The Original CZ Forum
GENERAL => General Discussion => Topic started by: cotignola on May 16, 2020, 11:09:32 AM
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Hello,
New guy with new guy questions. I planning to do some upgrades to my CZ75 SP-01 Tactical such as installing the CGW 54420 Ultra-Lite Kit, grips and maybe other things in the future. I have been looking at these two bench blocks and I would like to get some feedback: CZ Customs ($47.50) vs. Wheeler Universal ($18.99).
CZ Customs: https://czcustom.com/cz-bench-block.html
Wheeler: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1006552422?pid=265720
Question:
1) Will either one work well?
2) Should I spend the extra money on the CZ Customs block?
3) Should I consider anything else?
Please let me know if you have any thoughts and thank you for your time.
Regards,
MAC
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you should provide links to each block, so we can see each one.
cuz i ain't about to start searching thru web sites for what you want.
for instance, i got this one at Amazon, after Brownell's screwed up my order a few weeks ago.
https://www.amazon.com/Pridefend-Pistol-Gunsmith-Maintenance-Armorers/dp/B083Q318LD/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2IVDQSYQX5Y55&dchild=1&keywords=gunsmithing+bench+block&qid=1589645442&sprefix=gunsmithing+bench%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-9
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I've found having the brand specific block can help a lot for some tasks. I have a universal, CZ Customs and Beretta bench blocks and use them all. The biggest help is having the right block for the slide and frame you're working on, for example installing a "G" kit on a Beretta 92 or swapping levers on a PX4 is much easier with the Beretta Block. Driving pins out to install trigger parts is easier with holes in the just right places on the CZ Customs block.
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If you are going to be working on allot of CZs the CZC bench block may be worth it. It has a special cut out for the hammer as well as a cutout for holding the slide. I have one but i work on CZs frequently.
For a single CZ i think any universal bench block will work fine. Even a roll of tape has done the job for many a CZ home gunsmith.
A note on working on CZ decockers. It is all about preparation and patience. Read the guides then read them again. Take your time and do not be a in a hurry to get to the range the next day or week in some cases. Acquire the necessary tools for the job, looks like you are already on top of this one.
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I uses a generic real avid bench block and it worked fine for installation CGW pro package.
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I have a "universal" Real Avid bench block I ordered off of Amazon a few years ago and have used it for most of the work I have done on my pistols and rifles, driving pins in or out.
I more recently got a "universal" Lyman bench block which has a very similar design, but is quite a bit larger, just to have a more stable base for certain things.
The only CZ's I work on are P-07's so the CZ Custom bench block wouldn't help me with that anyway.
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Thank you all for the feedback. I updated the bench blocks with the links (sorry about that ... I should have thought about it before).
I will look into the Real Avid & Lyman!
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A note on working on CZ decockers. It is all about preparation and patience. Read the guides then read them again. Take your time and do not be a in a hurry to get to the range the next day or week in some cases. Acquire the necessary tools for the job, looks like you are already on top of this one.
Thank you for the feedback. I have been reading & watching many videos. I am planning to start small, the Firing Pin Retaining Pin seems to be most difficult task. I am nowhere near to tackle the trigger or the hammer yet :-)
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you should provide links to each block, so we can see each one.
cuz i ain't about to start searching thru web sites for what you want.
Thank you ... my bad!
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I don’t remember what brand it is but I have a cheap circular black bench block I bought from Amazon for about $15 and I’ve worked on a P365, CZ75 PreB, just about any CZ “Clone” you could possibly name and got the job done. Even if a less expensive option doesn’t necessarily fit the gun parts you need it to you could always trim and modify it to work. And if you mess it up doing so you can just buy another. Just my thoughts.
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you should provide links to each block, so we can see each one.
cuz i ain't about to start searching thru web sites for what you want.
Thank you ... my bad!
they both will do the job. personally, i'd go with the universal one, if in the future you are going to get different brands of guns.
if you stay with CZ however as your go to gun with each purchase, then get the CZ specific block.
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I have both of those. The Wheeler is set up as "universal" which means it has a lot of 1911 specific functions.
The CZ Custom version has a really good CZ specific functions.
I use both on CZs and non-CZs. Either will work.
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Hmmm... looks I'm going to name myself "a lamer" ;D ;D ;D
I've been using electrical tape as bench block... :-X
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Hmmm... looks I'm going to name myself "a lamer" ;D ;D ;D
I've been using electrical tape as bench block... :-X
If it gets the job done then no harm no foul.
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If it gets the job done then no harm no foul.
Needed it for firing pin retaining pin and extractor pin only... Yes, it worked perfectly.
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If it gets the job done then no harm no foul.
Needed it for firing pin retaining pin and extractor pin only... Yes, it worked perfectly.
I used a roll of 2" masking tape to hold my P-01 slide for my first pro-kit install. I actually like it better than my Wheeler universal block for removing the FPRP. Several years later that roll of tape is still in my box of gun tools - it has lots of holes in it.
Back then, that CZC bench block seemed like a lot of money to spend, so I bought the wheeler. Fast forward a few years and it's nothing compared to what I've spent on other gun smiting tools. I don't know anybody with only one CZ, and of those, if you have one with cajun parts the rest are soon to follow. I'd buy the CZC block and a roll of tape.
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2" roll of masking tape and or a hockey puck with a few holes drilled in it is alot cheaper!
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I keep looking at/thinking about getting one of those. I piddle around with guns all the time.
Up to now, what I've used is the piece of wood you see in the middle of the AR15 bolt parts and punches. The screw sticking up is used to help me push/hold the ejector in the AR15 bolt when I drive the roll pin it enough to hold the ejector in place. It doubles (first reason for install it) as a place to put the CZ pistol hammer spring cup on while pushing down on the frame so it's easy to push the pin in that holds the cup in place. Edited to add - forgot about the hole (that you can't see due to the angle/light) I used to drive the pins into when I'm driving them out of the slide, frame, hammer, front sight/frame, etc.
(https://i.imgur.com/UztWMBRl.jpg)
Amazon is easy. I think I'll order one of those blocks while it's on my mind.
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I keep looking at/thinking about getting one of those. I piddle around with guns all the time.
Up to now, what I've used is the piece of wood you see in the middle of the AR15 bolt parts and punches. The screw sticking up is used to help me push/hold the ejector in the AR15 bolt when I drive the roll pin it enough to hold the ejector in place. It doubles (first reason for install it) as a place to put the CZ pistol hammer spring cup on while pushing down on the frame so it's easy to push the pin in that holds the cup in place. Edited to add - forgot about the hole (that you can't see due to the angle/light) I used to drive the pins into when I'm driving them out of the slide, frame, hammer, front sight/frame, etc.
(https://i.imgur.com/UztWMBRl.jpg)
Amazon is easy. I think I'll order one of those blocks while it's on my mind.
Thank you!!!
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A wood block is just about perfect but a tacking hammer? It might be genius...
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For years I was content using a hunk of 2X4, but upgraded after my neighbors kid put a hockey puck through my basement window. He offered to pay for the window, but I told him we'd be even if I could keep the puck. A few different sized holes, some chamfering, and table saw work - Voila, bench block ! An old geezer like me doesn't need much more more precision than that anyway .
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The small hammer works, for some things.
A couple/three years ago I remember someone here talking about a "big hammer".
Using a small hammer works, for some things (sorry, had to say it again) but sometimes you need a bigger hammer. I went out and bought a 2 lb. shop hammer with a little 10" handle on it for when I need a bigger hammer.
Small hammers, to move something tough, need to move faster. Small hammer face, small punch, small pin, sometimes = oops!!
Big hammer, to move something tough, doesn't need to move so fast. Big hammer face, small punch, small pin = much more hammer face to help you not miss that small punch.
That little hammer works fine on the AR15 bolt (extractor/ejector pins). Pain in the butt on the CZ hammer/disconnector pins. That's what the big hammer is for. Sometimes you run into a real stubborn factory trigger pin on a CZ75.
When I clean a pistol I lube internally, put it back together, load it (if it's a carry/around the house pistol) and then use a drop of lube in the front sight pin, extractor pin, firing pin retaining pin, grip screws, mag. release, rear sight set screw, rear sight dovetail, hammer pin, etc. - any place moisture/sweat can work into the interior of the pistol and cause rust issues. Then I wipe it off with the same oily cloth used to wipe the surface down before I put it away. So far, I've not found a pin rusted/stuck in one of my CZs. They seem to drive out pretty easily (except for those darn disconnector/hammer spring guide pins).
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The small hammer works, for some things.
A couple/three years ago I remember someone here talking about a "big hammer".
Using a small hammer works, for some things (sorry, had to say it again) but sometimes you need a bigger hammer. I went out and bought a 2 lb. shop hammer with a little 10" handle on it for when I need a bigger hammer.
Small hammers, to move something tough, need to move faster. Small hammer face, small punch, small pin, sometimes = oops!!
Big hammer, to move something tough, doesn't need to move so fast. Big hammer face, small punch, small pin = much more hammer face to help you not miss that small punch.
That little hammer works fine on the AR15 bolt (extractor/ejector pins). Pain in the butt on the CZ hammer/disconnector pins. That's what the big hammer is for. Sometimes you run into a real stubborn factory trigger pin on a CZ75.
When I clean a pistol I lube internally, put it back together, load it (if it's a carry/around the house pistol) and then use a drop of lube in the front sight pin, extractor pin, firing pin retaining pin, grip screws, mag. release, rear sight set screw, rear sight dovetail, hammer pin, etc. - any place moisture/sweat can work into the interior of the pistol and cause rust issues. Then I wipe it off with the same oily cloth used to wipe the surface down before I put it away. So far, I've not found a pin rusted/stuck in one of my CZs. They seem to drive out pretty easily (except for those darn disconnector/hammer spring guide pins).
Thank you for the reply. I got a 8lbs Grace hammer & a much smaller hammer ... I am guessing 2lbs hammer in my electronic repair set from iFixit.
I will follow the practice to oil the pins on a regular basis!!!
Taker care,
MAC
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Thank you for the reply. I got a 8 lbs Grace hammer . .
Well, that ought to be big enough, just try not to crush your hand (or your firearm) if you miss! O0
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Thank you for the reply. I got a 8 lbs Grace hammer . .
Well, that ought to be big enough, just try not to crush your hand (or your firearm) if you miss! O0
:) :) :)
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I will mention one other thing, well, maybe, two.
1. Get a set of starter punches. When you get down into the small diameter punches (like for the front sight roll pin) it is so easy to bend the shaft on the punch you might want to order spares for your spares. A short shaft (1/2" or so) will get that pin moving without nearly the risk of bending and when it gets to the point in pin movement that you need the longer punch the pin is moving much easier by then.
2. The roll pin punches. Ignored them for years and then I got a set. Definitely should have bought them years ago.
3. Roll pin starter punches. Another thing I ignored when I was more ignorant. Used to tape a piece of thin cardboard to the left side of the AR receivers, grab a pair of needle nosed pliers to hold the bolt catch pin, grab the punch, grab the hammer and try to hold onto the pliers, the punch and the hammer while driving the pin into place. Now I grab the roll pin starter punch (the right size), insert the roll pin into the end, put the other end of the roll pin on the hole in the receiver and tap the end of the punch with that small hammer. Easy to see when it gets almost in there and I need to replace the starter punch with the standard roll pin punch. And much easier to do with only two hands.
Ended up being three things, didn't it.
Dang it, I'm wondering when I'm going to get my bench block I ordered the other day. I'd have figured it would be here by now since the Amazon warehouse is only about 15 miles from here.
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Good advise on the roll pin tools. I would add the sectioned D-shaped pin punch when working with the AR platform. That and a little blue tape keeps your receiver looking good while working on the bolt release.
Amazon is running a little slower these days.
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... Ended up being three things, didn't it.
Dang it, I'm wondering when I'm going to get my bench block I ordered the other day. I'd have figured it would be here by now since the Amazon warehouse is only about 15 miles from here.
In a way it was really still just one thing - "having the right tools makes the job easier - e.g. starter punches, roll pin punches and roll pin starter punches"
Amazon has been very slow lately. An order placed in April took over 3 weeks. They offered to speed it up by 2 days if I would sign up for Prime.