The Original CZ Forum
CZ PISTOL CLUBS => CZ75, 75b, 75 SAO inc the Transitional => Topic started by: SPO1SHADOW on February 01, 2016, 06:39:46 PM
-
I just picked up a 75B but it is a strange transitional. It will only take pre-B mags, says "Czech Made" on the frame and for all practical purposes looks to be brand new on the inside without even a FP dent in the hammer. I won't do a long refinish/restoration on this gun here but I do have it soaking to get the Polycoat off. What would you guys like to see? What type finish, sights, grips, trigger ect.....
Of course it had to be dropped on the muzzle, I think that is a pre-requisite in Israel. I will be repairing that but I would be interested in what you think.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz75b2.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz75b2.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz75b3.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz75b3.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz75b4.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz75b4.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz75b5.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz75b5.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz75b1.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz75b1.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/czb75b.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/czb75b.jpg.html)
-
That poor pistol. It needs a good deal of TLC.
-
Outside looks like a battlefield pickup. Inside looks like a safe queen. I'm guessing it rode around in a tool box or glove box for years but was not fired much.
-
It was issued to the Israeli Military in 1993. It was turned in from there last year so I imagine if it could talk it could tell some tales.
-
Very cool!! Lots of carry explains the finish. I'm not sure what finish would suit that history. I have been liking some of the more metal finishes lately. Like cobalt and titanium but mixed a little darker. Good luck.
-
Nice find! How do you like the feel of that grip style?
I really like the rust blue, but since you did that already, maybe do a brown finish on the gun like the old muzzle loaders. What did they use on the finish: bacon grease or some wild thing?
Maybe a quality Parkerization? Warm the metal and use the old green grease to give the gun a WWII flavor?
-
The grips look like the ones on a hi power. How about fde with black safety and slide stop.
-
Bright glossy blue slide and controls. Nickel frame. [emoji48][emoji48][emoji48]
Or.......
Bone charcoal case coloring[emoji48][emoji48][emoji48]
Boy, I'd love my SP01 to have that one. [emoji41]
What can I say, I love old school[emoji6]
-
Bright glossy blue slide and controls. Nickel frame. [emoji48][emoji48][emoji48]
Or.......
Bone charcoal case coloring[emoji48][emoji48][emoji48]
Boy, I'd love my SP01 to have that one. [emoji41]
What can I say, I love old school[emoji6]
Don't forget mother of pearl grips, if you going to have a pimp gun make sure you go all in. Be the pimp!
-
An odd "transitional" indeed as it appears to have the firing pin block, plus the frame with the B trigger guard but accepting only pre-B mags. Have seen another Israeli surplus marked "Ceska Zabrojovka" (Zbrojovka is spelled incorrectly). Something desert-like for the finish such as Goldcomet suggested? Replace the muzzle-dropped barrel with a threaded one if available?
-
I don't think I have ever seen one with a browned frame and a blue slide. With blued controls that might be a little different and not that hard to do. I think I am going SAO with this gun, browned frame and rust blued slide. I don't currently have an SAO so that would fit in nicely. With this finish it will be pretty much weather proof upper and lower.
-
I noticed that the writing on this gun was really shallow on the frame. Once I started stripping it I found out why, this gun had 3 distinct coats of Polycoat on the frame. The slide only had one but the frame peeled 3 separate coats off before I reached bare metal. Strange indeed.
-
i read somewhere where the guns were marked czech made for a little while during the break-up of the czech republic and slovakia. I guess they weren't sure on what the eventual name of their country was going to be.
-
Nice find! How do you like the feel of that grip style?
I really like the rust blue, but since you did that already, maybe do a brown finish on the gun like the old muzzle loaders. What did they use on the finish: bacon grease or some wild thing?
Maybe a quality Parkerization? Warm the metal and use the old green grease to give the gun a WWII flavor?
The grips feel sort of like holding a 2X4. They, or what was left of them, went right in the trash can.
-
Nice find! How do you like the feel of that grip style?
I really like the rust blue, but since you did that already, maybe do a brown finish on the gun like the old muzzle loaders. What did they use on the finish: bacon grease or some wild thing?
Maybe a quality Parkerization? Warm the metal and use the old green grease to give the gun a WWII flavor?
The grips feel sort of like holding a 2X4. They, or what was left of them, went right in the trash can.
Thanks. I always wondered about those Hi-Power inspired grips. I just ordered some plain walnut checkered factory 75b TS grips for my new blued gun. I wanted something different from the cocobolo ones everyone seems to have. The TS grips were on sale to boot!
-
Nice find! How do you like the feel of that grip style?
I really like the rust blue, but since you did that already, maybe do a brown finish on the gun like the old muzzle loaders. What did they use on the finish: bacon grease or some wild thing?
I remember my father-in-law telling me he browned the barrels of muzzle loaders by whittling out a good tight hickory plug for both ends of the barrel and tapping them in good and tight. Then he'd bury the barrel in cow bleep. I do not remember how long he said to leave it in the cow bleep. Once the time limit was up, he'd dig it out, wipe it off, remove the hickory wood plugs and wipe the barrel down with oil before assembling the rest of the muzzle loader.
I just figured I'd never try browning a barrel. Not a fan of muzzle loaders or the traditional look.
I hadn't thought about that for years, but you brought it up.
-
Thankfully they have come a long way in that finish! You apply the acid to the metal and it turns red/brown in 2 to 4 hours depending on the humidity. Card it off and keep applying it and carding until you reach a deep, dark, even color. If you boil it after it reaches a red/brown finish it turns blue. Either way it provides a great looking rust proof finish that last forever. If for some reason the browned frame turns out to look awful I can always do it in some other finish but since I have never seen a 2 tone blue and brown I think it will at least look different.
-
What do you soak the pistol in to get the coating off, I have found a CZ 75 in a local shop but the coating has turned me off.
-
Klean Strip Aircraft Paint & Epoxy Stripper is the best, then soaking in Acetone overnight, more stripper the next day. It is some tough stuff to get off. Final is hitting the frame and slide with a stainless brush on a grinder to get the corners and stubborn Polycoat spots. I have tried all kinds of paint stripper but Klean Strip brand will eventually take it off, it laughs at the other brands.
-
Don't know about the brand (Kleen Strip) for sure but I remember using some spray on air craft paint stripper on some aluminum rims a few years ago.
I sprayed it on, let it sit, the paint raised up and bubbled real nice. I grabbed the water hose/nozzle to spray off the loose stuff and it was coming off real nice. Then I thought a bug bit me on the leg so I smacked at my leg. Then another bug bite and another bite and then my legs were stinging all over and it hit me that the water was splashing that stripper off the rims and it was eating my legs up, in spite of the water.
I turned the water from the rim to my legs and started rubbing the stripper off with one hand while spraying with the other till I got all the stinging/burning stopped. Then I put on long pants and finished cleaning up the rim with a scraper before letting it dry for the second coat of spray stripper.
Wear monogoggles (if it burned my leg it would eat up your eyes), good rubber gloves (you know most strippers just eat up the flimsy little latex gloves you wear for painting/staining or doing oil changes) and what ever other clothes you need to keep it off your arms/legs.
-
Of course it had to be dropped on the muzzle, I think that is a pre-requisite in Israel. I will be repairing that but I would be interested in what you think.
And on police qualification firing lines right here in America ;D
-
The first time I went to qualify I had a 62 year old Correctional Officer on my right and a 63 year old County Deputy on my left. When the RO blew the whistle my sidewalk erupted in white dust and my target caught 8 rounds before I fired a shot. They were both shooting long barreled revolvers in .38 Special. Scared the crap out of me and the RO!
-
If I would have had any idea how good "brown" would look I would have done the whole gun in brown. I have already rust blued the slide and it is hanging up waiting on it's 3rd boil and card. Rust bluing is a slow go right now. The frame turned out looking very nice in brown. Whodathunkit?
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/CZbrown1.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/CZbrown1.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/CZbrown2.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/CZbrown2.jpg.html)
-
Ya know, that looks pretty nice. Kind of almost a chocolate brown.
I never would of thought brown would look good, but I'm impressed. Can't wait to see it with the blues slide.
In your "Slow rust blueing" thread you did a great job of explaining the process. What do you do different in getting the Brown?
-
The only difference you don't boil it to turn it blue.
-
Ok. So it's the carding that stops the rusting process?
Sorry, maybe it was mentioned before[emoji17]
-
Very nice pics!
-
I have been at this most of the day but I was determined to finish this weekend so here it is Brown & Blue. I like it! Good night, assembly tomorrow.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/CZbrown3.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/CZbrown3.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/CZbrown4.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/CZbrown4.jpg.html)
-
Ok. So it's the carding that stops the rusting process?
Sorry, maybe it was mentioned before[emoji17]
To stop the browning/bluing you have to either soak it in baking soda and water or oil it with a non rust removing oil like motor oil or boiled linseed oil after the last carding. I have used carnauba wax which works ok too.
-
Thanks for the info SP01SHADOW.
-
Never heard about baking soda & water. All I did was use the linseed oil, drip dry and wipe off. Rust blue is a tough finish and looks really old school.
-
Done all but shooting. If the weather holds that will happen today.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/CZbrown5.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/CZbrown5.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/CZbrown6.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/CZbrown6.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/CZbrown7.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/CZbrown7.jpg.html)
-
Another fine looking result!
The brown is very subtle in these photos. Will you try to take some photos in sunlight, please?
-
I hope these will do. I also have fitted new Shadow controls for the old beat up smaller units.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/CZbrown8.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/CZbrown8.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/better%20light.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/better%20light.jpg.html)
-
The contrast show much better. Thanks! Funny to think a little finishing oil or wax is all that kept the frame from darkening to blue.
-
The not boiling in water is what kept it from turning blue, the oil or wax halts the process which if allowed to keep going would pit the metal.
-
That looks really nice. I would have voted for "Desert Tan" Cerekote - as I think a CZ would look really nice that way - but there's never anything wrong with good ol' blue and this pistol wears it well.
-
Love that subtle brown finish and contrast with the blued slide. Range report soon on that SAO trigger? Not to jump ahead but now that an SAO has been done, can a DAO be done with available parts? [emoji848]
-
That brown is a proper finish for the 75. CZ should offer it as an option. From abused milsurp to centerfold. Good work!
-
I wish I had your talent. That has to be so rewarding to take a tired , beat up gun and make it like new again. I think I speak for everyone saying how much we enjoy reading the steps you go through to restore these guns.
-
I very much appreciate your comments and kind words.
-
SP01SHADOW, how do the guide rod assemblies look in the surplus guns you have been restoring? Are the guide rods in good condition? What material are the rods made of in those examples? Thanks
-
So far they have all been the short steel rod and they have all looked in very good condition. Even the most worn out gun has a short steel rod in it which I replaced with a full length version but the OEM steel rod looked great.