Post by: ids on March 01, 2003, 09:53:32 PM
I was thingking of the MPRO7 gun cleaner 
z (for the parts and bore cleaning), MPRO7 lubricator 4oz (for lubricating) and a tube of Blue Wonder foe additional bore cleaning.
Post by: czhead on March 01, 2003, 10:46:13 PM
Post by: ndeeya on March 01, 2003, 10:57:15 PM
breakfree website (http://www.break-free.com/products/products_breakfreeclp.asp?)
Post by: ids on March 02, 2003, 06:11:50 AM
z of MPro7 gun cleaner, 1 4oz of MPro7 Lubricant& ! 12oz f BreakFree CLP Aireosol. I will try BreakFree first till its empty then I will use the Mpro7. Then I will compere which is better for me.
Post by: czerious on March 02, 2003, 09:09:04 AM
czerious
Post by: bullsi1911 on March 03, 2003, 07:59:04 AM
Post by: jbest2 on March 04, 2003, 12:01:15 AM
you know we are limited to only a few but i'm using a kerosene in my gun especially the barrel (not the polymer parts). its cheap and really works! don't use wd-40! use superlube with teflon instead.
Post by: ids on March 04, 2003, 05:47:22 AM
does kerosene good for barrel cleaning? thats really industrious of you. where did you get the idea? So do you submerge the barrel, then wipe it off. then put some lubrication to it. what other parts do you clean with kerosne? (slide, firing pin parts, springs) and where can I purchase superlube? thanks for the info.
ian
Post by: ids on March 04, 2003, 06:03:06 AM
As far as I know, SuperLube is used for oil mixture for engine conditioning/treatment, I'm I right? What parts of the gun do you lubricate with it? Is this SUPERLUBE a brand? If this really works, I really proud of PINOY'S ingenuity.
ids
Post by: jwstox on March 07, 2003, 08:29:43 PM
Post by: mbott on March 07, 2003, 09:24:46 PM
=========================================================================
Date: 01-10-98 19:26 Message #: 249 AirNSun
From: Ed Harris Status: PUBLIC
To: All Ref #: 0
Subject: Ed's Red Revisited Conf: Firearms (72)
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Ed's Red" - - Revisited
By C.E., "Ed" Harris
Since I mixed my first "Ed's Red" (ER) bore cleaner five years ago,
hundreds of users have told me that they find it as effective as
commercial products. This cleaner has an action similar to military
rifle bore cleaner, such as Mil-C-372B. It is highly effective for
removing plastic fouling from shotgun bores, caked carbon in
semi-automatic rifles or pistols, or leading in revolvers. "ER" is not
a "decoppering" solution for fast removal of heavy jacket fouling, but
because is more effective in removal of caked carbon and primer residues
than most other cleaners, so metal fouling is reduced when "ER" is used.
I researched the subject rather thoroughly and determined there was no
technical reason why an effective firearm bore cleaner couldn't be mixed
using common hardware store ingredients. The resulting cleaner is safe,
effective, inexpensive, provides excellent corrosion protection and
adequate residual lubrication. Routine oiling after cleaning is
unnecessary except for storage exceeding 1 year, or in harsh
environments, such as salt air exposure.
The formula is adapted from Hatcher's "Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No.18,"
but substitutes equivalent modern materials. Hatcher's recipe called
for equal parts of acetone, turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil and sperm oil,
and (optionally) 200 grams of anhydrous lanolin per liter into the
cleaner.
Some discussion of the ingredients in ER is helpful to understand the
properties of the cleaner and how it works. Pratts Astral Oil was
nothing more than acid free, deodorized kerosene. Today you would ask
for "K1" kerosene of the type sold for use in indoor space heaters.
An inexpensive, effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron III
automatic transmission fluid. Prior to 1950 most ATF's were sperm oil
based. During WWII sperm oil was mostly unavailable, so highly refined,
dewaxed hydrofinished petroleum oils were developed, which had excellent
thermal stability. When antioxidants were added to prevent gumming these
worked well in precision instruments.
With the high demand for automatic transmission autos after WWII, sperm
oil was no longer practical to produce ATFs in the needed quantities
needed, so the wartime expedients were mass produced. ATFs have been
continually improved over the years. The additives contained in Dexron
include detergents or other surfactants which are highly suitable for
inclusion in an all-purpose cleaner, lubricant and preservative.
Hatcher's Frankford Arsenal No. 18 used gum spirits of turpentine, but
turpentine is both expensive and also highly flammable, so I chose not
to use it. Much safer and more inexpensive are "aliphatic mineral
spirits," which are an open-chain organic solvent, rather than the
closed-chain, benzene ring structure, common to "aromatics," such as
naptha or "lighter fluid." Sometimes called "safety solvent," aliphatic
mineral spirits are used for thinning oil based paint, as automotive
parts cleaner and is commonly sold under the names "odorless mineral
spirits," "Stoddard Solvent" or "Varsol".
Acetone is included to provide an aggressive, fast-acting solvent for
caked smokeless powder residues. Because acetone readily evaporates and
the fumes are harmful in high concentrations, it is recommended that it
be left out if the cleaner will be used indoors, in soak tanks or in
enclosed spaces lacking forced air ventilation. Containers should be
kept tightly closed when not in use. ER is still effective without
acetone, but not as "fast-acting."
"Ed's Red" does not chemically dissolve copper fouling in rifle bores,
but it does a better job of removing carbon and primer residue than most
othert cleaners. Many users have told me, that frequent and exclusive
use of "ER" reduces copper deposits, because it removes the old impacted
powder fouling left behind by other cleaners. This reduces the abrasion
and adhesion of jacket metal to the bore, leaving a cleaner surface
condition which reduces subsequent fouling. Experience indicates that
"ER" will actually remove metal fouling in bores if if it left to
"soak," for a few days so the surfactants will do the job, when followed
by a repeat cleaning. You simply have to be patient.
Addition of lanolin to ER is optional, because the cleaner works
perfectly well and gives adequate corrosion protection and lubrication
without it. Inclusion of lanolin makes the cleaner easier on the hands,
increases its lubricity and film strength and improves corrosion
protection if firearms, tools or equipment will be routinely exposed to
salt air, water spray, or corrosive urban atmospheres.
I recommend the lanolin included if you intend to use the cleaner as a
protectant for long term storage or for a "flush" after water cleaning
of black powder firearms or those fired with military chlorate primers.
This is because lanolin has a great affinity for water and readily
emulsifies so that the bore can be wiped of residual moisture, leaving a
protective film. If you inspect your guns and wipe them down twice
yearly, you can leave out the lanolin and save about $10 per gallon.
At current retail prices you can buy all the ingredients to mix ER,
without the lanolin for about $12 per gallon. I urge you to mix some
yourself. I am confident it will work as well for you as it does for me
and hundreds of users who got the "recipe" on the Fidonet Firearms Echo.
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute
"Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
(Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to
substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:
Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal,
chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA
approved plastic gasoline storage containers are OK. Do NOT use HDPE,
which is permeable, because the acetone will slowly evaporate. Acetone
in ER will attack HDPE over time, causing the container to collapse,
making a heck of a mess!
Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other
components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the
lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking
precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger
container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and
stirring until it is all dissolved. I recommend diverting up to 4 ozs.
per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix to use as "ER-compatible" gun
oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the
remaining mix. Label and safety warnings follow:.
FIREARM BORE CLEANER
CAUTION:
FLAMMABLE MIXTURE
HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN
Contents: petroleum distillates, surfactants,
organometallic antioxidants and acetone
1. Flammable mixture, keep away from heat, sparks or flame.
2. FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician
immediately. In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly
with water and call a physician. For skin contact wash
thoroughly.
3. Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray
mist. It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a
manner inconsistent with its labelling. Reports have associated
repeated and prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with
permanent brain and nervous system damage. If using in closed
armory vaults lacking forced air ventilation wear respiratory
protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or equivalent. Keep container
tightly closed when not in use.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE:
1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is
most effective when done while the barrel is still warm from
firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale
on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The
patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do
not pull it back into the bore.
2. Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the
breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5"
strokes and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the
muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak
will improve its action.
3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled service rifles, leaded revolvers
or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used
to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth,
target-grade barrels in routine use.
4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out
loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the
jag without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished
firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for 1 year
under average atmospheric conditions.
5. If lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the
firearm from rust for up to two years, even in a humid environment.
(For longer storage use Lee Liquid Alox or Cosmolene). "ER" will
readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.
6. Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the
gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the
acetone it contains is harmful to most wood finishes.
7. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry
the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or
jag. First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by
Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as described.
8. I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is used
exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary
after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if
bores are not wiped between shots and shots and are heavily caked
from black powder fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first
to break up heavy fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be
followed by a flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which
could result from residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to
clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART whenever using chlorate primed
ammunition, just to make sure you get all the corrosive residue
out.
This "Recipe" has been placed in the public domain, and may be freely
distributed provided that it is done so in its entirely with all current
revisions, instructions and safety warnings included herein, and that
proper attribution is given to the author.
Reply To: ed.harris@p3006.F120.n109.z1.fidonet.org
Post by: jbest2 on March 10, 2003, 10:49:28 PM
yes, I just put kerosene in ice can then put the barrel and slide into it. I left the barrel and slide for few hours to a day (it depend on how many rounds you've fired) then uses old tooth brush on the slide and bore brush on the barrel. after cleaning, i put some gun oil and superlube on the moving parts.
for polymer part, use clothes with some gun oil on it.
by the way, how many rounds is your 110? have you tried magazine of 100?
Post by: ids on March 10, 2003, 11:26:46 PM
My cz110 has 13rd mags. I do not know if the cz100 mags will fit but as i can tell with its physical appearance, the mags are the same.
Is the kerosene safe for the finish of the slide?
What kind of superlube do you use?
Ian
Post by: griffenboy on March 11, 2003, 08:28:14 PM
Post by: ids on March 11, 2003, 09:34:00 PM
What do you use to clean&lubricate your gun? (bore, slide, ionternal parts and frame). Considering that we are limited resources here in the Phil. Jbest use kerosene and superlube & gunoil to clean his CZ100.
Ian
Post by: X2-Helix on March 24, 2003, 02:02:46 PM
Post by: BobC on June 22, 2009, 11:49:37 AM
I have been using Mpro for a couple of years and I am sold on it. No smell, no fire hazard, eazy cleaning. The lube is expensive but a little goes a long way...
I just tried the Mpro-7 cleaner on my pistol and was mightily impressed. It has a super mild smell and seemed to leave no residue behind when I wiped it off.
With most of the parts, I sprayed some on, let it sit maybe 3 minutes, sprayed a little more on, nylon-brushed and patch-wiped. Things came clean faster than with any product I've tried before.
With the inside of the barrel, I plugged up the muzzle end with a patch, leaned it breach-end-up in a tupperware container, then filled the barrel with Mpro-7, let it sit for a couple of minutes, then used a nylon bore brush followed by patches. I resused the patch that had been plugging up the end of the barrel, as it was soaked and I didn't want to waste the cleaner too much.
I've never seen patches go through my barrel and come out pure white that fast. It was almost like watching one of those too-good-to-be-true ads on TV for miracle cleaning product.
I finished the inside of the barrel with a little CLP on a patch, pushing it through the barrel, thinking, ok, NOW I'll some grey, but no, the patch came through the same color as it started out.
Then a tiny amount of patch-applied CLP to lightly coat the outside of the barrel and the ramp, and the slide/frame rails, reassemble...done. Took me less than 10 minutes.
I should state that I had only put 60 rounds through a previously clean gun, so this was not the nastiest cleaning job.
Post by: jwc007 on June 22, 2009, 12:55:29 PM
For really heavy Lead and Copper fouling in the barrel, I like patches soaked with Noxon7 Metal Polish/Cleaner on a Nylon Bore Brush. I then clean the barrel with a Windex Equivalent, rinse with water, and dry with Disc Brake Cleaner. Turtle Wax Auto-Body Rubbing Compound also removes Carbon and Lead very nicely, but not Copper.
I still use WD40 as a preservative on Blued and Parkerized external surfaces.
For General Lubrication I use a good detergent grade straight 30w Motor Oil. For areas the require only light lubrication, any synthetic 10w30 will do nicely, and in moderately cold weather.
Post by: larryflew on June 22, 2009, 01:29:23 PM
Post by: czstevesr on June 24, 2009, 11:16:39 AM
works good for me.
Post by: shooterdude on June 24, 2009, 11:27:43 AM
For a general solvent, I use a fairly inexpensive Charcoal Lighter Fluid. For a really good bore solvent, I like PB Penetrating Catalyst (PB Blaster) and find it works as well as Ed's Red. I use Non-Chlorinated Disc Brake Cleaner to remove all solvents and clean some inaccessable metal parts and assemblies. For Polymer Frame Assemblies, I use CRC Connector Cleaner. For Polymer Magazine Followers, I spray them down with a Windex Equivalent, rinse in water, and dry.
For really heavy Lead and Copper fouling in the barrel, I like patches soaked with Noxon7 Metal Polish/Cleaner on a Nylon Bore Brush. I then clean the barrel with a Windex Equivalent, rinse with water, and dry with Disc Brake Cleaner. Turtle Wax Auto-Body Rubbing Compound also removes Carbon and Lead very nicely, but not Copper.
I still use WD40 as a preservative on Blued and Parkerized external surfaces.
For General Lubrication I use a good detergent grade straight 30w Motor Oil. For areas the require only light lubrication, any synthetic 10w30 will do nicely, and in moderately cold weather.
Wow! I had no idea that gun cleaning was soooo complicated. I just shoot my guns until they stop working then throw them away and buy new ones.
Post by: Jack Straw on June 24, 2009, 12:56:27 PM
It's nice to hear of another forum member who doesn't obsess on cleaning methods and snake oil.
I used to throw my "soiled" guns away like you but a few years ago I went and fell in love with a Genuine Highly Educated East Coast Card Carrying Liberal Artist Former Hippie gal Therapist who gently suggested that I consider recycling my filthy weapons.
For a time I considered saving the dirty guns in a blue plastic bin and taking them to the recycling center once every three months but I decided to simply bury them in the back yard. We observe this "rite" with a simple non-denominational universalist all inclusive quasi-spiritual non-judgemental holistic centering and chakra cleansing ceremony.
The idea that I'm returning the dirty old metal things to Mother Earth where all iron ore comes from has certainly raised my consciousness and I feel pretty darned smug and self righteous.
I am, however, a little uneasy about all those pesky polymer pistols I buried......I'm thinking their half-life is a little too long for Mother Earth to be comfortable with.
What's a sensitive guy to do?
Post by: BobC on June 24, 2009, 01:24:49 PM
Post by: Rainier42 on June 24, 2009, 02:27:02 PM
shooterdude,
It's nice to hear of another forum member who doesn't obsess on cleaning methods and snake oil.
I used to throw my "soiled" guns away like you but a few years ago I went and fell in love with a Genuine Highly Educated East Coast Card Carrying Liberal Artist Former Hippie gal Therapist who gently suggested that I consider recycling my filthy weapons.
For a time I considered saving the dirty guns in a blue plastic bin and taking them to the recycling center once every three months but I decided to simply bury them in the back yard. We observe this "rite" with a simple non-denominational universalist all inclusive quasi-spiritual non-judgemental holistic centering and chakra cleansing ceremony.
The idea that I'm returning the dirty old metal things to Mother Earth where all iron ore comes from has certainly raised my consciousness and I feel pretty darned smug and self righteous.
I am, however, a little uneasy about all those pesky polymer pistols I buried......I'm thinking their half-life is a little too long for Mother Earth to be comfortable with.
What's a sensitive guy to do?
Those dirty guns are toxic and I think you should continue to get rid of them pronto. Now if you try to recycle them properly it is going to cost you a fortune. Instead, send them to me and I will properly dispose them for you for free. ;D
Post by: Jack Straw on June 24, 2009, 02:34:16 PM
Ranier42, gosh, I hadn't thought about giving them to you. Let me check with Al Gore and see if you are a certified recycler. I'll get back to you.
Post by: BobC on June 24, 2009, 03:26:02 PM
BobC, Yep, guilty as charged. It's not always easy being a smart ass. ::) ::)
It requires hard work and dedication.
Post by: BobC on June 24, 2009, 03:27:42 PM