The Original CZ Forum
GENERAL => General Firearms Discussion => Topic started by: tomboyjr on February 11, 2021, 10:19:09 AM
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A comment on another post got me thinking about this. How is everyone storing their guns?
I recently bought a 'real' safe, and I have my handguns in the factory cases or boxes stacked inside. I always wipe them down before putting them away. It was mentioned that storing them in that way could case some rusting from moisture being trapped.
So whats everyone here doing about keeping their guns rust free in storage?
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I don't think storing them in their cases causes an issue if they are cleaned and lubed but I think it's just something some people over worry about. I do not however store my guns in my safe in any other type of vessel simply because it just takes up too much space.
I store my guns cleaned and lubed and wiped down with a slightly oily rag and I have no corrosion issues at all. Where your safe is located and the humidity in that area is what you have to watch for. If the humidity is high or the temp fluctuates considerably then I'd consider a dehumidifier for the safe or maybe even a stand alone unit to normalize the entire room. If possible don't have the safe against an outside wall as that can affect temp.
Mine is located in the center of a room that maintains a nice dry 70 deg. temp year round.
Most guns are pretty robust though and unless they're subjected to some really bad neglect they tend to hold up really well. I have several old blued S&W revolvers that My dad carried on duty for decades and they were out in pretty nasty weather quite often yet they still look real good all these years later.
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I have a steel gun safe in an indoor temperature-controlled room. It isn't the thick-walled kind to withstand a fire, so it isn't airtight, and not as susceptible to condensation issues as a fire safe. I also have a couple of smaller fire safes but they are mainly for documents and so forth, not firearms. I keep a big desiccant pack in each of those. My "gun collection" isn't extensive or made up of collectible guns... so I see my gun safe as more of a big toolbox.
Long guns and handguns are in there uncased and not in a gun sock or anything, in the open air. If a handgun is in there loaded, it's in some kind of synthetic holster.
Inside that safe, I also have some plastic ammo boxes for storing ammo. I have a desiccant pack in each plastic ammo box.
I also have a quick-open pistol safe of similar construction, with a couple of holstered handguns I use for carry and home defense.
I use a combination of rust protectants on my guns, with Eezox being the primary one used on barrels and pistol slides, and Hornady Oneshot being the one used in polymer pistol frames, rifle trigger assemblies, etc.
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Believe this or not.
I once kept several WW1/WW2 03/03A3/03A4/M1917 rifles in their soft zipper cases for 8 years without dragging them out of the attic. Attic = hot and humid as hell in the summer and cold/damp in the winter. When I got them out and removed them from the cases many of them still had wet looking surfaces (oil from the wipe down 8 years before) on portions of the metal. No rust, anywhere inside or outside. I took them out of the stocks/for ends and wiped everything down again before putting them back in the cases and back in the attic.
My M29 S&W got wiped down in the mid 80's and put on a shelf in the attic. I pulled it down 5 or 6 years ago and the blue foam looking stuff that was lining the presentation wood case had sort of rotted away. Stuck to the gun, fragmented in the case. I wiped the fragments of foam off the blued surfaces and they were as shiny and pretty as they were 20 plus years prior when I'd wiped it down and put it away.
I have guns in the safe that have not been pulled out/wiped down in 7 or 8 years but they sure looked good the last time I had them out and wiped them down so wiping them down with oily rags/cloths and running an oily patch down the barrel seems to work.
After you wipe one down with an oily rag - you don't touch the metal again when you put it away. If you touch it, you wipe it down again (talking about blued and parkerized finishes here. But I even wipe down the stainless pistols and Mini-14 - if I handle them.
I remember my father-in-law getting really pissed about pulling his old Browning .22 take down rifle out of the corner behind the door and finding rust on the barrel around the front sight. He was really upset. He blamed it on spider crap. Yup. He said a spider had crapped on his rifle barrel and rusted it. My mother-in-law believed him. I'd seen him clean his rifles, wipe them down and then grab them by the muzzle end to sit them in the corner too many times not to know it was just his skin/oil/salts, etc. that rusted barrel, right there where he grabbed it.
Blame rust on whatever you want to blame it on if you don't take good care of your tools.
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I wipe mine with a silicone cloth and store them individually in VCI Rust Prevention Anti Tarnish Zip Lock Storage Packaging Bags from Amazon and then place them in their original boxes. Probably overkill but I am sort of anal about some stuff like this.
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Desiccant bags are cheap protection...one in every case and ammo can.
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Small electric strip heater inside the safe to keep the temp above the surrounding air temp thus above the dew point. After cleaning and oiling, guns go in the slightly warmer safe.
Joe
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A comment on another post got me thinking about this. How is everyone storing their guns?
I recently bought a 'real' safe, and I have my handguns in the factory cases or boxes stacked inside. I always wipe them down before putting them away. It was mentioned that storing them in that way could case some rusting from moisture being trapped.
So whats everyone here doing about keeping their guns rust free in storage?
mine get cleaned, lubed, and wiped down with mineral oil.
then each gun is put into a soft carry pouch,(Allen brand) i buy at walmart.
then they all get put into the closet.
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Foam lined boxes will make your guns rust , oiled and in the safe for me!
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fwiw/ime
where i live its not dry for months...
but i have stored my guns in OEM boxes and gun rags, and so far no issues. i will usually give a wipe down with an oily rag, but thats about it.
i did get a spot of rust on one of my rifles' barrel where it rested against the rest in the safe. dont know how that happened since the other rifles next to it didnt have any issues. Maybe a rust gremlin.
but i think you need to look at where you live and do what you need to do.
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"Gun safes" questionable materials/construction are the primary cause of many corrosion issues.
WHY DO GUNS RUST SO FAST IN GUN SAFES?
Modern gun safes are built with a thin steel shell, lined with gypsum board (drywall) and then carpeted. To understand the corrosion issues you have to look at the chemicals contained in these materials and how they react.
FORMALDEHYDE: CH2O
Formaldehyde is used in drywall manufacturing. It is a dispersing agent used in drywall slurry. These dispersing agents are called sulfonated naphthalene-formaldehyde condensates. As the term implies, these formulations involve a combination of formaldehyde and naphthalene. The agents vaporize in your safe, creating a potentially caustic environment for metal and wood. Museums ban the use of formaldehyde in areas where artifacts are stored. Formaldehyde is also in the adhesive used to attach the carpet interior in most safes.
Sandvik laboratory test results for CH2O (formaldehyde) and carbon steel: corrosion rate over 1.0 mm/year. ~ Serious corrosion. The material is not usable.
ELEMENTAL SULFUR: S
Sulfur is found in drywall particularly from China. Sulfur reacts with trace amounts of water (humidity) to form hydrogen sulfide and sulfuric acid.
PYRITE:
Pyrite (iron sulfide) also known as “fool’s gold” is a very common mineral. It is present in the gypsum mined to make drywall. There are small amounts in gypsum in the U.S. and much larger amounts in gypsum mined in China. The pyrite ends up in the drywall. While this is not a big deal when it comes to home construction, you do not want it in your gun safe. Pyrite (Iron sulfide) reacts with oxygen and water to form iron and sulfur in the forms of iron oxide-hydroxide (rust) and sulfuric acids.
Sulfuric acid is particularly aggressive when it comes to corroding metal.
FERROOXIDANS – BACTERIA
This is a type of bacteria that eats metal. It lives on the pyrite in the drywall. It is this bacterium that breaks down pyrite into iron hydroxide and sulfur-based acids. However, it doesn’t stop there. Ferrooxidans will consume many other metals. Ferrooxidan bacterium is used in mining operations to strip metals in low-grade ore.
Does your gun safe ever smell like sulfur?
Next time you open a safe, see if you detect a slight earthy or sulfur smell. It’s there and gets stronger the longer the door has been closed. I have noticed it, particularly in cheap safes on the sales floor in some big-box sport discount stores. That smell is the above processes in action and it will cause gun rust very quickly.
As you can see, there is very good reason for all the corrosion control products in the safe industry. Modern gypsum (drywall) based gun safes are corrosive.
Why use drywall? It is cheap, easy to use and heavy. The weight is important. The gun safe industry wants their safes to be heavy. People think that heavy safes are “safer”. However, it’s smoke and mirrors designed to hide the fact that the industry has moved away from traditional safe designs. Modern gun safes are built to the UL Class RSC standard and are not, according to UL, a true safe.
So how did we get here?
How did the gun safe industry end up producing a product that can destroy the very item it is designed to protect?
It started in the late 1970s. Up until then, gun safes were based on the original design of Silas Herring. He used a sandwich design of thick outer steel, thin inner steel, and plaster or cement in the middle. This has been the standard fireproof safe design for over 100 years. In the 1980s the gun safe market started growing and as demand for safes grew, a bunch of new companies entered the market. To reduce costs and speed production, these new producers dropped the original Silas Herring design in favor of cheaper, lighter materials.
They eliminated the thick outer steel. They eliminated the plaster or cement filler. The thin inner steel cabinet became the outside steel box. They lined this thin walled box with drywall then carpeted over it. This is the modern gun safe.
When these changes occurred UL (Underwriters Laboratories) created a new classification. Class RSC–Residential Security Container. The RSC is the standard gun safe sold in most stores throughout America.
If you have purchased a gun safe made after 1980 it is most likely a UL Class RSC. It is drywall based and subject to all the corrosion issues above. Your best defense against corrosion is still well-cleaned and well-lubricated firearms. It is important to open the door regularly and let your safe air out. This will reduce the corrosive sulfur compound buildup. Dehumidifiers slow the process by lowering humidity, but they don’t stop it.
REMOVAL OF CORROSIVE MATERIALS.
The interior of a gun safe can be removed and replaced with safer materials. Products like SBI Micore-300 can be used to replace the drywall. However, this is an extensive modification and will take some time and skill to properly fit and install the new fire board.
How do you avoid all this? Do not buy a gun safe with drywall or carpeting. That eliminates just about every safe sold in America. Otherwise, Ft. Knox, Browning, American Security, and a few boutique producers offer safe models with the Herring double walled steel design. These models do offer some security and modest fire protection, and the inner steel will provide good corrosion protection. These safes start at around $10,000 and go up to 20K+.
More: https://www.secureitgunstorage.com/gun-safe-corrosion/
FWIW, I do increasingly think SecureIt's gun cabinets/safes are the way to go. Granted, I'd suggest building their safe into the wall of a secure closet or gun room and reinforcing its exterior -- everything but door, so sides and back and top and bottom (bottom if not on concrete), with a metal framed wall reinforced with with fireboard and/or concrete block, thick plywood or 1"+ AdvanTech subflooring, and maybe also metal diamond mesh -- differing materials the more difficult it is to penetrate and also providing most of the same fire protection you'd get from those $10k+ safes referenced above for much cheaper.
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*But regardless of where you store your guns, G96 is one of the best preservatives -- if storing you want a "preservative" not a "lubricant."
(http://2284373.sites.myregisteredsite.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/Gun-Treatment-12oz-105x300.png)
My understanding is that it adheres to metal similar to how PB blaster penetrates rust to release bolts -- but G96 smells pleasant. A BCM AR upper was the first shipment I received where this was used.
G96 “Triple Action” Gun Treatment ® is the finest most complete firearms product made. It Cleans, Lubricates, and Protects your gun in one operation. No solvent or preservation necessary.
Available in 12 oz. and 4.5 oz. aerosol spray cans.
G96 stock # 1055 (4.5 oz.) and 1055P (12 oz.)
Cleans Your Gun: Contains solvents which will completely remove all traces of rust, gun powder, leading, and corrosion in seconds.
Lubricates Your Gun: Contains lubricants which will not freeze, oxidize, or evaporate (the result of missile research). Leaves no gummy residue. Keeps firing pin and all moving parts working as low as -50F below zero; insures perfect firing every time.
Protects Your Gun: Leaves invisible magnetic film over all metal parts which protects your gun against rust under all weather conditions, even salt water spray. Protects frequently handled guns against “fingerprint” damage. This is the single and best gun care maintenance product ever designed to solve a gun owner’s cleaning, lubricating and corrosion protection problems. A unique formulation of active lubricants will not freeze, oxidize or evaporate. Designed with a pleasant odor, this gun treatment is assured perfect firing from 50 F below zero to 350 F.
Safe for use on polymers.
http://www.g96.com/products/gun-treatment/
Can buy it on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/G96-Complete-Triple-Action-Gun-Treatment-dp-B006EE0OUC/dp/B006EE0OUC/
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Welp, since you asked...............
Firearm starts like this. Cleaned, lubricated and exterior wiped down with EEZOX
(https://i.imgur.com/fh3lLo5.jpg?2)
Once EEZOX is dry, placed in a breathable canvas bag with napped interior. Mine are from a company called Muzzle Nuzzle but unfortunately they are no longer in business. I store my rifles in these bags as well.
(https://i.imgur.com/3Q2w7Bl.jpg?2)
Then into a homemade wood box
(https://i.imgur.com/ZIvG45S.jpg?3)
And finally stacked like this in one of my wood shelved gun safes with golden-rod dehumidifiers.
(https://i.imgur.com/8qDS9Rs.jpg?1)
All my pistols are bagged & boxed the same way, above pic is simply a sampling.
YMMV
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I do a lot of thinking and I thought of this method although I have not tried it. It is a method to remove all corrosion causing elements and compounds from harming the gun. What is rust? It is ferric oxide, a compound of iron and oxygen. The formation of that compound is catalyzed by water. If you remove oxygen and water and protect the gun from the other harmful compounds named in posts above then in theory you will have a safe gun for many years. Here is the method:
Get the thickest large ziploc bag you can find. Like the large thick heavy ones that come in some cases of bulk ammo and make sure it well seal airtight. Buy a helium tank from wal-mart or some other vendor. Place the gun in the the large ziploc bag and push out as much air as you can and zip it closed except for about a half inch at one end. Hold the ziploc bag with the gun inside so that the corner where you left it unzipped for a half inch or so is at the bottom. The bag will be upside down and that corner will be at the lowest point - this is important. Attach a rubber tube to the helium container and the other end of the tube you insert into the bag through the small opening at the bottom. Let the helium flow into the bag. The use of helium is two fold - it it lighter than any other gas in the bag and it will rise to the top and displace the heavier air which will exit through the opening at the bottom and it is also an inert gas. Since it is an inert gas it does not react with other elements or compounds and this will not harm the metals or steels in the gun in any way. Once you have filled the bag with helium and displaced all the heavier gases or compounds that cause rust or other corrosion then zip bag closed completely. Your gun is now in a safe environment.
Like I said, I haven't actually tried this but it seems like a plausible way to keep harmful elements and compounds away from the gun. It will only work with guns small enough to fit in the ziploc bag but I have seen some large bags of about two gallon size that come in cases of bulk ammo and the walls of the bag are much thicker and stronger than the ziploc bags made for food storage.
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I do a lot of thinking and I thought of this method although I have not tried it. It is a method to remove all corrosion causing elements and compounds from harming the gun. What is rust? It is ferric oxide, a compound of iron and oxygen. The formation of that compound is catalyzed by water. If you remove oxygen and water and protect the gun from the other harmful compounds named in posts above then in theory you will have a safe gun for many years.
[...]
FWIW, neither formaldehyde nor the bacteria outlined above require significant moisture to cause damage.
There are already gun storage bags made -- but I'd think a good oil and some desiccant certainly wouldn't hurt (desiccant particularly helps eliminate any condensation as temps change): https://www.zerustproducts.com/products/firearms-ammo-weapons/vci-gun-storage-bags/
I'd think nitrogen might be easier to come by and work similar to and possibly better than helium. The problem however is that helium being significantly lighter than air has a tendency to escape as anyone with a mylar balloon can see over a few days. Nitrogen has larger molecules by about 1/3 IIRC and also has a much heavier molecular weight -- both serving to slow the rate of dispersion and making less of a delta between the pure gas in the bag and outside air.
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A comment on another post got me thinking about this. How is everyone storing their guns?
I recently bought a 'real' safe, and I have my handguns in the factory cases or boxes stacked inside. I always wipe them down before putting them away. It was mentioned that storing them in that way could case some rusting from moisture being trapped.
So whats everyone here doing about keeping their guns rust free in storage?
pad wan.
Iirc from my chemistry/materials classes..a short lecture...fyi
EVERYTHING wants to find the lowest state of happiness - EQUILIBRIUM !
So, your gun and the metal parts want to find that happy place and that will probably mean going back to iron ore. You are just fighting time and in the end, you will loose if you live long enough.
Since you are from the USA and TN, do you have any friends? Maybe shooting friends? how about co-workers or relatives that shoot? Or maybe any gun rental ranges? Ask them what they do and see if you want to try it or go your own path. Since they live where you live, chances are they will or have experienced what in store for you.
If you are going to try anythings to apply on your toy, i would remove your grip panels and apply a dab under it or in your mag well or on your mag if they are the same base material. If it damages/removes the finish, then i wouldn't use. You can use this idea on anything you think you want to try.
if my guns are used out in the elements or even if its under a canopy when its raining, when i get home, i will open the gun case whatever it is and let it "dry" out for 1 week. Then the gun will be left out and i will remove the grip panels. If im going to clean, i will clean, but for the most part try to let any moisture on/in the gun evaporate. Then i will wipe down with an oily cloth and then put away until the next time.
good luck
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I store all guns in a safe. Most handguns are on racks. Rifles are on end in the built in rifle rack area. For the guns that are just collectable for me, they are coated in gun oil and are pretty wet. The guns I use such as my EDC are cleaned as needed. The factory boxes are all thrown in a box in the attic. I keep them for if I ever sell a gun, or for moving purposes.
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Welp, since you asked...............
Firearm starts like this. Cleaned, lubricated and exterior wiped down with EEZOX
(https://i.imgur.com/fh3lLo5.jpg?2)
Once EEZOX is dry, placed in a breathable canvas bag with napped interior. Mine are from a company called Muzzle Nuzzle but unfortunately they are no longer in business. I store my rifles in these bags as well.
(https://i.imgur.com/3Q2w7Bl.jpg?2)
Then into a homemade wood box
(https://i.imgur.com/ZIvG45S.jpg?3)
And finally stacked like this in one of my wood shelved gun safes with golden-rod dehumidifiers.
(https://i.imgur.com/8qDS9Rs.jpg?1)
All my pistols are bagged & boxed the same way, above pic is simply a sampling.
YMMV
That's an awesome system! 8)
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For over 20 years I have been storing my pistols on rubber coated wire racks. I apply a thin coat of Rem oil every 2 years and place them on the racks. I use a Golden Rod and a 1-2 dehumidifiers for the summer months. I have a humidity gauge in each safe and check them. Never had rust problems.
(https://i.imgur.com/TAQTNm8.jpg)
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For over 20 years I have been storing my pistols on rubber coated wire racks. I apply a thin coat of Rem oil every 2 years and place them on the racks. I use a Golden Rod and a 1-2 dehumidifiers for the summer months. I have a humidity gauge in each safe and check them. Never had rust problems.
Can I come visit some time?? Your safe is neater than my safe!! :) :)
Joe
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I keep my handguns in original factory cases. After cleaning and lubing, I wrap them with cloth and put small silicon bag (used fe. with medicine) into the case.
I stack the cases in network rack above all devices and servers to keep them warm and ventilated.
That's a great thing to be IT in your own house :D
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I store all of mine in my Superior Gun Safe, with a Golden Rod dehumidifier installed. All guns are wiped down with CLP and I strategically place at least four Zerust VC2-2 NoRust Vapor Capsules in the safe. The Zerust capsules are replaced every two years or sooner.
Pistols are stored in Hyskore closed cell foam modular pistol racks. Original manufacturer gun cases are boxed and stored in a closet.
Lately as space is becoming more and more crowded, I've purchased gun socks impregnated with Vapor Corrosion Inhibitor (VCI) for all of the long guns to prevent nicks and scratches from storing. It seems silicon gun socks are more plentiful, but I've heard that silicon can seal in moisture leading to damage over a period of time. The gun socks are a PIA, but if they prevent damage, it's worth it.
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I keep mine in ammo cans. I made compartments out of that coarse black foam material so two cz handguns are stored vertically. I place them loosely in food bags to keep the oil away from the foam. I place a 6" desiccant bag in each can and even in the ones with only ammo. And I tape a humidity indicator card to the underside of the lid to let me know when to recharge the desiccants.
So here, mineral oil, gun oil, silicone and others were mentioned as a finishing polycoat wipe before storage. I guess most use gun oil. For a long time, I didn't use anything as a finishing wipe on the outside... just kept the polycoat bone dry, but I recently started using a rag with Hoppe's regular non-synthetic oil. But it seems the mineral oil would be a better option because it would be non reactive to the polycoat. Any reason not to use mineral oil?
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if I am storing a gun for a long period they are cleaned and before put in the safe they are wiped down with a heavy coat of Johnson's floor wax. Rust requires three chemicals in order to form: iron, oxygen, and water. the floor wax creates a film to keep air ( oxygen and humidity) away from the metal. it works for me, you mileage may very.
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A comment on another post got me thinking about this. How is everyone storing their guns?
I recently bought a 'real' safe, and I have my handguns in the factory cases or boxes stacked inside. I always wipe them down before putting them away. It was mentioned that storing them in that way could case some rusting from moisture being trapped.
So whats everyone here doing about keeping their guns rust free in storage?
just an fyi,
many things in life are relative.
i live in PDX and there as you may know, its not a dry place.
what i do will depend on what i have planned for the gun.
> if i plan to shoot it alot (again relative) then it will live outside on a shelf. It may get wiped down between shoots and sometimes it may not. My SS guns dont get allot of TLC since it doesnt require much.
> if a gun will be put away for a long time (again relative) then it will get a good strip down/disassembly (again relative) and then cleaned/oiled and if there is an OEM box, put back into the OEM box. If not, then into a gun rug with some Rust Inhibitor Paper.
> some of my guns that are of more value (again relative) will go into one of my safes.
> the ones that get used alot into the gun cabinets where they maybe stacked on top of each other with some foam padding between.
> my go to revolver lives in a holster with some speed loader and they are in a "handy" place. Again relative. A gun isnt of any good use if you cant get to it in a pinch.
im sure others do their own thing. You will want to look at your options and come up with your own thing too.
good luck
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For over 20 years I have been storing my pistols on rubber coated wire racks. I apply a thin coat of Rem oil every 2 years and place them on the racks. I use a Golden Rod and a 1-2 dehumidifiers for the summer months. I have a humidity gauge in each safe and check them. Never had rust problems.
(https://i.imgur.com/TAQTNm8.jpg)
Nice collection!
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I keep most of my guns locked in the safe. My home defense guns are locked in a biometric quick access safe. I used to keep my guns in the original cases but, like many, I’ve run out of room even though I bought a safe bigger than what I thought I’d need. ;D I just keep all the original cases stored in a box in my closet. I try to wipe down my guns before I put them back in the safe but I have a couple of cedar blocks and some corrosion inhibitors in there as well and have had no issues with rust.
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I have 2 safes in my garage and have always kept a heated piano rod in the safes to minimize moisture in them. Have live in Houston and now in Dallas and no issues because of the heating elements.
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WOW, lots of different storage plans and ideas here. Some even kind of anal-lol. I ended up taking all the handguns out of their boxes, wiping them real good, and putting them in several padded slotted storage racks that just sit on shelves in the safe. And one that just has 6 rods that stick in the barrel. Gives me a lot more room in there, thats for sure. And I have all the original boxes in a big storage container. Thanks for all the replies and ideas.
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Hi All-
I keep my gun safe in a place that is not temperature controlled so I keep all my guns in these things...
https://www.zerustproducts.com/products/firearms-ammo-weapons/vci-gun-storage-bags/
I have been using them for years and years.
I buy new ones about every 5 years and swap them out...
I keep my guns clean and tend to spray them down and wipe them off with Hornady One Shot before putting them in the bags.
JAG
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I inherited a bunch of guns at a time when I had no money for a huge safe to store them in and no time to keep up with them all. I had rust issues; it wasn't a super big deal since being with me was still luxury compared to their previous living conditions, but still you hate to see your guns get even any small rust under your care. I think being able to keep up with your collection is something people don't talk about.
Between me and dad we kept what was sentimental (aka just a couple) and sold the rest (the vast majority). I now have only a few guns, proper storage (used the funds from selling), and I am able to routinely check on their status and easily refresh oil as often as I want. I'm also actually shooting the guns I have remaining, so I'd quickly notice if there was issues. I really like this better than having dozens of dust collectors that I forget about for a year or more at a time. I always thought I'd slowly grow a big collection, but now I realize I'll probably always have a small pool of guns that I just shoot regularly and be much happier.
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DW06,
I completely agree. My interests have shifted toward a smaller collection that I won’t feel bad about shooting when I want. Between family and work I just don’t have the time to dedicate to maintaining a large collection.
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Yeah I figure I can always buy an interesting gun I find cheap used, play with it for awhile, then pass along at cost as well. 1 to 3 of those that I rotate through should be enough to supplement my small collection, if I ever even tire of what I have. My interest is defensively focused and I enjoy shooting more than collecting, so we'll see...
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I swapped in a Cajun Gun Works hammer and it took care of that issue fast. Trigger pull smoothed out and reset feels way better now. Made a big difference for me.
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I had the same issue with the grip being too short. Ended up getting extended base plates, and it made a big difference in handling. Also, if you're storing multiple setups like this and want quick access, you might want to buy gun safes (https://www.libertysafe.com/collections/gun-safes) that fit compact pistols better. Makes organization easier and keeps things secure without digging through a big safe every time.