The Original CZ Forum
CZ PISTOL CLUBS => Compact CZ 75s => Topic started by: JMWalker on April 28, 2023, 06:12:47 PM
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CGW posted a new instructional video on how to disassemble and reassemble CZ75 decockers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUTEmpSx4zU
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wow, this is why I use a gunsmith
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Great video thanks for sharing..
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wow, this is why I use a gunsmith
Hahahaha, I probably should have used a gunsmith. Im struggling right now. Kinda of like In the middle of a yard sale during a tornado. I’ll be on the phone on Monday. These decocker models are complicated. Look forward to
Speaking to the CJW smiths they are great on communication. Really like those dudes.
The videos are great, but I am in denial. I need reader glasses w magnification and a true understanding of the linguistic terms.
I’ll be better trained and with stronger vision when I’m done here.
Les
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CGW has made the CZ pistol a viable option for so many. CZ owes them a massive kickback.
CGW makes a great slave pin for the decocker sear cage, and I don't know why it is not used in this video. It makes things MUCH easier in both disassembly and in replacing the tiny parts.
The decocker sear cage is non-trivial, but doable. Hang in there.
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Hahahaha, I probably should have used a gunsmith. Im struggling right now. Kinda of like In the middle of a yard sale during a tornado. I’ll be on the phone on Monday. These decocker models are complicated. Look forward to
Speaking to the CJW smiths they are great on communication. Really like those dudes.
The videos are great, but I am in denial. I need reader glasses w magnification and a true understanding of the linguistic terms.
I’ll be better trained and with stronger vision when I’m done here.
Les
1 tip I found helpful. When you're stuck, replay the video on mute. Then watch each finger and mimic them. These gunsmiths don't narrate every single move they do.
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Always interesting to see how other people do it.
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Always interesting to see how other people do it.
I have done the P-01, but am reluctant to do the CZ 75BD, as the sear cage pin is staked. It would be interesting to see if someone has actually re-staked the sear cage pin.
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Always interesting to see how other people do it.
I have done the P-01, but am reluctant to do the CZ 75BD, as the sear cage pin is staked. It would be interesting to see if someone has actually re-staked the sear cage pin.
An interesting subject. I had both my 75 BD and SP-01 Tac done in shop by CGW years ago. I did my PCR and have had it apart half a dozen times. I tinkered with my RAMI BD a bit. I have never had my 97 BD apart. I have worked on quite a few of other peoples CZs at this point but i have not had a steel frame decocker come through that required Sear Cage removal that i remember. While i have examined the staking of the steel frame decocker Sear pin, i can only speculate. I figure that with the right backing for the right side of the pin and good staking tool that staking would be straight forward. The appropriate backing to avoid damaging the frame is the part that i am least clear on, if it is even necessary. I am used to babying the aluminum frames so maybe the steel frames serve as an adequate backing on their own. If and when i attempt it i will run it by CGW first.
From reading others experiences, i get the idea that most people do not bother with it unless the pin starts walking on them and i have not see any clear follow up on this issue. Another interesting question is why specifically the Sear pins walk when they do. Is it the tightness of the parts in some pistols compared to others or something els.
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.............I figure that with the right backing for the right side of the pin and good staking tool that staking would be straight forward. The appropriate backing to avoid damaging the frame is the part that i am least clear on, if it is even necessary. I am used to babying the aluminum frames so maybe the steel frames serve as an adequate backing on their own. If and when i attempt it i will run it by CGW first.
As you can see, the sear cage pin is staked on two opposite sides.
(https://i.imgur.com/KVPOxPI.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/KVPOxPI.jpg)
If I were to work on a steel frame decocker, i.e. CZ 75 BD, I will need to get a new sear cage pin, as the old pin will have burrs and scratches when it is removed against the frame.
For re-staking, I will need a flat metal surface so that the frame will not "bounce" when you strike the peen punch against the frame. To retain the new pin in place, it will need to be staked on two opposite sides. (If necessary, use some masking tape on the right side of the frame.) Lastly, when staking, stake the frame, not the pin.
From reading others experiences, i get the idea that most people do not bother with it unless the pin starts walking on them and i have not see any clear follow up on this issue. Another interesting question is why specifically the Sear pins walk when they do. Is it the tightness of the parts in some pistols compared to others or something els.
Like you mentioned, many have reassembled without re-staking, as the sear cage pin is being retained by 1) tension in the sear cage, 2) the decocker lever.
I have always tried to keep everything righty-tighty to eliminate any horizontal cage movement, i.e. installing the extended hammer pin retaining pin. If the sear cage pin is not staked, it might be OK in the short run. However, it might create some loosey-goosey sear cage movement in the long haul :)