The Original CZ Forum
GENERAL => CZ Gunsmithing => Topic started by: PTGT_Neon on August 12, 2010, 04:30:59 AM
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Disassemble the Phantom
This is an informative page only. I'm showing all the dangerous things I do with my dangerous toys. I am not responsible for the actions of others.
Basic working space. A hammer and one 2mm punch and 3mm punch. A simple piece of plywood with some holes drilled through it laying on the floor is what I use.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/4884831730_ef65e7a59e.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884831730/)
First I want to show the P-01 slide stop in the Phantom. It doesn't protrude. Of course this means I need a tool (philips head from swiss knife) to pop it out.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4073/4884229631_f7aa057e51.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884229631/)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4117/4884831800_5f9b724c10.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884831800/)
The two slide stops side by side.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4121/4884831856_8ff85fe6b2.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884831856/)
I cut back the bulbous end a bit to make some clearance for the slide. It fit without, but it looked really tight.
Remove the mainspring:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4884831828_143d18d24c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884831828/)
I am currently using a 15 lb main spring with extended firing pin for reliable operation.
Lift the sear spring with a small tool and pull the decocking lever out.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4884229761_b1146e852e.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884229761/)
Next, knock out the 2mm pin:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/4884229779_9b4469032f.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884229779/)
2mm trigger pin:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4884831954_180e98df77.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884831954/)
3mm hammer pin:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4884831970_51583ba0c2.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884831970/)
pins out:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4884831998_171601aa61.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884831998/)
Note the trigger return spring is about 85 degrees. 90 seemed too weak.
Action assembly pulls right out. Wait! Is this a Tokarev? HA! Not even close!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/4884832014_c7f79639a1.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884832014/)
Open Pandoras box and push the pin out. It just pushes out. no need to hammer it:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/4884832080_aa99654c53.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884832080/)
Here's the mess:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4884229997_6a34519b48.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884229997/)
You'll notice there isn't a firing pin block lifter. That's my choice. CZcustom sells a spacer that takes its place.
Here's my iteration of the sear angle business:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4081/4884834924_4a4a8a0fa2.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884834924/)
I forgot to photograph the contact area where the trigger bar meets the trigger bar return spring. The trigger bar spring contact area on the trigger bar should be polished pretty smooth so that there isn't any creep during take up.
Also, notice the strut that goes through the main spring (hammer spring). I sanded the corners smooth so the DA is smoother. It works. the spring doesn't make popping noises as I pull the DA. The mainspring plug can also be tapered and polished on the inside to reduce the popping of the mainspring. All this helps. It really does. The Phantom seems much more sensitive to the quality of friction surfaces that my other steel bodied CZ.
Do what this photo says. It is very wise.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4076/4884876436_520f514eb2.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884876436/)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/4884832266_be864382ab.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884832266/)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/4884230199_1c857cdcda.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884230199/)
I have modified my sear and decocker springs:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4884834256_6c8ec2eb08.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884834256/)
This not only improves trigger pull a great deal, but it also eases the assembly quite significantly.
Polish the contact areas or God kills a kitten!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/4884834304_e6b04179b5.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884834304/)
The hard part!
Put it together like how it is in the picture. Fat stubby fingers need not apply. This can be very frustrating the first time. Pay attention to how the decocking lever thingie is positioned. If you get it wrong and assemble the whole thing, its all got to come apart again. Get that right first. then put the sear in, then slide the decocking lever spring in there. Don't worry about getting the spring sprung. Sprunging the spring will occur later.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4884834394_1579910537.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884834394/)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4884232163_e3c86253a5.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884232163/)
Get that sear spring in there! Easier said than done.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/4884834448_4bc59b0d36.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884834448/)
Continue through to the other side (spacer in place of firing pin block lifter):
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4884834540_23c6128c11.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884834540/)
Replace the pin with a dummy pin. I think this was once the trigger pin. Use whatever works:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4143/4884834568_cf79ffd745.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884834568/)
Here is the assembly upside down. Note the position of the decocking lever spring. This is not where it is suppose to be. But doing it this way is the easiest way.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/4884232329_5b551a408a.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884232329/)
Now use a tool (I use the small blade from my pocket knife) to pull the leg of the spring around the leg of the decocking lever.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/4884232359_7bb95f9b17.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884232359/)
note the position of the spring leg. Again, easier said than done.
Assembly sequence. Do it right and you get a cookie:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4884232389_f8ff96d9eb.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884232389/)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/4884232417_8e9ea2df44.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884232417/)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/4884834682_3382ca9149.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884834682/)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4884834710_fb245fcb3d.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884834710/)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/4884834764_6199bc3ca9.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884834764/)
Push the rounded end of the pin in first. That's what it's there for.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4884232557_bd281ea9e3.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884232557/)
Replace the 2mm and 3mm pins:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4884834822_5ba1aff9da.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884834822/)
This is how do the trigger pin. I knock the pin in place just a little bit. This way I can hook the trigger return spring onto it and then hammer it back in:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4884232635_d9b3cedde1.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884232635/)
Cake:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/4884834884_6669b4b15b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52915038@N05/4884834884/)
And that's all there is to it!
I'll come back with some more tidbits on stuff later.
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Very nice how-to.
thanks for taking the time to share this.
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Fantastic! Good Job! Give the man a Cookie! Thank you!
This is why I came to the Forum. Amazing.
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It's great tutorials like these that make owning weapons fun!
I sort of cheated, I started gunsmithing on a Steyr M40-A1, it's somewhat simpler a DAO, striker-fired semi.
Gunsmithing is addictive. Tuning becomes an obsession, or is it the buying of cool tools? No, 'cause I make some of my tools, it's the tuning.
I promised my wife, as soon as I'm through tuning the K31, I'll retire from tuning. Like she believes that... ::) ::) ::)
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Great pics and discription, now I have to work up the courage to give it a try. ;). That would be really tough without the pics to help. Thanks PTGT Neon.
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I'm glad I could help! It wasn't easy figuring it all out. I've done it enough times to make an error at every step, which results in taking it all back apart again.
I plan on doing some more pictorials on the sear and hammer engagement as well as the competition hammer. I bought a comp hammer and fitted it to my Police model for the time being. It was a lot easier than grinding out the RSA trigger group to use the factory safety lever on my PSL.
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Thanks Neon! What a great writeup and pictures! Also thanks for the PM's to help me out! I have taken my brother Phantom apart no less then 6 times now and have it down pretty well! ;D
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Neon,
Thanks for the post, the pics, and the help!
Couple of comments for others considering tackling this:
1. The parts look much larget in the pictures than they actually are :)
2. Pay very close attention when you take it all apart - there are a bunch of little things that don't seem all that obvious a couple of hours later :-[
The trigger sure feels smoother. Glad I decided to do it, and can't wait to get to the range!
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Neon, what do you mean but borderline full auto? Does that mean it will fire the entire magazine without stopping? Or that it will take very little effort to pull the trigger? I wouldn't want to make my gun dangerous or illegal to carry. Thanks for the heads up.
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I should correct that statement. I did take one of my CZs too far in that direction on the hammer. What I did was create two curved surfaces, one on the hammer, and one on the sear so the sear slips past the hammer at a certain point in the trigger pull. This way I don't get that last spot where the force x area gets small and it feels like its sticking. I succeeded in my goal. But not before I took the hammer too far. What did happen was the sear would not always engage the hammer after the slide went back to battery. So the hammer came up to the half cock position.
In other words, the half cock position will prevent the full auto scenario from happening. So no worries. ;D
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Just another reason why i chose CZ! ;D
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Thank you very much for this guide. I recently purchased a Phantom and freaked when I felt the gravel in the trigger. In my opinion, it was so bad that I could not even bother shooting the gun until it was addressed. So I searched and found this guide. With it and the other trigger job guides here on the CZ forums I have been able to clean up the gravel and now I have a heavy but glass smooth trigger pull in DA and SA. Even the decocker functions smoothly.
I do have two questions, will the CZ-75 extended firing pin work on the Phantom? I shoot factory ammo, sometimes reloads... would you recommend the 13 or 15# main spring? And I lied, one more question, what is the weight of the factory spring.
Thanks in advance.
Sincerely,
Ricardo
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I'm glad this guide is helpful! Maybe we should get it stickied? Mine had tons of creep too out of the box.
I put the extended firing pin in my Phantom, Police, and Tactical. You can probably use a 13# spring and be just fine. But for a carry, I'd use the 15# spring. If you get the extended firing pin, get the solid retainer pin for the firing pin. I think the factory main spring is about 18 or 21 lbs; I just don't remember.
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Thank you for the detailed response. I am new to firearms and I can use all of the help I can get. From what I've been reading and from your post I will trust that an extended CZ-75 firing pin and a solid roll pin will work. I will also probably compromise and get a 13 and 15 pound main spring. One for carry and one for competition. Like I mentioned, the above procedure coupled with the trigger job procedures in other threads made the Phantom's trigger smooth so all I need now is to drop the pull weight. Thanks again.
Sincerely,
Ricardo
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Nice job. Good info. Makes me want to try and do mine. The first time I took my SP01 apart I thought I would never get it back together.
Mike
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Ok i did this mod this week. First the trigger bar where it meets the trigger bar lift spring is some of the worst machining i have ever seen. i had to make an end mil from a punch, wet sand paper, super glue and a drill. Matter of fact the over all machining was very disapointing on this gun. No wonder the trigger pull is so gritty/rough. Anyways i did the mods to a mirror finish and am now happy with this gun. the only thing i wish i would have done while in there was to cut the ramp (sear to hammer interface) on the hammer down a little.
the slide even had casting pot marks in it and deep machining marks in the rails. Again i would expect higher qty for a gun that cost me over $650 out the door.
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the few actions I have done on the Phantom..that trigger bar spring/plunger is pretty key to trigger feel. same setup as on Tanfoglio guns.
There are several roller bearing plungers for Tanfoglio/EAA guns that may be worth trying in the Phantom if a person really was up to it.
the hammer/sear is pretty key too to getting a crisp release.
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That was the piece that really was holding up the trigger on my Phantom too Stuart. It was binding in a couple places on that little spring-loaded piece and causing the SA pull to be quite stagey. I did some polishing and ultimately ended up using a bit of grease there to really smooth it out. So far that seems to have done it and it's now grit free and breaks cleanly (thanks to the CGW hammer) at just under 3.5lbs.
I have to think CZ would have an easier time selling these if the triggers came a bit cleaner out of the box. I've heard countless stories of someone who fired one, felt the stock trigger and said "No Thanks". Amazing how well they clean up though. Anyways, I'm off topic. :)
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CGW hammer! Is it worth it? I was thinking that next but now that i cleaned everything up and am happy. Onthe CGW hammer it looks like they reduced the leg that the sear catches on, therefore reducing trigger pull? I kind of did that when i did my mod. Am i seeing that right ?
i am thinking adjustable fiberoptic sights maybe next instead. Or maybe the CGW trigger (reach reduction)? Anyone try that?.
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My trigger had quite a bit of camming on the SA pull. I installed the CGW kit 4 and it's as crisp a break as I could ask for. It was a huge improvement over my stock trigger. I'd highly recommend the CGW if you like a crisper breaking trigger.
Edit: I also picked up the ultra-light kit for my Phantom. Great stuff from CGW.
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CGW parts are awesome. If you are going to do it yourself, these parts are a great foundation to work from.
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Very nicely done, You wouldnt know the dia. and length of the slave pin would you? I need to make mine up.
Thanks
Mike
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The last time I did this I used a small thin nail and cut it and sanded to to size.
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I followed this tutorial and completed a trigger job on my phantom. Thank you for posting it. It's much smoother and i cut 3 coils off the main spring for lighter weight pull. All went well.
For those contemplating trying this it's tricky but doable. I used a Q-tip cut to length for the slave pin needed to reasemble. Worked perfectly.
I would still like to remove the firing pin block but i will do some reasearch for the couple parts that i think i need to replace. I think eliminating it will help make the pull even smoother.
Thanks,
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Thank you greatly for this. Helped me out greatly in modifying my Phantom! Went with a CGW race hammer, lighter firing pin spring, lighter firing pin block spring, 13# main spring and a few other small things. The trigger is exactly how I wanted it now!
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Amazing write up! Thank you!
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My apologies if bringing an old topic to the top offends anyone, but I wanted to thank PTGT_Neon for putting this tutorial together.
It was of immense help as I did some trigger work on a 2017 Phantom I just picked up. Thanks!
Regards,
Greg
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This is relevant as the Phantom is back and seems to have a growing following. I know I like mine and will be doing some of the CGW mods.
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Can this guide be followed for the new 2017 re-release of the Phantom? Any changes to be aware of?
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The only changes that I?ve heard about is the upgraded polymer.
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Interesting work, does the Phantom share inner workings wit the P09?
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Interesting work, does the Phantom share inner workings wit the P09?
No. It has its own proprietary trigger bar and spring, other than that all other internals are same as 75 series.
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This was very informative, thank you so much for posting this. Just wondering, can you post a disassembly/reassembly of the slide? I've looked everywhere and cannot find it.
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I just wanted to add this after reading this thread which is very good and very informative. I know there is already a disclaimer here but unless you know what you're doing ( meaning, a lot of experience) with a seer and the hammer hooks do not touch them. It can possibly ruin your life, and those around you., by turning that safe pistol into an unsafe pistol.
With that said when you're doing polishing never try to remove machine marks , you just want to smooth and Shine the metal . removing machine marks can take those parts beyond the tolerances they were created for. Ask me how I know I had to get replacement parts from cgw because my P 07 no longer functioned properly. JMHO
Edit : just because you "CAN" do something doesn't mean you should.
A man's got to know his limitations !!
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Just wanted to say, thank you, for this guide. I've been using it for over a decade.