The Original CZ Forum
GENERAL => Ammunition, questions, and handloading techniques => Topic started by: steerclr on January 17, 2015, 06:25:42 PM
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Anyone know if the Lee Auto discs were made in sizes smaller than .30 to .43 disc? Lee reloading charts for my 32 S&W Long indicate to use loading disc with sixes from .15 to .27 depending on the bullet and powder. Can't find them listed anywhere, maybe a discontinued part?
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First keep in mind that your auto disks are a cover their behind number which is almost always a lower charge than they say it will be in Lee charts. If you need smaller line one with electrical tape, check charge and start cutting some out if charge is too small at that point or add another loop if too big.
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I realize one can modify the cavity, I was wondering did they ever make smaller sizes since the loading charts mention them?.
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They are available as options at an additional price. Just call Lee or look at one of their dealer web sites. Midway USA might be a good one.
;)
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I read they quit making them, but they are still available aftermarket and places with old stock (?):
Like here: https://fsreloading.com/catalogs/lee-precision/disk-powder-measure.html
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Lee once made the "micro disc conversion unit" that allowed for smaller charges. From what I have read the molds used to make them were broken and were too costly to replace so they discontinued the product.
There is someone on eBay selling a cast resin copy of the Lee product. Search eBay for "Lee Micro Disc". The same people also sell a disc with no holes so you can drill whatever size you need.
Titan Reloading is selling a 3D printed version: http://www.titanreloading.com/powder-handling-equipment/titan-micro-charge (http://www.titanreloading.com/powder-handling-equipment/titan-micro-charge)
You can also find used original Lee versions on eBay (there is actually one there now). This is what I did.
Good Luck.
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I read they quit making them....
Ah ! The perfect excuse to buy a 3D printer !! ;D
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Thanks Guys! I really appreciate the help. I was assuming they went out of production.
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I ran across this idea on the net. Looks easy enough. Don't know how accurate it would be.
(http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy117/SMasterson72/Powdermeasure002_zps8655520b.jpg) (http://s783.photobucket.com/user/SMasterson72/media/Powdermeasure002_zps8655520b.jpg.html)
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Accurate is not too important, as long as it's consistent - which that screw arrangement should be.
You might even be able to count the number pf exposed threads and calibrate it (kinda like making a mini version of the adjustable charge bar)
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The problem with the Lee adjustable charge bar is the cavity doesnt line up under the hopper when you are trying to throw small charges. My solution was to move the cavity backward. You need some JB Weld, thin cardboard like a business card, and some masking tape. Form a little mold with the cardboard and masking tape, pour in the JB Weld and let it set up. After its formed up take off the tape and cardboard, remove any excess JB Weld with a razor blade, and smooth up the whole thing with some fine grit sandpaper. It will look a little something like this when finished.
(http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr292/dave33-33/7E8153E4-40D9-4647-8C6E-74252EA316DF.jpg)
I like this better than putting a screw in the discs for a couple reasons, first powder cant sit on top of the screw and not make it into the load and second, even though the original numbers on the charge bar dont mean much now, once you have your powder charge where you want it, just take note of the reading on the charge bar and you can easily duplicate it later. I have switched between a few different loads and powders and it couldnt be easier.
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Thanks Dave33 for the idea. I had seen that charge bar but knew it would need to be modified to try to get it down to the .18 size I needed for loading.
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My two ACBs wouldn't work with that short shim. They really miss the charge hole and have to be opened to about 1.0cc, and they aren't consistent even then.
Get the micro disks or get a different measure.
I crank them out on my old ChargeMaster--it keeps up well with my 1050s, but for very small charges it can't get out of "trickle" mode since any higher speed will overshoot.
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I have a hobby machine shop at my home. I could possibly make a set of "bushings" to drop into one of your unused holes, similar to what a MEC shotgun loader uses, but smaller.
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The problem with the Lee adjustable charge bar is the cavity doesnt line up under the hopper when you are trying to throw small charges. My solution was to move the cavity backward. You need some JB Weld, thin cardboard like a business card, and some masking tape. Form a little mold with the cardboard and masking tape, pour in the JB Weld and let it set up. After its formed up take off the tape and cardboard, remove any excess JB Weld with a razor blade, and smooth up the whole thing with some fine grit sandpaper. It will look a little something like this when finished.
(http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr292/dave33-33/7E8153E4-40D9-4647-8C6E-74252EA316DF.jpg)
I like this better than putting a screw in the discs for a couple reasons, first powder cant sit on top of the screw and not make it into the load and second, even though the original numbers on the charge bar dont mean much now, once you have your powder charge where you want it, just take note of the reading on the charge bar and you can easily duplicate it later. I have switched between a few different loads and powders and it couldnt be easier.
Hi Dave33, What product of JB Weld did you use? I am not sure which one would be best suited? Cheers
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I recently ran into something like this on my Dillon. I needed the smallest powder bar version, which is special order. I also needed another powder measure to run it in. Although you can order a PM with the Large or the Small powder bar, you cannot order a PM with the Smallest bar. That ticked me off from the start, so I bought a used PM on Ebay.
So I had envisioned that this Smallest powder bar was a special design with a small slide. When it arrived, it was nothing more than the standard Small powder bar (like I already owned 2 of) with the notch filled in. Jezz. I could have done that with filler epoxy on one of the Small powder bars I already owned.
>:(
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Hi Dave33, What product of JB Weld did you use? I am not sure which one would be best suited? Cheers
Any "Filler" type epoxy. These are highly viscous (so that they stay in place while curing) compounds used to fill in gaps or large holes. They are typically in the opaque gray color range, and have a 24hr cure time. Any number of epoxies sold at the hardware store will work, they are all generally called "JB Weld" because JBW was simply one of the first.
Your biggest issue is going to be adhesion, and this is because a great many plastic molders use a silicone-based mold release. Nothing sticks to a surface treated with silicone, so you might actually end up taking a pocket knife and trimming off the exterior surface. That's not a bad idea anyway, since the epoxy will grip a rough surface better than a smooth one. One last bit... if you need to build a dam to guide the epoxy, I've found that regular Scotch tape does great.
;)
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Speaking of machining powder bushings....
Here's a set of bushings in transit to Mr Painter for his shotgun reloading. He didn't have a small enough powder bushing, so I sleeved a larger spare "H" bush (on the Left) down to the appropriate size.
(https://i.imgur.com/eagiqew.jpg)
Just trying to shelter-in-place. ;)
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Speaking of machining powder bushings....
Here's a set of bushings in transit to Mr Painter for his shotgun reloading. He didn't have a small enough powder bushing, so I sleeved a larger spare "H" bush (on the Left) down to the appropriate size.
(https://i.imgur.com/eagiqew.jpg)
Just trying to shelter-in-place. ;)
...and to repay Mr. W for his kindness...I'm sending a flat rate mailer full of this...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7e8PGmX-LbCibUohS35nVvW57WwjC7fCd6QW6UNW0Rr9MldoZkapAL_gUJ05HIMcEQ5Nls5sfaCDlyr7EqgyY1JZm5UwGgjJEzaAwIsTEayPhVe0DtiiDP7IbOaO0Aimz0mNwofPAQ=w2400)