The Original CZ Forum
CZ LONG ARMS => CZ Center fire Rifles => Topic started by: atomicsmurf on May 16, 2020, 10:29:28 AM
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I've got one on order at my LGS and just wanted to try to get some info sorted out before the gun arrives.
I want to put a pachmayr slip on recoil pad on the back, does anybody know off hand what size I would need for the polymer stock?
Does Hornady PPU or Geco ammo run okay in this rifle? I've heard of light primer strikes on american stuff, but is that ammo okay.
I've got a ton of Tulammo, some sliver bear, red army and wolf on hand. Anybody shoot that?
Thanks!
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I've only used PPU ammo, usually just shoot it at the range and reload for hunting ammo. GECO should be good too. Pretty much any of the Eastern European makers ammo will work with no problems. It's SAAMI spec ammo that sometimes has problems. If you reload, just neck size and you'll never have a problem.
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Greetings,
On my wood stock (but not my polymer) 527 I have a large Pachmayr pad to increase the length of pull. I recall the dimensions are listed on Amazon and the I just measured my buttstock.
I have had zero problems w Hornady Black, the now unavailable steel case Hornady SST, or PPU. Out of about 200 rounds I had two (?) light strikes on GECO that fired the second time through the magazine.
In contrast, IMHO my 527 in .223 is extremely picky about what ammo it will initiate.
ABE
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On my 527 Carbine (walnut) in 7.62X39mm there haven't been any light strikes. It's functioned with everything I can find in the cheap steel and brass reloads.
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527 carbine 7.62x39 and I've shot both brass PPU and wolf military classic. I've never had any issues with either and the brass PPU is a slightly more accurate and smoother cycling round. The wolf military classic shoots very well also and is a much more economical round, accurate too. I've got a vortex crossfire II 2-7x32 scope mounted on a DIP rail with low Redfield rings, it's a very nice setup and I shoot out to 150 yards no problem.
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My 527M of about the same vintage has only had ignition problems with a couple different lots of Fiochi ammo I picked up at an LGS. The aforementioned Hornady steel case SST shoots sub-moa and I'm fortunate enough to have stockpiled about 150 rounds, which should be much more than enough for all future hunting needs. All the steel case cheap imports shoot well, but I worked up a small accumulation of Tula 123gr FMJ which seems to be just a bit more accurate than the others. Of note is the Sellier&Bellot 123gr softpoint, which shoots close to MOA in it's own right. The S&B is brass cased so it can feed your reloading press quite nicely and if you order some SST bullets from Hornady you can load some excellent hunting rounds.
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As mentioned above my 527 has never given me any cause for concern but if you feel the need JP Products sells a stronger firing pin spring for $16.
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How do I adjust the rear and front sight for windage and elevation? What tools do I need?
I just picked up the gun and it's really nice. The test shot paper that came with it had a very tight 3-shot group -- I'm very excited!
I cycled 5 rounds through and the first round is always a bit stiff to get it moving. I have to kind of give two stiff pushes on the bolt handle to get it moving. The next three rounds don't require as much force. I'm hoping that will smooth out.
Haven't shot it yet. I'm waiting for the gun range to open next week.
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Just an update:
For those wanting to know what tool to use for the sights on their CZ 527... I emailed CZ and got this reply back:
"The CZ 527 models after 2017 will have adjustable sights, which requires you to loosen one screw before tightening the other. The only tool that should be required for these is a 1.5mm Allen Key.
For the front sight, it pivots on a central pin much like a see-saw. For example, if you want to move the sight up then you will have to first loosen the top screw and then tighten the bottom screw which are located on the front side of the sight ramp. This will allow enough space for the bottom screw to push the sight upwards when tightened.
On the rear sight, you will also have to loosen the screw at the opposite side of where you want the sight to move. This is from the two set screws pushing on a central bar, so that the screw in the direction you want the sight to move can push against. For example, if you want to move the sight towards the right, loosen the left side first then tighten the right side.
Hopefully this clears up how the sights are able to be adjusted. Note that there is no pre-determined adjustment for how much the sight needs to move, and that the maximum recommended torque for the set screws is 15 in/lbs.
If you do not have a torque wrench, it is best to finger tighten the screws by holding the Allen key with the short end so that you do not apply too much leverage to the tool.
Should you have an older model that does not have adjustment screws then it will be a more difficult process as the rear sight is press-fit and staked in place, with the front sight having replaceable blades."
Also, I had the opportunity to shoot my CZ today and I LOVE IT! Nice manageable recoil (will be getting a limbsaver pad for longer range sessions, but for hunting it's just fine without it.) Group are tight as all get out. My father was punching overlapping holes and he's 77 years old!
Seems that a little downward pressure on the bolt is needed when the mag is loaded to full capacity to help slide the rounds in glassy smooth. By rounds 3,2, and 1 less downward pressure on the bolt is needed.
Nice deep firing pin marks on the primers. I think that this rifle may fire american brass just fine, but I don't have any at the moment.
I am really pleased with this rifle. CZ did an outstanding job and I love the iron sights! The Synthetic stock is actually really nice as well. It has a little bit of a tacky texture, which probably helps keep your grip when wet or sweaty.
Well, guess I'm a commie-30 lover now. I may have to go buy an AK at some point. :)
Cheers CZ you made an awesome bolt gun!
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My CZ527 Carbine had loose sights when I got it last year. I just watched some Youtube and re-adjusted and tightened them. The rifle is very nice to shoot and points flawlessly. Am now looking at the peep sights some peeple are using. Very sweet rifle.
Stephen
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My CZ527 Carbine had loose sights when I got it last year. I just watched some Youtube and re-adjusted and tightened them. The rifle is very nice to shoot and points flawlessly. Am now looking at the peep sights some peeple are using. Very sweet rifle.
Stephen
Did you add the rear peep sight?
I just bought this rifle, and though I haven't shot it yet, a rear-mounted peep sight seems like a good idea.
However, does the front sight have enough adjustability to compensate for a higher mounted rear peep sight?
Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
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The NGC Ghost Ring is now on my rifle and I really like the set up. It bolts right on with nearly zero fuss. Made a very good rifle a fantastic rifle.
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The NGC Ghost Ring is now on my rifle and I really like the set up. It bolts right on with nearly zero fuss. Made a very good rifle a fantastic rifle.
Did you have to adjust the front sight?
Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk
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No, I just mounted the ghost ring and used the co-witness to adjust the aperture height. Then I removed the rear sight. Later, I went to the range to fine tune it. I did not have to mess with the front sight. It's a really nice sight system.
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Update: I now have the CZ527 Carbine in 223, also. Both have the peep sights mentioned above. And, as above, another fantastic rifle.
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I’ve picked up the Tactical model and have issues with light strikes with the brass ammo made by Belom in Serbia. It is very accurate ammo so I wanted to try a stronger spring by J and J custom.
My firing pin assembly looks different compared to any YouTube videos. I’m attaching the photo. Can some tell me how to take this apart in order to replace the spring? As you can see, there is a “washer” at the bottom that retains the spring where as on every video I’ve watched there is a cylindrical “sleeve”. Any ideas? Thank you
https://imgur.com/a/SrgrPUj
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Yeap that is a newer style. All I can offer are a couple of ideas. Is the forward part of the spring retained by a split washer similar to the Glock Striker Cup halves? And one other possibility, on the old style firing pin assembly the cocking piece was held on to the firing pin by a cross pin. Is the pin still there and does it look to now also work as the spring retainer? My two best guesses so far. Good Luck
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Yes it looks like a split washer. I tried putting that washer in my vise, but I couldn't get a good enough grip w the soft jaws so I gave up.
Also, there is a pin and I tried to push it with a punch, but I didn't pound on it with the hemmer either. Felt solid....I will call CZ as I don't want to make more damage.
Would like to get some ideas on polishing up the inside "tube" on the bolt where the firing pin rides....that might help some.
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Maybe try also asking J and J Custom if anyone else has come up against the newer style firing pin assembly. They should have an idea on how to get there product where it needs to be. At least you would hope so.