The Original CZ Forum
GENERAL => CZ Gunsmithing => Topic started by: BDG on December 12, 2014, 05:00:31 PM
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USPS comes through in their busiest time of the year...
I hope I can make the time to complete the CGW PRO Kit install this weekend.
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Nice! May the force be with you. Let us know how it goes.
I completed the SRS install last night, its went smooth. Hopefully ill get to the rest of the Pro Package parts this weekend as well.
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Thanks, TOK.
I'm going to photo-document the process start to finish. I know some information will end up being redundant but, I will be using some different equipment to polish the action than that demonstrated in other tutorials so maybe some will find it useful.
Documentation Plan:
1. Stock trigger pull weights
2. Stock trigger resting position, SA reset point (any suggestions on how to best document this visually? I'm still trying to figure this one out, maybe graph paper?)
3. Disassembly
4. Polishing
5. PRO Parts Kit install and reassemble
6. PRO package results for trigger pull weights, trigger resting position and SA reset point. (Another visually challenging task)
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Nice! May the force be with you. Let us know how it goes.
I completed the SRS install last night, its went smooth. Hopefully ill get to the rest of the Pro Package parts this weekend as well.
Glad to hear it was a smooth install too!
Are you happy with the results?
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Nice! May the force be with you. Let us know how it goes.
I completed the SRS install last night, its went smooth. Hopefully ill get to the rest of the Pro Package parts this weekend as well.
Glad to hear it was a smooth install too!
Are you happy with the results?
Yes, quite pleased with the SRS so far. Threw in the 11.5 hammer spring and did a bit of polishing (bottem of sear/sear cage, FPB plunger) and i can feel the difference from that as well. The reset is noticeably shorter. This 85B was already well broken in so all together the action is quite smooth even before polishing the rest of the surfaces. The best part is surely the satisfaction of completing the work at home and gaining a better understanding of the mechanics of the CZ75. A few things that i did not understand are now clear.
I look forward to reading the documentation you have planed. Sounds interesting.
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Here is a breakdown of the work on the P-01. Unfortunately, I did not have a good approach for measuring the resting position of the trigger or the SA reset point, as I would have liked. Taking comparative measurements from the trigger frame was not an option because the triggers were changed out in the PRO Kit upgrade. I'm sure the figures posted by Cajun Gun Works are accurate and indicative of the changes realized here.
Stock P-01 Field stripped
(http://i.imgur.com/tHvSyjCl.jpg)
Jumping into the work; Removing the Ejector/Sear Cage began with removing the hammer decocking lever controler. This was accomplished by lifting the Sear Spring from its set position in the cage. While lifting the spring with a pick or bladed tool also works well, I worked the controller lever with short press and release motions and wedged my thumbnail between the controller and frame to move the lever out. You can also press the controller lever from the right side of the frame to the left with a punch.
(http://i.imgur.com/S59Ilg9l.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/qkpIBpZl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/XoGdZs5l.jpg)
This is the point on the decocking lever controller that engages the decking lever. Polishing this area and the corresponding area on the decocking lever removed the gritty feel.
(http://i.imgur.com/oQKwkrql.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/PKsCnvkl.jpg)
Next remove the fixing insert which is used to retain the sear spring pin. Insert removes by sliding it toward the larger opening. you will notice the insert riding in a channel cut specifically for it when removing it.
(http://i.imgur.com/hDAMoqyl.jpg)
I was now able to remove the Sear Pin by pushing it out with a pin punch from the right side of the frame to the left. I did not intend to remove the full cage assembly in tact so I did not use a slave pin to press out the sear pin. I held my thumb over the assembly when inserting and removing the punch so that the springs wouldn't be launched and lost.
(http://i.imgur.com/GPdxD0jl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/r4n5YcXl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ReBd150l.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Bt9rtSBl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/oHCh892l.jpg)
I next removed the grips. The Main spring plug was removed by compressing the main spring plug against the work bench and pushing out the plug pin which is only held in place by the tension of the main spring. Here is an after the fact image. Removal of the magazine break is achieved by bowing the break in the center and unhooking the break from the plug while it is compressed. Sorry Image was lost.
(http://i.imgur.com/Ft28Yfll.jpg)
Mag break pin is punched out from right to left. The left end of this pin was flattened on its edge to increase resistance at the edge of the frame hole. This step was not necessary for this work being done.
(http://i.imgur.com/spEYeTEl.jpg?1)
I then went about removing the hammer by lifting the hammer pin retaining peg and hammer retaining pin. The peg easily lifts out with a pick and the pin easily pushes out from the right to left side of frame.
(http://i.imgur.com/cB7sBR6l.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/xM7o9FTl.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/oVq7Q1ml.jpg)
And the Hammer assembly (hammer, strut, disconnecter) lift right out.
(http://i.imgur.com/b26eO59l.jpg?2)
Here is a good look at the differences in geometry of the Stock and CGW Hammer and Disconnecters. Note the differences in the hooks...this why I do not polish the sear contact points to the hook. With only .008" to hold onto I want the sear breaking not slipping off the hook. I want some friction in that tiny area for that crisp trigger feel.
(http://i.imgur.com/y7QWAn1l.jpg)
Removing the trigger bar started with driving out the trigger pin. The factory trigger pin is flared at each end to keep it in the gun. A starter punch will help to get this pin started. Keeping with the right to left theme I started the pin out and then switched to a roll pin punch so that I could retain the pin as an emergency back up. Again, I covered the frame opening with my hand when removing the punch so that the spring was not lost.
(http://i.imgur.com/wrwQeAYl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/WQhwyNVl.jpg)
Now the trigger bar assembly can be lifter out.
(http://i.imgur.com/94YVjywl.jpg)
Trigger removal from trigger bar
(http://i.imgur.com/fTylIqgl.jpg)
This trigger bar didn't have as much tooling marks as others I've seen including my SP-01.
(http://i.imgur.com/Wt3suQrl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/gOkfHNPl.jpg)
These grooves ride on a spring mounted in the frame. I debur these grooves with 000 steel wool and using my finger nail to press the steel wool into the groove. I then polish lightly with the wheel and clean the rouge from the groove.
(http://i.imgur.com/QpjNrbLl.jpg)
All the polishing was completed on a 6" wheel. I hold all the parts bare handed so that I am aware of the temperature being generated during polishing and I do not overheat the pieces. The wheel creates a mirror finish with low risk of removing too much material but you must pay close attention to the heat generated by the pad. Keeping the part moving and short polishing times in one area is required.
(http://i.imgur.com/SZmCfO0l.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/sp34RyLl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/jarq0frl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/COmyjrWl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/XA7eKzhl.jpg)
Finished pieces with even minor tooling marks still visible in the mirror finish
(http://i.imgur.com/obwUA95l.jpg)
Polished surfaces that ride against each other
(http://i.imgur.com/Ymi1iAel.jpg)
I next removed the firing pin to install the new CGW extended firing pin and lighter springs. This was done to ensure proper primer ignition with the new 13# main spring. A roll pin punch was used to drive the firing pin roll pin from right side to left side of the slide however the direction for this pin was not directional like others. I think its just a good habit when working on CZ's to remove pins from right to left side of pistol and reinsert from left to right. When removing the roll pin punch the firing pin will spring back against the firing pin block and stop. depressing the FPB will allow removal of the firing pin. once firing pin is removed the firing pin block can be removed. make sure you remove the firing pin spring from the FP chamber.
(http://i.imgur.com/ZKs959cl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/OSefjTyl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/25wKXpSl.jpg)
Now it is time to reassemble all the polished and CGW upgraded components.
I started with the CGW firing pin (FP) assembly. The important part to reassembly of the FP group is to align the channels in the FP so that when fully inserted in the chamber you are able to see cleanly through the roll pin hole without obstruction by the firing pin. Once position of FP is correct, maintain depressed FP and drive in new roll pin. Failing to hold the FP all the way in during installation of roll pin can cause the roll pin to bind on the FP. I used the stock hammer to depress the FP while installing the roll pin with a roll pin starter punch. The right tools for the job make the work pleasurable.
(http://i.imgur.com/Xc2ai2el.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/hHyMhf0l.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/ibywlQvl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/LuqenJol.jpg)
Roll Pin properly installed with opening in the 12 o'clock position.
(http://i.imgur.com/zH9WFSQl.jpg)
I installed the lighter trigger spring and used the slave pin provided in the kit.
(http://i.imgur.com/Zxk8Tp5l.jpg)
With the trigger bar assembly in place and the slave pin holding the trigger spring I was able to hold down the trigger bar with my thumb and work the trigger with my left index to align the trigger spring slave pin and trigger pin holes in the frame. I installed the CGW floating trigger pin which is held in place by the spring. The trigger pin can be started by hand and then a I used a small nylon block to complete install and driving out the slave pin.
(http://i.imgur.com/Gg9oHGPl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/cSiHLX9l.jpg)
The new hammer, hammer strut, disconnecter, and hardened pins drop right in.
Disconnecter drops into position on the trigger bar. Replace hammer pin left to right and hammer pin peg.
(http://i.imgur.com/qm6vux4l.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/iuytshOl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/uxTlSNzl.jpg)
Here is the correct position/setting of the decocker spring... I took these images after assembling the sear cage with a slave pin.
(http://i.imgur.com/8jNHxuqm.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/y4AftrRl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/web6vm8l.jpg)
I reassembled the ejector/sear cage assembly using a slave pin provided in the PRO kit. I used my thumb to press the assembly down onto the trigger bar and reward into place against the hammer and aligned with the sear spring pin holes in frame. Sear spring pin pushes in from left to ride side of frame. Note, if using a slave pin other than one supplied specifically for this application make sure it will fit through the frame hole on the right side of the frame. This hole is smaller than the sear spring pin to prevent the exit of the pin from the ride side of the frame. Replace fixing insert.
(http://i.imgur.com/5HyT8Hwl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/jcVLAYRl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/hDAMoqyl.jpg)
Reinstalled the decocking lever controller by lifting the sear spring and inserting the lever controller until it made contact with the decocking lever. I finished inserting controller by depressing the decocking lever so that the controller contact point could pass over the lever.
(http://i.imgur.com/FujSsM7l.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/F5f6DFXl.jpg)
reinstalled Mag break upper pin left to right
(http://i.imgur.com/RRnk90El.jpg)
installed new 13# main spring. Used the edge of the bench again to compress the main spring and reinstall main spring plug, Mag break and plug pin.
(http://i.imgur.com/eGQJNwTl.jpg)
Finished product
(http://i.imgur.com/3Cp0HT3l.jpg)
Trigger feel is smooth, short, light and crisp.
Looking forward to the next project.
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Awesome detailed pics. Thanks for sharing.
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Nice job on the pictorial, very well done! Thx for posting.
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Great pics and details.
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Nice pics!!
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BDG, thank you for taking the time to post this reference on the CZ decockers. Well done indeed. It will come in handy when i dig into my PCR and or 97 BD. I am sure it will be of value to others working on there decockers as well, Bookmarked.
On another note, that is the nicest trigger bar i have seen. I was not aware that they ever looked that way stock.
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Thank you all for the kind words.
TOK, I'm jealous of your 97BD. It looks like time is going to run out before I get the chance to have my own 97B or BD here in Ca. Can't wait to move to America one day. Maybe I'll have the luck of running into you at the range one day.
The trigger bar on my SP-01 was deeply scared by tooling and had multiple wear points on the outer profile where it brushed the frame. I had 4x the polishing required on the SP-01 trigger bar.
This is also why I believe the P-01 had a very respectable stock trigger pull.
Oh Yes, I measured the trigger weights with the GPS trigger scale and pull weights were duplicated with a RCBS.
A process I completed before and after reassembly but did not photo was the degreasing, cleaning, and hot application of Frog Lube using all FL products, not a cheep decision unfortunately. I decided to run the SP-01 and P-01 completely on Frog Lube from the start so I had to use the frog lube cleaners to strip the factory protectants, machining lubes and coolants. Stay tuned.
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Another book make added. Great post I have the same bag of parts from CGW got in mail today. Get gun from 10 day wait on the 26th . Going to order 85 trigger forgot it.. Thanks for the pics...
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Another book make added. Great post I have the same bag of parts from CGW got in mail today. Get gun from 10 day wait on the 26th . Going to order 85 trigger forgot it.. Thanks for the pics...
Thanks Gary2232.
You are going to be ecstatic with the results of polishing and the PRO kit.
I'll be completing the same work on a 97BD around the end of the month. My 97 10day is up on the 27th.
I'm still working on a good way to measure via a photo, the trigger position before and after the upgrade as well as improve my photo work on the Decocking mechanism smoothing.
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This is a great thread, and a great companion to schmeky's polishing sticky.
Thanks for all the documentation effort BDG!
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TOK36; the trigger bar on my PCR also looked very smooth and uniform, smoother than pictures on the Forum, but this is due to the black rust preventive coating. When I stoned the sides of the bar, it revealed more tooling marks. Not bad though, the sides just needed minor smoothing/polishing.
Ed
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TOK36; the trigger bar on my PCR also looked very smooth and uniform, smoother than pictures on the Forum, but this is due to the black rust preventive coating. When I stoned the sides of the bar, it revealed more tooling marks. Not bad though, the sides just needed minor smoothing/polishing.
Ed
Ed, were the sides of your trigger bar showing wear from rubbing against the inside of your frame in more than just small spots?
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I noticed the marks add well after polishing the trigger section.
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Thanks for the good pictures. It brought back memories (mostly good) from doing modifications on the 75 BD Police. You made it look easy.
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BDG: No, there were no wear marks on my trigger bar's sides. When I realized the smooth appearance was the rust preventive coating, I got curious about it and stoned the sides. This revealed tool marks, but not bad at all.
And thank you so much for your excellent post and photos. There aren't many of the decocker sear cage assembly, and yours was very useful as I smoothed my PCR and installed the 3-spring kit.
Reassembly has been difficult, but educational. I've had to make up a firing pin block spring (part #15) to replace the one that slipped off into the night. At least it's the simplest spring in the gun.
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Thank you Edshot,
I recently completed the same work on a 97BD and posted the work in the 97B threads. When working on the 97 I noticed that the Poly coat on the pistol seemed heavier than my SP01 and P01. Also there appears to be some rough finish work under the Poly coating as well. I want to eventually have the Poly removed and the pistol professionally Blue'ed. I just hope the metal finish underneath will allow it. otherwise, hello Cerakote.
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BDG, thanks for this. I just did my P-01 and it was a lot of help.
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Thanks for the great post. I plan to use it as a road map for my next CZ project on a P-06
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Hello Bill 9mm and Sunkist,
Thank you for your kind words. You are most welcome and I'm glad you found the post helpful. I'm sure you have found that the OCZ site is filled with good people and good information.
Happy shooting and best regards,
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Hello Bill 9mm and Sunkist,
Thank you for your kind words. You are most welcome and I'm glad you found the post helpful. I'm sure you have found that the OCZ site is filled with good people and good information.
Happy shooting and best regards,
Welcome back BDG. :)
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Great thread. I've read thru it 2 times. I've just bought a 75 P-01 that is really is in need of this work. I was really disappointed in the double action trigger pull. I have a clone (Mossad), that has the best trigger pull of all my guns so I know someone has done this to that gun before I received it. One question, What type buffing wheel did you use? Thanks for the time you spent to do this thread.
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Great thread. I've read thru it 2 times. I've just bought a 75 P-01 that is really is in need of this work. I was really disappointed in the double action trigger pull. I have a clone (Mossad), that has the best trigger pull of all my guns so I know someone has done this to that gun before I received it. One question, What type buffing wheel did you use? Thanks for the time you spent to do this thread.
Hi Pontiacjim,
Thank you.
I really enjoyed doing the work and still couldn't be happier with the KEEPER pistol it produced. I'm sure you're P01 is destined to become a new favorite.
The buffer is a Craftsman 6" Bench Top Buffer.
BDG
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I hate to revitalize the dead, especially as a brand new member (!) but are the pics really gone or is it my PC?
I am trying to be patient and read and search and know my stuff before I post anything. This thread just really seems like one I'd love to see the pics, and is exactly the info I seek. It was referenced in another thread on here:
http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=72130.msg510334#msg510334
Thank you kindly!
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Huh. The pics are gone.
Hopefully BDG can get them reloaded.
Just to add, I PM'ed BDG. So hopefully he still has the pics.
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Sorry, I switched photo hosting my site and forgot to update this post.
I will get the images back up and add some new additions when I get back to the states next week.
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Sorry, I switched photo hosting my site and forgot to update this post.
I will get the images back up and add some new additions when I get back to the states next week.
Oh, please do not go to any trouble on my account good folks! I really thought it was an error on my end and wanted to just confirm. This forum has been fantastic and is a great way to fill that 10 day wait!
I really appreciate the help BTW, cntrydawwwg!!!
Side Note:
Oddly, I am here on this forum (and now owner of a CZ) as a result of looking @ Sig stuff on Google, and it was a posting I read on this forum (no way to recall which one now) that did it. All I recall is the comment stuck in my head and it went like this:
(in reply to someone defending their love of Sigs)
"I understand you love Sigs, and no doubt it is a great weapon. However, if reliability is your utmost concern - look at the CZ P-01. There are those of us that love them and find with just a little work they perform quite well, some even say close to the Sig - if not a bit better with some parts and polishing for a fraction the cost of the Sig. It is certainly worth a look anyway, hope you find what fits your needs......."
Paraphrasing, but that was my recollection of it. I knew nothing about "CZ's", and frankly I've spent my life sticking to collecting the "classic" names: Colt, Glock, Sig, Springfield, Remington Smith and Wesson, Etc.
IDK why, but the kindness in the tone from the "CZ guy" on here was shocking to me when I read it. I had to look into this gun. And this forum.
What I found is a really great forum, about a really great manufacturer of guns, with a really great group of inhabitants! I am grateful to you all.
So I searched the P-01. Forever, it seemed, but probably only a good 40 hours online + hitting up the few ranges I frequent and speaking to people there + my gun shops + a couple friends later and.... Darnit, this is one helluva gun and I had absolutely zero idea!!!
Tuesday is the day I get the P-01. Thanks again all!
Have a great day!
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^^I officially request pictures of said P-01 when and if it is convenient.
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^^I officially request pictures of said P-01 when and if it is convenient.
+1
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To set the record straight, my gun was test fired 3-6-16 @ CZ. My rear sight had a set screw and it was 1.5mm.
Here are pic of the new weapon. I was successful (mostly) in installing the front and rear sights without issue. I lost the little pin for the front but CGW tracking number says that (and a few other spares) will be delivered today so no harm, no foul.
Anxious to get to the range!
Sorry guys, having a real hard time with posting pics. I have searched for info on the site to no avail, I will keep at it and get them up soon I hope!
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Posting pics ( From the FAQ section)[emoji6]
http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=14704.0
Long story short, you need to host pics to an offsite host like image shack. Then link from there.
If using a mobile device, install the Tap a Talk app. You can post directly from the app.
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Thanks so much for the help! Here are a few pics. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/2c69ed4c6a66366acc2e98837b4dbe23.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/afc56ac43eee901375e89d611a8db16a.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/f0d9237d9e39f32df16849f63e61b948.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/94fb4afcf1c52ef44cd54d33631f6caa.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/7abc53dbec4a30834ec190ba1c915653.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/ad8dc58034a0f2db4b34c7a9284c4969.jpg)
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Wow, Tap A Talk sure was the easier route for the pics, eh? Thank you again Cntrydawwwg!
Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
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Your welcome. Pics look good, now you just need to play around with resizing them a little smaller[emoji6]
800x600 or smaller works better for those viewing on a computer screen. I've used one of the resizing apps called Simple Resize. Works great. [emoji6]
Also my Tap a Talk app for I Phone asks for your preferred size, so yours might too.
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Images are back up.
Thanks for your patience.
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Thanks so much for the help! Here are a few pics. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/2c69ed4c6a66366acc2e98837b4dbe23.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/afc56ac43eee901375e89d611a8db16a.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/f0d9237d9e39f32df16849f63e61b948.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/94fb4afcf1c52ef44cd54d33631f6caa.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/7abc53dbec4a30834ec190ba1c915653.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160420/ad8dc58034a0f2db4b34c7a9284c4969.jpg)
Nice looking shooter...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk