The Original CZ Forum
GENERAL => CZ Gunsmithing => Topic started by: Underwhere on August 31, 2019, 12:45:53 AM
-
Here we go again!
I'm excited. I finally came to the decision to restore/chop my Semi-compact. I couldn't find anything else suitable on GunBroker so I'm moving forward.
I'm hoping to be as detailed as possible but this time make less mistakes. We'll see about that.
I can't help but build this gun the same way I've done my others. I'm open to suggestions! Please. I'm not creative.
The Plan for the frame and slide:
*Strip the frame -DONE
*Round the trigger guard -DONE
*Relieve the trigger guard -DONE
*Flush the slide stop lever -DONE
*Flush the guide rod -DONE
*Round the nose of the frame -DONE
*Countour the back of the gun so all surfaces mate up nicely -DONE
*flush and crown the barrel into the bushing -DONE
*Upsweep the beavertail and countour it -DONE
*Bevel the magwell -DONE
*Polish frame rails, contact points to prep for aftermarket parts -DONE
*Lightly polish the frame to bring it to a smooth surface -DONE
*Rust blue it -DONE
The plan for parts:
CGW Pro Kit with ring hammer
CGW recoil spring
CGW 10X barrel bushing
CGW EZ/D Sights
Grips - Walnut
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/9f31dec217516b6c60e8f237ab9a953d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/65e2ca88701f130d1402e1ed0f688418.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/4c19926d6e9ad3217b705a5de1e8b775.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/d347d112dc37c7734727368afce903c4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/8a8b460a48cdee702cc4b52ba9e0c8d1.jpg)
Finished Pics:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201201/8b0ae4690c3f9e4a0a3a7c9368a4258e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/1679675b86abbebd5c562ff6988247ce.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/3ef1efce71c2ac3def675b3cab4893b3.jpg)
-
Disassembly
Pieces on the Tupperware cover will be stripped and prepped for Bluing. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/457bf3ebbe31261a2caec4733f8178d8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/c941748ba23ae314fa8d4bd32752b421.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/829b30b63533214adfdb73d3c7325700.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/009d4893c5f62edbe145e8a6e26da9a0.jpg)
-
I can't help but mod so here we go.
Cutting a notch into the sear cage for the sear spring to sit for assembly and disassembly.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/30fd5334866e30049984ce69bc611ae0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/0172e57b779d0f19a2cafde96f9eb732.jpg)
-
And more mods. This time not a gun mod. Making a handle which will allow me to hold the gun without touching it.
I used a grip screw welded to a shaft and a piece of steel. This fits in my boiling pot so I don't need to remove it when boiling.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/210892af0b080325693492b99cf9887d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/7b5f0429519d901044ebdd8e177dcb6c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/2134f16f271d3182a9057c821faeec26.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/c66cbf09a51284fa46855e52ec214fad.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/498179f6424fc9888d86b7d1d608820f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/c2438c5b3100acecd4800e7a822e07c0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/864343e08297485379d3d5ad6589c075.jpg)
-
Stripping
And here it is going into stripper for a few days. The temps here are low 60's at night but during the day will get up to the 80's so I'm hopeful the solution is effective.
I have yet to order up the CGW parts but will need to remove the Bluing from the hammer and bushing so they all can match.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/cce992bc1ce9d24986cf1a13d83dda9a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/6e15e4ba4e285630f79e9106afeae20c.jpg)
-
Looking forward to seeing how this turns out.
-
Removal from Stripping
Workday #2
Wow I forgot how nasty this stuff is.
The stripper turned into a darker shade of orange after 2 days.
And opening up the top it literally makes your eyes water. This is some really potent stuff.
I threw on some nitrile gloves and it ate through it in literally 20 to 30 seconds.
I prepared a small water bath and even fresh gloves in the contaminated water dissolved in 20 to 30 seconds.
If you are planning on doing this at home one day please be careful.
It was very tricky getting stuff out and cleaning it off. I had to be very careful not to let this stuff splatter or get on my face or eyes (safety glasses necessary)
Most of the epoxy coating is off now. A little bit remains on the magwell and on the rib of the slide.
I actually don't think I needed to do the controls. That may have been a waste but oh well.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190902/00236369156c13319a96c81805b7333f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190902/0e4626c7ebd1a32b568e80c504dab8f5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190902/aa42e5371d26fefa15519c5eaa8ec0a8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190902/4ee4d3939506d5151bdabf3e11d84ffe.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190902/43bb17aa0bd432cefc17f6dac74c1180.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190902/0707aca713900df43e2d49ab698f9262.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190902/5a54f3664f36ec995ab42f1c67e9eb5c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190902/533c069532e1ddc7f52dae468be513db.jpg)
-
I bought some of the aircraft paint stripper in the spray cans several years ago. I was stripping some Z28 rims some body had painted white (the whole rim). I sprayed it on and let it sit, then got the hose/nozzle and started spraying it off. Next thing I know it feels like I'm getting stung by yellow jackets. I look down, not a bee in sight. I rubbed my shins and went back to spraying the rims. Bam! More multiple bee stings all over my shins. Then it hit me it was the stripper/paint splashing off the rims and back onto my legs.
Like you said. Potent stuff.
And even the spray on stripper I used for old GI wood stocks will eat up the latex rubber gloves in a hurry. Special gloves are needed for special stuff.
-
Here we go again! I am excited too! Thank you for sharing your project with us. Interesting stuff.
On another note, i just pictured M1A4ME with invisible bees attacking his shins. ;D
Today is shaping up pretty well so far.
-
Cleaning off the remaining epoxy. Surprise hole
Workday #3
I used a stainless steel wheel (or several different types) on a dremel to tackle the nooks and crannies as well as the rib on the slide.
Looks decent now.
There were spots of epoxy left over here and there and I had a heck of a time removing it with the wire wheel. Then it occurred to me just to use 220 grit and it took mere seconds.
Inside the mag area was still tough. I spent some time on that both with 220 then with the wire wheel. I think I'm OK now.
In the end I'm going to go over everything with 220 and then with 320 anyway.
Then I dropped it into Vaporust.
But there was a surprise that CZ gave to me. In the rear dovetail I noticed some epoxy that wouldn't come off. I held it up to the light and realized it's actually a hole and you can see the hammer pocket. Ha!
Friday gun? Maybe they milled out the dovetail just a hair too close.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/42d5d7ff191d0fdfd154fc4e68afcbe9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/ff711a684c05242979ee36adc27ba300.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/0451d261ce343bee844ae5faca4d9595.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/e6a5bfda0c83f26ed8c8ebf75bdcdc1e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/cb173d560bda11c86045c3278e3db17a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/8b0f4f49dd6f6653fcbfa6dfc21444ba.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/5e32d59d79d4ee5a023d13ec0a3e4a3d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/1f739d15dcadd684182d528654da6451.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/1ae8b96bfcf3f89bd3178e14fc76729c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/fc1317b3f3f77d7604a3e6c68fadf6ba.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/b09021b1e52a1fdfed22c1feb62e9cb3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/dc60406276fa56ed610f9c028a66de9d.jpg)
-
Looks like Fun ......
I like the Rust Blue Idea.... Which rust blue solution are you gonna use?
.
-
I had issues with Mark Lee express blue but I think that was all me. I may do it again.
The Laurel Mountain I pitted the frame but that was all me as well.
The express blue has less chance of me pitting the frame so I may go that route. This time I'm going to stop the slide early. I believe the slide darkens more than the frame.
-
The evaporust wasn't doing much after a few hours so I replaced with fresh solution. Much more yellow than orange.
I also messed around with my grasping tool... And decided I'd evaporust and blue it too. Why not.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/1ae9d2b59c1e2ff11abe656cc5179a48.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/92a7a8d5c3c795ea7f3dedcd346fefac.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/fc0bc744431a0bb2d7d5b78febc80c28.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/dfd0c6ca7dcea2f0e010e05a3d24bc34.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/f8bf9cbbc9f8deffaab9f8cbb8820765.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/b4290419317784829545af09721dca99.jpg)
-
I guess holes/bubbles are part of the casting process.
I removed a bit of metal from the bottom of the frame on my Pre B CZ85. I ran into what looked like rusty cracks/crevices in a spot or two. Looked like I was on the edge of a void/bubble or had sanded right through it to the upper edges.
-
I guess holes/bubbles are part of the casting process.
I removed a bit of metal from the bottom of the frame on my Pre B CZ85. I ran into what looked like rusty cracks/crevices in a spot or two. Looked like I was on the edge of a void/bubble or had sanded right through it to the upper edges.
You're probably right. Casting isn't perfect.
I think I've encountered a bubble every time I've taken a square trigger guard and made it round.
-
Cleaning off Evaporust
Workday #4
I woke up early this morning to check on parts and clean them off. Definitely darker after 6 hours of fresh Evaporust.
I tried using a toothbrush to remove the finish but it wasn't having it so I opted for 0000 steel wool.
Some areas didn't remove so I have to sand them down manually. Obviously the hardest to reach and most annoying places.
Last time I did this I remembered that the black evaporust felt almost like seaweed. This time it was dry. I hope I left it sitting long enough and hope I got all of it off. I'm Sanding anyway.
Then back to acetone.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/2ea8eb082584686570cba111e9f795bd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/8c7725ac350b50f1b65ad6c8e1563817.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/5197240d4000a3e3c8c24038daabfaf7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/60e24e4f5fec3fb9c4e6309ffde5aa83.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/33a08b74bfc96451088fa7b42afc5d4d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/50f6ebac9214d0bbccf8180a3727a90e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190903/56ff89bac40539313c4b6024383592f6.jpg)
-
Working that beavertail
Workday #5
I couldn't wait for a 1911 beavertail. I'm going to experiment once again with straight welding on to add the beavertail.
Here we go.
First is to compare beavertails.
I have the same 3D printed gun stands.
A CZ75B polished with factory beavertail.
A Tanfoglio Limited Pro with factory beavertail.
Then my in-process Semi-compact
It appears that the Semi-compact needs to be extended about 1/4" rearward and upwards.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/2b41dd4b7a2a8fb4889ea5e076c28ef1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/80e4d07ea54d1af50d9f76470f4d34fe.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/b7dc0d9adc406144f1b87eb559d557ce.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/86a4c948919f7543bd5d1235ac1bb120.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/585211a9890637a0e6c350df276eebff.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/f64c8a10aac8c9efa2e49366159f8746.jpg)
-
My first welding. Definitely better than the last gun.
I think I have the sides done well. I think I have the back OK.
If I have time tomorrow I'll start grinding and we'll see what happens.
I'm hopeful. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/bb9c9d41c98b8c485d6771a3622d1712.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/58df69f948024cf1e8131dbf5d613cc9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/aad19faeeb43191a37d1e69f09cde166.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/608d7a3adb7fc1fe2f8580de20b2b2d0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/9c35ab33293b777c0c25c53e28303d6b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/4ca1393743a3a367c968381cac367e79.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/27e7d1d67f867d2c04ab7509366a8204.jpg)
-
Some comparison pics back to the polished cz75b
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/27290a8c4e63008602481fd5c4f9a321.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/e3541529de23cf58c5ed6555d82882f9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/2cfd76a8b494463a69dbe509024f9b4d.jpg)
-
I couldn't help but do the grinding tonight. I was going to put it down but it was calling out to me.
I dare say I may not even have to go back to the welder. This may be a 1 and done situation.
What a contrast from the last gun which I strung everyone along for maybe 6 months of welding pain.
What I did learn this time is to only work on the top and bottom first. Leave the sides alone until you are totally done with top and bottom.
This is because if you do the sides at all and you need to weld again the sides will pull back from the welding puddle and yol have to redo the side.
Once the top and bottom are fine (looking at the profile from the side) I will start to blend it from the centerline out to the edges to radius it.
Then the final step will be to bring the edges back to the same width of the existing beavertail.
At present I think the top and bottom look almost done.
Maybe some finish work tomorrow if I have free time.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/bfce22fdcaa5f29310c232dddace8760.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/79295dda552af00ae135c321c43cdccd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/c1ad5aba529312c0d6185f25b020e94e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/cd62667bc4bb45fd49094bd4bc2d0a2f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/17d3d1927bdc9e57f2be788dbd5e162a.jpg)
-
Working that beavertail again
Workday #6
I spoke too soon. It's always the transitions from frame to new weld.
I'm trying to fill the transitions so there are no lines.
However this is much better than last time.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/7c98a1f65d59a673bac11fb6e03be517.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/7516adf4ccef1ab07c95afc41b9e1105.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/91ebba19b669913a9ccd64ff8dcedfed.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/f3b6b43e61c88c081f3ec2ede1f40b5f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/a74d1d72ff277a5496a78797e96b826d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190905/dafbf1d597fc2f33f93c15fca77237ea.jpg)
-
I like that tale.
-
Finishing the beavertail and more frame work
Workday #6 (double session)
I ended up welding 4 times and calling it done. Not perfect but much better than my previous attempts without as much pain. It's not perfect but I'm done.
I shoe shined it with 320 grit.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190906/dd98065034158b355f0fae7b47a1b204.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190906/735e3511b0a46aa2272f732525d570e0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190906/06f01d63efa2ddbe78a1211f75023aef.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190906/73b5afbdfde31654078eba18780946b8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190906/df89e43ec2566953ba75803ee4e14540.jpg)
-
I couldn't stop so I beveled the nose of the frame. I hate the squared off front because if I press check it jams into my fingers.
Then I put the sear cage back in and tossed the slide on.
I smoothed out the back of the gun so everything would match up and the cage didn't protrude out so far and the slide matched the frame.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190906/6ecc5b7ac5abaf58ed1940cc122bc756.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190906/d4ac7141a766ae25f510f800bae3fdd6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190906/4f5c55a6c5b5f9f7114e1a4b92ecb350.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190906/d680aa6870c3cd80661c5f8aad79a5c2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190906/884643d4ed3a0bae35b4dbfa93ec6359.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190906/26884d6a4aa5ed6b8f884abeabf5d522.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190906/e6a03e96c144b762144a0409f05161fc.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190906/668de99881b0466a482770250f4f3e8f.jpg)
-
Anything new to post? I admire your work.
-
I have been trying to find the time to work on it. Busy with kids and life.
-
I've really enjoyed your story! Great craftsmanship. Thanks for sharing and I can't wait to see how it ends.
-
Looks like you're having some fun man. Can't wait to see the finished product. :o I dig the Tanfoglio in the other pics too. 8)
-
You know there are a few things that have always bothered me about CZ's. One of them I have never tackled. I'm wondering whether I should.
At the nose of the gun the slide is scalloped ahead of the dust cover.
However the scallop never aligns with the beginning of the dust cover (frame). It's always protruding out.
I wonder if I should take off some of the metal on the slide so the slide scallop and the frame meet up. I'd have to get rid of maybe 1/4" of rail on the front of the slide too.
The Short Rail CZ's have the slide and frame mating up nicely.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190831/4c19926d6e9ad3217b705a5de1e8b775.jpg)
-
Enjoying the thread, wish I had the time and skills to do something similar, great job.
-
I say yes to reworking the slide/frame meet-up area........congrats on even finding a semi-compact, they are just about a thing of the past.....I've been looking for about a month, just nothing available anymore. Used to be able to find one fairly regularly, maybe not easily but they were available. As far as yours goes so far so good, thanks for sharing......whenever "life" allows looking forward to the updates ;)
-
I say yes to reworking the slide/frame meet-up area........congrats on even finding a semi-compact, they are just about a thing of the past.....I've been looking for about a month, just nothing available anymore. Used to be able to find one fairly regularly, maybe not easily but they were available. As far as yours goes so far so good, thanks for sharing......whenever "life" allows looking forward to the updates ;)
It's been busy. Every night I look at the clock and it's past midnight. Just don't have the energy for that right now.
-
That’s looking really nice, Underwhere! I’m glad you started a new thread for this; much easier to follow.
-
Found some time today to do some work.
I have a major annoyance with the trigger guard of most guns. The joint of my index finger rubs the edge of most guns and the CZ's are always a hard edge.
So I softened it on both sides. I still need to take some finishing passes. I'll do that when I do a final prep before bluing.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191109/99da1a58c7d0aed8777975cf8bb7bdd5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191109/aeefa7670945c6fb1a7facbfee444fa7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191109/fabcdeb8231320a727b022527e0b1896.jpg)
-
And I also funneled the magwell.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191109/1a3d69953d0432dc7221ee0f176a6b38.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191109/07d9caa956881ff62fbe15909f3047fa.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191109/4dd3011c28dc333ad8bcf4a21591de0b.jpg)
-
The square trigger guard is next on the list.
-
Found some time today to do some work.
I have a major annoyance with the trigger guard of most guns. The joint of my index finger rubs the edge of most guns and the CZ's are always a hard edge.
So I softened it on both sides. I still need to take some finishing passes. I'll do that when I do a final prep before bluing.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191109/99da1a58c7d0aed8777975cf8bb7bdd5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191109/aeefa7670945c6fb1a7facbfee444fa7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191109/fabcdeb8231320a727b022527e0b1896.jpg)
I break this edge on mine as well. As much as I shoot mine, you'd think I'd build a callous. Nope just a raw spot.
-
And I also funneled the magwell.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191109/1a3d69953d0432dc7221ee0f176a6b38.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191109/07d9caa956881ff62fbe15909f3047fa.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191109/4dd3011c28dc333ad8bcf4a21591de0b.jpg)
Man, that looks great! What did you use?
-
And I also funneled the magwell.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191109/1a3d69953d0432dc7221ee0f176a6b38.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191109/07d9caa956881ff62fbe15909f3047fa.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191109/4dd3011c28dc333ad8bcf4a21591de0b.jpg)
Man, that looks great! What did you use?
I use sanding drums for most of it. For the rear most right angles I use a pointed grinding bit (cone)
-
Just wanted to post an update and also to wish everyone a Happy Thanksgiving.
With CGW offering 10% off this weekend I decided I would take this opportunity to buy my parts for this build and another.
I went with a ring hammer and will be trying their nitrided black trigger.
Life has redirected my finances away from guns for little bit which has delayed my working on this project.
So hopefully in the next few weeks I can start getting back to this. Maybe around Xmas when I have some time off.
-
So a few weeks has turned into a few months.
But looking at someone else's nice guns has sparked some motivation.
Tonight I rounded the trigger guard.
I started with the serrations using a file.
Then I filed down the point.
Then I evened it out with the file.
The last few times I did this I started with the center using a dremel with a Sanding drum.
This time I did it differently and started with the sides (with a Sanding drum). I kept the drum at an angle to match the rest of the trigger guard and contoured it.
Then I lowered the middle to match the sides.
I ended up using 3 different grit Sanding drums, a flapper wheel and then polished it just so I could visibly see any imperfections.
Back into acetone it goes.
Until next time.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/5bfd0d81eb3c5903e4f9d921ee712fe5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/3e9067231bf31296945d8251a1bed970.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/452644be2e83730c08af0610d354655d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/2fe03e35808af7019e724cd2bda82d3f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/c4e07391ed8aa8980b89b05df573a210.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/8ddcccdfec824c4828ce4ca61a6e774e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/99bcbeee87b83e21069362f43a9b6282.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/9b30bae0ae1c8c4652e9adf34c81bd3f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/53b31ad4a18e42010791ce642b19abc8.jpg)
-
Fantastic work. I wish I had the patience to do work like that.
-
Fantastic work. I wish I had the patience to do work like that.
I wish I did as well.
-
It is interesting to see the stage by stage pictures. It looks like it came out well.
-
Trigger guard looks great. I only see one small pinhole in the pics, did it come out? That's always the most nerve wracking part for me, worrying about exposing a pinhole/pit when rounding the trigger guard.
-
Trigger guard looks great. I only see one small pinhole in the pics, did it come out? That's always the most nerve wracking part for me, worrying about exposing a pinhole/pit when rounding the trigger guard.
There is one very tiny one. If it stays that small when I show shine it, I may leave it. I would probably wreak more havoc trying to weld it
-
Apparently I'm very motivated now.
I flush cut and crowned the barrel into the bushing.
I also marked the slide stop lever and guide rod for shortening.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/7d2f048b1cac240557b8f5bb33ccaf91.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/d55765787547570da500bb263aece228.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/ac4c7e0666bd32e75946e9aa9211f9d4.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/b291696123c35f451789f8cc94405ee6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/6b1e3694394251bc94c29e4c3a960177.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/5a2a4e3798fb35f2d3a9050130aec19d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/ab420da1261ec6b86f0bd4dbafe0a446.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/ac5d85343ee5cdec1913af9d42767f11.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/bfe4ffdd081075f34c1c42d0d54c31e6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/60b1bb9e351eaa712dc106b91c14447e.jpg)
-
Recessed the slide stop lever and the guide rod.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/7ca3312b91673e70fd4a0ab4a1dbe197.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/e93c4b67cbfbfaa0c202c703fa156461.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/35e7887d84abe7ed12f371591fe78713.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/c2cdca9df37dba41bc07261fcf91238c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/ee9879f6e401d85d3e38f2eefaab61c7.jpg)
-
Keep up the great work and stages pics, awesome thread!
I'd love to do this to my 75B compact, only I would elect to go the hard-chrome route like 80% of my other pistols have.
Twelve likes and two thumbs up.
-
Keep up the great work and stages pics, awesome thread!
I'd love to do this to my 75B compact, only I would elect to go the hard-chrome route like 80% of my other pistols have.
Twelve likes and two thumbs up.
I did a compact in hard chrome a while back. Similar mods to this one. Came out awesome. (actual professionals did the hard chrome)
https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=97795.0
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200229/85adc331487a1c6e4037652fcfde4ecf.jpg)
-
Keep up the great work and stages pics, awesome thread!
I'd love to do this to my 75B compact, only I would elect to go the hard-chrome route like 80% of my other pistols have.
Twelve likes and two thumbs up.
I did a compact in hard chrome a while back. Came out awesome.
Yep, to say the least.
-
Looks like I spoke too soon. I thought I had gotten lucky and CZ didn't have a pocket of air in the casting.
Nope! It's in the exact same place as all the others I've done.
This is why I hesitate to round off a stainless CZ frame. Not sure I want to test out matching the finish on stainless filler.
I shoe shined the trigger guard today and it was perfect... All except for this one place that just wouldn't polish up right.
So I took my fingernail and pushed into it. Yep. Cavity. I pushed harder. It went deeper.
So I pushed on it with a punch to see how deep it went and dremeled it out. It looks pretty deep.
Not sure of my welding approach on this one. I may lay some filler metal in the channel created by the dremel bit and the try and create a speed bump with it.
I also noticed a very tiny pinhole. I'm going to ignore it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200302/ec83cff5dbc582c7d3cbf324ab197422.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200302/bc35b21d77a1282b0a8504bf9ebdd6ca.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200302/deee0435f8cc9291329f912b2c687e3d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200302/81541eaa75f7a191f2fc8eb52c76b6a4.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200302/5b9288aba50845175ce75264c77ddc1f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200302/90c1e2d464f2f7512df29605455b19d5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200302/a7b732c70ded1a0bf570ffbb3d70723d.jpg)
-
Aww man, that sucks. :(
-
Aww man, that sucks. :(
It's just more fun to have.
-
OK I'm sitting at my welding table posting between quick bursts of welding to give the trigger guard time to cool.
I cleaned up the channel with a carbide bit, acetoned it, the filler metal and the Tungsten rod.
I put some copper pipe under it as a heat sink to minimize the heat through the back side.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200303/37f3faae6e65c9ff0a7d2e180a5d0bc6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200303/5b6bf469e8e3f9f0a147047150a06407.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200303/b8647aab0eafb4b6b2ac2834b6d393cd.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200303/efe338b1b5fb486633520f6deecddcf3.jpg)
-
I think I'm done with it.
Not too bad. I forgot to take pics of it completed. You can't tell there was a cavity there at all.
Very little burn through the other side. I took care of it with some 400 grit.
I found some other spots inside the trigger guard but I'll leave them as-is.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200303/602a9db742907ed2a1cba35b94d0513e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200303/87e6ea4c50951d21379e5a5fe5214e7a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200303/3d89f7cfb2ac582545349280d4ad4bf6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200303/d5b1edf1bafdb1950c7f3dd093f7a9b6.jpg)
-
I removed the Cajun 10X bushing tonight and made a few quick passes on the slide rails with some 800 grit.
Then I did the slide and frame with 400 grit.
I definitely see some imperfections. Not sure how many I will try and fix. It may not be worth it.
I still have a tiny bit of frame work and polishing and then I may be ready for Bluing.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200304/88ab2c93775ce8f174d69fb39fb5356e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200304/ed4727e4925f7b6bed7bb58ea7c10612.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200304/93076ec8083023f4485a1641876fd546.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200304/c0b298bf103414b14f1a4f03995fd576.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200304/f53a5e4c0aa9262d8ba3b96141ba3d97.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200304/39c22abf3037c1a6adb734558a9202ab.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200304/56caa3583c162bc8ec7672c48b959e09.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200304/4ae003fba67141a05de8152ebbbcfc26.jpg)
-
As a reminder to myself here is a list of things I'll be bluing:) Excuse the imprecise terminology.
1. Slide stop lever
2. Safety
3. Sear cage (you can see it from the back of the gun)
4. Hammer retaining pin
5. Main spring plug
6. Barrel bushing
7. Hammer
8. Slide stop spring pin
9. Mag release
10. Extractor
11. Grip screws
My assumption is that the guide rod is stainless and won't take a bluing. Can anyone confirm that? Seems obvious as it's silver in color.
-
I'm considering putting my parts into a tumbler (separately) to see what happens...whether I can "polish" them somehow.
Thoughts?
-
I believe it would depend on what media you run in the tumbler.
-
I believe it would depend on what media you run in the tumbler.
I think I'm using corn media. Will that work?
-
My main concern would be media that was too coarse that might remove material from sharp edges or important surfaces. I have only used corn media for brass and it dose put a nice polish on the brass. While i have not tried it, it sounds like it is worth a shot. I might start with a less essential part like the Mag Release or Main Spring Plug and see what it dose to the sharp edges.
I am interested to hear what you find out.
-
My main concern would be media that was too coarse that might remove material from sharp edges or important surfaces. I have only used corn media for brass and it dose put a nice polish on the brass. While i have not tried it, it sounds like it is worth a shot. I might start with a less essential part like the Mag Release or Main Spring Plug and see what it dose to the sharp edges.
I am interested to hear what you find out.
You're probably right a test is in order.
I wonder what spare parts I can dig up to try this.
-
I regularly tumble supressor parts in a corn cob/walnut media mix without any ill effects. Those parts are titanium and heat treated stainless though. If you're rust bluing though, I'd be concerned about finishing with too fine of a surface profile?(800 grit ?).
-
I regularly tumble supressor parts in a corn cob/walnut media mix without any ill effects. Those parts are titanium and heat treated stainless though. If you're rust bluing though, I'd be concerned about finishing with too fine of a surface profile?(800 grit ?).
Can you have too fine of a finish when rust bluing?
I always thought a polished, then blued finish was how people got that "master blue" look.
-
I regularly tumble supressor parts in a corn cob/walnut media mix without any ill effects. Those parts are titanium and heat treated stainless though. If you're rust bluing though, I'd be concerned about finishing with too fine of a surface profile?(800 grit ?).
Can you have too fine of a finish when rust bluing?
I always thought a polished, then blued finish was how people got that "master blue" look.
Anything coarser than 320gr makes it very difficult to get the rust to take. I've tried 400gr, and it worked, but there was no difference in appearance and it took longer for rust to develop. I've also tried lightly blasting the rounds and sanding the flats, after rust bluing it all looked the same. If you want polished & blued, that would require hot salt bluing.
-
I regularly tumble supressor parts in a corn cob/walnut media mix without any ill effects. Those parts are titanium and heat treated stainless though. If you're rust bluing though, I'd be concerned about finishing with too fine of a surface profile?(800 grit ?).
Can you have too fine of a finish when rust bluing?
I always thought a polished, then blued finish was how people got that "master blue" look.
Anything coarser than 320gr makes it very difficult to get the rust to take. I've tried 400gr, and it worked, but there was no difference in appearance and it took longer for rust to develop. I've also tried lightly blasting the rounds and sanding the flats, after rust bluing it all looked the same. If you want polished & blued, that would require hot salt bluing.
Got it thanks.
I went with 400 but maybe I'll scuff with 320 before Bluing.
-
I took 20 min tonight to round the back edge of the slide that makes contact with the hammer.
I never understood why it was so sharp. I'm not sure whether it makes a difference but I always do it. It makes me feel better.
I also polished the firing pin block channel.
Next time I'll do the firing pin channel and I think the slide is ready for 320 grit, degrease, then Bluing.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200316/1afa32e0921ac77063eac8244a7c5d47.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200316/fff72a5b53509a48ef91e3c8fcbc0487.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200316/17baf360b3653f11c9ecef31287507e3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200316/4ea8e6a1821c12ff93b01580891c343e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200316/a0bd36ae5267e142bdb6e2eedc177238.jpg)
-
It's been a while. Too many projects around the house and this whole COVID thing is affecting my ability to get to this.
Yesterday night I was set on getting everything that needed bluing into raw form and ready for sanding.
I dropped my 10X barrel and my ring hammer into Evaporust. I left it in for a few hours and saw no change.
I poured some fresh solution and tried again this morning. No luck.
I think I remember Cajun saying they may have switched to DLC'ing their parts. Anyone have experience with this? I have been reading some hydrogen peroxide solution may remove the coating.
Edit: Called CGW: The 10X bushing is hot blued. I should treat that as normal. It went back into the Evaporust. I'll probably need to leave it in there for a few more hours.
I need to do the Ring Hammer differently. It's sitting in Hydrogen Peroxide. I'll see if that does anything. Worst case - I'll polish the sides and back manually, then scuff and blue those surfaces.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200420/d9acf014988a9c381da2acc1eba00410.jpg)
-
The evaporust finally worked on the barrel bushing. Left for 24 hours.
The hammer. Well some areas are showing the loss of coating. Only problem is that I'm not sure what did it.
Evaporust?
Kleen Aircraft grade stripper?
Hydrogen Peroxide?
So the hammer is going back into hydrogen peroxide and I'll snap some pics later to see if anything has happened. I may add sodium carbonate to it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/a9850f90d626229d09f2bfec01fc026e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/0c3a398661bfd8797febe31ffa0148b3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/8c788ef4c01078a9dc325b4d81221bf2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/a7fd081353add31d10876c49d2812ff7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/7c479c7d5e671bc02d079a3eeb478096.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200422/9caceea9cb2b52aef090544f5c060f0d.jpg)
-
So after another day in peroxide the finish is still there.
So I'm switching back to the aircraft stripper and will check in about 12 hours to see if there's any difference.
This is really nasty stuff. I hate using it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200424/44855dd657ff1adc2d020ffde5a61849.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200424/bbddaa78849df167d2f108b224ce0d48.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200424/74d9d7e83a046f3b03788d304445425e.jpg)
-
After more than a day in the stripper it is clear that no progress is being made.
So the peroxide did not work.
The stripper did not work.
Since there are 2 spots on the metal which are bare I can only assume it was not perfectly prepared or that the Evaporust was showing signs of progress.
Nonetheless I decided to hit it with a slow speed wire wheel. In seconds I was able to get the finish off. I think. I believe DLC is a surface finish and doesn't impregnate into the metal.
I put the hammer back into Evaporust after removing the finish to see if it'll develop a dark slimy coating. I think that would be a good sign that the metal is bare and ready for rusting.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/09dab34883401f23f58e290708bbb5d7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/34ead7e63293f2c69c1d3c403d9cdaf3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/03083a77a2efa8de84430dfca4588733.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/bc803497d8fe35844ad05bade7d34dcb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/da4124be1950c41b66bf11e93f88bc7b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/d830f29e6a2481b1d05d8c8113c382cd.jpg)
-
I may hit the sides with 320 grit.
I'll avoid the hooks.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/cfaf5ca79602b51c36e3d1a906db54b3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/6f0bfe1dfe0600b90812698321af63f2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/f4f7fd18a5968a93f903dafc7b4ac4d3.jpg)
-
I may hit the sides with 320 grit.
I'll avoid the hooks.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/cfaf5ca79602b51c36e3d1a906db54b3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/6f0bfe1dfe0600b90812698321af63f2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/f4f7fd18a5968a93f903dafc7b4ac4d3.jpg)
STOP........! Hammer Time! Sorry, I'm a product of the 90's and couldn't help myself. 8)
-
Interesting stuff, thank you for the pics. I am glad that you found an effective way to remove the coating. I look forward to seeing how the blueing turns out.
-
Fascinating process. I hope the blueing turns out as well as your prep work!
-
Spent a bit this morning sanding the hammer down with 320.
Stayed away from the hooks.
I think I'm close to Bluing.
I just need to sit down and review my process and make sure I haven't forgotten to prepare anything.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/0ab57ba1bbae38cd4ac75356fd11ca4b.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200426/38cfc2a9ed39f51f18fbe76825337852.jpg)
-
I'm trying to blue every exposed piece of steel possible.
The process:
- Degrease everything
- Sand some items with 320 grit
- Polish some contact surfaces
- Degrease
- Acetone bath and wait for bluing
- Blue it!
The list of things I need to blue : (This is the first time I've done the very detailed pieces like the retaining pins)
Frame -
Slide -
Extractor -
Mag Release -
Barrel bushing -
Hammer - sanding done
Slide stop lever -
Safety -
Slide stop retaining spring pin -
Hammer retaining pin -
Back of sear cage -
Top of hammer strut -
Extractor retaining pin -
Hammer retaining plug -
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200429/be5c3d7bf569729ea0ed31c1ef12eb27.jpg)
-
I'm not dead.
Just bringing this thread back.
At the start of this COVID stuff I ended up finishing my basement which is where my gunsmithing area was...so all of my stuff was tossed into the garage and significant renovations took place over several months.
The Semi sat in a bath of acetone and it actually began to rust on it's own. I had hoped that it would stay in decent shape until I was done with the renovations but it looks like I need to clean it up a bit with perhaps a wet sanding. Same with the small parts.
I'm almost back into my new workshop and will start to work on the gun again. Pics to follow and hopefully I'll finish this thing up in the near future.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/e7541472d4ceba88e4e58c03840d926d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/c3e732dc52f0781563035a152c3e8536.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201013/8d07a650e3286889eee2d713beb658aa.jpg)
-
Glad that you are not dead Underwhere. Thank you for the update.
-
acetone is fairly hygroscopic, so it will absorb water from the air. Kerosene or mineral oil are better for long term protective soaking.
Kind of a "two steps forward, one step back" effect on the project.
-
acetone is fairly hygroscopic, so it will absorb water from the air. Kerosene or mineral oil are better for long term protective soaking.
Kind of a "two steps forward, one step back" effect on the project.
Ugh. Oh well. As long as it didn't do any real damage I am OK just putting more effort into it.
-
Took some 320 grit to it this morning.
The outside looks decent now but I'm wondering if I drop this in some evaporust and hit it with a wire wheel on a dremel afterwards.
The insides are rusty but I'm thinking that's OK. Rust is rust.
Thoughts?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201111/e90f158f352a33c113336677f2f54875.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201111/c6efb72315120c026dbf7b8db6efcef2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201111/79fd46cb339051d7f1c1701bda0f0786.jpg)
-
Evaporust for a few hours then washing and scrubbing with a small stainless brush.
A little more sanding with 320.
Is starting to surface rust which is a good thing I think.
I'm not sure I need to bring this to a bright polish before rusting. I think I may be able to clean it and rust away.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201112/60c3c4260abb455a03450083cdec60c3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201112/13a30162f2cc935362fbb86a815966d6.jpg)
-
Looking good Underwhere. But I’m gonna need you to speed it up a bit if you’re gonna get it to me by Christmas. ;D 8)
-
Looking good Underwhere. But I’m gonna need you to speed it up a bit if you’re gonna get it to me by Christmas. ;D 8)
I'm motivated and my workbench is almost complete.
It's a good thing I made a list of things I need to do a few posts up. I need to polish some surfaces before bluing.
-
I've tried going finer than 320 before rust bluing. IME, it doesn't change the final appearance at all and takes longer to rust.
-
I've tried going finer than 320 before rust bluing. IME, it doesn't change the final appearance at all and takes longer to rust.
This is more for the parts that affect the action.
Walls of frame that the trigger bar makes contact with and the flat that the bottom of the trigger bar slides on.
-
I've tried going finer than 320 before rust bluing. IME, it doesn't change the final appearance at all and takes longer to rust.
Would you re-sand into all of it is brought and shiny or do you think it's fine to blue as it is?
-
I try to make sure all external surfaces look the same. After sanding with paper, I catch the hard to reach external areas with a red scotchbrite pad and then go over the whole piece to ensure all sand scratches are aligned in the same direction. Not sure if it's necessary, because after the second or third carding I can't see much of the scratch profile at all.
-
I try to make sure all external surfaces look the same. After sanding with paper, I catch the hard to reach external areas with a red scotchbrite pad and then go over the whole piece to ensure all sand scratches are aligned in the same direction. Not sure if it's necessary, because after the second or third carding I can't see much of the scratch profile at all.
Maybe I should hit it all with a scotchbrite pad.
-
I should not be so lazy.
It took me all of 5 minutes to get this thing shiny with a scotchbrite pad.
Then I stoned some of the sear surfaces.
I need to work on 3 parts of the frame where the trigger bar contacts and then I should be ready to clean/degrease then blue.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201113/6232dedbf492b77faeec0e34620dda3e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201113/c57d7f3882a2b79536678c7d4e5a89d8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201113/f8368ee4e88c44a56a00ecf0959fb123.jpg)
-
Polished a few places to ensure smooth operation.
I think my next action is to clean and blue.
Pics of the polishing and then of the small imperfections from CZ and from me (welding on the beavertail).
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201113/c21c44619c7ef8b720c8ef97f8b4e76c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201113/83ca3dce47f67fc15174d6e71f247fc0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201113/f9ed4bef2b0f30c28ae3239d933967a3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201113/079ba88a9ef50af6304e07052f5bdf4d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201113/d4c82af4b1460ee609cc31c7366ef612.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201113/0fe52fe5ca63116443e732e58b13ab35.jpg)
-
Looks good! A few minor imperfections don't detract in my opinion. What method are you going to use for bluing?
-
Looks good! A few minor imperfections don't detract in my opinion. What method are you going to use for bluing?
I'm going to use Mark Lee Express Blue.
I have others standing by but I'm not very good at bluing and the last time I over-rusted and pitted the metal.
I need something more forgiving until I get better.
-
Coming along nicely! 8)
-
I washed with dawn dish washing soap tonight.
The pot, the pliers, the plastic containers, all the gun parts.
The parts came out a tiny bit blotchy. Maybe I had the water on too hot?
Gloves on from here on in.
I'm going to try bluing anyway.
Everything got a wipe down and a quick hit with a small butane torch to get rid of any water.
And then there's the rusting.
I heated until the flash water burned off and then applied the bluing solution. I really struggle with this. Every time.
I use a dabber to get the inside of the frame and it causes the solution to bubble and foam a bit. Even if I wring it out beforehand. This caused a few drips.
Then I did the frame with a wrung out cleaning patch.
It's hard to do this whole the frame is hot to the touch.
So it's boiling now. Let's see what happens.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201114/a9e7aa3fe2418f4d6e55b6319a479020.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201114/c50412c173f880c5e52501892f330865.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201114/f29273faf33d7466325d00092072de14.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201114/38614f26043acbde38428843ef799696.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201114/6f58d60af24f7b5938beeb9769efe8c4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201114/9cc97cd46f934795f95059c073217d80.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201114/6d22eac169ef11b949f2c449b3095a19.jpg)
-
Eh.
It's always a struggle for me.
This is the lightest I've ever gone with the rusting solution. The hammer spring plug didn't blue much. Most everything else did.
Some spots on the frame show some splotches which are pretty clear to me that they are runs in the solution.
My hands hurt from carding. Time to stop today.
Maybe I'll try another rusting tomorrow.
Or does anyone think I should hit it with a scotchbrite pad and start over?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201114/f6c9e9430b49b7f3c96aae29b799bd7d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201114/96679583343aa7f31e559847345121e4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201114/d3146c9faddd90918170d0aca510c276.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201114/50aa8df9a88bbfd83113a8e2f7cf6eed.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201114/bcfb483fe6648817905adaca3a0d78e1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201114/434b63460d82c15265bab554976f2b3d.jpg)
-
I found my carding brush from my basement renovation move. That made quite a difference. I was just using oil free steel wool.
The frame looked much more consistent after the brushing.
So all was brushed and I am going for round 2 of rusting and boiling.
Things I am doing differently this time around.
1. I degrease my vise and a roll pin punch.
2. I'll put the bottom of the frame in the vise and rust the top. Once done I'll use my handle that inserts into the threaded hole in the frame and rust the bottom.
3. Use the roll pin punch to hold the slide in the vise (firing pin channel)
Much more consistent application this time around.
Here are pics after carding and before rusting and boiling.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/c0c9e7ebc134840f275a7eadf115ad9c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/912bf64782f314af22b5022157028c18.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/ff033a257a987195ed927c73b56b7313.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/f4b404e4edfe6ef07224393c42027d15.jpg)
-
I think it's looking good. My first rust cycle is always a little splotchy. I've learned to trust the process and go several cycles before I panic.
-
OK the second rusting and boiling is done.
Almost done carding. I need to get into the nooks and crannies of the frame and slide.
I think it's looking decent. The slide a little blotchy but I am hopeful it will turn out OK.
I used much less solution and the color is changing very slowly this time around but I think that's a good thing.
I will need to monitor the color differences between slide/frame and controls.
I think the slide darkens faster so I will need to do less cycles on it. Same with the controls.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/8de505f625452171e39f3c4da04bfca8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/9cad1886e48ab97f231f07a28dd54238.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/ef1a66e6938a1c16b57fc33dcba8e1fd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/89e4b6df018590bed53d02d151f82bb4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/d1d8967176760cad133822b8bf876772.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/51d1361a99456ea9952ae803b603a78d.jpg)
-
I had to sneak a peak before bed tonight.
I think the frame actually darkened as it sat on my workbench for an hour and a half. Call me crazy.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/0ee50bbe7aa3fcbce1619a1d2db92433.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/26bb4a8077baa52e556283140a842589.jpg)
-
Yeah the frame is lookin good.
-
Just some dry fitting of controls to see if the bluing matches. So far so good.
The back of the gun looks so clean now that it is smoothed out. This is why I am bluing the sear cage. It's gotta match.
2 spots in the back I hope work themselves out. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/83bf95e08bf69623f2c913ffad26b7fb.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/6ddc51fcf005c246f8c5b1de359e9507.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/bdb183e4aa3c5e9696c2ac3db3e1bbdc.jpg)
-
Matching Sear Cage and Hammer, nice.
-
Much better pics. That looks awesome man. Love how clean and lined-up the rear looks. If only I had the time and desire… ;D
-
OK cycle 3 is complete.
Straight forward. Rust, boil, card.
Here are the results.
I can't tell if it's getting any darker.
I was planning on 4 cycles for the slide and controls, and 6 for the frame.
Before :
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/5041bfa3226f91af06e16a05823cd48a.jpg)
After cycle 3:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/7e9af7adb9ecce2935b395b10d3a73a3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/de8baf9c30787f328b2f118cf76c8244.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/535bf55000145a7497a2e9a223738e74.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/d29d928334b3fc30216c647fba12d4e1.jpg)
-
Looks nice. I've always rusted mine until they won't rust anymore.
-
Compared to another pre-b I did last year and pitted.
I just realized I forgot to blue the hammer pivot pin retaining plug.
Its the short one right?
Gotta start rusting that one tomorrow.
I really wanted everything to match.
Hmmm. I need to do the grip screws too. Good thing I remembered today.
Now come to think of it I ordered a black trigger from CGW. Maybe I should blue it instead.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/276fcff504933f361d964a749e8e5e7a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/1d1d22ece0582df404598b9a3b2cbdff.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/a257cf5ba821dab5e1e52e7642c1b239.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/957815943fae45d2567670082b1ebe06.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/36e1114813d299c5e2dcd6eddda1dcb2.jpg)
-
Evaporust the grip screws and hammer pivot pin retaining plug
Evaluating the color...it looks like my frame is actually about the same as the frame on my already finished gun. I might only need 1 more bluing.
The slide on my previous gun is much darker. If I remember correctly, I could not get the frame to get any darker and I think I should have stopped bluing the slide so it could match. Now I'm thinking I should re-blue the slide (on the finished gun) so it matches. :)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/e6a51f8108681cb55be5d3768c40d5eb.jpg)
-
Rusted all the controls today and included the hammer pivot pin retaining plug and grip screws.
So the HPPRP and grip screws are on cycle #1
The controls are on cycle #4
The slide and frame are on cycle #3.
Putting them next to each other, I don't see a difference between the controls and the slide/frame.
I wonder if this is as dark as it'll get.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/45d6a0c73516abc7dc6750a50faab373.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/7b4784f7fe5ae6e9133c19652bca906f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201116/45e16f13953c02152341125ffdb77159.jpg)
-
I did a lot more today.
The HPPRP and grip screws are on cycle #3
The controls are on cycle #5
The slide and frame are on cycle #4
I don't think anything is getting darker. It's not blue but more gray.
The Mark Lee Express Blue process is to heat, apply, and immediately boil. Perhaps the process could stand for more rusting time and that is why it's not getting any darker.
The frame has some spottiness going on. I think I will do the frame one last time and hope to clear away as much as possible, not necessarily for it to get darker.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/9965efcdbc20d27e66691e734788a117.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/340acb512bcc551be790e81b038fb036.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/f209e0abdbdda746eba3f18f193baad3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/a897418f479eb9d287fb10bab4eb3442.jpg)
-
The HPPRP and grip screws are on cycle #4
The controls are on cycle #5
The slide is on cycle #4
The frame is on cycle #5
And I think I'm done with bluing.
Into the non-detergent motor oil it goes for 3 days.
Time to polish up the internals and get everything ready.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/2beee0b9fc0386f935bef51637d4c301.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/40fa421cc90489b9c4a2b2555b4c66c6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/8e29caaa4590d4bfff54dad415628672.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201117/c1e6aceb1e603608d92fc0f4971a96a3.jpg)
-
And I just realized I forgot to order grips.
My go-to is the grips4u.net wood grips.
Any suggestions?
-
Nay suggestions?
Yes, put some really nice wood grips on it and package it up good. I don’t want it to get damaged when you ship it to me for Christmas. 8) ;D
-
And I just realized I forgot to order grips.
My go-to is the grips4u.net wood grips.
Any suggestions?
those are a good choice - a have a few sets from grips4u
-
I love the look of the blued metal sitting in oil.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201118/fb48df9cb1f73d1e7ffab3c25a1c2104.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201118/90fc48a179d994434722097ac330af94.jpg)
-
I did a quick polish of the action components tonight.
Should be ready to drop in.
This trigger bar is probably not the worst that has been produced but it's not the best. On the underside where the trigger support spring rides the channels cut into the bar are a bit odd. One side is fine. The other side is missing a wall almost.. So I'm concerned the spring will stay within the channel. We will see.
I removed the parts from motor oil and will let sit lightly oiled for the next day.
Its not perfect but it looks beautiful.
I'm glad I went a bit crazy and did all the tiny exposed parts. Looks good all matchy matchy. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201120/7f4069887d6a858092158ca491c69db6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201120/7d1826ab4a1fc729fc877c1523375812.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201120/0286eab46967bc3cbfb501c5ac9dc8d8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201120/9e9d117d1801e524b61e70c91da30397.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201120/2e79c6447d9b5e38994b39f9a97c0e23.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201120/00ad3590f4c3dd1367378ed796c14415.jpg)
-
The gun and parts are out of motor oil and wiped off.
I'll leave it for another day before really buffing it dry with a towel.
The finish is decent. I like it.
I put the barrel bushing back in to see how it will look with the barrel.
I think I'll keep it flush cut and blued rather than the bushing polished like the crown.
It's almost there.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201121/0239b197f5af1326c1a65c0de628d078.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201121/42776d76a74939e2b0466b47fca0bdd4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201121/4f9a15283eef0669f04411f2e17feffd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201121/6f786889b8e96fb1eba08783e364fcb8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201121/c5fe50cfe378666f757c5b32828848e0.jpg)
-
Looks like it darkened up nicely. Congrats!
-
It's lighter than it looks.
I guess I'll need to do another gun to try another bluing method but I'm starting to get tired. My hands hurt.
I feel old for 40
-
I feel old for 40
Me too. I turned 40 in June. :-\
-
Gun assembled.
Some function issues.
The slide gets stuck when racking it and returning back to battery. A lot of resistance from the trigger bar.
I suspect it is disconnecter related and that it is probably a little too thick in some areas.
Also in DA the hammer does not fall.
Gotta step away for a bit and research when I return.
Mangled the front sight roll pin using an undersized roll pin punch. No damage to the gun. It's been a while.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201121/10cd2c879e7b20c1c7969af2c91c8c63.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201121/922759bd54aba1602c5a38b2be66e352.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201121/65ebf8e17204afe9b23baa846523db8d.jpg)
-
I feel old for 40
Me too. I turned 40 in June. :-\
i hate you I turned 65 in June O0
-
Gun assembled.
Some function issues.
The slide gets stuck when racking it and returning back to battery. A lot of resistance from the trigger bar.
I suspect it is disconnecter related and that it is probably a little too thick in some areas.
Also in DA the hammer does not fall.
Gotta step away for a bit and research when I return.
Mangled the front sight roll pin using an undersized roll pin punch. No damage to the gun. It's been a while.
A possible remedy for the DA Hammer not falling with the Trigger pulled all the way back is removing material from the underside of the Disco wings. Starting with a small bevel on the lower corner of the face of the Disco wings may be worth trying first.
I am not sure about the racking issue.
-
So I removed the disco to check behavior without it.
I still experienced drag on the slide.
So started messing with the trigger bar support spring and that seems to have alleviated the problem. But the trigger bar is definitely not the best. One side has a channel with very little wall on one side..
I polished the wing of the disco and it fixed the issues with the hammer not falling.
At the moment I am at 7 pounds 6 ounce DA and 2 pounds 0 ounce SA.
The SA is fine. The DA is not.
I may experiment with trying to cut the channel deeper in the trigger bar to see if I can make sure it is consistent.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201121/e85c45a37a95cf05c77755c6584acfd4.jpg)
-
I have reprofiled the spring channels successfully on a few Trigger Bars using a real thin cutoff disk on a Dremel.
Glad that you solved the other issues.
-
I have reprofiled the spring channels successfully on a few Trigger Bars using a real thin cutoff disk on a Dremel.
Glad that you solved the other issues.
I was thinking the exact same thing. It's gotta be really thin. I may try it tonight if I have the right discs
-
Good luck, hope you get it all lined out. I’d like to hear your range report.
-
On my transitional the front sight pin holes are offset. Boogered up 2 pins before I realized what was causing it.
-
Good luck, hope you get it all lined out. I’d like to hear your range report.
I laughed out loud.
It's probably been 2 years since I've shot a CZ. Maybe longer.
If you thought this thread took a long time to get through, just wait for the range report.
-
I think I have the trigger bar channels much better now. Did some pretty precise filing and dremeling. The spring now has a decent groove to sit in.
But I'm still having issues with the slide hanging up.
Thoughts?
I'm wondering if it's a trigger bar timing issue.
1. It still did this when I removed the disconnector
2. When I pull the trigger the friction goes away
3. It is intermittent
4. Sometimes it's tight enough that pushing with my thumbs won't release it.
https://youtu.be/kcmrwQJTTZ0
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/bd462404335742558eab2d6a98f00f69.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/a8a156fa7af8ad770c634520a12c6a7c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/9e69952614e390b0e842b7b81859fa8b.jpg)
-
i hate you I turned 65 in June O0
:-\ ;D
-
That is an odd one. You said that it was doing this with the Disco removed, that leads me to believe that it is not a timing issue. The Trigger Bar must be dragging/jamming up somehow. How dose it run with the slide removed? Dose the Trigger reset ok, it looked like it failed to reset towards the end of the video.
-
That is an odd one. You said that it was doing this with the Disco removed, that leads me to believe that it is not a timing issue. The Trigger Bar must be dragging/jamming up somehow. How dose it run with the slide removed? Dose the Trigger reset ok, it looked like it failed to reset towards the end of the video.
It looks to be running fine without the slide.
That was an older video before fixing the disco and trigger bar.
https://youtu.be/iZzWSC0Nnao
-
Before you installed the trigger assembly, sear cage and hammer assembly did the slide seem to fit the frame ok?
Are you seeing drag wear marks in the slide or fame rails?
-
Before you installed the trigger assembly, sear cage and hammer assembly did the slide seem to fit the frame ok?
Are you seeing drag wear marks in the slide or fame rails?
Yea the slide went on fine no issues. Even polished up the frame rails before bluing.
Pulling the trigger relieves the friction.
That's why I think it may be the trigger bar.
Rearward motion lowers the bar.
-
Pulling the trigger relieves the friction.
That's why I think it may be the trigger bar.
Rearward motion lowers the bar.
Do you think it is at all possible that welding on the Beavertail could’ve caused any kind of warping at the rear of the frame?
Also is that the original trigger bar to that gun?
-
Pulling the trigger relieves the friction.
That's why I think it may be the trigger bar.
Rearward motion lowers the bar.
Do you think it is at all possible that welding on the Beavertail could’ve caused any kind of warping at the rear of the frame?
Also is that the original trigger bar to that gun?
I polished the rails after all the welding was complete and before bluing.
So I don't think that's it.
And yes the trigger bar is original.
I replaced all springs with new ones.
New disco, New hammer, New sear, New trigger.
Strange huh.
-
No I meant warping to the frame underneath where the sear cage sits.
Or maybe even the trigger bar could be slightly bent. Do you have another one to compare it to?
-
I just went back down to the workshop to test something.
I held the trigger back and cycled the slide. No friction.
With the trigger reset and the bar up in the topmost position is where I get the the drag.
Strange. I am pretty sure if I try another trigger bar tomorrow that it'll work. I should do that.
But what could it be...
I polished the bar. If anything I should have taken away metal which I think would cause less friction and things would be looser not tighter.
I wonder if I overpolished the lobes at the top of the trigger bar. That would be a first. Maybe the bar isn't moving downwards enough during the slide cycling and that is causing it to jam up.
-
Yeah definitely compare that trigger bar to another one. I wish I could see it in person, I like troubleshooting guns.
-
I pulled the trigger bar out of my matte stainless.
It's a little different but dimension-wise very similar.
The spring channels are cut deeper and cleaner than my semi-compact.
There is a bevel on the underside of the trigger bar that doesn't exist on my semi-compact.
As I expected the stainless trigger bar in my semi-compact worked without issue.
So I cut the bevel in my semi-compact bar, polished the surfaces with 400, 800 and then hit the bottom of the bar with 800.
I also tried cutting the spring channel a bit more. Just slightly.
And now it works fine. Weird.
I will disassemble and polish everything to finalize it.
But now I noticed a new problem.
When I use my trigger gauge to test SA, the hammer falls to half cock.
And if I pull the trigger ever so slightly in SA it falls. I highly doubt I would ever be able to replicate that on the range.
Pics: the one with less tool marks is from the stainless. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/b520e7b6c18e7f56ca7861659f02fb92.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/c0945574b303f1f4635bfbb8513bdf17.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/429603418d9ca31536955e882d8d8b93.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/3295c250c1b52e3d9f48b9bbb06ecdd4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/4077a4da3711c6ce74521bacedba9602.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/a29d2c2824c90058b8b1811db4034ede.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/e6b6d3043bc3b0de7a347b82ec142e91.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/6818e36bf5c619f425a62a121248770d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/04bc105db8ca5cdd3a871d55c053fd2c.jpg)
-
The new bevel.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/418980a4ec23f5fbfd327421e641b12d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/dc160cb81145af01282dd08730da5db5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/4da2c2bb5c88d614151da9ee9b259a64.jpg)
-
OK so I attempted to fix the SA hammer dropping to half cock. I did. But I fuxored the sear by doing so.
It's been a while since the last time I made a mistake that needed a replacement part. Oh well.
The issue with the SA dropping as I understand it : the trigger bar moves back and rotates the sear out of the way, allowing the hammer to fall and hit the firing pin.
What was happening in my case is that the disconnector (normally doing nothing in SA) was actually still engaged with the trigger bar so when the sear releases the hammer, it falls forward but gets stopped by the disconnector hitting the trigger bar. I don't believe it's actually falling to half cock.
The solution (from reading other posts) is to take the edge off the wing on the disconnector.
So I did. And I fixed the issue.
But I took so much off that the disconnector slips off the trigger bar in DA way too early now. The hammer barely moves back.
So I need a new sear.
I'll give CGW a call tomorrow and see whether they recommend a new trigger bar too.
I've worked on maybe 20 or more CZ's all with CGW parts and have never had a gun be this far out of time in every direction.
But it's a learning experience. I'm good with it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201122/f71efd952ecb2379c779a6e0bdc569ac.jpg)
-
Assuming the gun functioned properly before you did any work to it, I’m curious why there would be a problem after. What changed between unmodified to modified?
Also would the width of the disconnector hook channel on the trigger bar matter?
-
Assuming the gun functioned properly before you did any work to it, I’m curious why there would be a problem after. What changed between unmodified to modified?
Also would the width of the disconnector hook channel on the trigger bar matter?
It did seem to function fine before.
But I put in a new sear, New hammer, New disconnector.
That's enough to change everything.
However I have done these action modifications to many CZ's and have never had to fiddle this much.
I could have just called CGW on Monday but I didn't want to wait. I'm impatient.
-
I could have just called CGW on Monday but I didn't want to wait. I'm impatient.
I’m the same way. ;D
-
Also would the width of the disconnector hook channel on the trigger bar matter?
Forgot to answer this. I checked the width. Plenty of clearance on either side. I just made sure both sides were free from burrs in case there was some contact.
-
I called CGW this morning.
It really puts you in your place when you talk to people who know so much more than you. They are just awesome.
1. Slide friction - The older CZ's have trigger bars like mine which may not be ramped like the newer ones. This causes the lip on the bottom of the disconnector to interfere with the trigger bar going as far down as possible. So the solution is to cut that lip off...or in my case I cut a ramp to give it room. Either way will work.
2. SA hammer falling and the disconnector hitting the trigger bar. I removed too much material. I should go slower.
I have a new disconnector on the way.
-
Awesome!
-
Grips came today. Had to clearance the right side slightly.
Some quick glamour shots.
Still need to finalize a few things.
Loctite rear sight
Disconnector fitting
Trigger set screws
Sear safety setting
Barrel hood polishing
Then I think it'll be done.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/f8fba10721e6a696383063aaa515f0e5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/1e2ae02c5e274b82c56d2bbb76c685a7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/1679675b86abbebd5c562ff6988247ce.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/3ef1efce71c2ac3def675b3cab4893b3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/4c33eccf5ab6ea7bdc463c281c76a7f6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201123/682c114841d7ad3849d79816c7edf9aa.jpg)
-
8) 8) 8)
-
The drop to Disco half cock issue i have seen before. It is surprising how little material requires removal to remedy this malfunction in some cases.
So that i am clear, the cause of the slide jamming up was the inside of the Disconector hook limiting the Trigger Bars downward travel? This is a new one to me, interesting stuff.
Glad that you got things worked out. The flush cut Slide Stop looks nice. Thank you for the many pics.
-
The drop to Disco half cock issue i have seen before. It is surprising how little material requires removal to remedy this malfunction in some cases.
So that i am clear, the cause of the slide jamming up was the inside of the Disconector hook limiting the Trigger Bars downward travel? This is a new one to me, interesting stuff.
Glad that you got things worked out. The flush cut Slide Stop looks nice. Thank you for the many pics.
Yes the bottom nose of the disconnector has a little lip.
If you look up a few posts you will see my trigger bar vs a newer trigger bar.
On mine, the slot for the nose of the disconnector is squared off.
This means the trigger bar was sitting on top of the disconnector lip... The bottom of the trigger bar couldn't make contact with the frame.
This is why when I cut the ramp in the trigger bar the problem went away.
Still a mystery is why I had slide issues when I removed the disconnector. Maybe that was support spring issues.
-
looks good with the new set of grip panels.
-
New disconnector arrived today.
I dropped it in for some tests.
SA - the hammer drops to the disconnector hitting the trigger bar.
DA - I cannot get the hammer to fall. I just pull the trigger back and the trigger bar never drops. I need to check how far back the hammer is going relative to other DA CZ's that I have. I need to make sure it's far back enough to light off primers.
So I think the disconnector needs some fitting.
I'm not sure whether to try and fit the SA not falling or the DA issue first.
-
When you pull the trigger in double action does the sear click on the half cocked notch of the hammer and lock in?
-
When you pull the trigger in double action does the sear click on the half cocked notch of the hammer and lock in?
Nope.
-
I agree that establishing the DA Hammer travel is a good start. Note that the DA Hammer travel is generally shorter to some degree than the SA Hammer travel in CZ 75 variants. It is my understanding that the difference in travel is increased with the Reach Reduction / Short Reach disconectors.
If i am reading things correctly and the disco proves to be the source of the issue, i would go after the DA first. I am thinking that removing the material necessary to get the DA working may also cure the SA issue. Advancing the DA break should require removing material from the underside of the Disco wings. The remedy for the SA drop to disco issue generally requires removing material from the lower front corner of the disco wings.
I am interested to hear what you find out. These malfunctions do not come up that often from what i have seen. You are lucky Underwhere. :)
-
I agree that establishing the DA Hammer travel is a good start. Note that the DA Hammer travel is generally shorter to some degree than the SA Hammer travel in CZ 75 variants. It is my understanding that the difference in travel is increased with the Reach Reduction / Short Reach disconectors.
If i am reading things correctly and the disco proves to be the source of the issue, i would go after the DA first. I am thinking that removing the material necessary to get the DA working may also cure the SA issue. Advancing the DA break should require removing material from the underside of the Disco wings. The remedy for the SA drop to disco issue generally requires removing material from the lower front corner of the disco wings.
I am interested to hear what you find out. These malfunctions do not come up that often from what i have seen. You are lucky Underwhere. :)
Yes I'm thinking along the same lines.
But I'm also on my 2nd disco and I recognize that CGW knows a ton more than me.
I don't have time tonight, I am limited tomorrow so perhaps I'll just try and give CGW a call on Monday morning and see what they recommend.
To fix the DA in thinking that I need to take off a little of the underside of the wing. This will allow the disconnector to separate from the trigger bar which will allow the hammer to fall.
The thing I'm pondering over is whether I need to remove material from the flat or bevel it.
-
I agree that establishing the DA Hammer travel is a good start. Note that the DA Hammer travel is generally shorter to some degree than the SA Hammer travel in CZ 75 variants. It is my understanding that the difference in travel is increased with the Reach Reduction / Short Reach disconectors.
If i am reading things correctly and the disco proves to be the source of the issue, i would go after the DA first. I am thinking that removing the material necessary to get the DA working may also cure the SA issue. Advancing the DA break should require removing material from the underside of the Disco wings. The remedy for the SA drop to disco issue generally requires removing material from the lower front corner of the disco wings.
I am interested to hear what you find out. These malfunctions do not come up that often from what i have seen. You are lucky Underwhere. :)
Yes I'm thinking along the same lines.
But I'm also on my 2nd disco and I recognize that CGW knows a ton more than me.
I don't have time tonight, I am limited tomorrow so perhaps I'll just try and give CGW a call on Monday morning and see what they recommend.
To fix the DA in thinking that I need to take off a little of the underside of the wing. This will allow the disconnector to separate from the trigger bar which will allow the hammer to fall.
The thing I'm pondering over is whether I need to remove material from the flat or bevel it.
This is a good reason to ponder. If you find out anything interesting from CGW, i will be interested to hear about it.
-
I have the gun up and running finally.
I called CGW today and spoke to a gunsmith. Not the best conversation I've had with CGW but I combined their feedback with bit of my intelligence to figure out what I should be doing.
To recap:
After putting the new disconnector in there were 2 problems.
1. In SA the hammer was falling but the disconnector would hit the trigger bar, blocking the hammer from falling all the way
2. In DA I could not pull the trigger back far enough for the hammer to fall
I wasn't sure whether to try and tackle #1 or #2 first...but after thinking about it realized that tackling either one would likely alleviate the other.
CGW recommended I watch their video on fitting a disconnector which shows them taking off a tiny bit of the disconnector wing. The video probably gets a lay person 50% of the way there.
I removed the sear cage and was able to take a square stone to bevel the edge of the wing while it was still in the gun. I gave it about 8 strokes as it was a fine stone. I saw a tiny bit of material come off.
This fixed the DA hammer issue. I was pretty surprised at how little needed to be removed to fix it.
The SA issue continued.
I put in the overtravel screw and set it so the sear would clear the hammer hooks.
I went back to bevel more of the edge. I could feel the interference get better and better.
At one point I thought that I was free and clear but if I rocked the hammer back and forth while holding the trigger back I could feel the slightest friction.
So a few more passes with my stone.
Now the hammer falls in SA without interference.
The hammer releases in DA at almost the same point that the trigger breaks in SA (which is what Scott at CGW said is ideal)
I loctited my trigger set screws, my sear safety screw and now am letting it set overnight.
I need to confirm that the FPB is timed correctly tomorrow.
I am getting trigger pulls:
DA: 5# 5 ounces
SA: 2# 3 ounces
-
Old and new
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201201/4291983652045d59657f8b9c9760d3ac.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201201/857e3a180c7c40941f2465b5d19325ef.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201201/7b6c993690b86d9246e63a9baa66f3a5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201201/8b0ae4690c3f9e4a0a3a7c9368a4258e.jpg)
-
Nice, glad you got it lined out. Looks awesome.
-
I think I'm done. That was anticlimactic.
Tested the firing pin block tonight.
Looks like the block allows the firing pin past almost exactly the same time the hammer is released from the sear.
I would prefer it to be a hair sooner but I tested by taking a pencil and putting the eraser down into the barrel. Seems like it is making decent hits on it.
OK. Project finished.
I'm a bit tired now. I'm not sure I'm doing another CZ project like this for a while. This took a lot of effort over way too much time.
-
I'm not sure I'm doing another CZ project like this for a while. This took a lot of effort over way too much time.
But what you have for all your work is two completely custom CZ's, personally hand finessed and pistols of beauty.
Enjoy them in good health!
-
I'm not sure I'm doing another CZ project like this for a while. This took a lot of effort over way too much time.
But what you have for all your work is two completely custom CZ's, personally hand finessed and pistols of beauty.
Enjoy them in good health!
Thanks. I appreciate that.
Maybe I take up 1911's
-
Very nice job.Weii done and congratulations.
Manolis
-
Glad to hear that the issues have been solved Underwhere. It is interesting that the bevel took care of both issues. In lieu of encountering these issues myself this example is a valuable data point. It suggest that once the the lower corner of the Disco wing clears the Trigger Bar in DA, it will travel the rest of the way over the Trigger Bar without contacting. I was not sure that the underside of the wings would maintain clearance through the Hammer drop.
Thanks again for taking the time to bring us all along with you on this project. You ended up with some very cool and unique CZ pistols.
-
Wow! That is so interesting. Very cool that you posted the progress. I couldn’t stop reading until I got to the completed project. I would love to have the talent and confidence to work on my own guns at this level. Great work!