The Original CZ Forum
GENERAL => General Discussion => Topic started by: bronx1924 on November 15, 2015, 10:46:11 AM
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Hi all... I use shooters choice FP-10 as my CLP, I was looking around at other manufacturer's to see if there might be something better to use. I came across a CLP called weapon shield and read some of the reviews, people are saying that this product is the best on the market hands down. Anybody use it? And what is your opinion of it
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Never used it but I think Eezzox is the best hands down. I'd use it more if it were cheaper. I've found Tetra has been a fine but weird smelling lube.
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Never used it. Everyone has their opinion as to what is "best". The best gun lube is the one that you use as a regular part of a good gun cleaning routine. I've used CLP for years and seen no appreciable wear in any of my guns, revolvers and semi-autos alike and they are used and cleaned very often. over 30k rnds through my 75 BD and it's as tight as can be.
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The only products I won't use are the ones that require your firearm to be surgically clean before application and never to be used with anything else.
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The only products I won't use are the ones that require your firearm to be surgically clean before application and never to be used with anything else.
Are there products other than Froglube in that class?
I've been using Breakfree CLP for the last 30 years.
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Fireclean directs you to use alcohol to degrease your firearm before applying their product.
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Another Breakfree user here. But as has been pointed out, you're not going to get a general consensus on what brand. It's all personal choice. The only thing most of us will agree on is that CZ's like to run a little wet.
Doesn't matter how clean your pistol is as long as you keep it wet. Just do a search on forum member JoeL and you'll see what I mean. [emoji2][emoji6]
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If you use FP-10, then you will like Weapon Shield as well. FP-10 was created by George Fennel (insert long story here about being bought by Shooters Choice). Weapon Shield is a better version, or newer version, of FP-10. I have used both for a long time.
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Lots of options and opinions on gun lubes. Am currently using Weapon Shield on my Sigs, Walthers and CZ P-01. Works well for me. My guns clean nicely and a little goes a long way. They have some interesting tests on Weapon Shield's lubricant properties posted on-line if you like that sort of information.
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i just buy a small sample to try and make up my own mind.
what is good today may not be tomorrow.
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10w-30
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I use tri flow, it works really well for me. It also seems to clean a little bit as it sits. I use it on my motorcycle, car locks, and a few others. Place I used to work sold alot of it to service men for door locks etc, one told me he uses it on his guns and really liked it so I tryed it and now that's mainly what I use. I've use motor oil, gear lube, ewl, fp-10, tetra, clp, gunzilla, and quite a few others and I like tri flow the best. Not saying it's the best, but it fits my needs the best.
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Gun lubricant, it might be easier to discuss religion and politics O0
I use frog lube myself.
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Mobil 1. A few bucks for a "multi-decade" supply.
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I use grease (a moly mix from CGW or Weaponshield) on the slide and use Hornady OneShot everywhere else.
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I use rem oil for parts and removing fingerprints and stuff. I use extreme weapons grease 2000 to lube my slides. Works great for me so far
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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We sell quite a bit of M-Pro7, Slip 2000, and Breakfree.
Personally, I use non-chlorinated disc brake cleaner and Mobil 1 0W-40 full Synthetic. :o
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I use whatever they pass out at matches. It is hands down the best lube on the market, no one else can come close on value
Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.
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Free is good!!! :D
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I used to use FP10 until the original was bought out and George Fennel started weaponshield and updated the formula. Since then I've used Weaponshield exclusively.
I should say I've tried just about everything on this list. I'm not crazy about using motor oil as they're hazardous. Slip 2000 worked very well, but in the desert it's pretty thin and evaporates quickly during the summer months.
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Right now using clp for the "C" part and Mobil 1 0W20 synthetic for the final "L" part.
Wondering what to do when the small bottle of CLP runs out. Maybe fill it with Mobil1 from the quart?
Hoppes 9 comes into play occasionally for barrel cleaning-- some rifles.
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For Lubrication: One "Pocket Clip PIN OILER" and the "empty jugs" of my truck's Mobil 1 drained into it.
A lifetime supply in any Temperature your trigger finger can withstand.
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Mostly, I use Break Free CLP for the parts that pivot and Brownells Action Lube Plus, for the parts that slide. (It's a black moly-looking grease.)
I have other gun lubricants too, including FP-10 that I may use as well.
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I should say I've tried just about everything on this list. I'm not crazy about using motor oil as they're hazardous.
I disagree. At least for the synthetics! Even Kommifornia gubmint experts recognize the lack of risk of type IV oils to people, animals and the environment.
Maybe you are thinking about USED engine oil, which they consider haz waste and thus encourage rightful recycling of???
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Weapon Shield/Frog Lube/Slip 2000/CLP/LSA/TW-25B/spit. They all work. Well, maybe not spit. I use a quart of Mobil 1 full synthetic 0W-20 that I bought about 6 years ago. I have gone through about... 1/4 of it.
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Tyerone is right. Unused motor oil is pretty safe. Why should it be more hazardous than fancy snake oil?
Type V (ester based) motor oils are even better. They cling to metal surfaces. In Europe producers are Motul for instance. Just look for ,,ester'' writing on the can. Motul 300V competition is example.
In States Red Line I think.
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Every one has their own favorites and they all work if you use them. I use remoil by the quart. It is always on the bench for lubing and wiping the internal parts and outsides of the guns. I also use Hoppe's and like it because it is clear and a little thicker than Rem oil. CLP gets good reviews in tests. There are several good ones out there at decent prices. You do not need to pay $19.95 for 2 OZs of hyped gun oil when you can get a 2 oz Hoppes at wallmart for $2.95. Beleive me it will not make a difference if you do your part right. Clean after shooting, and wipe the outside with generous amount of oil. Wipe it clean and dry befor your next use of the weapon. The only exception is if you are in combat and the weapon or the enviroment requires Special Lube. Mobile synthetic grease or any thin wheel bearing grease from the Auto shop will work for the rails. if you like to use grease on the rails use sparingly cause it makes things sticky if you use too much. That is 5 or $6 bucks for a multi life time supply of grease instead of $15 for a one OZ tube of the so called Gun Grease (many brands)
The ones I have not used and will avoid are ones that are alegedly food safe, vegatable based/organic :o (read non petrolium base) like Frog lube and many other wonder lubes that are comming out every day and the Stincky ones like Ballistol.
Lastly, do not get me wrong (new here). I am not stingy with money or poor (thank god) but do not like hyped up and/or deceitful marketing targetting the new gun buying folks out there. :)
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FWIW I've been using a home brew called Ed's Red. Haven't had any problems. you can fined it here http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm
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MPro7 LPX
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I am old school, still use Hoppes cleaner and gun oil, works for me. ;)
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A couple days late here but I am currently using Lucas and like it so far. Just my $.01
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We sell quite a bit of M-Pro7, Slip 2000, and Breakfree.
Personally, I use non-chlorinated disc brake cleaner and Mobil 1 0W-40 full Synthetic. :o
About 7qts of this stuff goes into my Dodge SRT8 but haven't used it on a gun yet.
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Dextron 3 Automatic Transmission Fluid, Rem oil, grease, Winchester oil, Mobil 1 synthetic.
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Three pages and no Ballistol ? I've tried a bunch and most seem to do there job, but mostly stick with CLP and Ballistol.
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I use synthetic motor oil on all my firearms. I'm sure some people will call me crazy.
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Mobil 1. A few bucks for a "multi-decade" supply.
Same here. I use Mobil 1 oil for all my gun lube needs as well as Mobil 1 grease for my shotguns.
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I use whatever cheapo CLP Walmart has for sale when I need some. I've never used motor oil but I'm sure it would work fine.
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For 35 years I used WD-40 as a cleaner and lube. Now before someone says you never put that on a firearm, I will tell you that Uncle Sam issued it for cleaning my M16A1 and later A2 rifles from 84 to 88. Once I started working at the Range I used Tetra because that was a what they sold.
Lots of people gave us samples and I agree that any lubricant will do the job. Heck I shot my Glock once after cleaning with brake clean for 1000K rounds with no lube and never had an issue....never cleaned it either in that time. I believe the burnt powder made it's own lube. I do like Mobil one on rails and sporting rifles.
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Slip2000 EWL is by far the slickest and easiest to use that i've seen. Wash gun out with hot water, dry, use the EWL.
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Depending on gun, mood, and whether or not I've unpacked from my latest move, either:
Frog Lube (which works as advertised)
or
Royal Purple 10W-30
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Mobil 1 in a hypodermic for me!
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a263/Friar_Tuck_/Firearms/IMG_20151225_075640163_zpslqpgb1r4.jpg) (http://s13.photobucket.com/user/Friar_Tuck_/media/Firearms/IMG_20151225_075640163_zpslqpgb1r4.jpg.html)
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So, Not trying to stir the pot, but why do some people oil the slide and some grease it? Does it really make a difference or is it one of those "this is how I learned so its what I do" things?
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So, Not trying to stir the pot, but why do some people oil the slide and some grease it? Does it really make a difference or is it one of those "this is how I learned so its what I do" things?
I think a lot of it is personal choice. I never used Molly/grease until the last couple years. Seems to stay on the slide longer than oil in the summer. In winter (currently 3 deg. ) I use Breakfree. Just personal choice. Had a rifle bolt freeze shut with Rem oil once. Never has happened since I switched to CLP Breakfree. [emoji6]
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So, Not trying to stir the pot, but why do some people oil the slide and some grease it? Does it really make a difference or is it one of those "this is how I learned so its what I do" things?
It seems to be one of those things where it just depends who taught you. Either method works.
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It's because the professional shooters that push/use a product. They wouldn't lie! It's not like they get paid for an endorsement or something. 😄 Just like Forrest Gumps Flex-o-Lite ping pong paddle. 😜
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So, Not trying to stir the pot, but why do some people oil the slide and some grease it?
I oil my slide. If I greased it and tried to shoot it outdoors this time of year...it wouldn't move.
FWIW, it was -14 when I opened the store this morning at 8:00. This is one of the reasons I have had good luck with dual-weight automotive oils.
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Where do you live, Siberia?
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Where do you live, Siberia?
Montana...but it's been an abnormally warm winter this year.
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I oil my slide. If I greased it and tried to shoot it outdoors this time of year...it wouldn't move.
FWIW, it was -14 when I opened the store this morning at 8:00. This is one of the reasons I have had good luck with dual-weight automotive oils.
Agreed. Lube choice is very dependent on ambient conditions. I'll be in the mountains later this week, hopefully, and there won't be much grease in anything that I want to move. Expecting around 10F. Keep'em wet, not dry, and not sticky.
Joe
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Confidence heals and faith saves
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I use Mobil 1 on all my guns.... works great and much cheaper than other gun lubricants,
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Confidence heals and faith saves.
Faith is the belief in things unseen. I like to see my lubricant.
Gimme Mobil 1.
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Hi Tracer and Wobbly,
Back in 1984, I changed the OEM oil of my Jetta for Mobil 1....I gained 100km per tank.
The car even started in november (cold here) with the four glow plugs defective.
If the stuff is good for a diesel engine, no doubt it will be good for my gun.
I'll give it a try....thanks.
Dan
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I use Ballistol and Tetra Gun Grease.
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There is a comprehensive write up on "TheFiringLine" forum in the form of a sticky named "Results of gun care product testing" that I found interesting. Maybe way more thinking involved than needed, but if it ends up preserving a cherished CZ, why not. Many well known/well advertised products performed poorly.
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=92f16abd0377d64ab00bbe2363c2d3de&t=546316
In the end it comes down to three products after extensively comparing numerous advertised as gun care and just stuff around the house. For what it's worth they are (not necessarily in this order):
1. Frog Lube
2. WD 40 Specialist (not the same as basic WD 40 everybody has around)
3. Hornady One Shot
Read the post for yourselves, Frog Lube it is for me. (Though I bet I can think of a use or two for the quart of Mobil 1 I have around here also now many of you mention it...)
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There is a comprehensive write up on "TheFiringLine" forum in the form of a sticky named "Results of gun care product testing" that I found interesting. Maybe way more thinking involved than needed, but if it ends up preserving a cherished CZ, why not. Many well known/well advertised products performed poorly.
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=92f16abd0377d64ab00bbe2363c2d3de&t=546316
In the end it comes down to three products after extensively comparing numerous advertised as gun care and just stuff around the house. For what it's worth they are (not necessarily in this order):
1. Frog Lube
2. WD 40 Specialist (not the same as basic WD 40 everybody has around)
3. Hornady One Shot
Read the post for yourselves, Frog Lube it is for me. (Though I bet I can think of a use or two for the quart of Mobil 1 I have around here also now many of you mention it...)
That's pretty comprehensive all right. I would have liked to see how Mobil 1's Fully Synthetic Extended Performance would've done instead of Pennzoil. The picture in that thread was of Pennzoil's dino oil, not their synthetic. No wonder it did so poorly.
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BreakFree and Mil-Comm TW25B grease.
Will and do use up whatever else I have around.
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Where do you live, Siberia?
Montana...but it's been an abnormally warm winter this year.
;D
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That's pretty comprehensive all right. I would have liked to see how Mobil 1's Fully Synthetic Extended Performance would've done instead of Pennzoil. The picture in that thread was of Pennzoil's dino oil, not their synthetic. No wonder it did so poorly.
In his write up I think he said he got a small amount of Pennzoil synthetic from a local oil change outfit. Might have just used that bottle to bring it home. Dunno, but considering how specific he was about the various products tested it was probably the synthetic.
Just seemed like a good batch of info for anyone interested.
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As someone who goes through a lot of gun cleaning supplies in a year I look for products that provide the most bang for the buck (pun intended). While I agree that synthetic motor oil is an excellent gun lube (some non-military federal agencies used it almost exclusively in their M-4's and reported zero lube related failures) it is a poor cleaning solvent. After 23 years in the military some things stick, and what stuck in regards to weapons cleaning is BreakFree CLP. It works great under a wide variety of environmental conditions, can be found in any Wal-Mart and most gun stores and if you buy it in the 'large economy size' it is fairly economical.
So BreakFree and a small tube of a good grease (I use Tetra) should be all you need to keep everything in your gun safe running smoothly.
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As someone who goes through a lot of gun cleaning supplies in a year I look for products that provide the most bang for the buck (pun intended). While I agree that synthetic motor oil is an excellent gun lube (some non-military federal agencies used it almost exclusively in their M-4's and reported zero lube related failures) it is a poor cleaning solvent. After 23 years in the military some things stick, and what stuck in regards to weapons cleaning is BreakFree CLP. It works great under a wide variety of environmental conditions, can be found in any Wal-Mart and most gun stores and if you buy it in the 'large economy size' it is fairly economical.
So BreakFree and a small tube of a good grease (I use Tetra) should be all you need to keep everything in your gun safe running smoothly.
Yeah, I don't plan to use the M1 for cleaning at all. I bought some BreakFree CLP over the weekend. I read it's a great solvent. I'll use it to clean, but I'll continue using the M1 Fully Synthetic EP for lubing.
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I use more mobil 1 than anything else. 5 20
I usually have a bit left over after an oil change and it goes in the oil can.
Back in the day I knew an old boy that worked at a ford Garage. Probably for 20 years. He would up end the oil bottles after an oil change and let the tiny bit drain into a bucket. He used that to change his oil when needed. He said it was just every kind of oil that anyone could guess of.
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I use more mobil 1 than anything else. 5 20
I usually have a bit left over after an oil change and it goes in the oil can.
I use Mobil's FSEP 5w-20 too. That's the weight that Acura recommends for my TL-S. I use a large syringe from when I did dialysis from home. Those syringes hold a lot and you don't need more than a cc or two to lube what needs to be lubed.
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What is lube included with Dan Wesson pistols that they seem to be big on.
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You guys are overthinking this. I drive to a match, unload my pistols and set them on the shooting bench, go pull the dipstick out of my truck engine and put a few drops of warm oil on the slide rails and barrel and call it good. The hard part is running from the truck to the bench without losing any oil.
:) :)
Joe
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The hard part is running from the truck to the bench without losing any oil.
:) :)
Joe
Now you're over thinking it Joe. Just park the truck at the bench[emoji2][emoji2][emoji2]
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And why would oil just drained from a prized Corvette or high tech turbocharged Ford engine suddenly not be suitable for simple handgun? It was the perfect lubricant for a very demanding application for months and thousands of miles of continuous service. Should be fine for another hour's cumulative service in a handgun seems to me.
Joe
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This is good stuff!!
Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
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And why would oil just drained from a prized Corvette or high tech turbocharged Ford engine suddenly not be suitable for simple handgun? It was the perfect lubricant for a very demanding application for months and thousands of miles of continuous service. Should be fine for another hour's cumulative service in a handgun seems to me.
Joe
Joe, you are correct. The lubrication properties of any modern motor oil exceed any conceivable stress a cycling firearm would place on it. In fact, in the early days of the GWOT some military units in Iraq were experiencing shortages of CLP (Break Free) - the supply system just couldn't get it to them fast enough. The weapons technicians at Rock Island Arsenal recommended motor oil as a perfectly good substitute. They had just a few cautions - first, motor oil is just a lube and is a lousy cleaner (they actually recommended transmission fluid as a substitute cleaner because of its detergent properties). Next, motor oil has lower viscosity and lower adhesion properties than most gun lube, so it tends to run off more readily and may not do a good job as a rust preventative.
Evan Marshall often states that right after 9/11 he was hired as a contractor by the DOE to run training programs for their nuclear site security teams. They ran hundreds of thousands of rounds through thousands of M-16s and M-4s using Mobil1 as the only lube. They would just swing by a local auto parts store and pick up a case of oil before heading to the range. He reports that they never had a single lube related weapons failure.
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Funny how this type of thread will just go on and on because each individual thinks their lube or cleaner of choice is superior to the next guys choice.
Plain and simple the cheapest lowest grade engine oil or plain machine oil will provide more than enough protection for any of the small arms the average person has access to.
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I use break free CLP,works great for me and readily available here(southern WV.)no complaints,and I shoot a LOT!
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Funny how this type of thread will just go on and on because each individual thinks their lube or cleaner of choice is superior to the next guys choice.
Plain and simple the cheapest lowest grade engine oil or plain machine oil will provide more than enough protection for any of the small arms the average person has access to.
For your entertainment.........
My choice of lube/cleaner is better than the other guys choice! Force Field Weapon Conditioner Cause Craig Boddington said so.........kind of like Forrest Gump endorsed his flex-o-lite ping pong paddle.
^^^sarcasm^^^😐😏😉🤔😜
Honestly I use whatever I have available.
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I agree with the posts that say it really doesn't matter all that much, especially if you clean your gun regularly.
For me, it's more about my preference for how easily it's applied, smell, toxicity, etc. I was going to post that test from the firing line before I saw another member posted it. I actually started using Rand CLP recently because of those results. Most of my gun cleaning happens in my living room while watching TV. While the smell issue and toxicity doesn't matter that much to me (I actually like the smell of Hoppes and Ballistol lol), it sure does for those around me. I like the fact it's a vegetable based formula, but you don't have to degrease the gun and re-apply every time after using a separate cleaning product. Rand has their own separate bore and bolt cleaner that's formulated to work with the CLP. And it is a fantastic cleaner btw. If your product is designed to repel and displace carbon, it obviously won't be the best at dissolving and cleaning high temperature areas. You really do need a separate cleaner for certain parts. I also like that the company has actually performed lubrication tests (coefficient of friction of .008) and freeze (-22F) and heat tests (flash point of just under 480F). https://randbrands.myshopify.com/pages/faqs
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Slip 2000. I believe that is what I will simply continue to use for all my firearms. No drama like FireClean and it seems to work just fine.
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JMHO: One size fits ALL, to me means it doesn't excel at any single task. I'm not saying it can't do the job, just that it won't be the best choice for each task.
Lubricants and solvents are specialized. Cleaning requires a great solvent. Lubrication requires a great oil or grease, depending on the use.
Joe's dip stick with a high end oil is a great lubricant, depending on whether he changes his oil more often than he cleans his pistols. O0 ;)
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Joe's dip stick with a high end oil is a great lubricant, depending on whether he changes his oil more often than he cleans his pistols. O0 ;)
Ya'll change oil in your vehicles? This is madness!
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I've used FP10, motor oil, Rem oil, Slide Glide, and now use Frog Lube. I can't say I've ever had a bad experience with any...The Rem oil would constantly run and so I wanted something a little thicker...I use Rem oil when I clean though, but wipe off and apply the other lubes...
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I was an armorer and had access to plenty.
As many have also said. I use BreakFree CLP.
Never a problem in over 30yrs
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Heard all the cons on it, but all my firearms have Froglube used on them. Never had a problems with any of them, except in NY during the winter. Partly my fault as I use a lot on my guns, and it caked up in the frigid temps carrying outside. But would not prevent firing of pistol and would melt and run wild at the range after use.
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Heard all the cons on it, but all my firearms have Froglube used on them. Never had a problems with any of them, except in NY during the winter. Partly my fault as I use a lot on my guns, and it caked up in the frigid temps carrying outside. But would not prevent firing of pistol and would melt and run wild at the range after use.
As you have experienced for yourself...Frog Lube can become waxy in cold weather and gummy if used with other products that are petroleum based. You admittedly over applied the product and that is easily fixed. The beauty of frog lube is, unless your are storing your weapon, a wipe on wipe off application is sufficient for CLP after the initial application. You will hear repeatedly that the CZ prefers to run wet. This is where FL shines. The product buries itself in the pores of the metal, pushing out everything in its way. The FL waits in the cold firearm to be activated by operation of the gun. As the gun heats with use the FL weeps creating a "wet" running pistol.
I still have not found a reason to not use this product.
It's works every bit as advertised, is non-toxic, You can eat the stuff its so safe.
It is a complete CLP product and only bore cleaning for lead and copper fouling will require a more specialized product.
I am not employed by Frog Lube but I sure support their product like I am...It's not common for me to be this outspoken about a product. Kind of strange when I go back and read everything I have written about the FL product. I guess frog lube is very similar to CZ in this regard.
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You can always just use the oil slick in your hair too!
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Ya'll change oil in your vehicles? This is madness!
Only since about 1963.
I also use the "empty" Mobil 1 jugs for lubing my firearms. O0
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I am about to order some Gunzilla as a CLP for a SP-01. Is the general consensus that this is good stuff if I am looking for a non toxic CLP?
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Heard all the cons on it, but all my firearms have Froglube used on them. Never had a problems with any of them, except in NY during the winter. Partly my fault as I use a lot on my guns, and it caked up in the frigid temps carrying outside. But would not prevent firing of pistol and would melt and run wild at the range after use.
As you have experienced for yourself...Frog Lube can become waxy in cold weather and gummy if used with other products that are petroleum based. You admittedly over applied the product and that is easily fixed. The beauty of frog lube is, unless your are storing your weapon, a wipe on wipe off application is sufficient for CLP after the initial application. You will hear repeatedly that the CZ prefers to run wet. This is where FL shines. The product buries itself in the pores of the metal, pushing out everything in its way. The FL waits in the cold firearm to be activated by operation of the gun. As the gun heats with use the FL weeps creating a "wet" running pistol.
I still have not found a reason to not use this product.
It's works every bit as advertised, is non-toxic, You can eat the stuff its so safe.
It is a complete CLP product and only bore cleaning for lead and copper fouling will require a more specialized product.
I am not employed by Frog Lube but I sure support their product like I am...It's not common for me to be this outspoken about a product. Kind of strange when I go back and read everything I have written about the FL product. I guess frog lube is very similar to CZ in this regard.
What do you use for your bore?
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When you try boretech's eliminator, there is no going back
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Heard all the cons on it, but all my firearms have Froglube used on them. Never had a problems with any of them, except in NY during the winter. Partly my fault as I use a lot on my guns, and it caked up in the frigid temps carrying outside. But would not prevent firing of pistol and would melt and run wild at the range after use.
As you have experienced for yourself...Frog Lube can become waxy in cold weather and gummy if used with other products that are petroleum based. You admittedly over applied the product and that is easily fixed. The beauty of frog lube is, unless your are storing your weapon, a wipe on wipe off application is sufficient for CLP after the initial application. You will hear repeatedly that the CZ prefers to run wet. This is where FL shines. The product buries itself in the pores of the metal, pushing out everything in its way. The FL waits in the cold firearm to be activated by operation of the gun. As the gun heats with use the FL weeps creating a "wet" running pistol.
I still have not found a reason to not use this product.
It's works every bit as advertised, is non-toxic, You can eat the stuff its so safe.
It is a complete CLP product and only bore cleaning for lead and copper fouling will require a more specialized product.
I am not employed by Frog Lube but I sure support their product like I am...It's not common for me to be this outspoken about a product. Kind of strange when I go back and read everything I have written about the FL product. I guess frog lube is very similar to CZ in this regard.
What do you use for your bore?
For bore cleaning I use Butch's Bore Shine on all my firearms.
And, bore brushes to work in the solvent and scrub away fouling.
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For bore cleaning I use Hoppe's No. 9 Bore cleaner.
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FWIW, Just a simple method for bore cleaning "pistol bbls.":
The small " Sunny-D" plastic bottles will just hold a full size CZ75 bbl.
Pour in a Hoppes or other bbl cleaner and insert the bbl. Put the bottle cap back on and wait a time for soaking.
Pull the bbl out and do your cleaning method. It will clean very easily. Pour the cleaner back into the original bottle ready for the next time, and next, and....... .
The juice bottle isn't harmed by any cleaners I've tried.
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New champion in town:
http://www.czforum.com/forum/index.php?topic=5566.msg23440#msg23440
08/13/2018 Update (CUDALUBE and Lucas Gun Oil)
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I found this interesting: http://bit.ly/GunCleanerEval
For cleaning and lubrication, I have switched to using Breakthrough products for the most part. I really like their grease, particularly... I do still use Hornady OneShot as a protectant.
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I use Frog Lube on the barrel and any non moving parts. For moving parts I use Clenzoil or Break-Free CLP.
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I have tried a lot over the years 25-30. A few have stuck Mpro-7 I still have laying around I use at the range for other people?s messes. I still use slip 2000 oils.
Lately I got a DW 10mm and was told to use FP-10 stuff so I did. Seems ok, I have no complaints which that lead me to buy the pack of weapons shield. So far I have been impressed with the oil and cleaner although I still use hoppes 7 inside the barrel to clean.
I also like the way weapons shield smells.
I do use TW-25 as my go to greasefor those areas that call for that however I am going to try the weapons shield grease and see how that goes.
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Wow. Old thread. I don't know how I missed it when it was last active a couple years ago. I was "here."
Anyway, I've used Mobil 1 for several years. Like 1SOW, I just let the empty Mobil 1 jugs sit a couple/three days to collect the left over wall drippings in the bottom and then pour into a 1 qt. bottle sitting on the shelf. It's probably 1/4 full of "gun oil" in spite of me supplying oil to two sons and a nephew who do not shoot/clean/lube their guns as often as I do.
Prior to that (and even now a little is used) I used 3n1 oil since 1969, when I got my first shotgun. I have no idea how many years before that my dad and his dad used 3n1 oil for gun lube and rust protection.
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I was an armorer and had access to plenty.
As many have also said. I use BreakFree CLP.
Never a problem in over 30yrs
https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=99122.msg775188#msg775188 Good Stuff.
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Bacon Grease. ;)
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Bacon Grease. ;)
I bet that smells great.
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Bacon Grease. ;)
I bet that smells great.
It's my unfair advantage at a match. I start shooting and the grease heats up and the aroma starts wafting past the other competitors, making them hungry. Then they go and get a double bacon cheeseburger before they shoot and it slows them down. :D
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Never used it. Everyone has their opinion as to what is "best". The best gun lube is the one that you use as a regular part of a good gun cleaning routine. I've used CLP for years and seen no appreciable wear in any of my guns, revolvers and semi-autos alike and they are used and cleaned very often. over 30k rnds through my 75 BD and it's as tight as can be.
This. I usually buy what is on sale and use liberally. My own self rule is if I am going to use and practice at the range then I can clean it thoroughly before I return it to the arms room. I even don't want to go to range and shoot with anyone that don't take care of their weapons.
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Maybe after I retire, I'll be more careful with cleaning my pistols. I'm pretty good about the rifles, but it is because they will sit for months without being touched. I don't run the pistols dry and carry some light oil with me to the range that I use liberally on the Kadet slide rails and use a light grease on all of the centerfire guns.
I clean and oil the Kadet more often in the cooler months because it is very sensitive to any friction and won't cycle reliably in a bullseye match if it isn't clean and oiled with a very light oil in cool temps. On the centerfire guns, I'll add a little oil to the light grease on the rails and barrel if ambient temp is lower than 40F.
For a match gun, one must find a good combination of viscosity for a given ammo and weather temperature. If the gun cycles and isn't dry, I am happy.
Joe
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It alternates between red Brunox and the CZ brand stuff (because I've gotten a few free cans). I've used sewing machine oil for my G26 on occassion.
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I like to use clp on mine
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Aha ! Not one endorsement for KY lubricants ! Guess we're not that heavily into gun porn here. LOL
I recently depleted my bottle of TriFlow, and tried some Weaponshield. The weapons here seem to like it so far.
I'm convinced though that a clean gun is a happy gun, and even butter would work well with my shooting and maintenance habits !
I just had to comment cause I think one of my first posts on this forum pertained to lubrication.
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Aha ! Not one endorsement for KY lubricants ! Guess we're not that heavily into gun porn here. LOL
I recently depleted my bottle of TriFlow, and tried some Weaponshield. The weapons here seem to like it so far.
I'm convinced though that a clean gun is a happy gun, and even butter would work well with my shooting and maintenance habits !
I just had to comment cause I think one of my first posts on this forum pertained to lubrication.
OTIS products come from NY, don't know where Breakfree CLP is made, but as far as I know none of it is made in Kentucky ;D
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Good ol' Hoppes is all it takes.
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Good ol' Hoppes is all it takes.
Never had an issue with the original non-synthetic Hoppe's gun oil. A tiny amount works well on the small frame parts like the trigger and sear areas because of it's capillary action and it never gummed-up in long term storage. And I like the Weapon Shield (as a lube) on the slide, barrel and lugs. The Weapon Shield is very slippery. I never got into the grease yet.
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Ballistol
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I use this is perfect and gives greater fluidity in all firing phases
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2ahti07.jpg)
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There are those that swear by certain brand lubricants/grease/oils and those like me that use what ever is handy and reasonably priced. I clean and lube liberally my AR's on a regular basis and have never had any sort of failure, glitch or unusual wear in all my years of shooting. Recently I have used
Mobil 1 since I have it on the shelf for my antique automobiles in the barn.
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Since I don't use ammo that is dirty or that leaves excess carbon, the cleaner/lube I use is excellent. It's called "Formula three" gun lube/conditioner/cleaner.
I use this every time I shoot, which is anywhere from 100 to 200 rounds/revolver.
M Ruger GP100 and my Rossi 461, both 357 mags do guite well using this. Also, does my wife's LCR 357.
The reason that I use this is because I can't stand the fumes from the heavy duty cleaners.
It's like anything out there. If you treat your weapons like garbage, your chances of something going wrong is exponential.
Remember what your Mom told you? Always wear clean undeware on. YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN SomehiIng WILL HAPPEN. Same goes for your guns.
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...It's like anything out there. If you treat your weapons like garbage, your chances of something going wrong is exponential.
Remember what your Mom told you? Always wear clean undeware on. YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN SomehiIng WILL HAPPEN. Same goes for your guns.
my guns don't wear underwear, they go commando O0
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Since I don't use ammo that is dirty or that leaves excess carbon, the cleaner/lube I use is excellent. It's called "Formula three" gun lube/conditioner/cleaner.
Yeah I'm throwing the BS flag on this one. There is ZERO ammo that doesn't leave something behind unless you are shooting a rubber band gun. Copper lead or what ever bullet coating will always be present and no powder is that crud free.
Just what is this superclean non-fouling ammo you speak of????
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After trial and error I've found different products are best for different tasks:
Ballistol for a general CLP.
I also have the Ballistol concentrate that I can mix with warm water (9 parts water 1 part Ballistol) to make a "moose milk" emulsion - useful when using water to neutralize corrosive primer etc. without worrying too much about removing every bit of water.
Norvey Brand turbine oil for general lubrication and for pistols.
I use small amounts of Super Lube grease for my 75 and SP-01 slide rails.
Lucas high temp oil (thick and bluish color) for my AR BCGs.
Mobilgrease 28 for my AK and VZ 58.