The Original CZ Forum
CZ PISTOL CLUBS => CZ CLONE CLUB => Topic started by: DexterGSP on March 26, 2014, 06:00:19 PM
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This was my first attempt to make a leather holster. Please try and not to laugh too hard. The avenger style holster actually turned out pretty good. The stitch lines are not as straight as I would like them, but the holster works. My stitch lines should get better with practice. There?s no tension screw so the leather must firmly hold the holster in place, which it does. I can turn the holster up side down and shake it and the pistol does not fall out.
It took me between 25-30 hours to make this holster. The pattern was the hardest part. I then screwed up when I was half way through my first attempt to make the holster and had to start over. I figure now that the patter has been established and I know more about what I?m doing it would take me 8-10 hours to do another holster.
Facts about this holster.
1. Used 8/9 oz. leather.
2. Used nylon thread.
3. Used neatsfoot oil for to re-oil the holster after wet forming.
4. Used beeswax on the edges. Beeswax worked OK, but will switch to gum tragacanth.
5. Used Fiebing?s Deglazer to clean the leather prior to applying neatsfoot oil.
6. Used gum tragacanth to line and seal the inside of the upper portion of the holster.
7. Used two coats of Fiebing?s Leather Sheen and then Kiwi neutral shoe polish as the final finish.
I will next make a single mag pouch and also make an IWB holster (Galco Royal Guard style) for my C-100.
Thanks, Paul
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f382/prsalazar/photo1_zps87cee6eb.jpg)
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f382/prsalazar/photo2_zps966951a2.jpg)
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f382/prsalazar/photo4_zpsdad9be57.jpg)
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f382/prsalazar/photo3_zps95b88918.jpg)
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f382/prsalazar/photo32_zps7cf26536.jpg)
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f382/prsalazar/photo22_zps29d57137.jpg)
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f382/prsalazar/photo12_zpsfffa9207.jpg)
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f382/prsalazar/photo5_zps5d7dfee5.jpg)
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Very cool, well done!
How does it feel?
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It fells pretty good while wearing it. However, it does feel a little top heavy. Part of the problem is that the pistol is a compact. The balance point of the pistol is more toward the rear of the pistol. If the belt slot holes were made higher (gun sitting lower in the holster), maybe 1/2" to 3/4" higher, then I think the pistol would feel more balanced in the holster.
Thanks, Paul
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Does it feel like it is grip/butt heavy?
I'm trying to tell by the pictures (so I might be misjudging it), but it doesn't look like there is much cant in the holster, it's holding your compact pretty much straight up.
Most holsters seem hold the gun around a 15 degree forward angle and I wonder if that would help shift the center of balance to something we are used to.
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Honestly, Ive bought 2 holsters that are the same style. They both feel top heavy, and I think its because the anchor point is in the middle of the holster rather than on both ends. Pancake holsters anchor on each end. Very nice job though Dexter. Feels pretty good to make something yourself, and it works.
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I see absolutely no reason to laugh sir! I like it and admire your skills.
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Honestly, Ive bought 2 holsters that are the same style. They both feel top heavy, and I think its because the anchor point is in the middle of the holster rather than on both ends. Pancake holsters anchor on each end. Very nice job though Dexter. Feels pretty good to make something yourself, and it works.
I agree!
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Does it feel like it is grip/butt heavy?
I'm trying to tell by the pictures (so I might be misjudging it), but it doesn't look like there is much cant in the holster, it's holding your compact pretty much straight up.
Most holsters seem hold the gun around a 15 degree forward angle and I wonder if that would help shift the center of balance to something we are used to.
I copied the Galco version of the Avenger. It does have a cant, maybe closer to 10 degrees.
Thanks, Paul
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I put the C-100 in the holster, close fit, but not exact. The C-100 felt a lot better while wearing the holster on my hip. The C-100, due to its aluminum frame is 11 oz. lighter. The C-100 felt much better balanced due to its balance point being further forward than that of the Stingray-C.
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Way to go! I'm making my first holster as well, a pancake style to be followed by a double mag pouch. I hope mine finishes up as well as yours did. I'm ready to burnish the edges on mine and then start stitching.
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Very very Nice work! 8) I think it shows very good craftsmanship and for a first attempt, I think it's great! :)
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Looks great Paul!!
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very nice holster! areyou thinking about selling them once you get the gun to sit a little lower? Bob
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very nice holster! areyou thinking about selling them once you get the gun to sit a little lower? Bob
I could lower the pistol by about 1/4", which isn't much. I was visiting a friend of mine today who makes leather holsters too. He actually really liked the holster. He wears his belt rather snug and I like to wear mine a little loose. Anyway, he told me to snug up the belt one more notch and see how the holster felt. I did so and boy did it make a difference. The pistol felt much more balance and my top heaviness feeling went away. He made a holster too for his 1911 Officer's model, a pancake style, and he said that my holster actual felt a little more stable than his did. If I do make another holster for the Stingray-C I will drop the pistol down a 1/4", but for now my holster is just fine and perfectly serviceable.
I don't have any aspirations about selling these holsters. There's too much work in them to pay me a fair price for my labor. There's about $20-$25 in material cost and then 8-10 hours of work to make them. Even if I sold them for $80 then I would be paying myself $6 or $7 an hour.
Paul
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Nice work Dexter! Yes. To make a one off holster can take a great deal of time. First you have to make a template out of thin cardboard, then trace that on to the leather and cut it out, then start stitching the leather in the correct order, then cut out the slot for the belt. One can cut the slot first and then stitch around it also.
You could get that 8-10 hours down to 2-3 hours when making, say, 5 at a time. The real time saver comes when you get your leather stitching machine. I use the Cobra 4 full size for my leather work. I make and sell leather heat shields for Victory Cross Country motorcycles on a very part time basis. I have thought about doing holsters once I get my new place with room enough to really get going on it. Of course to do it properly I would need either the exact same type gun or a plastic molded facsimile.
If you do want to take it to the next level; here is the machine to get.
http://www.leathermachineco.com/product/cobra-class-4-p-premium-package/
If you got into a high volume situation where you would be working 8 hours a day and 40+ hours a week then you would want to get die's made and use a clicker machine to stamp out the patterns and slots. If you designed a holster that was kinda generic and left the wet molding to the end user to make it fit his or her exact pistol you could also save time and charge less. The time consuming part at that would be the stitching; even with the best stitching machine on the market.
I think most people would prefer a finished holster and pay the extra cost but I'm fairly sure there are enough people out there who would not mind doing the molding and finishing the leather in a finish of their choosing. Maybe I will get a chance to test my theory.
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I have my template for the Stingray-C and it will help reduce time when making additional holsters for this model.
I agree that making several at one is more efficient than making one at a time.
Unfortunately the stitching process takes the most time for me. I groove, use a roller for the stitch holes, push the diamond awl through the leather, and then stitch. Part of my problem is it?s very time consuming trying to groove and accurately stitch the backside of the second piece of leather since I want both sides of the leather to match in the stitch lines. I agreed that a machine is the way to go, but the nice thing about hand stitching is that I use a modified saddle stitch, which is very strong.
Paul
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Dexter,
That is a good looking holster. I wish I was half as talented with leather working. It would save me an arm and a leg considering I'm a lefty and often have to pay more for my holsters.
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I used to run the leather crafting unit at my prison. I didn't teach them. They taught themselves, and there was some good talent there. Leatherwork is pretty much an art, and you did a fine job on yours. Sure that its the first of many.
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Thanks for all of the positive responses! I wasn't sure if anyone would like the holster before I posted this thread. I'm starting on my IWB C-100 holster tomorrow and it will probably take about two weeks to complete. I'll post pictures when I finish it.
Thanks, Paul