The Original CZ Forum
GENERAL => Ammunition, questions, and handloading techniques => Topic started by: Davehb on December 16, 2023, 06:41:22 PM
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Testing some ram shot silhouette, behind 124 grain Sierra Vcrown.
Max load lists 4.9gr.
I used 4.3gr.
Minimum load is 4 grain.
OAL was book length.
Didn’t get chrono out just wanted to test couple for feed and function.
Kicked like a mule.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231216/c051a0d54312b9a840860a2369486e1a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231216/8bcb875c893d775206c16f8eb7805ab0.jpg)
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Those are nasty looking! Don't reload that Brass!
Methinks your Powder Scale may be in serious error or your seating depth has altered internal pressures.
How about starting at the "Starting Load"? Just a thought.
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Dave -
We have a template in the Stickies for asking a load question. You may want to use it as a template, or you can pass...
BUT we absolutely must know all the information the template is asking for before we can help you. That's why we have a template.
For example, ALL load data consists of powder by weight and an OAL at a minimum. You've not listed a single OAL.
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I would have sworn I put that information in. 🤔
Phones been loopy since last update.
Here it is.
Caliber: 9x19 Luger
Bullets: Sierra Vcrown 124gr
Brass: New Starline
Powder: Ramshot Silhouette
Max Velocity: 1100 fps
Primer: Federal GM100M
OAL: 1.090
Pistol: CZ 75B, and S&W EZ
Qty: 1
Weather: 50F
Chrono:
Load Avg Vel SD
4.3gr
Was just checking for function and decided to fire one without chrono.
Book data sent by Sierra:
Silhouette AOL 1.090
minimum load 4gr 950fps
Maximum load 4.9 1100fps
Thought I would be within safe parameters as Load I used was less than ramshots silhouettes minimum starting load for any bullet (of 4.5gr).
Every load was double weighed on 2 different scales.
100% positive I didn’t double charge.
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It was keeping me awake, so started troubleshooting.
I think I finally figured it out.
Cycling 6 I had left through gun by hand 1 ended up setting back all way to powder. Another set back .015.”
Lee factory crimp die finally came in today so I pulled all them, reduced powder to 4 grains on four.
Rechecked powder charge on 2 and left @ 4.3gr.
And crimped with the Lee factory crimp die.
No set back this time.
When I can get chance I’ll chrono and post results.
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Sometimes you get a case that looks like all the rest that just doesn't work well with the same crimp setting as the rests. I don't know if it's a piece of brass that has thinner case walls right at the top, or a case that "springs" back a bit for some reason of metalurgy/treatment, or something else in the reloading process. But, over the years I've seen some allow the bullet to push back a bit and many that never move.
If you keep seeing it I'd get a sharpie and mark that piece(s) of brass and "follow" it through your reloading process after you shoot them and see if you get a loose crimp on it next time.
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It was keeping me awake, so started troubleshooting.
I think I finally figured it out.
Cycling 6 I had left through gun by hand 1 ended up setting back all way to powder. Another set back .015.”
I know this is beating a dead horse, but you really should not be cycling live ammo through your gun. If you found the correct OAL range using our method, then there is no danger stemming from "fit". Ability to "feed" is proved on the firing line where it's much safer.
Lee factory crimp die finally came in today so I pulled all them, reduced powder to 4 grains on four.
Rechecked powder charge on 2 and left @ 4.3gr.
And crimped with the Lee factory crimp die.
No set back this time.
First of all, I'm deeply saddened and hurt you paid full price for a FCD when I could have sent you the same die for half the price. :'( You really should visit our Classifieds more often.
Secondly, this is not the first time you've talked about bullet set-back. Some thoughts....
• Have you ever run a strong magnet through your brass ?
• I have asked this before... what is the diameter of your Expander ? Regardless of the Expander diameter, I might be tempted (based on the frequency of set-back) to put that thing in a drill motor and take off another 0.001" in diameter using some 400 grit emery paper.
• What is the average taper crimp diameter on your finished cartridges ?
• Not a comment about your specific case, but typically an FCD is only repairing something missed or improperly executed (done) during an earlier stage of reloading.
In short, I don't think your dies or your die settings are optimal just yet. Something is still missing or remains out of adjustment.
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I remember having an issue with bullet set back several years ago when I was setting up my xl750 for 9mm. I noticed that the radius on the mouth of my new Dillon sizing die was much larger than any of my other dies so I put it in my lathe and faced off about .020"allowing the case to go in to the die a bit deeper fixed my problem.
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Have you shot that gun before?
Sometimes it can be an enlarged firing pin/striker hole in the breach face.
Seen the issue on a rifle or two over the years. Sometimes people complain about their primers looking funny/swelled and it's the gun more than their load/ammo. Just something else to make sure of.
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I'll ask again, how have you setup your sizing die? Is it screwed all the way in and touching the shell plate when the ram is at it's highest position? If not, how far out have you unscrewed the die from touching?
What is the case mouth dimension after you flare/expand the case mouth to accept the bullet?
Details matter when discussing your process and getting help on a forum virtually.
Cheers,
Toby
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To answer some questions asked.
I’m not clear sometimes.
I fired the ones to test (function) I meant recoil, cartridge ejection etc.
I don’t normally cycle live ammo.
I agree it’s not a good idea. I need to load up bunch of blanks for testing what I was checking.
I’m using case lube.
Sizing is screwed all the way to shell holder.
I just tried a few more blanks using my hornady dies, and confirmed my measurements.
Starline brass after running through the sizing die.
OD: .3725
ID: .3515
ID on Hornady .354
Flared/bell (measured at extreme edge)
OD: .3765-.377
ID: .3555-.356
Bullet seated:
OD: .377
After crimp .375-.376 below the sharp edge my crimp die makes.
OD on Hornady case after seating .375
After crimp .372. (But I can still very easily push the bullet into the case.) if I try to go any further I get into the roll crimp portion.
One thing I’ve noticed, on the thicker brass, my original crimp die always puts an edge on case rim pushing brass back and down rather then in. Leaves a very noticeable, to me, sharp edge.
The rim seen inside the crimp die is .377-.378 the best I can measure it.
https://imgur.com/a/fZPwFir
Rounded Starline case mouth after crimping.
https://imgur.com/a/tytniEl
My reloading bench is a small 23x36 inch table on wheels, so I can’t put lot of pressure on the rounds without pushing my bench.
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That all looks reasonable, the dimensions are consistent with what I'd expect.
Is the Hornady brass really just too thin or does it spring back more and the od is large as well? I'd scrap it and get more starline or other brass. 9mm brass is plentiful and there is no reason to waste time with bad brass.
Cheers,
Toby
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The beginning of expander die is .350
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Something has to be wrong with the Hornady crimp die.
I started crimping because of the bad Hornady brass. (Even the FCD can’t get those to hold a bullet.)
Past 2 days Been doing a lot of assembly and disassembly (without primer, and powders.) testing everything, every way I could think of
Just assembled several with different bullets without crimping. Couldn’t get any to set back no matter how hard I pushed them against the bench.
Got all live ones out I’ve actually loaded, and crimped, push them against table, quite a few will set back.
Took one apart I was troubleshooting that set back easily.
I had a .003 crimp; bullet was .352 at the crimp line; and still wouldn’t hold. I’ve only started crimping so deep cause they weren’t holding. Wasn’t helping.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231221/4691ff416cd859918cfbd0d8b0c4fae5.jpg)
I only get the sharp bur from crimp die on thick brass.
But still wont hold.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231221/2a234f71541893256b678c5f7e795dee.jpg)
Least the good part is doesn’t look like I’ll have to disassemble all the test rounds. So far all the ones I originally crimped with the Hornady die, I’ve been able to run through the FCD with a 1/4 turn on crimp and they have held.
Inside of the hornady crimp die.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231221/96fdd99657f8d4319dadbbd85b64037c.jpg)
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Lee Factory Crimp Die works only with jacketed bullets. With plated ones it makes things worse.
Try Lee U-sizer. Worked for me.
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It looks like you are way over crimping in that last photo. You can see the deformation in the jacketed bullet. You shouldn't see any diameter change in the bullet when crimped. As mentioned before the crimp die is there to remove the flare on the case mouth only. It does nothing else.
Post crimp, the case mouth should be ~0.377-.378 inch.
Cheers,
Toby
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It looks like you are way over crimping in that last photo. You can see the deformation in the jacketed bullet. You shouldn't see any diameter change in the bullet when crimped. As mentioned before the crimp die is there to remove the flare on the case mouth only. It does nothing else.
Post crimp, the case mouth should be ~0.377-.378 inch.
Cheers,
Toby
I was just crimping that hard, experimenting, to see if I could get it to hold using the Hornady crimp die.
Nope.
Seems as long as I have good brass don’t really need to crimp.
Once I started crimping; cause I was getting set back with original cases I had; didn’t dawn on me crimping was causing the issue with the good brass.
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I was just crimping that hard, experimenting, to see if I could get it to hold using the Hornady crimp die.
Nope.
Seems as long as I have good brass don’t really need to crimp.
Once I started crimping; cause I was getting set back with original cases I had; didn’t dawn on me crimping was causing the issue with the good brass.
Once again, you could have saved yourself a lot of time and headaches by simply reading our article on Taper Crimp in the Stickies.
https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=78873.0
WHAT TAPER CRIMP IS NOT
• Taper crimp does not hold or help retain the bullet in the case mouth.
• More taper crimp does not generally hold the bullet tighter. Typically, more taper crimp simply distorts the cartridge case to the extent that it buckles and actually loosens the grip on the bullet. However, results can also be dependent upon the brand of Crimp Die and brand of brass case.
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1 It's called a starting load for a reason. Did you load the exact same bullet in the exact same head- stamp case with the same lot of powder and lot of primers in the same gun? If not, respect the starting load. I have had starting that were max or over max with my components.
2 9x19 is a problematic cartridge. Lots of case manufacturers with lots of variability.
Some cases have walls so thin, they barely get sized. Seating a bullet in these cases will give almost no bullet grip. When you feed a cartridge made from one of these cases, the bullet can be set back in the case. For all 9x19 loading, immediately after bullet seating and prior to crimping, I always try to push the bullet further in the case. If the bullet moves at all, I trash that case.
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Has anyone considered that despite any setback issues that may, or may not, be occurring that the Sierra data might also be suspect?
On the Hodgdon reloading site there isn't a max load over 3.5 grains of Competition with any 124 gr bullet at any OAL.
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Great point, Painter !!
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I was just crimping that hard, experimenting, to see if I could get it to hold using the Hornady crimp die.
Nope.
Seems as long as I have good brass don’t really need to crimp.
Once I started crimping; cause I was getting set back with original cases I had; didn’t dawn on me crimping was causing the issue with the good brass.
Once again, you could have saved yourself a lot of time and headaches by simply reading our article on Taper Crimp in the Stickies.
https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=78873.0
WHAT TAPER CRIMP IS NOT
• Taper crimp does not hold or help retain the bullet in the case mouth.
• More taper crimp does not generally hold the bullet tighter. Typically, more taper crimp simply distorts the cartridge case to the extent that it buckles and actually loosens the grip on the bullet. However, results can also be dependent upon the brand of Crimp Die and brand of brass case.
Had to test it. [emoji3]
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