The Original CZ Forum
GENERAL => CZ Gunsmithing => Topic started by: schmeky on September 12, 2011, 12:30:04 PM
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I have decided to start a thread that details key areas of the CZ action that benefit from smoothing. The gun in this thread is a CZ Custom Shop SP-01. It has the comp hammer, tactical sights, 13# hammer spring, and the hammer strut has been contoured and ploished. I could not test the DA before since my electronic scale only goes to 12#'s and this pistol was off my scale. Anyway, here's a before pic of the trigger bar:
(https://i.imgur.com/QwRqoi6.jpg)
This is an after pic of the same trigger bar. The DA disconnector contract area on this trigger bar is the worst I have ever seen. The tooling used to cut it was worn out. However, it can still deliver good performance with careful prep and polish. I use 3M aluminum oxide paper in 400-800-1000 increments, followed by a super fine polishing compound done with a felt wheel mounted on a dremel. I should be able to see my finger prints in the polished areas of the trigger bar once done, in essence, it's a mirror finish. I'll work through the action and post pics as I go.
(https://i.imgur.com/wi0a7Kk.jpg)
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ouch!
wow!
(first pic, and second pic, respectively)
what about corrosion/rusting of fully polished stuff. I do not have access to dremel etc, will 1000 grit aluminum oxide serve the purpose, with a bit of compromise?
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tag.
be careful on some areas though..the tool marks can be so bad and deep, that if you polish too much to remove all the tool marks you can take too much metal off and affect the timing.
but even with deep tool marks you can still get a smooth moving action that will be ten times better than stock.
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Great Post! Awesome pics! Thanks for the tip, Schmeky!
-JD
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Stuart,
Is absolutely correct. If there are deep tool marks, do not attempt to remove them, since it's the smoothness of the area that matters, not the appearance. This trigger bar has really bad tool marks on the disconnector contact face, so it will get smoothed only, the tool marks will remain. Here's a pic of just how crude this bar is, but I am finished with this area:
(https://i.imgur.com/4kZz10w.jpg)
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Wow thanks for the step-by-step and pics I think this should be made a Sticky in the CZ related Frequently Asked Questions, Gunsmithing/Maintenance sections. Very nice work as always!
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Excellent post schmeky and I look forward to the followups. Thanks.
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This will definitely be a great thread to sticky or bookmark.
Schmeky would love to see more of your mods and *secrets* :)
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I ain't got no secrets, you guys can have anything I got for free 8)
I will pick up on this in the next day or so since there are obviously other areas that need to be addressed. I've been really busy lately and like to take care of customers first. I hope this thread will help the CZ bretherin' extract the most from their CZ's.
Besides, I know others (Stuart?) have something to contribute as well.
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Here's the trigger bar and disconnector as they look when installed in the pistol. I estimate 85%+ of the friction in DA is right here, so taking extra time to smooth and polish in these areas will deliver great dividends. The goal is to remove as little metal as possible and still acheive a a mirror finish. Also, nothing beats the actual wearing in of the action, so I consider this as the foundation for an even smoother action in a short time frame.
I have also been testing a very high content moly grease that can actually lower the DA pull a few ounces by itself, so I add the moly in these critical areas when I do a final reassembly.
(https://i.imgur.com/SSzqFnc.jpg)
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wow ! amazing and interesting. thanks for this post :)
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Great post. :) I have a very general polishing question for you guys - I'm working under the theory that there are no stupid questions so bear with me. ;D
How do you work the different sandpapers into some of the small crevices? Are you cutting small strips of sandpaper and holding them up against some flat object (if so, what works best)? I realize how small some of those little nooks are, so I'm curious how you'd recommend sanding them effectively. Also, I'd be a bit worried about rounding off some of the edges when doing the sanding. After all the sanding is done, do you apply a light coat of oil to these parts? I don't want to attract a lot of dirt into the sensitive parts of the gun but is there any risk of the polished/unfinished parts rusting without a coating of oil on them?
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I use strips of sand paper cut to fit small files. I use rubber cement to attach the strips. Basically I'm just making a very small sanding block. After sanding I use a degreaser to flush away any metal shavings and then apply a very light coat of rem oil using a q-tip.
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To get to the rear of the trigger bar, I have a modified dremel attachment. I cut small narrow strips of sandpaper, then hold it on the dremel attachment with a very small o-ring. Makes changing out the sandpaper strips a snap. I'll post a pic of this little tool.
On the main trigger bar and exposed areas, I use 400/800/1000 and keep it wet with WD-40 (I buy WD-40 in the gallon can). Also remember it's critical to alternate your sanding pattern, up-down, then side-to-side, but go lightly, not much pressure. This alternating pattern will produce the desired level of polish quickly and efficiently.
Lastly, I have a super fine polishing compound I use a small felt dremel wheel with for obtaining a glass like finish. Polished metal is slow to rust since the pores of rough steel are essentially eliminated. Just a light coat of lube will keep the polished parts rust free.
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This will definitely be a great thread to sticky or bookmark.
I quite agree! Done.
Great thread! 8)
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I use a diamond hones in 3 different grades to square things up and get a smooth finish. I'll use paper in small strips in varying grades. and felt wheel and compound.
I also cut in the direction of travel of the part. kind of like not cutting across the grain.
Schmecky your tool sounds great.
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It's really simple, here it is. It works well on the rear of the trigger bar that contacts the sear trigger pad and the FPB lifter pad. The top pic is how it looks ready to use, the bottom is how it looks when purchased new.
(https://i.imgur.com/4bWZtbk.jpg)
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Schmecky,
So when using your tool, what surface (of tool) contacts the action parts? Do you hold it so its like a rotary sander or more like a drum sander? The way the paper looks, the surface used would be the end of the tool more like a rotary.
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Really great post! A smooth trigger would be a perfect adjunct to the (soon to be) world famous Cajun Gunworks CZ Adjustable Rear Sight!
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Hayfield1123,
Hardy, har, har :P
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I'm going to buy one!
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Thanks goes to Schmeky, and also to Stuart for the info!
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Finally have a little free time to get this finished. Here is an area of major importance, the sear and hammer. Note in the first pic a stock CZ sear. I have seen these vary from not to good, to a miniature wash board.
(https://i.imgur.com/kq9sQsL.jpg)
Next pic is the hammer area that rubs against the underside of the sear. If the hammer is rough (and it is most of the time) combined with a "wash board" sear, means a really gritty feel when cocking the hammer.
(https://i.imgur.com/aPpufUo.jpg)
Last pic is the sear underside after polishing along with the hammer contact area. Done right, you now have a butter smooth cocking feel. Next post will deal with the firing pin lifter arm, firing pin block plunger, and the hammer strut. All CZ's that come to my shop for action work have this performed. The difference, before and after, is dramatic.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZutfvAI.jpg)
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Firing pin lifter arm (in the sear cage), firing pin block plunger (in the slide), and the sear cage pin. Note I did not remove all the tool marks on the lifter arm. Removing to much can reduce how high the plunger is raised, which can cause mis-fires, so be careful here. Also the plunger needs to be mirror polished. Also, installing a light plunger spring, which I offer, literally takes the "feel" of the entire lifter and plunger away. The real resistance once these steps are taken is the trigger return spring.
(https://i.imgur.com/XOun4o3.jpg)
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If you want to really knock it out of the park, add these to the action job. The first is the hammer strut. Note the lower area is the main place you want to concentrate on, but obviously don't omit the upper hammer pin-strut hole and sides.
(https://i.imgur.com/ywf1RDL.jpg)
The rear of the slide is generally overlooked. The area of the slide that contacts the face of the hammer can be sharp, rough, uneven, or all of these. True it, bevel, and polish.
(https://i.imgur.com/030H0i1.jpg)
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Great pics and info!!!!!!
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did you use a dremel for all of this? i cant find and 400,800, or 1000 grit sander bits for a dremel? i understand what you did with the sandpaper strips and o ring for the rear of the trigger bar but did you also use the same thing for everything else?
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Excellent info, thank you for posting your pics and information.
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I just followed these steps on my Shadow
With over 8000 rounds down the pipe and all I can say is WoW what a difference
It made!!
Thanks for posting this
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A guy at the range had a pretty used SP01 Shadow. When he shot mine, he said wow on the trigger, and asked how many rounds this had seen? I said 500 odd, but I did what was posted in this thread. Real slick, a notch under 2.5# SA break with all factory springs. Cocking of hammer is real slick too.
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Thanks Schmeky your the man!!!! I recently purchased the spring kit and polished up everything that was obvious but now I'll have to revisit some areas you've pointed out that aren't so obvious...Great work.....
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Great posts
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Can't believe I haven't seen this. I have to remove some of the remaining grit on my SP-01 Shadow Target. I guess I've just been doing the basic polish job after now learning what I missed touching up, thanks David.
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To get to the rear of the trigger bar, I have a modified dremel attachment. I cut small narrow strips of sandpaper, then hold it on the dremel attachment with a very small o-ring. Makes changing out the sandpaper strips a snap. I'll post a pic of this little tool.
On the main trigger bar and exposed areas, I use 400/800/1000 and keep it wet with WD-40 (I buy WD-40 in the gallon can). Also remember it's critical to alternate your sanding pattern, up-down, then side-to-side, but go lightly, not much pressure. This alternating pattern will produce the desired level of polish quickly and efficiently.
Lastly, I have a super fine polishing compound I use a small felt dremel wheel with for obtaining a glass like finish. Polished metal is slow to rust since the pores of rough steel are essentially eliminated. Just a light coat of lube will keep the polished parts rust free.
Are you using a rouge to polish or something else
Edit Note: HTML quote correction
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You know what we need is a trigger bar like the SVI 1911 trigger bow. Made from high quality tool steel and with balls bearings in it so it rides as smooth as butter. 8)
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If you don't want to use a dremel tool, try 3000 grit sand paper (I bought it at O Riley Auto Parts). That will put a nice shine polish on the parts too.
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I used some .5 micron wet dry I got from a knife sharpener
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Tag for future use..... Thanks for this excellent write up.
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You know what we need is a trigger bar like the SVI 1911 trigger bow. Made from high quality tool steel and with balls bearings in it so it rides as smooth as butter. 8)
+1
I thought about that too when polishing mine. It's kind of a loose fit, with some variation right and left side.
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Here's the trigger bar and disconnector as they look when installed in the pistol. I estimate 85%+ of the friction in DA is right here, so taking extra time to smooth and polish in these areas will deliver great dividends. The goal is to remove as little metal as possible and still acheive a a mirror finish. Also, nothing beats the actual wearing in of the action, so I consider this as the foundation for an even smoother action in a short time frame.
I have also been testing a very high content moly grease that can actually lower the DA pull a few ounces by itself, so I add the moly in these critical areas when I do a final reassembly.
(https://i.imgur.com/SSzqFnc.jpg)
Are you still milling out the center of disconnectors?
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Would like to say thank you to all who have contributed. I purchased a new SP-01 yesterday and am planning on taking it out to shoot tomorrow. Did not care for how gritty the DA pull was. Disassembled and polished everything except for the sear cage. The difference is great for the minimal amount work I did and not disassembling the sear cage. No more grit in DA. I will do the sear work when my CGW parts get here after Christmas. BTW, I bought my first hand gun just over a month ago and this one yesterday. I am very new to all of this, but this thread and the one kneelingatlas did on Brian's page made it very straight forward and pretty easy.[emoji3]
Thanks again.
Matt
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where to buy the 3M aluminum oxide paper? walmart only carries the 150/220, and lowes has the 100/150/220. can i use a 3M wet/dry 800 or 1000 instead? and then using mother's metal polish with dremel felt wheel?
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I get mine from NAPA. Ended up using 1000, 1500, and 2500. Instantly polished once I hit it with the wheel and mothers.
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All I used was wet/dry 800, 1000, 1500 with some WD40 from the hardware store. Then polished with some Flitz with a Dremel.
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thanks guys.. i don't have any mother's mag polish at home, but i do have a 3M body repair rubbing compound fine cut. would that work as well?
Update: just did the polish work last night. used a bit of 800grit wet/dry first and then used 3M rubbing compound + dremel with polishing wheel. now silky smooth like baby's butt without worrying removing too much. :)
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Another tool I used to get into the notches of the trigger bar is a Dawson Precision aluminum drift tool that fits perfectly in that area. I just wrap my 3M aluminum oxide sand paper around it and keep it square to the surface.
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CAGLS, I've ordered some slide glide for the slide rails. Would you recommended putting some between the trigger bar and the frame?
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No just a light coat of oil there or any fcg areas.
CAGLS, I've ordered some slide glide for the slide rails. Would you recommended putting some between the trigger bar and the frame?
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Ok. That's what I did too. Good to know.
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I am currently waiting for some springs and firing pin from Cajun Gun Works to upgrade my Phantom that I had sitting around since 2009 and I have been polishing everything that has been posted by smecky to bring it back to my main arsenal. Can't wait for the end results! :)
Even though it won't improve trigger pull can I polish the firing pin for more reliable primer strikes and bling? Or would that void cgw's lifetime warranty on the firing pin?
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Welcome to the forum Ron.
You'll have to contact CGW and ask them. Only then, can you be sure if it does or not.
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Welcome to the forum Ron.
Thanks!
You'll have to contact CGW and ask them. Only then, can you be sure if it does or not.
Yea I suppose that would be the best course of action. And I am now gonna have to order a new firing pin block lifter spring as mine pulled a Houdini on me so might as well call them while putting in a order... :(
Darned thing is so tiny im sure it is in plain sight but for the life of me I cannot find the little sob.
Can the gun function without it while I wait for it to arrive in the mail or would that be really really dumb decision?
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This is outstanding! Thank you very much for putting the time and effort into doing this
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If there was only a YouTube fairy that would go ....pooof and all this could be on video for us written instruction challenged smucks!!
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If there was only a YouTube fairy that would go ....pooof and all this could be on video for us written instruction challenged smucks!!
Plus 1 as they say, or [LIKE] as other places do. I scour UTubes looking for advice, hoping to find good stuff, but now wonder if I'll have to learn vimeo or other places...
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I have an SP-01 arriving next week. I've done all the stuff here and will be doing it again. I'll try and record it and post it to YouTube. I know how much I would have appreciated some YouTube videos of this when I got started. Give me a week or two...
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What brand rubbing compound do you use? Just curious. Thanks again, very much appreciated!!
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I use Flitz, as it came pretty highly recommended. There are some other good brands out there, but Flitz worked great and I've had no reason to use anything else.
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I have an SP-01 arriving next week. I've done all the stuff here and will be doing it again. I'll try and record it and post it to YouTube. I know how much I would have appreciated some YouTube videos of this when I got started. Give me a week or two...
That would be greatly appreciated by many in this forum. I belong to 5 forums and by far this one has more instructional posts about tuning and making pistols better.
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With the knowledge acquired in this post and others, I just finished an SP-01 (safety) that I have been shooting for years. Thought it had gotten pretty good with just the wear in process but thanks to David at CGW for parts suggestion and sharing his valuable time to answer my questions, I now have the range gun I always dreamed about.
It went so well, I reworked the wife's SP-01 Tactical with more parts from CGW...this will ensure I get to keep my pistol :-)
Thanks again to everyone for sharing your knowledge on this forum and thanks again to David at CGW...
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A great tool to polish to get into hard to reach places is Dremel tool #422 Felt Polishing Cone.
It is denser and harder than 1/2" polishing wheel #414, polishes alone, yet I used Dillon's Case Polish with it.
https://www.dremel.com/en-ca/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=422
(http://mdm.boschwebservices.com/files/Dremel%20Rotary%20Tool%20Accessory%20422%20(EN)%20r19788v15.jpg)
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A great tool to polish to get into hard to reach places is Dremel tool #422 Felt Polishing Cone.
It is denser and harder than 1/2" polishing wheel #414, polishes alone, yet I used Dillon's Case Polish with it.
https://www.dremel.com/en-ca/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=422
(http://mdm.boschwebservices.com/files/Dremel%20Rotary%20Tool%20Accessory%20422%20(EN)%20r19788v15.jpg)
These are the best to polish a feed ramp with. Have to buy a few when you find them as they are hard to find most of the time. I use them with Flitz or Mothers polish.
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Thank you for posting. I am new to CZs, about 1 year or so and don't like to disassemble since my manual dexterity is poor. I am 81. But that being said, I have learned to love the CZs after being a Sig and HK fan for years.
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I use Kratex to polish all internal parts.
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Just wanted to send out a sincere THANK YOU to schmeky for making this thread.
When I bought my SAR K2 it had a significant amount of gritty creep in SA and terrible stacking in DA. 1000 rounds later the creep went down a little but still pretty bad. I followed this guide and after some light sanding and polishing I am happy to report that the SA is now 95% creep-free and the DA is much smoother as well.
Now if only there was a company out there making some fiber optic sights and a SAO trigger for the SAR... ;D
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Thanks for taking the time to put this together Schmeky. Will be putting an order together shortly and using this detailed post to get my SP01 in tip top shape ;)
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Tag for later. Waiting on all my parts from CGW and reading this thread is making me chomp at the bit to get started!!!
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I've done my 75B and my SP-01 and for me it's very satisfying. Both now have 3# SA and 8# DA trigger pulls.
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Tag for later. Waiting on all my parts from CGW and reading this thread is making me chomp at the bit to get started!!!
I use tapatalk to access this forum. Is there an actual way to tag topics? I'm not seeing it.
Thanks.
Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk
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Tag for later. Waiting on all my parts from CGW and reading this thread is making me chomp at the bit to get started!!!
I use tapatalk to access this forum. Is there an actual way to tag topics? I'm not seeing it.
Thanks.
Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk
Click on the check mark up by the title. That subscribes the thread. Then on the main forum scroll over to subscribed threads. Also in settings you can setup/change the notification settings, so that you can get a notification every time a new post appears on the subscribed thread.
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Tag for later. Waiting on all my parts from CGW and reading this thread is making me chomp at the bit to get started!!!
I use tapatalk to access this forum. Is there an actual way to tag topics? I'm not seeing it.
Thanks.
Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk
Click on the check mark up by the title. That subscribes the thread. Then on the main forum scroll over to subscribed threads. Also in settings you can setup/change the notification settings, so that you can get a notification every time a new post appears on the subscribed thread.
Thank you.
Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk
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What an amazing wealth of information. Anyone have any pointers for getting into the back corners? I'm using 600, 1000, 1200, 1600, 2200, and then flitz. The large surfaces are no sweat, but the recesses are the devil to get to.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170516/64c03de718167e027256d221217fece6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170516/736299e1e64046a88a8c0ee16e842ca0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170516/357e1b42ba10cb0e8cc9093149956e01.jpg)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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I use various shaped felt wheels and points on my Dremel with red rouge followed by white.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/g/Yj0AAOSwYIxX2ukl/s-l225.jpg)
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I use various shaped felt wheels and points on my Dremel with red rouge followed by white.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/g/Yj0AAOSwYIxX2ukl/s-l225.jpg)
Nice assortment of polishing wheels. I got a rouge polishing cloth that seemed to do the trick. There are still a few small corners and crevasses that are not mirror bright, but it's a lot better than it was.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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What I do is take a q-tip and cut in half, pull off the cotton on each end, stick in a dremel on low speed and use the stem. I use Flitz and Mothers Wheel and Mag Polish. Be careful to leave yourself enough of the stem sticking out. You don't want the end of the dremel to come in contact with your trigger bar. After doing that several times, I will, again, cut a q-tip in half and clean up the areas with the q-tips. This works great for me. Not sure if anyone here on the forum does this same thing or not.
rich63
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What I do is take a q-tip and cut in half, pull off the cotton on each end, stick in a dremel on low speed and use the stem. I use Flitz and Mothers Wheel and Mag Polish. Be careful to leave yourself enough of the stem sticking out. You don't want the end of the dremel to come in contact with your trigger bar. After doing that several times, I will, again, cut a q-tip in half and clean up the areas with the q-tips. This works great for me. Not sure if anyone here on the forum does this same thing or not.
Very interesting! I may have to try that one!
Thanx for posting! :)
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What I do is take a q-tip and cut in half, pull off the cotton on each end, stick in a dremel on low speed and use the stem. I use Flitz and Mothers Wheel and Mag Polish. Be careful to leave yourself enough of the stem sticking out. You don't want the end of the dremel to come in contact with your trigger bar. After doing that several times, I will, again, cut a q-tip in half and clean up the areas with the q-tips. This works great for me. Not sure if anyone here on the forum does this same thing or not.
rich63
THAT'S SMART!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Hobby stores usually carry some q-tip like products that are more densely packed and come in a variety of pointed, rounded, etc. styles. I picked up some from Hobby Lobby and if you're gentle you can cut the stick in half and use them in a dremel.
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for future use
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And the pictures are gone :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :(
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And the pictures are gone :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :(
This is why I switched to using other hosting services for uploaded images.
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OK, I polished everything in this how-to thread, installed new hammer and hammer springs and recoil spring.
It's not even the same gun anymore!
I consider all the polishing time - WELL SPENT!
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OK, I polished everything in this how-to thread, installed new hammer and hammer springs and recoil spring.
It's not even the same gun anymore!
I consider all the polishing time - WELL SPENT!
Time spent polishing mechanisms to make them work right is not removed from your life
I?m reading this sticky thread backwards to find info to work on my P-07. Unfortunately with Photobucket essentially gone, so many years? worth of great picture based information is gone. I hope that has been restored somewhere in this sticky thread, or else is there a way to add it back, or another source? Thanks....
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OK, I polished everything in this how-to thread, installed new hammer and hammer springs and recoil spring.
It's not even the same gun anymore!
I consider all the polishing time - WELL SPENT!
Time spent polishing mechanisms to make them work right is not removed from your life
I?m reading this sticky thread backwards to find info to work on my P-07. Unfortunately with Photobucket essentially gone, so many years? worth of great picture based information is gone. I hope that has been restored somewhere in this sticky thread, or else is there a way to add it back, or another source? Thanks....
First off => http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=66147.0
Secondly... I will work on rehosting the images in this thread this weekend, as I did in that other thread ;-) You may also want to check out the Photobucket Hotlink Fix (https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg?hl=en) plugin for Google Chrome, if that is the browser you happen to be using.
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You may also want to check out the Photobucket Hotlink Fix (https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg?hl=en) plugin for Google Chrome, if that is the browser you happen to be using.
God bless you for sharing that!!!!
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You may also want to check out the Photobucket Hotlink Fix (https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg?hl=en) plugin for Google Chrome, if that is the browser you happen to be using.
God bless you for sharing that!!!!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_K2fvmxTAvn4/THO6Lx0nDaI/AAAAAAAAACw/myynusFkxc4/s1600/two-thumbs-up.jpg)
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OK, folks... images have been rehosted so they should be visible to all on all platforms.
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Thank you. Looking for my Dremel tool now.
Going to start with my clone first
After getting some competency with the L-120 I will try polishing my Shadow 2.
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Folks: ANY pics or instructions for polishing the disco? Thanks.
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Folks: ANY pics or instructions for polishing the disco? Thanks.
David shows the disconnector sitting on the trigger bar to illustrate contact points. Here?s some pictures with a disconnector by itself.
I point to one face, but don?t forget there are two sides.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190107/1b3edee3f99b7b938970d98fbd0ff300.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190107/c9f6dee597085b204944adaeb1b82f1c.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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nice
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Awesome thread with input from many talented peeps - thank you!
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Folks: ANY pics or instructions for polishing the disco? Thanks.
David shows the disconnector sitting on the trigger bar to illustrate contact points. Here?s some pictures with a disconnector by itself.
I point to one face, but don?t forget there are two sides.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190107/1b3edee3f99b7b938970d98fbd0ff300.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190107/c9f6dee597085b204944adaeb1b82f1c.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Any problem taking a demel and felt to the disco? Thanks.
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Folks: ANY pics or instructions for polishing the disco? Thanks.
David shows the disconnector sitting on the trigger bar to illustrate contact points. Here?s some pictures with a disconnector by itself.
I point to one face, but don?t forget there are two sides.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190107/1b3edee3f99b7b938970d98fbd0ff300.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190107/c9f6dee597085b204944adaeb1b82f1c.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Any problem taking a demel and felt to the disco? Thanks.
A dremel can easily take off too much material.
Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
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That?s a good point. I don?t use normal Dremel sanding drums. Even with that caveat and that I use high grit papers... Be careful and follow David?s instructions and advice as to material removal and caution.
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I asked because David's pic of the disco in the trigger bar rear looks mirror polished. IT may be a CGW disco - OK. I used some stones to smooth the disco but left the machine marks.
I was wondering if hitting it with the dremel felt and Flitz would be OK - they only polish.
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I was wondering if hitting it with the dremel felt and Flitz would be OK - they only polish.
Yes it won't caue an issue if you go easy and polish with a Dremel felt and some polishing compound at low speed for a short period of time. But, I haven't felt the need to polish a CGW disconnector. And, if you are in your action you ought to go ahead and install one (along with a cgw adjustable sear) and a CZ comp or CGW hammer of your choice.
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I'm having trouble finding 3M aluminum oxide sandpaper in those grits (400, 800, 1000). Can someone point me to a source?
Thanks!
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I have also been testing a very high content moly grease that can actually lower the DA pull a few ounces by itself, so I add the moly in these critical areas when I do a final reassembly.
Can you tell us what "moly grease" you use (or something similar)?
Thanks!
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Hiya looking Intently, I'd guess a phone call to your local ace,lowes,or home depot should fix your gritty needs without having to shop on amazon.
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It's really simple, here it is. It works well on the rear of the trigger bar that contacts the sear trigger pad and the FPB lifter pad. The top pic is how it looks ready to use, the bottom is how it looks when purchased new.
(https://i.imgur.com/4bWZtbk.jpg)
Does anyone know what number bit this is? I've looked on dremel's site at all the pictures and don't see one like this?
Thanks!
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Hiya looking Intently, I'd guess a phone call to your local ace,lowes,or home depot should fix your gritty needs without having to shop on amazon.
I also thought I heard people talking about automotive shops as source. ... I don't mind shopping online. I'm in Indiana and it is 22 degrees out!
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I have also been testing a very high content moly grease that can actually lower the DA pull a few ounces by itself, so I add the moly in these critical areas when I do a final reassembly.
Can you tell us what "moly grease" you use (or something similar)?
Thanks!
CGW makes it now. You can order it on their site. Mix it with oil to thin it if you are needing a more cold weather option.
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Awesome. Thanks!
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Cheap and easy source for high grit paper 2000+ is WalMart. Go to the automotive section where they have the body work supplies and look on the top shelf. My local store carries supplies up to 5000 grit. 2000 grit is normally about $3.50 a pack and I used a bunch of it on my 75b Omega cleaning up the trigger bar.
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Thanks for the WalMart 'heads up.' ... One thing - looking on Amazon, I saw that the higher grit papers were not aluminum oxide (as Dave said he uses). Is that a big deal?
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It's really simple, here it is. It works well on the rear of the trigger bar that contacts the sear trigger pad and the FPB lifter pad. The top pic is how it looks ready to use, the bottom is how it looks when purchased new.
(https://i.imgur.com/4bWZtbk.jpg)
Does anyone know what number bit this is? I've looked on dremel's site at all the pictures and don't see one like this?
Thanks!
Not a bit, it?s a mandrel for mounting cut-off discs.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190214/9f0c95e7322674af9e2207b31a6c539e.jpg)
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Thanks!
FYI... The part is the: 402 Rotary Tool Mandrel. The official Dremel one is expensive (~$10). There 10-12 piece knock off sets on Amazon for less than $10. For this application, they should work fine.
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Sorry if someone has asked this before and I missed it, am I right in thinking the polishing stuff is either the red or white polishing bar stuff I see in the hardware store? I've heard the white stuff mentioned before as the thing to use on steel, I just want to make sure. I'm about to pick up a punch set so I can finally get my surplus 85 apart and give it a thorough cleaning, I might as well pick up some polishing tools. I've already got up to 1200 grit sandpaper so I'm set there.
Second question: I can't find any tiny buffing wheels, do you buff the whole thing in one go or should I use a q-tip or something in my variable-speed electric screwdriver with the polishing compound for the smaller parts?
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Is this moly grease just Aeroshell 33MS mil-spec moly?
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Hey everyone
I just recently did a trigger job on one of my optic ready Shadow 2’s. It went really well. I’m a metalsmith so have no shortage of awesome jeweller’s tools for polishing and fitting. Jewelry components need to be tightly fitted in order to weld them together, so appropriate tools are important. I used a jewelers saw to polish areas that are hard to reach. Instructions are in my video playlist.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHWtFdijvRr_qwi7Q4_PjU8GQHpdVPcVn
Link to the polishing papers I used on Amazon.ca, pretty sure they’re on Amazon.com as well. By the time you get to the pink polishing paper the metal is already Reling velvety smooth, polishing to the light mint colour takes to a glass finish. Zona 37-948 3M Wet/Dry Polishing Paper, 8-1/2-Inch X 11-Inch, Assortment Pack One Each 1, 2, 3, 9, 15, and 30 Micron https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001BHGC7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zYg1DbEMWG34F
I reduced the D/A trigger pull weight on my Shadow 2 by over 50% with polishing and springs and S/A by 25%. Very smooth.
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awesome
RCG
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Just starting to work on my Tristar P120 SP01 Clone. I have a CGW Shadow as my primary competition gun - want to tune up the P120 as a backup.
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A couple additional areas I clean up are both the trigger well and hammer well on the frame. I noticed light scratch marks on the hammer and trigger sides. A pointed half-round jewelers file with 1500 grit on the file, being sure to stay flat against the frame. I also lightly beveled the edges to further reduce sharp edges. Coupled with all the aforementioned methods, leaves action darn near perfect and no scratches in my CGW hammers.
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A couple additional areas I clean up are both the trigger well and hammer well on the frame. I noticed light scratch marks on the hammer and trigger sides. A pointed half-round jewelers file with 1500 grit on the file, being sure to stay flat against the frame. I also lightly beveled the edges to further reduce sharp edges. Coupled with all the aforementioned methods, leaves action darn near perfect and no scratches in my CGW hammers.
I do this as well, especially the faces of the hammer well. I’m sure you, Steve, know this - but just to make sure others know... if you polish the faces of the hammer well be very very careful not to remove material where the holes for the hammer pin pass through. You can polish, but if you remove material it introduces side to side slop in the hammer.
I’ve even tested removing enough material so paper would slide into the gap between the hammer and sides of the frame, BUT you must make sure NOT to remove material around those holes for the hammer pin. I’ve gotten some super slick triggers from doing this, but be careful.
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I do this as well, especially the faces of the hammer well. I’m sure you, Steve, know this - but just to make sure others know... if you polish the faces of the hammer well be very very careful not to remove material where the holes for the hammer pin pass through. You can polish, but if you remove material it introduces side to side slop in the hammer.
I’ve even tested removing enough material so paper would slide into the gap between the hammer and sides of the frame, BUT you must make sure NOT to remove material around those holes for the hammer pin. I’ve gotten some super slick triggers from doing this, but be careful.
Excellent point. I have polished hammer sides, but I did not change hammer width dimension. The hammer must fall where designed to fall. My SP01 and 97 had tighter tolerances than my P01 to begin with. I used a good digital caliper to check dimensions.
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Hey everyone
I just recently did a trigger job on one of my optic ready Shadow 2’s. It went really well. I’m a metalsmith so have no shortage of awesome jeweller’s tools for polishing and fitting. Jewelry components need to be tightly fitted in order to weld them together, so appropriate tools are important. I used a jewelers saw to polish areas that are hard to reach. Instructions are in my video playlist.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHWtFdijvRr_qwi7Q4_PjU8GQHpdVPcVn
Link to the polishing papers I used on Amazon.ca, pretty sure they’re on Amazon.com as well. By the time you get to the pink polishing paper the metal is already Reling velvety smooth, polishing to the light mint colour takes to a glass finish. Zona 37-948 3M Wet/Dry Polishing Paper, 8-1/2-Inch X 11-Inch, Assortment Pack One Each 1, 2, 3, 9, 15, and 30 Micron https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001BHGC7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zYg1DbEMWG34F
I reduced the D/A trigger pull weight on my Shadow 2 by over 50% with polishing and springs and S/A by 25%. Very smooth.
Enjoyed the videos, and I'm looking forward to trying out your techniques on my new Shadow 2. Hoping the wife doesn't mind if I borrow her jeweler's saw. ;)
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Great content and very helpful! McMaster has a lot of polishing bits. A lot of them even come impregnated with compound of differing grits. Scroll down this page a little and click on “Polishing Bobs”.
https://www.mcmaster.com/buffing-wheels
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Great content and very helpful! McMaster has a lot of polishing bits. A lot of them even come impregnated with compound of differing grits. Scroll down this page a little and click on “Polishing Bobs”.
https://www.mcmaster.com/buffing-wheels
So I bought some of the Polishing Bobs from McMaster. I did this on my P01. I bought these grits 600, 800, 1200 in both 1/4 and 1/2 inch sizes. They are 1/8 shank and I used my Dremel. It was super easy and convenient. I hope this is helpful for those that view this thread.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532086458_12c3c19aff_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532796092_09082e8ddf_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532868927_624e0aa85d_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532071393_95bb08a04e_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532796037_c7a2bea49c_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532071268_9e1dbaac8f_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532572871_7aec6a3d63_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532572811_280a9760d7_z.jpg)
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Wow, that looks super useful. Thanks. Just about to sit down and work on my new CZ97. Maybe I'll wait a bit and order these guys.
Great content and very helpful! McMaster has a lot of polishing bits. A lot of them even come impregnated with compound of differing grits. Scroll down this page a little and click on “Polishing Bobs”.
https://www.mcmaster.com/buffing-wheels
So I bought some of the Polishing Bobs from McMaster. I did this on my P01. I bought these grits 600, 800, 1200 in both 1/4 and 1/2 inch sizes. They are 1/8 shank and I used my Dremel. It was super easy and convenient. I hope this is helpful for those that view this thread.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532086458_12c3c19aff_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532796092_09082e8ddf_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532868927_624e0aa85d_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532071393_95bb08a04e_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532796037_c7a2bea49c_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532071268_9e1dbaac8f_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532572871_7aec6a3d63_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532572811_280a9760d7_z.jpg)
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Great content and very helpful! McMaster has a lot of polishing bits. A lot of them even come impregnated with compound of differing grits. Scroll down this page a little and click on “Polishing Bobs”.
https://www.mcmaster.com/buffing-wheels
So I bought some of the Polishing Bobs from McMaster. I did this on my P01. I bought these grits 600, 800, 1200 in both 1/4 and 1/2 inch sizes. They are 1/8 shank and I used my Dremel. It was super easy and convenient. I hope this is helpful for those that view this thread.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532086458_12c3c19aff_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532796092_09082e8ddf_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532868927_624e0aa85d_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532071393_95bb08a04e_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532796037_c7a2bea49c_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532071268_9e1dbaac8f_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532572871_7aec6a3d63_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49532572811_280a9760d7_z.jpg)
That’s a great resource (McMaster link). Appreciate the info!
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Nice photos
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I had a rough feel to the D/A pull in my 97BD that bugged me since completing the work from before. I finally had time to look into the issue. I thought I may have missed something or foreign crap lodged in the assembly. S/A has been super smooth. Well, I found a burr on the underside of this ledge where the trigger bar rides on it from spring pressure. Removal of burr was a treat, but once done cleaned, tested, and reassembled the trigger feels absolutely smooth.
I edited this post as I thought when the sear cage is installed, the trigger bar does not contact this ledge. Yet, no other issues were found. I checked all three of my CZs. All did not touch the ledge. I guess something was in the mechanism I missed, even after two cleanings. I stand corrected.
Just an FYI if anyone has the same issue. My SP01 & P01 did not.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200407/696264ab233ddf559159e29cdec1ae1d.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
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I had to do the same with my new 97 and a P01 I've had for a while and just got around to polishing. Made a difference for sure.
I had a rough feel to the D/A pull in my 97BD that bugged me since completing the work from before. I finally had time to look into the issue. I thought I may have missed something or foreign crap lodged in the assembly. S/A has been super smooth. Well, I found a burr on the underside of this ledge where the trigger bar rides on it from spring pressure. Removal of burr was a treat, but once done cleaned, tested, and reassembled the trigger feels absolutely smooth.
Just an FYI if anyone has the same issue. My SP01 & P01 did not.
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Seak, I had just edited my post. I wondered if I mis-diagnosed the cause, yet no other change was made. Now I am not sure why the feel changed as I cleaned nothing but the frame prior to reassembling. I'll take the improvement.
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
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Seak, I had just edited my post. I wondered if I mis-diagnosed the cause, yet no other change was made. Now I am not sure why the feel changed as I cleaned nothing but the frame prior to reassembling. I'll take the improvement.
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Man, I just took a look at my 97BD, P01 and SP01 and it looks like you're right - that the bar doesn't touch that ledge when the sear cage is installed. My SP01 comes very close but doesn't rub and that was never a problem. Getting rid of the sharp corners sure seemed to help tho. I wonder if in doing that we smoothed out the area below it some? Crazy but nice find!
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The only way I could duplicate the feel I had was with the trigger bar contacting that area. A little downward pressure giving clearance eliminated the rough feel. I checked hammer strut pin, disco pin, hammer pivot pin, etc. All were smooth as can be. No movement in pins. I had already beveled the edges in the hammer recess. I then pulled the trigger bar and trigger. All was ok. Upon reinstalling them is when I found the issue. Cool! I got it. There was definitely a burr on the ledge. Trigger bar face was smooth. Weird. Whatever, it worked. But it makes no sense and that bugs me.
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
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I had the same exact experience. And yep, a little sanding of the corner seemed to be the solution.
The only way I could duplicate the feel I had was with the trigger bar contacting that area. A little downward pressure giving clearance eliminated the rough feel. I checked hammer strut pin, disco pin, hammer pivot pin, etc. All were smooth as can be. No movement in pins. I had already beveled the edges in the hammer recess. I then pulled the trigger bar and trigger. All was ok. Upon reinstalling them is when I found the issue. Cool! I got it. There was definitely a burr on the ledge. Trigger bar face was smooth. Weird. Whatever, it worked. But it makes no sense and that bugs me.
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
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Can you soak the trigger bar in vinegar overnight to accelerate the removal of the coating? I've seen the done before on polishing barrels.
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Sorry partially off topic:
I ran across this and was wondering why anyone would need it?
COMPETITION TRIGGER BAR SPRING ( -10% POWER ) FOR CZ
https://store.dot40.net/competition-arena/eemann-tech-4724/competition-trigger-bar-spring-10-power-for-cz-3124097
Thank you in advance for any response.
Dionysus220
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Awesome post: wish I can find anything about Single Action gritiness? It is kinda of strange: I don't feel it when dry firing, only in live fire. I have a Eemann Tech com disconnector put in.
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Thank you to Schmeky for starting this thread & the others who’ve added to the tutorial. I ran thru the process on my Compact & upgraded the TRS, TP & FPRP with CGW parts. The trigger pull is much smoother than when I started with a pistol with just under 2600 rounds fired since new. The grittiness is gone from the double action pull. I’m looking forward to getting it to the range.
* Also replaced the slide stop with the new CGW part. Well made & much easier to use than the factory stop.
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Great post! Thanks! Wish I’d of read it before doing the HBI spring kit but what the hell… now I have something to do the next rainy day.
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What are the different ways you polish the inside of the roll pin "holes" ??