product and they're happy with the results, why try to convince them that they'd have been better off with a more expensive alternative at a higher cost? If you don't have anything good to say...
I remember when "the Angus hammer" was relatively "unproven" and when a guy from Louisiana began selling his "unproven" parts. MCarbo parts for the CZ may not have a lot of time behind them, but it's not MCarbo's first rodeo.
MCarbo is offering a handful of parts for $23 shipped. Do you know what $23 shipped gets me at CGW? A trigger pin, shipping, and $2 to spare.
Perhaps MCarbo will start selling a trigger pin, I know they're already looking at CZ triggers...
Anyhow, I'm happy with my $23 bag of MCarbo parts. I'm also happy with my CZ UB parts, CZC parts, CGW parts, and RCtech parts. The more offerings, the better.
lol, it's not like I'm spending $10 for a $5 pin. Plus who knows what else is in that shipment?
The question for some of us is this:
Why skimp on the springs with an unproven kit just to save a few bucks when you still have to buy the rest of the parts from CGW?
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
This is a discussion forum.
I simply asked a question, as part of that discussion. Deal with it.
FWIW, the Mcarbo kit isn't a "new" product. It's a low price alternative to an established product that another company developed. I really don't understand why a few people here are so defensive and apparently married to this product. It's pretty much guaranteed that any post in this thread that isn't a glowing recommendation, will be immediately followed by one or two people defending this product that they've only used for a couple weeks. Pardon me for being skeptical.
I stated early on, that I see value in new/different products being developed for this platform. The APEX Tactical kits are a prime example, they offer something new. Still unproven, but they are innovative.
This product is not that, it's just cheaper. In the end, that may prove to be a good thing, maybe not.
My comments are sometimes intended to generate further conversation and provide documentation to assist new users in making decisions about products or modifications.
Mixing cheap parts with Cajun or CZC parts is in my opinion false economy. I can call or message David, Scott, or Stuart just about anytime and get outstanding product support, virtually on demand. Their profitability directly impacts their willingness to provide that service to me at no extra cost. When profitability is driven from an industry, innovation leaves with it.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
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Such negativity in here over new products for the CZ 75. If someone bought the product and they're happy with the results, why try to convince them that they'd have been better off with a more expensive alternative at a higher cost? If you don't have anything good to say...
I remember when "the Angus hammer" was relatively "unproven" and when a guy from Louisiana began selling his "unproven" parts. MCarbo parts for the CZ may not have a lot of time behind them, but it's not MCarbo's first rodeo.
MCarbo is offering a handful of parts for $23 shipped. Do you know what $23 shipped gets me at CGW? A trigger pin, shipping, and $2 to spare.
Perhaps MCarbo will start selling a trigger pin, I know they're already looking at CZ triggers...
Anyhow, I'm happy with my $23 bag of MCarbo parts. I'm also happy with my CZ UB parts, CZC parts, CGW parts, and RCtech parts. The more offerings, the better.
I don't think negatively is the right word. None of us here are bashing MCARBO.
The appeal of this kit is price so it's totally appropriate to discuss the associated costs with modifying the trigger properly. Not doing so and touting only the cost benefit of the actual parts of this kit would be deceptive.
I do this because when I started with CZ's early in I had to learn a lot quickly and I paid more because I didn't have the right information.
Here ia what I learned:
1. Modifying these guns is expensive but the potential gains are incredible. When complete these guns are by far the best handguns I own.
2. Always use a floating trigger pin. You shouldn't reuse the flared pin
3. Buy a starter pin to remove the factory flare. Normal punches aren't as effective and you risk damaging parts.
4. Replace the firing pin retaining pin with a hardened one.
5. Use an O-ring to dry fire.
I'm sure there are more.
So let's discuss MCARBO specifically. I think it's great they offer parts. I don't think they understand the market. I think they offer a kit that is competitively priced yet overlook that other parts are necessary to complete the install. I suggest they make a floating trigger pin and offer a starter punch for sale with their kit.
This would be analogous to the discount motor oil example. Whoever sells discount motor oil should realize that at some point they should offer oil filters too... Because the two sort of go hand-in-hand and any cost saving on discount motor oil is negated by using multiple vendors and paying shipping etc.
For the consumer : I think it's the right thing to do to have these discussions and provide people with all the information needed to modify these guns.
When I started modifying my CZ's I didn't buy a starter punch and didn't buy a floating trigger pin. As soon as I sat down to disassemble the gun I struggled with the pin. I realized instantly that I couldn't use it again. Guess what. I had to go buy one and pay shipping costs a second time and wait a few days for it to arrive. I also picked up a starter punch. That cost me more money and more hassle. It was a learning experience.
You can call the mention of this "negativity" but my intention is really to inform others of what is really necessary when you make these changes.
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The CGW floating trigger pin alone is $13 plus shipping. Personally, I'm very happy how the MCARBO kit transformed my two 75's, it was an incredible change for my two handguns. I never thought that was possible for under $100+. Correct me if I'm wrong, but does CGW or CZC even sell a lighter sear spring?
Oh, as of yesterday, there was 9 reviews at the MCARBO site for the CZ75 kit.
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The CGW floating trigger pin alone is $13 plus shipping. Personally, I'm very happy how the MCARBO kit transformed my two 75's, it was an incredible change for my two handguns. I never thought that was possible for under $100+. Correct me if I'm wrong, but does CGW or CZC even sell a lighter sear spring?
Oh, as of yesterday, there was 9 reviews at the MCARBO site for the CZ75 kit.
I haven checked the cost of the floating trigger pin. I will still always buy one. I don't know how you would detail strip your gun and re-assemble it without one.
Lighter sear springs can cause issues with the hammer. CGW explained it to me a while ago. I forget what they called it. I believe something like "hammer bounce" or "sear bounce" or something like that. That in some cases lightened sear springs can cause the hammer to fall to half cock while shooting.
I have Cajuns lightened sear springs as part of their kit for the P07 and P09. So yes they make them. They gave me guidance on when to use them and what to expect for reliability.
If I recall correctly (I don't have the best memory), they opted not to produce a lightened sear spring for the 75's.
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For just pull weight I would change out the hammer spring to a 13 pound spring.
I would also change out the firing pin block spring and firing pin spring.
If you get a lightened trigger spring all of this would significantly drop your pull weights to what the MCARBO kit is doing.
That's probably about $20 worth of parts.
However I personally wouldn't recommend just that.
I would always put in a hardened firing pin retaining pin as well as a floating trigger pin.
After doing all of this you'd have a reliable and lower pull-weight CZ.
To get a much crisper break and better reset you will want a hammer, a sear and a disconnector. To many this is unnecessary and they are fine just lowering the weight with springs.
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lol, it's not like I'm spending $10 for a $5 pin. Plus who knows what else is in that shipment?
The question for some of us is this:
Why skimp on the springs with an unproven kit just to save a few bucks when you still have to buy the rest of the parts from CGW?
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Probably the same reason I have multiple grips for my CZs and 1911s, and different springs from Wolff and Wilson. I didn't realize cost was such an issue, I don't always buy one spring from one manufacturer. Hell, I have a drawer full of 1911 recoil springs, some duplicate weights. For the record the Mcarbo is going into a 75bd, my PCR gets CGW guts, but CZC Grips and sights...but now that I've said that I'm certain there is going to be a question on "why mix and match?" again (because I got the grips, gold trijicon dot, and black rear which I like more than the CZW offerings). And another mix and match I might do is put the PCR slide on the 75BD frame. Now I will say I'm in CA, therefore my option on CZ guns is crippled, so pretty much anything that comes out gets a try.
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The CGW floating trigger pin alone is $13 plus shipping. Personally, I'm very happy how the MCARBO kit transformed my two 75's, it was an incredible change for my two handguns. I never thought that was possible for under $100+. Correct me if I'm wrong, but does CGW or CZC even sell a lighter sear spring?
Oh, as of yesterday, there was 9 reviews at the MCARBO site for the CZ75 kit.
I haven checked the cost of the floating trigger pin. I will still always buy one. I don't know how you would detail strip your gun and re-assemble it without one.
Lighter sear springs can cause issues with the hammer. CGW explained it to me a while ago. I forget what they called it. I believe something like "hammer bounce" or "sear bounce" or something like that. That in some cases lightened sear springs can cause the hammer to fall to half cock while shooting.
I have Cajuns lightened sear springs as part of their kit for the P07 and P09. So yes they make them. They gave me guidance on when to use them and what to expect for reliability.
If I recall correctly (I don't have the best memory), they opted not to produce a lightened sear spring for the 75's.
I could see the hammer bounce happening, and makes sense. I'll omit the sear spring plus didn't want to go in there till I get the new lifter. Question, can I remove the trigger bar without removing the sear cage? or can I lift the sear cage out completely in one piece like with the 75 B models?
Thanks for the sear spring tip, makes sense.
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lol, it's not like I'm spending $10 for a $5 pin. Plus who knows what else is in that shipment?
The question for some of us is this:
Why skimp on the springs with an unproven kit just to save a few bucks when you still have to buy the rest of the parts from CGW?
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Probably the same reason I have multiple grips for my CZs and 1911s, and different springs from Wolff and Wilson. I didn't realize cost was such an issue, I don't always buy one spring from one manufacturer. Hell, I have a drawer full of 1911 recoil springs, some duplicate weights. For the record the Mcarbo is going into a 75bd, my PCR gets CGW guts, but CZC Grips and sights...but now that I've said that I'm certain there is going to be a question on "why mix and match?" again (because I got the grips, gold trijicon dot, and black rear which I like more than the CZW offerings). And another mix and match I might do is put the PCR slide on the 75BD frame. Now I will say I'm in CA, therefore my option on CZ guns is crippled, so pretty much anything that comes out gets a try.
It was a common sense question, sorry to bother you with it. Curious about your logic for purchasing from both sources, that's all.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
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lol, it's not like I'm spending $10 for a $5 pin. Plus who knows what else is in that shipment?
The question for some of us is this:
Why skimp on the springs with an unproven kit just to save a few bucks when you still have to buy the rest of the parts from CGW?
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Probably the same reason I have multiple grips for my CZs and 1911s, and different springs from Wolff and Wilson. I didn't realize cost was such an issue, I don't always buy one spring from one manufacturer. Hell, I have a drawer full of 1911 recoil springs, some duplicate weights. For the record the Mcarbo is going into a 75bd, my PCR gets CGW guts, but CZC Grips and sights...but now that I've said that I'm certain there is going to be a question on "why mix and match?" again (because I got the grips, gold trijicon dot, and black rear which I like more than the CZW offerings). And another mix and match I might do is put the PCR slide on the 75BD frame. Now I will say I'm in CA, therefore my option on CZ guns is crippled, so pretty much anything that comes out gets a try.
It was a common sense question, sorry to bother you with it. Curious about your logic for purchasing from both sources, that's all.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
It's all good brother, rereading what I wrote, I sound saltier than I meant it. I would say being in CA is the broad answer to your question.
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This potential hammer bounce thing using a lighter sear spring has my attention. I have 400rds through each of my 75's with zero problems (800 total), and no light primer strikes. That's a pretty good sampling so far, and if this hammer bounce should occur, about how many more rounds will it take? I'm learning, I have no idea so bear with me. Is this one of those things where it might happen or never happen to some?
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The CGW floating trigger pin alone is $13 plus shipping. Personally, I'm very happy how the MCARBO kit transformed my two 75's, it was an incredible change for my two handguns. I never thought that was possible for under $100+. Correct me if I'm wrong, but does CGW or CZC even sell a lighter sear spring?
Oh, as of yesterday, there was 9 reviews at the MCARBO site for the CZ75 kit.
I haven checked the cost of the floating trigger pin. I will still always buy one. I don't know how you would detail strip your gun and re-assemble it without one.
Lighter sear springs can cause issues with the hammer. CGW explained it to me a while ago. I forget what they called it. I believe something like "hammer bounce" or "sear bounce" or something like that. That in some cases lightened sear springs can cause the hammer to fall to half cock while shooting.
I have Cajuns lightened sear springs as part of their kit for the P07 and P09. So yes they make them. They gave me guidance on when to use them and what to expect for reliability.
If I recall correctly (I don't have the best memory), they opted not to produce a lightened sear spring for the 75's.
I could see the hammer bounce happening, and makes sense. I'll omit the sear spring plus didn't want to go in there till I get the new lifter. Question, can I remove the trigger bar without removing the sear cage? or can I lift the sear cage out completely in one piece like with the 75 B models?
Thanks for the sear spring tip, makes sense.
You can if you are running only SA (no disconnector) and you remove the trigger pin. Otherwise you gotta take the sear out.
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I believe it is a problem that happens at speed.
But CGW knows more than I do. I'm merely repeating what they've researched and told me... And likely omitting many facts in the process. I don't have personal experience with it.
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This potential hammer bounce thing using a lighter sear spring has my attention. I have 400rds through each of my 75's with zero problems (800 total), and no light primer strikes. That's a pretty good sampling so far, and if this hammer bounce should occur, about how many more rounds will it take? I'm learning, I have no idea so bear with me. Is this one of those things where it might happen or never happen to some?
You would already notice it. It happens with 1911s with weak springs and isn't something that actually "gets worse" it happens from the get go. Imagine putting weak springs on a car and going over a bump, the car bounces a few times before settling, same with the hammer.
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This potential hammer bounce thing using a lighter sear spring has my attention. I have 400rds through each of my 75's with zero problems (800 total), and no light primer strikes. That's a pretty good sampling so far, and if this hammer bounce should occur, about how many more rounds will it take? I'm learning, I have no idea so bear with me. Is this one of those things where it might happen or never happen to some?
You would already notice it. It happens with 1911s with weak springs and isn't something that actually "gets worse" it happens from the get go. Imagine putting weak springs on a car and going over a bump, the car bounces a few times before settling, same with the hammer.
Thanks, then both of mine should be ok based on that explanation since neither of mine have not dropped to a 1/2 cock position. I shoot at an indoor range where no more than two rounds of fast firing is allowed.
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Decocker sear cage can be removed intact if you use a slave pin.
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I received my third MCARBO CZ75b kit, but I decided not to install it in my Tristar C-100 since it already has a good trigger for a CCW. I didn't want to waste the kit, so I have another new CZ75b polished stainless on the way... :) :).
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I received my third MCARBO CZ75b kit, but I decided not to install it in my Tristar C-100 since it already has a good trigger for a CCW. I didn't want to waste the kit, so I have another new CZ75b polished stainless on the way... :) :).
I have heard of someone buy a gun because they had extra ammo or too many mags, but never because they had a few extra springs laying around....but, it makes perfect sense to me. O0
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I received my third MCARBO CZ75b kit, but I decided not to install it in my Tristar C-100 since it already has a good trigger for a CCW. I didn't want to waste the kit, so I have another new CZ75b polished stainless on the way... :) :).
I have heard of someone buy a gun because they had extra ammo or too many mags, but never because they had a few extra springs laying around....but, it makes perfect sense to me. O0
Thanks, I agree.
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I received my third MCARBO CZ75b kit, but I decided not to install it in my Tristar C-100 since it already has a good trigger for a CCW. I didn't want to waste the kit, so I have another new CZ75b polished stainless on the way... :) :).
You won't spend $10 more for springs but you'll buy another gun for ~$700
Eh. I've probably done the same thing.
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So I installed the springs, trigger return, firing pin block, firing pin, and hammer spring. I omitted the sear spring in case of the previously discussed hammer bounce. It definitely lowered my DA to around 8 vs. before I couldn't even read it, and SA down from 4.5 to 3.5 lbs.
However, the trigger return spring is so light sometimes the trigger doesn't reset immediately, like its rubbing on something or more obviously the spring isn't strong enough. I went back to the stock spring and problem solved. But was wondering if anyone else experienced this? part of me wonders if I need to replace the sear spring too (because of the reset) but I would prefer not to. Any insight, recommendations, or thoughts?
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So I installed the springs, trigger return, firing pin block, firing pin, and hammer spring. I omitted the sear spring in case of the previously discussed hammer bounce. It definitely lowered my DA to around 8 vs. before I couldn't even read it, and SA down from 4.5 to 3.5 lbs.
However, the trigger return spring is so light sometimes the trigger doesn't reset immediately, like its rubbing on something or more obviously the spring isn't strong enough. I went back to the stock spring and problem solved. But was wondering if anyone else experienced this? part of me wonders if I need to replace the sear spring too (because of the reset) but I would prefer not to. Any insight, recommendations, or thoughts?
You shouldn't need to replace the sear spring to get the gun to reset.
Check the trigger support spring to make sure it's riding in the trigger bar correctly.
Take a grip panel off to verify it.
Also make sure it's adjusted properly (high enough pressure)
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I'm going to give it another try but everything looks okay. However, wouldn't be the first time I missed something small. The spring almost has enough tension so maybe it isn't sitting correctly.
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Pic of it in the gun?
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Pic of it in the gun?
Will do, but I'm back to stock right now for the weekend I think. But most likely will tinker late at night.
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Okay, redid the spring, and back to stock again after. Trigger is still sticking. Here are some pics:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190928/ca8e0b48cb3f71a0378e36e71103da54.jpg)
Top down spring seated
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190928/46fc16efb2ec7ee90779532b33bb5fab.jpg)
Bottom up from mag well
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190928/2c993f14fcffeaab2d824b2eaeaace1d.jpg)
Hammer cocked ready SA
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190928/7d59b1f5c2333371b3c0dc1598031089.jpg)
Trigger pulled,no reset (should have removed my finger )
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190928/bb2951dd13d498323b8869b7d75ce975.jpg)
Trigger reset after flicking it forward
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190928/c41f846e45078432c276138a6cd7ab3c.jpg)
Trigger bar after pulling the trigger
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190928/7f622c2919e88fe53dc499d09b5e35e1.jpg)
Trigger bar after flicking trigger forward.
I’m wondering if the bar is hanging on the sear cage preventing the trigger and bar to reset? Again, it doesn’t happen with the stock spring.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Well something must be hanging somewhere. Both of my 75's (with safeties) have the whole kit installed, and the trigger return and reset is more than enough. I know this doesn't help your problem, so maybe a couple of CZ experts can nail it down for you.
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Well something must be hanging somewhere. Both of my 75's (with safeties) have the whole kit installed, and the trigger return and reset is more than enough. I know this doesn't help your problem, so maybe a couple of CZ experts can nail it down for you.
I assume you did the sear spring? I omitted that one as a precaution. I doubt that’s it but it is possible (if the spring isn’t giving enough movement to reset the sear). I also have an email in to MCarbo but gonna see if I can figure it out with the help of this board.
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Well something must be hanging somewhere. Both of my 75's (with safeties) have the whole kit installed, and the trigger return and reset is more than enough. I know this doesn't help your problem, so maybe a couple of CZ experts can nail it down for you.
I assume you did the sear spring? I omitted that one as a precaution. I doubt that’s it but it is possible (if the spring isn’t giving enough movement to reset the sear). I also have an email in to MCarbo but gonna see if I can figure it out with the help of this board.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, I installed the sear spring in both.
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I just looked at the MCARBO site, and I don't see a CZ 75BD listed for this kit. I have no idea if that's the reason or not.
CZ 75 Trigger Spring Kit is compatible with other CZ Models listed in chart.
75B 75 Compact 75D PCR 97BD Decocker
40B SP-01 Phantom SP-01 Manual Safety Canik
40P 75B/SA 97B Manual Safety
P01 85B SP-01 Tactical/Decocker
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Shouldn't matter.
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Yeah, most with the BD just skip the sear spring, but I might give it a try. If I pull the trigger quickly it resets, if I squeeze the trigger it doesn’t.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Okay, redid the spring, and back to stock again after. Trigger is still sticking. Here are some pics:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190928/ca8e0b48cb3f71a0378e36e71103da54.jpg)
Top down spring seated
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190928/46fc16efb2ec7ee90779532b33bb5fab.jpg)
Bottom up from mag well
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190928/2c993f14fcffeaab2d824b2eaeaace1d.jpg)
Hammer cocked ready SA
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190928/7d59b1f5c2333371b3c0dc1598031089.jpg)
Trigger pulled,no reset (should have removed my finger )
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190928/bb2951dd13d498323b8869b7d75ce975.jpg)
Trigger reset after flicking it forward
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190928/c41f846e45078432c276138a6cd7ab3c.jpg)
Trigger bar after pulling the trigger
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190928/7f622c2919e88fe53dc499d09b5e35e1.jpg)
Trigger bar after flicking trigger forward.
I’m wondering if the bar is hanging on the sear cage preventing the trigger and bar to reset? Again, it doesn’t happen with the stock spring.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Your bottom up from magwell looks like it is problematic.
The trigger bar support spring has rounded loops that should ride in the channels of the trigger bar.
At no point should it contact the frame.
It looks like yours is contacting the frame and potentially causing it to bind.
But it's hard to tell from the pics.
The second thing to do is adjust this spring to make sure there is enough tension on it.
I believe Schmecky from CGW detailed how to do this.
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[/quote]Your bottom up from magwell looks like it is problematic.
The trigger bar support spring has rounded loops that should ride in the channels of the trigger bar.
At no point should it contact the frame.
It looks like yours is contacting the frame and potentially causing it to bind.
But it's hard to tell from the pics.
The second thing to do is adjust this spring to make sure there is enough tension on it.
I believe Schmecky from CGW detailed how to do this.
[/quote]
I went in all the way, removed the sear cage so polishing all contact points. The inside walls of the frame were really rough, so took some 1000 grit to them and feels much better, both where the trigger bar is and the trigger itself. Also polished the trigger bar, and sear cage contact points, and the rails too. However, I broke the lifter spring it got caught in the frame hole and snapped! So I'm still sidelined, ordered some lifter springs and a few other springs too. Hopefully, I'll get them by Wednesday. When I put it all back together I'll make sure I watch the support spring.
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I went in all the way, removed the sear cage so polishing all contact points. The inside walls of the frame were really rough, so took some 1000 grit to them and feels much better, both where the trigger bar is and the trigger itself. Also polished the trigger bar, and sear cage contact points, and the rails too. However, I broke the lifter spring it got caught in the frame hole and snapped! So I'm still sidelined, ordered some lifter springs and a few other springs too. Hopefully, I'll get them by Wednesday. When I put it all back together I'll make sure I watch the support spring.
If you're talking about the lifter for the firing pin block, you can remove the firing pin block altogether for testing.
When you reassemble the support spring be careful not to over torque the screw. When that happens you twist the support spring and if ends up grinding it into the frame on one side, ensuring that it does not ride properly in the trigger bar.
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I picked up the new polished stainless CZ75b on Wednesday and took it to the range that same day and ran 200rds with no problems. Back to the range today for another 200rds with no problems. Now I know there's no factory problems and can install another MCARBO kit.... :)
(https://i.imgur.com/k5brpiC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eEBsFHJ.jpg)
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Installed the third kit in the new stainless 75b. This install didn't go as smoothly as the other two. Punched out the trigger roll pin, and the roll pin punch was stuck solidly in the frame hole and would not come out. I was able to pull the roll pin out, but the 3/32 punch was stuck really good. I went to the store and bought another punch to bang it out from the other side, but that only broke the new punch. The original punch sheared off later, with about about 3/4" of the shaft remaining, because I was twisting the original punch trying to remove it.
Next step was the local gunsmith since I'm lacking the tools to remove this stuck punch. Anyway, $65 later the gunsmith was finally able to remove it by using a drill bit to relieve the pressure and soaking it in lubricant.
I have absolutely no idea why the punch got stuck that bad in that bleep hole in the first place. A 30 minute trigger spring kit install turned into a several hour nightmare.
I finally finished the install after this headache. I didn't put a the pull gauge on it, but' it's close to the others. A very good bonding experience.
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Installed the third kit in the new stainless 75b. This install didn't go as smoothly as the other two. Punched out the trigger return roll pin, and the roll pin punch was stuck solidly in the frame hole and would not come out. I was able to pull the roll pin out, but the 3/32 punch was stuck really good. I went to the store and bought another punch to bang it out from the other side, but that only broke the new punch. The original punch sheared off later, with about about 3/4" of the shaft remaining, because I was twisting the original punch trying to remove it.
Next step was the local gunsmith since I'm lacking the tools to remove this stuck punch. Anyway, $65 later the gunsmith was finally able to remove it by using a drill bit to relieve the pressure and soaking it in lubricant.
I have absolutely no idea why the punch got stuck that bad in that bleep hole in the first place. A 30 minute trigger spring kit install turned into a several hour nightmare.
I finally finished the install after this headache. I didn't put a the pull gauge on it, but' it's close to the others. A very good bonding experience.
Funny, I'm having a similar problem but with the sear cage. I bought a new punch set because the cheapo one I was using wasn't cutting it, I even tried an Allen wrench but I bent the hell out of that. Ideally, I should have the punch set by Wed. but I agree this has been a great bonding experience, I can rebuild the sear now in under 5 min. and have polished up everything inside as well.
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Installed the third kit in the new stainless 75b. This install didn't go as smoothly as the other two. Punched out the trigger return roll pin, and the roll pin punch was stuck solidly in the frame hole and would not come out. I was able to pull the roll pin out, but the 3/32 punch was stuck really good. I went to the store and bought another punch to bang it out from the other side, but that only broke the new punch. The original punch sheared off later, with about about 3/4" of the shaft remaining, because I was twisting the original punch trying to remove it.
Next step was the local gunsmith since I'm lacking the tools to remove this stuck punch. Anyway, $65 later the gunsmith was finally able to remove it by using a drill bit to relieve the pressure and soaking it in lubricant.
I have absolutely no idea why the punch got stuck that bad in that bleep hole in the first place. A 30 minute trigger spring kit install turned into a several hour nightmare.
I finally finished the install after this headache. I didn't put a the pull gauge on it, but' it's close to the others. A very good bonding experience.
This is why CGW recommends using a starter punch.
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Installed the third kit in the new stainless 75b. This install didn't go as smoothly as the other two. Punched out the trigger return roll pin, and the roll pin punch was stuck solidly in the frame hole and would not come out. I was able to pull the roll pin out, but the 3/32 punch was stuck really good. I went to the store and bought another punch to bang it out from the other side, but that only broke the new punch. The original punch sheared off later, with about about 3/4" of the shaft remaining, because I was twisting the original punch trying to remove it.
Next step was the local gunsmith since I'm lacking the tools to remove this stuck punch. Anyway, $65 later the gunsmith was finally able to remove it by using a drill bit to relieve the pressure and soaking it in lubricant.
I have absolutely no idea why the punch got stuck that bad in that bleep hole in the first place. A 30 minute trigger spring kit install turned into a several hour nightmare.
I finally finished the install after this headache. I didn't put a the pull gauge on it, but' it's close to the others. A very good bonding experience.
I do this because when I started with CZ's early in I had to learn a lot quickly and I paid more because I didn't have the right information.
Here is what I learned:
1. Modifying these guns is expensive but the potential gains are incredible. When complete these guns are by far the best handguns I own.
2. Always use a floating trigger pin. You shouldn't reuse the flared pin
3. Buy a starter pin to remove the factory flare. Normal punches aren't as effective and you risk damaging parts.
4. Replace the firing pin retaining pin with a hardened one.
5. Use an O-ring to dry fire.
I'm sure there are more.
When I started modifying my CZ's I didn't buy a starter punch and didn't buy a floating trigger pin. As soon as I sat down to disassemble the gun I struggled with the pin. I realized instantly that I couldn't use it again. Guess what. I had to go buy one and pay shipping costs a second time and wait a few days for it to arrive. I also picked up a starter punch. That cost me more money and more hassle. It was a learning experience.
I quoted my comment from earlier.
I guess you learned your lesson (I hope).
I'm not trying to gloat... Only trying to prove a point that the rest of us have been trying to articulate and you seem adamant to argue.
It looks like any cost savings you experienced are out the window and you still don't have the floating trigger pins or a starter punch to do this properly.
I know exactly what you went through. I did the exact same thing myself. As I mentioned in my post I now have a starter punch and out floating trigger pins on all my guns. I suggest you do the same.
Hopefully you haven't enlarged the hole large enough that a floating trigger pin still fits and won't walk itself out. You can use some red loctite in order to try and keep it in there if that's the case.
Also, please stop promoting this kit unless you also provide the disclaimer that you'll need to buy a starter punch and floating pin from someone else. That completes this kit in my opinion and you are proof that is the case. I wouldn't want someone else to experience what you just did. (though I appreciate your honesty and posting about it)
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Installed the third kit in the new stainless 75b. This install didn't go as smoothly as the other two. Punched out the trigger return roll pin, and the roll pin punch was stuck solidly in the frame hole and would not come out. I was able to pull the roll pin out, but the 3/32 punch was stuck really good. I went to the store and bought another punch to bang it out from the other side, but that only broke the new punch. The original punch sheared off later, with about about 3/4" of the shaft remaining, because I was twisting the original punch trying to remove it.
Next step was the local gunsmith since I'm lacking the tools to remove this stuck punch. Anyway, $65 later the gunsmith was finally able to remove it by using a drill bit to relieve the pressure and soaking it in lubricant.
I have absolutely no idea why the punch got stuck that bad in that bleep hole in the first place. A 30 minute trigger spring kit install turned into a several hour nightmare.
I finally finished the install after this headache. I didn't put a the pull gauge on it, but' it's close to the others. A very good bonding experience.
I do this because when I started with CZ's early in I had to learn a lot quickly and I paid more because I didn't have the right information.
Here is what I learned:
1. Modifying these guns is expensive but the potential gains are incredible. When complete these guns are by far the best handguns I own.
2. Always use a floating trigger pin. You shouldn't reuse the flared pin
3. Buy a starter pin to remove the factory flare. Normal punches aren't as effective and you risk damaging parts.
4. Replace the firing pin retaining pin with a hardened one.
5. Use an O-ring to dry fire.
I'm sure there are more.
When I started modifying my CZ's I didn't buy a starter punch and didn't buy a floating trigger pin. As soon as I sat down to disassemble the gun I struggled with the pin. I realized instantly that I couldn't use it again. Guess what. I had to go buy one and pay shipping costs a second time and wait a few days for it to arrive. I also picked up a starter punch. That cost me more money and more hassle. It was a learning experience.
I quoted my comment from earlier.
I guess you learned your lesson (I hope).
I'm not trying to gloat... Only trying to prove a point that the rest of us have been trying to articulate and you seem adamant to argue.
It looks like any cost savings you experienced are out the window and you still don't have the floating trigger pins or a starter punch to do this properly.
I know exactly what you went through. I did the exact same thing myself. As I mentioned in my post I now have a starter punch and out floating trigger pins on all my guns. I suggest you do the same.
Hopefully you haven't enlarged the hole large enough that a floating trigger pin still fits and won't walk itself out. You can use some red loctite in order to try and keep it in there if that's the case.
Also, please stop promoting this kit unless you also provide the disclaimer that you'll need to buy a starter punch and floating pin from someone else. That completes this kit in my opinion and you are proof that is the case. I wouldn't want someone else to experience what you just did. (though I appreciate your honesty and posting about it)
Well the other two installs went fine with the roll pin punches I have. The hole wasn't enlarged, only a slight radius was done where the tip of the punch was almost sticking out through the first section of the frame block. The factory trigger pin looked ok, so it was reinstalled, just like the first kit install.
I have nothing more to promote since I ran out of CZ's that required better trigger pulls. Saying you need the tools to do the job does not require a disclaimer, that's rather obvious.
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Well the other two installs went fine with the roll pin punches I have. The hole wasn't enlarged, only a slight radius was done where the tip of the punch was almost sticking out through the first section of the frame block. The factory trigger pin looked ok, so it was reinstalled, just like the first kit install.
I have nothing more to promote since I ran out of CZ's that required better trigger pulls. Saying you need the tools to do the job does not require a disclaimer, that's rather obvious.
It didn't seem obvious to you.
How did you re-flare the factory pin?
Clearly your post has motivated other people to buy the MCARBO kit which you have been claiming to be a cost savings but did not account for the other items necessary to make this a complete install. (that is my opinion based on my experience)
I hope they are reading this and chose to buy the floating pins and starter punch if they decide to do this again or are struggling with their kit.
I have made a bigger mistake than you... Not using a starter punch I scraped the frame on a unicorn CZ removing the trigger pin. So now I'm going to likely refinish the entire frame.
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Two punches to re-flare, if that becomes necessary. The first one I did has not been re-flared, and it's holding fine so far after 400rds fired.
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Two punches to re-flare, if that becomes necessary. The first one I did has not been re-flared, and it's holding fine so far after 400rds fired.
You're probably fine...until you aren't one day. 400 rounds is not really a lot. I have seen people with problems with CZ's and they present at much higher round count. A common consumable is the trigger return spring. You'll need to remove the trigger pin to replace it.
If you plan on removing the trigger in the future for whatever reason I don't see how banging it out with a roll pin punch and re-flaring is going continue to go well. You've already seen how it can go wrong and that didn't account for re-flaring.
I've said it so many times already. I would advise to buy a floating trigger pin and starter punch. We aren't talking a ton of money here. You've already spent $65 on the gunsmith. I think that would cover 3 floating trigger pins, 1 starter punch as well as shipping.
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Two punches to re-flare, if that becomes necessary. The first one I did has not been re-flared, and it's holding fine so far after 400rds fired.
This adds so much to your credibility. ::)
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Two punches to re-flare, if that becomes necessary. The first one I did has not been re-flared, and it's holding fine so far after 400rds fired.
This adds so much to your credibility. ::)
Be more specific. If you are trying to be an idiot, you succeeded. If not, I apologize.
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Two punches to re-flare, if that becomes necessary. The first one I did has not been re-flared, and it's holding fine so far after 400rds fired.
This adds so much to your credibility. ::)
Be more specific. If you are trying to be an idiot, you succeeded. If not, I apologize.
Only one of us looks like an idiot here. Have you ever changed a tire? How many lug nuts do you leave off? Surely they aren't all necessary.
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Two punches to re-flare, if that becomes necessary. The first one I did has not been re-flared, and it's holding fine so far after 400rds fired.
This adds so much to your credibility. ::)
Be more specific. If you are trying to be an idiot, you succeeded. If not, I apologize.
Only one of us looks like an idiot here. Have you ever changed a tire? How many lug nuts do you leave off? Surely they aren't all necessary.
Yep, I was right. The self proclaimed genius has spoken with a fitting analogy that supports his IQ.
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So anyway, once I get the sear back in and try everything it should function without a problem. I don't think I'll do the PCR though, however I would love a long slide and barrel for the 75BD.
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I hope it works out for you. It appears you did everything right.
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So anyway, once I get the sear back in and try everything it should function without a problem. I don't think I'll do the PCR though, however I would love a long slide and barrel for the 75BD.
Did you get your trigger bar support spring in place and verify it's correct?
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This morning, I pulled out the digital luggage scale to check the SA and DA pull weight on this third install. The SA is ~2.8-3.0 and DA is ~7.8-8.0lbs. I did adjust the trigger bar spring to reduce some of the grittiness that, on rare occasion, slowed and almost stopped the trigger return if you let off the trigger very very slowly. That worked out well. This was not necessary on my other two installs since they were both pretty smooth to begin with. I hope to get to the range later today and run off a couple hundred rounds.
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Back from the range after running 100rds S&B and 100 Magtech with no hiccups. The primer hits look like the other two kits that were pictured earlier in the thread. Even though each CZ75b is unique to it's birth date, the MCARBO kit results are almost identical with ~3lb SA and 8lb DA.
I'm done with this review and will probably never post another one. There's a pretty tough crowd here that doesn't like new products that interfere with the status quo. I enjoyed doing the review and think I covered it pretty thoroughly. The trigger improvement in each of my CZ75b's is very substantial, and I'm more than satisfied with the MCARBO CZ75b kits.
As of today, there are eleven 5 star reviews on this CZ75 kit at their website. Go read them if you have any interest in substantially improving your trigger feel.
(https://i.imgur.com/6Kr8PNl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/V8JHrXj.jpg)
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So anyway, once I get the sear back in and try everything it should function without a problem. I don't think I'll do the PCR though, however I would love a long slide and barrel for the 75BD.
Did you get your trigger bar support spring in place and verify it's correct?
Yeah, I readjusted it to make sure, the left side was actually riding below the trigger bar against the frame. Funny considering this was the first time I've taken the gun down this far.
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So anyway, once I get the sear back in and try everything it should function without a problem. I don't think I'll do the PCR though, however I would love a long slide and barrel for the 75BD.
Did you get your trigger bar support spring in place and verify it's correct?
Yeah, I readjusted it to make sure, the left side was actually riding below the trigger bar against the frame. Funny considering this was the first time I've taken the gun down this far.
OK that's what it looked like and is consistent with those symptoms you mentioned. Great. Problem solved.
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Just to keep each install consistent, I ran another 200rds today with no problems. Each of the three installs had 400rds fired with no problems. The reused factory trigger pins are holding so far in the two installs, and my hunch is it they will hold just fine for the next several thousand rounds. The trigger in each of the three installs is almost as good as my Shadow Orange and my two Shadow 2's. that's my opinion and I will stick with it. Other forum members should not criticize or make comments on the kit unless they have actually installed the MCARBO kit in their own CZ75b's.
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Just to keep each install consistent, I ran another 200rds today with no problems. Each of the three installs had 400rds fired with no problems. The reused factory trigger pins are holding so far in the two installs, and my hunch is it they will hold just fine for the next several thousand rounds. The trigger in each of the three installs is almost as good as my Shadow Orange and my two Shadow 2's. that's my opinion and I will stick with it. Other forum members should not criticize or make comments on the kit unless they have actually installed the MCARBO kit in their own CZ75b's.
The MCARBO kit is a spring kit. Honestly that's it. It's no miracle that it would make your trigger pull lighter. The laws of physics dictate that that if you put lower tension springs under the hammer and firing pin block that you will get a lighter trigger pull. You could take the factory CZ hammer spring, cut 2 coils off and experience a similar result. So your results are not surprising. They are to be expected.
What you continue to (and in my opinion purposefully) overlook in your review:
1. The hammer spring - it is of unknown weight so if you are trying to tune your gun to your liking then you are unable to as MCARBO does not sell differing weights. This is sort of a one-and-done scenario. If it happens not to work with the modifications in your gun then you're out of luck.
2. When you work on the trigger you should replace the trigger pin. Your "hunch" that it'll be fine is just that. I have seen broken trigger pins before but certainly have seen many more broken trigger return springs. In order to service the trigger you need to remove the trigger pin. Even if you have the tools to re-flare it, no one recommends it because flaring it causes weakness. If these are range toys for you, you may do just fine on your hunch. I won't judge that. You can feel free to do that.
However some people carry these guns for self defense. Other people compete with these guns. I would recommend that those 2 categories of people absolutely replace the trigger pin with a floating pin. It's $13. I have seen someone with a broken trigger return spring (and no ability to remove his factory trigger pin) at a match. He tied the trigger to the trigger guard with a rubber band in order to shoot the gun. I bet he wished he had that $13 pin that day. Plenty of us had spare trigger return springs to lend him.
3. Use a starter punch. You saw yourself what damage and trouble you can get into without the proper tools. I've damaged one of my guns as well and learned my lesson. So I tell as many people as possible to prevent them from making the same mistake. Instead you continue to review this MCARBO kit and ignore the problems you've had with the spring install.
While MCARBO does not claim to replace the trigger pin, there is no disclaimer or recommendation that someone should...nor a disclaimer or recommendation that one should use a proper starter punch. They should state that with their spring kit: that there are tools necessary for a proper installation. If they don't, whoever reviews this kit should state that so that others don't get into the same trouble you did.
A bunch of us told you these things and you ignored our recommendations. We didn't do it to criticize you. We did it because we have experienced these problems before and didn't want to see you experience them as well....and then you had your problems. 1 out of 3 guns isn't too bad but it's not too great either.
So I'll be frank here.
I appreciate your review of the kit and the pictures of the range testing. That's effort and not enough people do that.
From your insistence or stubbornness to heed people's advice I wonder if there is some sort of relationship between you and MCARBO...though I could care less of the conspiracy theories. Maybe you just don't like taking advice I dunno.
I have modified many CZ's. I have learned a lot from people on the forum. I appreciate when people explain their reasoning. I have tuned many CZ's and have played with differing spring tensions. What makes a good trigger is not simply a hammer spring and a firing pin block spring. I have worked several guns with triggers under 2 pounds and they are terrible. I have many guns with triggers in the 2 pound range which are incredible. A hammer spring and firing pin block spring only gets you partway to a really nice trigger (if that's what you're looking for).
Shadow Orange and Shadow 2's - These are not simply lightened springs. They have different hammers which drastically change the trigger feel. If you're just talking about trigger weight, then sure you can drop your CZ weights as low as you want. Unless you change the hammers on the 3 guns you installed the MCARBO kit on I highly doubt you are getting the same quality of trigger.
I have played with many CGW Race Hammers and Ring hammers. S2 hammers, two CZC competition hammers and they far outperform the stock hammers.
That may be personal feel but to me it's pretty obvious side by side.
Anyway good luck with your guns. I hope they treat you well and you enjoy your kits. End of the day we are all gun owners who like to play with our toys. No need to get worked up about this stuff.
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Just to keep each install consistent, I ran another 200rds today with no problems. Each of the three installs had 400rds fired with no problems. The reused factory trigger pins are holding so far in the two installs, and my hunch is it they will hold just fine for the next several thousand rounds. The trigger in each of the three installs is almost as good as my Shadow Orange and my two Shadow 2's. that's my opinion and I will stick with it. Other forum members should not criticize or make comments on the kit unless they have actually installed the MCARBO kit in their own CZ75b's.
Thanks for a coherent reply. Your points are valid, but I'm not exaggerating the trigger comparison with my Shadow Orange and Shadow 2's, it's pretty close. The only accuracy difference is in the sights, and not the trigger, IMO. Also, I have absolutely no affiliation with this company at all. I'm just really impressed with what this kit did to my stock CZ75's, that's all and nothing more. The tools needed to do the job are really not part of this review. There's a learning curve for any type of gunsmith work.
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For clarification sake:
The floating trigger pin is a necessary part, not a tool. You would want one on every gun you plan on doing trigger mods to.
The starter punch is a necessary tool. You only need one.
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CZ 75b + MCARBO = Shadow Orange?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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CZ 75b + MCARBO = Shadow Orange?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's not what I meant. The Shadow Orange is a superior build all around. Now throw in a CGW barrel bushing and a good front fiber optic sight, and I'll bet the accuracy would be on par with my Orange. So, for <$200, you can turn a plain Jane CZ75b into a very nice Shadow like comparable, in most cases. My last install needed the trigger bar spring adjusted, the other two did not.
My CZ Custom built polished stainless CZ75b cost $1250 (sold it because of the loose slide to frame fit and excessive trigger pre-travel). The two stainless 75's I have now have a comparable trigger, with half the pretravel, cleaner machining and tighter fitment than the CZC gun. Luck of the draw sometimes.
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Someone just posted a Youtube video on the MCARBO 75 kit on two of his decocker models and does a comparison to two other Omega (I think) handguns that have CGW parts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSa0ah7EoSg
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Such negativity in here over new products for the CZ 75. If someone bought the product and they're happy with the results, why try to convince them that they'd have been better off with a more expensive alternative at a higher cost? If you don't have anything good to say...
I remember when "the Angus hammer" was relatively "unproven" and when a guy from Louisiana began selling his "unproven" parts. MCarbo parts for the CZ may not have a lot of time behind them, but it's not MCarbo's first rodeo.
MCarbo is offering a handful of parts for $23 shipped. Do you know what $23 shipped gets me at CGW? A trigger pin, shipping, and $2 to spare.
Perhaps MCarbo will start selling a trigger pin, I know they're already looking at CZ triggers...
Anyhow, I'm happy with my $23 bag of MCarbo parts. I'm also happy with my CZ UB parts, CZC parts, CGW parts, and RCtech parts. The more offerings, the better.
I don't think negatively is the right word. None of us here are bashing MCARBO.
The appeal of this kit is price so it's totally appropriate to discuss the associated costs with modifying the trigger properly. Not doing so and touting only the cost benefit of the actual parts of this kit would be deceptive.
I do this because when I started with CZ's early in I had to learn a lot quickly and I paid more because I didn't have the right information.
Here ia what I learned:
1. Modifying these guns is expensive but the potential gains are incredible. When complete these guns are by far the best handguns I own.
2. Always use a floating trigger pin. You shouldn't reuse the flared pin
3. Buy a starter pin to remove the factory flare. Normal punches aren't as effective and you risk damaging parts.
4. Replace the firing pin retaining pin with a hardened one.
5. Use an O-ring to dry fire.
I'm sure there are more.
So let's discuss MCARBO specifically. I think it's great they offer parts. I don't think they understand the market. I think they offer a kit that is competitively priced yet overlook that other parts are necessary to complete the install. I suggest they make a floating trigger pin and offer a starter punch for sale with their kit.
This would be analogous to the discount motor oil example. Whoever sells discount motor oil should realize that at some point they should offer oil filters too... Because the two sort of go hand-in-hand and any cost saving on discount motor oil is negated by using multiple vendors and paying shipping etc.
For the consumer : I think it's the right thing to do to have these discussions and provide people with all the information needed to modify these guns.
When I started modifying my CZ's I didn't buy a starter punch and didn't buy a floating trigger pin. As soon as I sat down to disassemble the gun I struggled with the pin. I realized instantly that I couldn't use it again. Guess what. I had to go buy one and pay shipping costs a second time and wait a few days for it to arrive. I also picked up a starter punch. That cost me more money and more hassle. It was a learning experience.
You can call the mention of this "negativity" but my intention is really to inform others of what is really necessary when you make these changes.
for someone new to CZ and thinking about how to improve the disappointing DA pull of my new (to me) P-01, but a little intimidated about taking any gun down farther than a field strip for the first time, this is one of the most useful and educational posts in this debate about a particular product.
for me, the learning is less about the product itself and more about the discussion.
thank you
Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
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Took the second polished stainless to the range today and ran 200rds of American Eagle with no problems. This handgun has 600rds fired so far with the MCARBO kit. My other stainless 75 has 800rds fired with no problems. I'll be back at the range with this one for another 200rds this week.
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Just to keep each install consistent, I ran another 200rds today with no problems. Each of the three installs had 400rds fired with no problems. The reused factory trigger pins are holding so far in the two installs, and my hunch is it they will hold just fine for the next several thousand rounds. The trigger in each of the three installs is almost as good as my Shadow Orange and my two Shadow 2's. that's my opinion and I will stick with it. Other forum members should not criticize or make comments on the kit unless they have actually installed the MCARBO kit in their own CZ75b's.
The MCARBO kit is a spring kit. Honestly that's it. It's no miracle that it would make your trigger pull lighter. The laws of physics dictate that that if you put lower tension springs under the hammer and firing pin block that you will get a lighter trigger pull. You could take the factory CZ hammer spring, cut 2 coils off and experience a similar result. So your results are not surprising. They are to be expected.
What you continue to (and in my opinion purposefully) overlook in your review:
1. The hammer spring - it is of unknown weight so if you are trying to tune your gun to your liking then you are unable to as MCARBO does not sell differing weights. This is sort of a one-and-done scenario. If it happens not to work with the modifications in your gun then you're out of luck.
2. When you work on the trigger you should replace the trigger pin. Your "hunch" that it'll be fine is just that. I have seen broken trigger pins before but certainly have seen many more broken trigger return springs. In order to service the trigger you need to remove the trigger pin. Even if you have the tools to re-flare it, no one recommends it because flaring it causes weakness. If these are range toys for you, you may do just fine on your hunch. I won't judge that. You can feel free to do that.
However some people carry these guns for self defense. Other people compete with these guns. I would recommend that those 2 categories of people absolutely replace the trigger pin with a floating pin. It's $13. I have seen someone with a broken trigger return spring (and no ability to remove his factory trigger pin) at a match. He tied the trigger to the trigger guard with a rubber band in order to shoot the gun. I bet he wished he had that $13 pin that day. Plenty of us had spare trigger return springs to lend him.
3. Use a starter punch. You saw yourself what damage and trouble you can get into without the proper tools. I've damaged one of my guns as well and learned my lesson. So I tell as many people as possible to prevent them from making the same mistake. Instead you continue to review this MCARBO kit and ignore the problems you've had with the spring install.
While MCARBO does not claim to replace the trigger pin, there is no disclaimer or recommendation that someone should...nor a disclaimer or recommendation that one should use a proper starter punch. They should state that with their spring kit: that there are tools necessary for a proper installation. If they don't, whoever reviews this kit should state that so that others don't get into the same trouble you did.
A bunch of us told you these things and you ignored our recommendations. We didn't do it to criticize you. We did it because we have experienced these problems before and didn't want to see you experience them as well....and then you had your problems. 1 out of 3 guns isn't too bad but it's not too great either.
So I'll be frank here.
I appreciate your review of the kit and the pictures of the range testing. That's effort and not enough people do that.
From your insistence or stubbornness to heed people's advice I wonder if there is some sort of relationship between you and MCARBO...though I could care less of the conspiracy theories. Maybe you just don't like taking advice I dunno.
I have modified many CZ's. I have learned a lot from people on the forum. I appreciate when people explain their reasoning. I have tuned many CZ's and have played with differing spring tensions. What makes a good trigger is not simply a hammer spring and a firing pin block spring. I have worked several guns with triggers under 2 pounds and they are terrible. I have many guns with triggers in the 2 pound range which are incredible. A hammer spring and firing pin block spring only gets you partway to a really nice trigger (if that's what you're looking for).
Shadow Orange and Shadow 2's - These are not simply lightened springs. They have different hammers which drastically change the trigger feel. If you're just talking about trigger weight, then sure you can drop your CZ weights as low as you want. Unless you change the hammers on the 3 guns you installed the MCARBO kit on I highly doubt you are getting the same quality of trigger.
I have played with many CGW Race Hammers and Ring hammers. S2 hammers, two CZC competition hammers and they far outperform the stock hammers.
That may be personal feel but to me it's pretty obvious side by side.
Anyway good luck with your guns. I hope they treat you well and you enjoy your kits. End of the day we are all gun owners who like to play with our toys. No need to get worked up about this stuff.
Many valid and true points here. I still want to know the weight of that bleep hammer spring and they guard that like some KFC 7 spices formula or something. I will say their customer service was great, however I'll probably go back to CGW springs because at least there is data on those springs. Does the MCarbo work? yes. Is it tune-able? Nope, is it easier or harder than any other spring kit? nope, Does it cost less? by pennies.
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Back from the range today after running another 200rds through stainless #2. Total of 800rds through this one with the reused factory trigger pin (no movement). All primer strikes still look fine with no malfunctions. Next week will be the plain Jane black 75 for another 400rds. I'm running theses through the paces because of the three new Dawson fiber optic sights that I recently installed in my MCARBO 75's. So far, I'm very happy with the new front sights and the excellent triggers.
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Full disclosure update. This afternoon, I was cleaning stainless #2 from this weeks two range visits, and just for the hell of it, I pushed on the trigger return spring pin with a pick and it moved more easily than I'm comfortable with. After 800rds fired, it was/is holding in place just fine, as the other one on my other 75 is too, but this ease of movement today didn't agree with me. So off to the basement where the concrete foundation wall and ledge is perfect to hold pressure against one of the two punches to re-flare the factory pin. The wife assisted me with holding the frame steady. After two whacks, I checked to see if it was flared enough, and it wasn't.
Bottom line, I'm sure I could have gotten this pin flared, but I decided to order two CGW floating pins, just in case I ever have to remove the pin again. I agree that the MCARBO kit should include a new trigger return spring pin, but I won't give in and say it should include a stater punch or a hammer. All three of my 75's will now have a CGW floating pin. I'm an agreeable guy... :)
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Ran another 200rds through the black CZ75b with no issues associated with the MCARBO kit. The trigger pin still has no movement, but that will be replaced with a CGW pin later this week. There are now 15 five star reviews on the CZ75 MCARBO kit, if anyone is interested.
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Back to the range today with another 200rds and zero malfunctions. I'm losing track of all the rounds fired through each of the three 75's (old age). I think I now have (post MCARBO) 800rds through two of them and 1000rds on the other. The MCARBO kit and Dawson fiber optic sight make a great combination IMO. One of the targets from today set at 10yds and fairly rapid fire:
(https://i.imgur.com/GnSo9DR.jpg)
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Installed the CGW floating trigger pin in the other two 75s that had the reused factory pin. Easy install, just pushed out the old pin with the new pin. It took maybe five seconds for each one. All three of my 75's now have the MCARBO kit, Dawson .125 wide front fiber optic and the CGW floating trigger pin. For ~$80 in upgades for each one, all three are now super shooters.... :) BTW, there are now 17 five star MCARBO kit CZ75 reviews.
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There's a new Youtube video comparing CGW, MCARBO and Apex spring kits. Longer video, but pretty much an objective review IMO. BTW, I'm waiting for my fourth CZ 75b MCARBO kit, but currently on back order. They had 20% off for the holiday. Here's a link to the review:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4dWMIAi0rY
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Finally received my 4th CZ75b MCARBO kit that was on back order. Installation went very well, and a new 1/16" starter punch worked perfectly to start moving that stubborn trigger pin. I did install a new CGW floating pin. This MCARBO kit was for another polished stainless 75b that I recently picked up.
During spring change intervals, I reassembled the pistol to feel how the trigger felt. The first check was after the firing pin spring and safety retention spring, along with the hammer spring. Noticeable difference in both SA and DA, but nothing alarming. Next was the trigger return spring, and that had a larger noticeable difference.
The only spring left changing was the sear spring, which I haven't installed yet because I'm not sure I want the trigger any lighter than what it is now. I'm measuring an average of 3.0-3.1 in SA without the lighter sear spring, crisp and smooth. I didn't measure the DA, but it feels really close to my other 75b at 7.5ish. The other 75b with all the springs installed gave me a average SA pull at about 2.7-2.8.
I think I'm going to leave it without changing the sear spring.
I'll be at the range next week to make sure I have reliable ignition like my other 75's do with the MCARBO kit. I'll update after the range.
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Went to the range today with the 4th installed MCARBO kit. On this install, I didn't install the lighter sear spring because the trigger pull was just fine on this 75b with the factory sear spring left in. All 250rds of Federal CCI 115gr fired perfectly. BTW, there are now 23 five star reviews on this trigger kit at the MCARBO website. A couple of targets from today at 10yds:
(https://i.imgur.com/aCkpCnC.jpg)
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Maybe my last entry in this thread... 8). The second range visit this week with stainless CZ75b #3 and the 4th MCARBO kit went well. Ran 250rds of Blazer 115gr with no misfires or malfunctions. All told, that's a couple thousand rounds spread over four CZ75's with zero problems, so I think that speaks for itself. Oh, 28 great review ratings at their website as of today, so it's not just me. Target from today at 10yds, rapid fire:
(https://i.imgur.com/fLeIC5h.jpg)
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One last trip to the range with stainless #3 and 250rds fired. I was starting to shoot low occasionally, so I wanted to rule out the Dawson FO sight I installed as the culprit. I shot from a makeshift rest using my pistol carrier box as a rest, and the Dawson sight is right on target (.130 tall after sanding base to fit in slide). I guess I developed a flinch now, to be continued. BTW, 45 excellent reviews now on the MCARBO CZ75b trigger kit: https://www.mcarbo.com/store/ProductReviews.aspx?ProductID=336
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Wow, 49 excellent reviews. I won't keep updating based on reviews, but I knew this was going to happen. Maybe some of the forum members will accept another good supplier, maybe.
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If this kit works for you and you are happy with your results what the other guys on here think should have no bearing.
The fact that they will come out against this product is typical for internet forums.
There is a certain company that has done a masterful job of marketing to the CZ owner and has made their product a sought after status symbol.
They have even coined a nickname for a CZ with their brand of improvement and now everyone thinks they want that for them selves.
America is a great country when this thing works for a company, it is what I would wish for my company if I were to have one in this industry. Its brilliant actually.
For the poor souls who believe that a new or less costly option cant be as good or will not work that is their prerogative. If what they say worries you or makes you feel
like you have to justify to them your results, that is truly too bad.
I have a gun that is " cute catch phrase ized" and it is a very good improvement and is what is promised. I also have a few other guns (CZ's) done by a few other places that are close, most are indistinguishable from the one that is all the rage, and I have one done elsewhere that is the best job ever. Maybe I got lucky but no other I have compares and it is from a guy in Arkansas and it was over 100 less. Good for me. I am going to buy a couple spring kits from MCARBO for the few CZ's I have still stock. I am sure I will be very happy with them, it appears you are. Thank you for your diligence and constant updating. But what I think should not matter to you or change your results because you know what is happening to your guns. If you are happy that's the end game.
now keep practicing, it looks like you could use a little more range time and maybe a little less bench time...…….opps a new can of worms sorry.
RCG
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New can of worms, nah. I'm happy with 3"-5" groupings from 10-15yds, good enough to become an NRA pistol instructor. I don't know where all these average great shooters are that have much better results. I haven't seen them at the range, and I usually go every week or two. In the last 5 years, I saw two shooters that were capable of 2" or less groups at 10yds. This is at the indoor range that has 22 stalls. Standing two hand hold with iron sights. Heck, even on Youtube, the experts don't shoot much better except for a few like Hickock45. That's been my experience, so new can of worms, nah.
Edit: I forgot to mention that EVERY poster on the gun forums averages 1-2" groups from 15 yards except me... :(
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Once again if you are happy with your results be happy with them.
You don't have to justify them to me. You sure seem to know a lot about what other people's ability's are.
Hitting a 8X11 piece of paper at 10 yards is commendable. You seem to be very proficient at it.
Keep up the great shooting.
RCG
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I just noticed that MCARBO is now selling a floating trigger pin for $12.95. Both items can be placed on the same order to reduce shipping costs.
https://www.mcarbo.com/cz-75-floating-trigger-pin.aspx
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I picked up a used CZ75b a few months ago and wanted to do some trigger work on it.
I looked at CGW'w site but also found the MCARBO site and since their spring kit was so cheap, I figured I would give it a try.
The worst that could happen was that it would suck and I would have to put the original parts back in.
Well, I did the installation and all went well. Both SA and DA were improved, but I had a problem with the trigger reset. I would have to manually nudge the trigger forward before I could fire another round.
I called MCARBO and told them what was happening, and they told me exactly what was wrong and corrected the problem by adjusting the spring that rides on the bottom of the trigger bar.
The SA pull is now 2lbs 18 oz, but what really surprised me was the DA. It checks in right at 6lbs. Thats better than the DA on my Shadow 2!
I took it to the range and put 150 rounds of 115gr FMJ through it. Everything works reliably with no FTF's or any other problems.
So far, I am impressed by the product and the support that MCARBO provided.
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That's great and getting good results is awesome as well.
Thank you!
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Has anyone installed this kit in the CZ75 SP01 Phantom yet, I just got my gun today after work. I have their kits in three other guns and they seem to work great.
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Mcarbo added two new installation videos; one is for CZ75 decocking models, and the other is for installation of their floating trigger pin.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyBMk3-LWuE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2UcncCFQDs
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I've got an SP01 and PCR with CGW installed pro kits. I've also got a 97BD in which I installed a CGW pro kit after doing a good polish job. Love them all. I also have a stock P01 that I decided to revamp. All the internals are polished and I was going to just order another CGW pro package but decided instead to try the $30 spring package from MCARBO this time around and keep everything else stock just to see what happens vs the CGW pro packages (well almost everything - gonna order a SS guide rod from CGW). I'll post my results.
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Mcarbo added two new installation videos; one is for CZ75 decocking models, and the other is for installation of their floating trigger pin.
I wish that he had mentioned using a starter punch for the factory trigger pin removal. I have seen a number of folks really get themselves into trouble using a standard punch on that pin.
It is made of Ax heads! ;D
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Mcarbo added two new installation videos; one is for CZ75 decocking models, and the other is for installation of their floating trigger pin.
I wish that he had mentioned using a starter punch for the factory trigger pin removal. I have seen a number of folks really get themselves into trouble using a standard punch on that pin.
It is made of Ax heads! ;D
I noticed that too. Pretty big omission. Otherwise his videos are very well done.
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The starter punch is a definite plus. I installed 3 kits without one, but the 3rd install went downhill quickly when my roll pin punch got stuck in the hole and a gunsmith had to remove it. My 4th install went fine using a starter punch... :) Looking back, I guess I got lucky with the first two installs not using a starter punch.
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Other than some back-and-forth bickering this was a great thread. I appreciate all the companies discussed here and they all make great products. I installed the MCARBO 75B trigger spring kit in my 1994 75 Transitional along with their trigger pin and I’m more than pleased. It’s really nice for a workin man with kids to be able to get great products at a great price too so shout out to MCARBO.
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I just bought 2 of them and put one in a Tri Star S120.
Oh my, those springs work. I will do a little polishing, maybe, but man the difference is really unbelievable.
Anyone who thinks these don't work or are not a good investment, you are free to think that, especially if you have not
used it or put one in and just don't think it. I was a skeptic but thought for 20 bucks I got zero to lose.
I did just that.....I lost zero and gained a way better trigger on a gun I will enjoy shooting a lot now.
Still have to put the decocker one in my P-01 but I am pretty sure if it is anything like the other kit I will be greatly pleased.
RCG
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I just bought 2 of them and put one in a Tri Star S120.
Oh my, those springs work. I will do a little polishing, maybe, but man the difference is really unbelievable.
Anyone who thinks these don't work or are not a good investment, you are free to think that, especially if you have not
used it or put one in and just don't think it. I was a skeptic but thought for 20 bucks I got zero to lose.
I did just that.....I lost zero and gained a way better trigger on a gun I will enjoy shooting a lot now.
Still have to put the decocker one in my P-01 but I am pretty sure if it is anything like the other kit I will be greatly pleased.
RCG
Good to hear the kit transformed your S120. There is a new MCARBO video on installing the kit in decocker models that should help.
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They now have a trigger spring kit for the Shadow 1 and Shadow 2:
https://www.mcarbo.com/cz-shadow-1-shadow-2-trigger-spring-kit.aspx
My stock Shadow triggers are just fine for me since I don't shoot in DA, but for those who want a reduced DA pull for their Shadow models, this kit is probably perfect for them.
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I own an SP01 with a CGW pro package, PCR with CGW pro package and a CZ97BD with a CGW pro package. For my P01, I decided to just try the MCarbo spring kit and compare it with my CGW CZs. I polished the P01's internals and installed the MCarbo parts. Unfortunately, I didn't have a trigger gauge prior to polishing the internals so I can't give before and after trigger pull figures but did end up with a 5lb 4oz DA and 2lb 3oz SA (avg of 10 pulls each), which are comparable with my CGW CZs and slightly better than my PCR. Nice! The actions on the CGW CZs are still nicer, but that'ts to be expected with new hammers and short reach triggers, etc. But for the money, the MCarbo kit seems to be a great value. I only have 2 knocks on the kit: 1) the slave pin for the sear cage isn't long enough if you want to use it to completely remove the cage - that was too bad but luckily I had one from CGW (but you don't have to completely remove the cage to install the MCarbo kit so I get it) and 2) the main spring is longer than the CGW spring of the same weight and a bit more fiddly to install. Minor gripes really. I'm glad I tried the kit and think it'd be fun to do a combo MCarbo kit and CGW kit (MCarbo kit along with its weaker sear spring and CGW parts including with weaker firing pin block lever spring, new hammer and short reach trigger CGW).
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If you are going to post anything about M*CARBO it should be this. ;D
Edit: This video has been redacted, if you would like to see an amusing video go to M*CARBO's Youtube channel and look for the Duel Wielding thumbnail.
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Tok36, that's a mater of opinion. I don't see the relevance to this thread.
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If you are going to post anything about M*CARBO it should be this. ;D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjhqMHtqKEw
Hahahahaha Hahahaha!
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Tok36, that's a mater of opinion. I don't see the relevance to this thread.
Alright, you got me. I guess i just find Dual Wielding too amusing and sometimes it clouds my brain.
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Tok36, that's a mater of opinion. I don't see the relevance to this thread.
Alright, you got me. I guess i just find Dual Wielding too amusing sometimes and i clouds my brain.
Please stay tuned . . .while we return to the previously scheduled shilling. ::)
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Tok36, that's a mater of opinion. I don't see the relevance to this thread.
Alright, you got me. I guess i just find Dual Wielding too amusing sometimes and it clouds my brain.
Funny video. I’d love to shoot some twin-mills.
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If you are going to post anything about M*CARBO it should be this. ;D
Hahahahaha Hahahaha!
Actually I've got this done accidentally on my P-01 using CGW parts... :P :-X
Replaced disconnector to factory one and all went back to normal....
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If you are going to post anything about M*CARBO it should be this. ;D
Hahahahaha Hahahaha!
Actually I've got this done accidentally on my P-01 using CGW parts... :P :-X
Replaced disconnector to factory one and all went back to normal....
WHOA! Nice, glad you got it back to legal.
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New video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NieCvNqN594
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I am curious who is using Extra power recoil springs and for what purpose. To my knowledge the CZ factory recoil springs are tuned for NATO ammo witch is generally good for +P loads. I have heard of increasing the weight of many of the different springs in a CZ 75 variant but not the recoil spring. I wonder what set up folks are using them for. Seams like people are usually going the other direction with the recoil spring.
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I am curious who is using Extra power recoil springs and for what purpose. To my knowledge the CZ factory recoil springs are tuned for NATO ammo witch is generally good for +P loads. I have heard of increasing the weight of many of the different springs in a CZ 75 variant but not the recoil spring. I wonder what set up folks are using them for. Seams like people are usually going the other direction with the recoil spring.
Oh you haven’t heard about the 9mm micro grenade loads...the +G load? ;D
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I am curious who is using Extra power recoil springs and for what purpose. To my knowledge the CZ factory recoil springs are tuned for NATO ammo witch is generally good for +P loads. I have heard of increasing the weight of many of the different springs in a CZ 75 variant but not the recoil spring. I wonder what set up folks are using them for. Seams like people are usually going the other direction with the recoil spring.
Oh you haven’t heard about the 9mm micro grenade loads...the +G load? ;D
Well i have now..... +G Big Dog Woooof!! ;D
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After being shut in for the past two months, I went to the range today. I took the 3rd CZ758 polished stainless handgun that has the 4th MCARBO kit installed and Dawson FO front sight. I was impressed with the results, and I'm convinced the MCARBO trigger kit combined with the Dawson .135H x .125W FO front sight with blacked out factory rear sight, contributed greatly. I'm in my upper 60's and wear progressive lens, right handed and left eye dominant.
(https://i.imgur.com/MPFwCUt.jpg)
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It's been a while, and the 200+ reviews are awesome. Again, I have no affiliation with this company.
https://www.mcarbo.com/store/ProductReviews.aspx?ProductID=336
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It's been a while, and the 200+ reviews are awesome. Again, I have no affiliation with this company.
https://www.mcarbo.com/store/ProductReviews.aspx?ProductID=336
Lol, why would anybody think that. ::)
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Just installed my kit in my P-01, except for the sear spring (might tackle that later.).
I followed their video, but not in same order. started with the hammer spring, and had some trouble with the mag guide afterwards when the magazine wouldn't drop free. Finally got the top attachment of the mag guide to seat properly and it worked fine.
struggled with the trigger spring for a while after it popped out and sent the alignment pin flying across the floor and never did find it. but that finally worked out.
But lastly, after I replaced the firing pin (FP) spring, FP block spring, and FP retaining pin, I now again have the problem with the mags not dropping free again. checked the mag guide again but no luck. what am I missing?
This seems like a stupid question because I don't see how, but do the weaker FP spring and/or FP block spring somehow reduce the force that ejects the magazine?
Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
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Just installed my kit in my P-01, except for the sear spring (might tackle that later.).
I followed their video, but not in same order. started with the hammer spring, and had some trouble with the mag guide afterwards when the magazine wouldn't drop free. Finally got the top attachment of the mag guide to seat properly and it worked fine.
struggled with the trigger spring for a while after it popped out and sent the alignment pin flying across the floor and never did find it. but that finally worked out.
But lastly, after I replaced the firing pin (FP) spring, FP block spring, and FP retaining pin, I now again have the problem with the mags not dropping free again. checked the mag guide again but no luck. what am I missing?
This seems like a stupid question because I don't see how, but do the weaker FP spring and/or FP block spring somehow reduce the force that ejects the magazine?
Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
Nope, the mag tube must be hanging up on something.
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Take your grips off and see if the mag drops freely.
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I agree with your assessment!
I’m new to CZs. Recently bought a Shadow 2 SA and was instantly hooked. sA trigger at 2lbs dead one with no creep or over travel.
So, I went and bought a P-01. Now, I’m not a DA/SA guy and really wanted the Omega. But, as you probably know they are scarce right now.
Anyways, I purchased the MCarbo kit for it and WOW. DA is at 6.5 from 10 kbs. SA is at 2.25 from 4.5lbs. Overall, such a huge improvement. So much, even this ole fat boy can hit the target on the first DA shot. First pistol I’ve ever been able to do that with. Such an awesome carry gun!
If anyone has any inclinations on going with MCarbo....do it!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201008/42e343db4e281ba711d7b36823cb3481.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I own an SP01 with a CGW pro package, PCR with CGW pro package and a CZ97BD with a CGW pro package. For my P01, I decided to just try the MCarbo spring kit and compare it with my CGW CZs. I polished the P01's internals and installed the MCarbo parts. Unfortunately, I didn't have a trigger gauge prior to polishing the internals so I can't give before and after trigger pull figures but did end up with a 5lb 4oz DA and 2lb 3oz SA (avg of 10 pulls each), which are comparable with my CGW CZs and slightly better than my PCR. Nice! The actions on the CGW CZs are still nicer, but that'ts to be expected with new hammers and short reach triggers, etc. But for the money, the MCarbo kit seems to be a great value. I only have 2 knocks on the kit: 1) the slave pin for the sear cage isn't long enough if you want to use it to completely remove the cage - that was too bad but luckily I had one from CGW (but you don't have to completely remove the cage to install the MCarbo kit so I get it) and 2) the main spring is longer than the CGW spring of the same weight and a bit more fiddly to install. Minor gripes really. I'm glad I tried the kit and think it'd be fun to do a combo MCarbo kit and CGW kit (MCarbo kit along with its weaker sear spring and CGW parts including with weaker firing pin block lever spring, new hammer and short reach trigger CGW).
Along with the Mcarbo kit, what other parts would someone recommend from CGW to help with smoother action? I am debating between the Mcarbo kit and the CGW kit or doing the Mcarbo spring kit with some CGW parts for my p01 and also for when my sp01 comes in.
thanks
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An email I received from Mcarbo:
Less than 6 hours left of Christmas Sale...Last one for 2020!
Use this 15% OFF coupon code at checkout: Merry Christmas Brotherhood
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I own an SP01 with a CGW pro package, PCR with CGW pro package and a CZ97BD with a CGW pro package. For my P01, I decided to just try the MCarbo spring kit and compare it with my CGW CZs. I polished the P01's internals and installed the MCarbo parts. Unfortunately, I didn't have a trigger gauge prior to polishing the internals so I can't give before and after trigger pull figures but did end up with a 5lb 4oz DA and 2lb 3oz SA (avg of 10 pulls each), which are comparable with my CGW CZs and slightly better than my PCR. Nice! The actions on the CGW CZs are still nicer, but that'ts to be expected with new hammers and short reach triggers, etc. But for the money, the MCarbo kit seems to be a great value. I only have 2 knocks on the kit: 1) the slave pin for the sear cage isn't long enough if you want to use it to completely remove the cage - that was too bad but luckily I had one from CGW (but you don't have to completely remove the cage to install the MCarbo kit so I get it) and 2) the main spring is longer than the CGW spring of the same weight and a bit more fiddly to install. Minor gripes really. I'm glad I tried the kit and think it'd be fun to do a combo MCarbo kit and CGW kit (MCarbo kit along with its weaker sear spring and CGW parts including with weaker firing pin block lever spring, new hammer and short reach trigger CGW).
Along with the Mcarbo kit, what other parts would someone recommend from CGW to help with smoother action? I am debating between the Mcarbo kit and the CGW kit or doing the Mcarbo spring kit with some CGW parts for my p01 and also for when my sp01 comes in.
thanks
Zeebo,
I have used the Mcarbo kit in my 75B Omega and the CGW Ultra-lite Kit in my SP-01 and 97B. I think I like the Ultra-lite kit better. It has a stronger firing pin included and gives me more confidence in safely dry firing them.
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Just bought a Sp-01 tactical and didn’t really think I would get into gunsmith work but here I am. I bought the Macarbo kit just to get my feet wet based on a few reviews and price and it definitely has reduced the trigger pull very noticeably. I didn’t fool with the sear cage because while I was waiting for my kit to come in the mail I began to read all the great things about CJW. I’m going to wind up getting their tune kit and swap all the parts out with theirs. I’ve already swapped out my guide rod, recoil spring and put in the old style trigger.
The Mcarbo video was excellent and I am very happy with the trigger pull after I put in the kit.
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I just installed the Mcarbo kit in my new PCR minus the sear spring. It reduced the DA to a more manageable pull and I don’t want the SA to be any lighter. I didn’t install the sear spring because I don’t understand enough about what effect it has on performance vs reliability and now that I have done it, I feel like it is right where I want it to be for a carry gun. I may get the CGW ultra light kit to compare just because I am curious but it is good to go as-is.
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I recently (2 months ago??) ordered three Mcarbo spring kits for non-CZ pistols.
Installed the first one in my 1.0 M&P 9MM. At the same time I also installed an Apex trigger (just the trigger). This old frame has a brand new PC 5" slide kit on it. By the way, the ported barrel/slide really does reduce muzzle rise. I was sort of "iffy" about that till I went to the range with it and noticed it all on my own while testing some loads.
When I took the slide apart I noticed the Mcarbo striker spring was longer than the factory striker spring. Hmm?? Figured maybe the Mcarbo spring was a smaller wire diameter or different metal, etc. I installed the Mcarbo firing pin block spring and striker spring and put the new M&P springs in the bag. Put the plates back on the slide and laid it over to the side of the "work" towel.
Then I took the frame parts out, installed the new Apex trigger on the trigger bar. Put the sear spring in and the trigger return spring and put it all back together. By the way, the flat ended slave pin supplied with the Mcarbo spring kit to help with the trigger return spring makes for a very aggravating install. Multiple attempts to get the trigger/spring back in place with failure after failure. I noticed the Apex slave pin, which is rounded on one end, in the Apex bag and grabbed it and got the trigger/spring back in on the first attempt. That rounded end on the Apex slave pin helps the pin slide out (as the trigger pin it pushed into the frame) without hanging up on the wire of the trigger return spring. Toss the flat ended Mcarbo slave pin and use an Apex slave pin, or spend some time rounding off one end of the Mcarbo slave pin, or prepare for frustration.
Anyway, all back together, pencil test showed good striker contact (no timing issue with the striker impacting the striker block on it's way to the primer). Then I put the trigger pull gauge on it. Wow. Not a good wow. Trigger pull was heavier than with the stock parts. Nice and crisp, but heavier.
Then, remembering the Mcarbo striker spring was longer than the factory spring I took the slide apart again and re-installed the factory striker spring and dropped the trigger pull by 1/4 lb.
As it stands I've got a nice crisp trigger pull but no where near what my Apex M&P trigger kits gave me on the 2.0 M&Ps.
I have not gotten around to installing the other two Mcarbo spring kits in the non-CZ pistols.
I'll admit, right now, I did not spend the time with the dremel polishing all the parts the Mcarbo videos show them polishing prior to reinstalling them. The frame already had the Apex hard sear in it and that part didn't need polishing. I did not polish the "dog leg" on the striker where it contacts the sear. The PC striker block bottom came radiused and polished (looked like an Apex ultimate striker block I'd installed in the other 1.0 M&P).
I know, not a CZ, not a hammer fired gun, but just my experiences with one of three kits I bought.
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Thanks for sharing that. I ordered another kit for my Baretta 92FS so we’ll see how that goes. I have the old Apex kit in my wife’s MP Shield which is her main carry gun. Never a problem.
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It's coming up on two years now, and my four Mcarbo CZ75b installs are all running like purring kittens. My trigger pulls are ~3# in SA and 7.7-8.0# in DA. Thousands of rounds have been fired with zero issues.
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FWIW I haven’t done any polishing yet.
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Good to hear.
Sent from my LM-Q720 using Tapatalk
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I have had nothing but good experiences with the kits I've ordered as well.
Made a lot of very good shooting guns easier to get the most from them.
RCG
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I'm glad others have had good luck with Mcarbo, but my experience with them has been less than impressive. The first "kit" I ordered from them was one for the Ruger Camp 9, which I see they no longer offer. The instructions were good, but it did absolutely nothing for it. Zip, nada. I did some polishing while it was apart which did make it smoother. Second was the Ruger LCP kit with the flat trigger too. I consistently got light primer strikes and the trigger return spring was so light that I had to physically push the trigger forward after firing. And yes, I polished just about everything I could while it was apart. Put the stock return and hammer spring back in and it runs fine. Smoother with a 3/4 lb. less pull weight.
A couple months ago I ordered their kit for my 75BD project, more out of curiosity and laziness than anything else. Before installation my DA pull was over my gauge's 8 lb. max and SA was just under 5 ib.s. I polished the snot out of everything, including the inside of the frame. After installing everything provided by Mcarbo, the DA is still over 8 lb.s (but smooth because of all the polishing!) and SA dropped to
4 1/4 lb.s. Needless to say, I was disappointed.
I must be a glutton for punishment because I've been looking at their Mini 14 sear spring, mainly because I haven't seen anything else out there for it.
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New update with Wheeler digital trigger pull readings. I can only give the readings after the kits were installed since I did not have this Wheeler gauge prior to Mcarbo kit installations. All readings are an average of 10 pulls.
2016 standard full size CZ75b SA 2#13.2oz DA 6#12.2oz (about 3,000 rounds fired)
2018 polished stainless 75b SA 3#0.00oz. DA 6#13.8oz
2019 polished stainless 75b SA 2#15.6oz DA 7#1.7oz
2019 polished stainless 75b SA 3# 5.6oz DA 7#7.0oz (this one has the factory sear spring)
If there wasn't a bit of hammer cam, these numbers compare very favorably with my Shadow 2 and Shadow 2 Orange, despite what Earl thinks... :)
stock Shadow 2............ SA 3#2.5oz DA 8#13.2oz
stock Shadow 2 Orange SA 2#13.7oz DA 8#7.4oz
I do have a new CZ75b retro that is factory stock and the SA was 4#11.7oz and DA 9#6.8oz.
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Ran at least another thousand rounds through my Mcarbo 75s since the last post, and all of them are still performing better than ever.
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Ran at least another thousand rounds through my Mcarbo 75s since the last post, and all of them are still performing better than ever.
Thanks for the updates, I just installed the MCARBO kit I don't have a trigger gauge but I do feel the trigger being smoother :) I haven't shot it yet but I'm expecting my groups to be at least a tiny bit tighter ;D
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Eight months after the last post, and this Mcarbo 75 spring kit still has outstanding reviews with no failures. All five of my kit installs have had no problems to date. I have NO affiliation with this company other than using the product.
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After reading the 95% positive reviews and watching what may be the best installation video of CZ parts (or any other firearm product) from Mcarbo, I ordered the spring kit with a new trigger pin, and a stainless steel guide rod.
The video is detailed and inspires confidence in both the product and installation.
Glad to have found this topic here with real people reviews, not merely shills.
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Couple thousand rounds with the McCarbo spring kit, and guide rod. No problems.
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Another 5 months has passed with no problems or part failures with my five installs. I'm sorry, but I just have to post this because several experts on the forum had absolutely nothing good to say about this kit when it first came out, especially with the new sear spring. I'll still say today, this kit was the best money I ever spent on my 75s. There are close to 500 very positive reviews posted at the Mcarbo site on this product. I HAVE NO AFFILIATION WITH THIS COMPANY, other than using the product.
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As long as you are happy with the parts that's all that matters. I buy parts from places that I like and I'm happy with my results and could not care less what anyone else thinks.
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I've installed three M*CARBO CZ trigger spring kits on my 75b, P-01 Omega, and 97b with a 30% average reduction in DA and SA pull. While installing, I did slight removal of machining marks and polishing on certain parts. No sear and hammer angles were altered. All are very smooth now in addition to the reduced trigger pull.
The installation videos are exceptional and make the process relatively easy though it will still take much longer than you might first think. You need a few additional basic tools like alignment pins, picks, and good bright lighting, along with patience.
You could send your gun out to different places to have this done for much more money and a long waiting period, but if you're willing to learn and take your time this is a pleasant way to spend an evening or two and learn how your CZ works.
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Waiting for their next sale/coupon code, missed out on the last one.
Someone I know has a matte stainless 75B to outfit.
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One year later and the MCARBO Kit has performed flawlessly. I will post another update once I break down the guns and report how the parts look and with data on number of trigger pulls.