The Original CZ Forum
CZ LONG ARMS => CZ Scorpion EVO => Topic started by: boss281 on November 08, 2019, 01:59:00 PM
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I see several threads where others were going to do a trigger/spring update and the case securing screw (the 3mm allen wrench one) gets stripped and/or is loctite secured. I may have to either drill it out or get it out with channel locks, both solutions mentioned in a couple of threads.
I'm about to place an amazon order. Can someone recommend the channel locks? The appropriate drill bit? I don't have any metal drill bits...
Note this is NOT a welded screw, i.e., there is no nut on the other side welded to the screw. It just stripped using a 3mm...
Thanks.
What a PITA.
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Best bet is to just order the kit from HB Industries that contains the proper bit and a replacement screw. Only couple of bucks and tremendous service. They also have a video showing you exactly how to proceed.
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Best bet is to just order the kit from HB Industries that contains the proper bit and a replacement screw. Only couple of bucks and tremendous service. They also have a video showing you exactly how to proceed.
Thanks. I assume the bit is for the unwelded screw as well? I may be wrong but I thought that bit was to break the nut. I'll have to watch their video. I have a call into them anyhow, waiting on the return...
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The HB Industries drill bit engages the allen hole in the head of the screw and when done correctly the head comes off the shank of the screw. Remove the trigger cage from lower receiver and with pliers/vise grips remove the threaded shank of the screw from inside the cage. Easy peasy. I recommend HBI's bit because they went the extra mile to source a bit with short flutes and a long unfluted shank so it won't eat into your plastic triggerguard. Their video explains the simple process very well. The process is exactly the same for a welded screw or a stripped out head.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlpgImY8B3s&feature=emb_title
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The HB Industries drill bit engages the allen hole in the head of the screw and when done correctly the head comes off the shank of the screw. Remove the trigger cage from lower receiver and with pliers/vise grips remove the threaded shank of the screw from inside the cage. Easy peasy. I recommend HBI's bit because they went the extra mile to source a bit with short flutes and a long unfluted shank so it won't eat into your plastic triggerguard. Their video explains the simple process very well. The process is exactly the same for a welded screw or a stripped out head.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlpgImY8B3s&feature=emb_title
Ahhh. Ordered!
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I did my trigger spring change a couple of months ago with zero issue. The new guns being sold are not welded. And loctite on mine Broke easy. No reason for the drill if a 2019 gun
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I did my trigger spring change a couple of months ago with zero issue. The new guns being sold are not welded. And loctite on mine Broke easy. No reason for the drill if a 2019 gun
Mine wasn't welded either. However, the screw head stripped and didn't break the Loctite. I had to drill out and replace the screw.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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I did my trigger spring change a couple of months ago with zero issue. The new guns being sold are not welded. And loctite on mine Broke easy. No reason for the drill if a 2019 gun
Mine wasn't welded either. However, the screw head stripped and didn't break the Loctite. I had to drill out and replace the screw.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Exactly. Needle nose channels arrive today, will try those. If they work, then I'll have the drill bit sitting around as a spare whenever that show up. If the channels don't work, then I'll wait for the bit to arrive.
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If u have a soldering gun or iron you can hear the screw head to help break the loctite
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If u have a soldering gun or iron you can hear the screw head to help break the loctite
I do have a soldering iron. I'll try that too!
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Interesting. I received my drill bit today, and attempted to drill out the head of the screw so the trigger pack could be separated from the case.
First, I wish the drill bit had been slightly longer. It was barely long enough to pop through the trigger guard and secure to the drill. Unfortunately, I marred, slightly, the bottom of the trigger guard.
Second, the head of the screw didn't come off with drilling, but once I'd passed the depth of the head, needle nose pliers popped it off and I separated the case from the trigger assembly, and used the needle nose to remove the rest of the screw.
I'm going to eat, then put it all back together later tonight.
Two questions: What is the lubrication spec? I'm assuming just the springs and where metal contacts the trigger case. Mine was pretty wet with oil throughout, I found that odd (from an old AR user's perspective).
Last, like I said, I marred the trigger unit casing. Mine is OD Green, I only see black on the website http://shop.cz-usa.com/ProductDetail/366005300702_Trigger-Unit-Casing-Evo . Are the other colors even available?
Thanks.
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...and all back together, function checks fine, will take to the range and sight in the red dot and run about 100 rounds through the gun.
Thanks all for the suggestions and help.
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I've never seen any other colors except maybe fde but then again I've never really looked for one either.
The color is through out the polymer so depending on the damage you should be able to take a light grain sandpaper and smooth out the damage area. At least make it a lot less noticeable.
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Received my Scorpion carbine last week (Jan 2021). Mine did not have the welded screw for the trigger pack, and I was able to break the loctite and remove the screw. The amount of loctite looked like during assembly it was flooded. The round tip of the screw looks to me to be where the washer would be welded in place for the "world trigger pack". Thanks to everyone who posted photos of the screw heads. This allowed me to know that mine could be removed if I broke the loctite free.