The Original CZ Forum
GENERAL => CZ Gunsmithing => Topic started by: SPO1SHADOW on July 16, 2016, 09:41:20 AM
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I do at least one of these a month if I get the time. My Son who works at Cherry Point was a 1911 addict until he got to shoot some of my CZ's during the past Holiday. He lives over 6 hours away and is deployed quite a bit so we don't get to see each other for years at a time. To make a long story short he put in his order for a tu-tone CZ 75 and I was more than happy to do it for him. I went to Gunbroker and tried to find an unmolested surplus gun since most of it will be tossed in the green box anyway. I found a very good, unmolested and for all practical purposes one that looks to be unfired. It has a lot of handling chips and marks in the finish so it is a perfect candidate for a gun build. This was a spare surplus CZ 75B from Israel so the price was well under $400.00 with shipping included. The first thing I did was to completely strip all of the components out of the frame and slide. CZ Custom's bench block really comes in handy for this and made life much easier for driving out and retaining the various pins and springs.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip.jpg.html)
Once you get everything disassembled you will need a large plastic bowl that can accept the slide and frame with some room for the stripper to flow around the parts. Here everything is gone and ready to go into the bowl.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip1.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip1.jpg.html)
Place your slide and frame into the bowl.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip2.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip2.jpg.html)
Then very carefully fill the bowl with the stripper until it covers all parts. You will want to wear rubber gloves and eye protection when you do this. You DO NOT want to splash this stuff on skin or any painted surface. It will immediately blister your skin or blind you. After filling the bowl put the top on it and put it somewhere safe so if the bowl were to leak it doesn't leak out on anything important. I put it outside on an old shooting table. I do not want this stuff sitting in my house period. Now that the slide and frame are covered we wait. In about 3 days all of the Polycoat will be totally gone and all that is left is clean metal. And by-the-way, the stripper in the bowl is good for about 4 guns so this is a pretty efficient way to strip off the Polycoat for very little money.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip3.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip3.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip4.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip4.jpg.html)
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Looking forward to your build.
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This looks like it will be fun.
looking forward to seeing your progress.
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I was at Camp Lejeune for several years, flew out of Cherry Point several times and retired in 2010. Tell your son I Thank him for his service. I will watch the build to see how it turns out. The slow rust blue build you did was awesome. Are you adding the FLGR to this one?
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Yeah, doing it all. FLGR, modified beaver tail, action, sights, trigger, safeties, slide stop, grips, springs, wide sear, narrowed Shadow hammer, 10x bushing and he wants the high luster Colt blue slide against the Browned frame. This will take a while but I will enjoy every minute.
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Awesome, make sure it has a cup holder for your son's lifer juice. 😄
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So this gun went in the stripper yesterday at 2PM. I just went outside and checked on it and all of the outside Polycoat is gone but the toughest part of the strip is still working, the inside. I don't know why the Polycoat is so much tougher to remove on the inside of the frame but it takes several days to get it to come loose as you can see inside the magazine well, it is gelling but has not came off yet. Back in the bowl she goes to spend another day cooking.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip7.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip7.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip5.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip5.jpg.html)
This used to be the Polycoat on the outside, by the time I am through it will be dissolved also.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip6.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip6.jpg.html)
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Frame is cast I think, not as well polished inside as it is outside is I'd guess. Show us how you do the trigger guard under cut and reshaping the beavertail on this one.
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The inside of the frame is rougher & the plycoat has more to bit into there than on the outside of the frame. You may have to get in there with a brass brush & stripper to get it all off.
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Interesting stuff. Gooey pics too!
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This is good stuff!!!
Watching patiently...this may come in handy later. 8)
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SPO1SHADOW does some really awesome work, all I can say is he has attention to detail.
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Following for updates.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Don't get none on ya! O0
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Got up at 5 this morning and went out to check on the stripping. When you notice a lot of bubbles coming up the Polycoat is gone and the stripper is then working/reacting on the phosphate coating under it. Had plenty of bubbles coming up and all of the Polycoat was gone.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip8.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip8.jpg.html)
Now that the gun is stripped the first thing I want to complete is all the metal work. First on the list is getting rid of the irritating sharp edge on the bottom of the beaver tail. I use a round bottom file, sand paper on 3" wide rolls and a Dremel with a sanding drum attachment. The Dremel is first up taking off the sharp edge off the bottom of the beaver tail.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip11.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip11.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip10.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip10.jpg.html)
Once I get the edge knocked off I use the Dremel to start shaping the angles. Once complete the sandpaper strips torn into 1.5" strips is used like shoe shining to blend everything even on both sides. I start with 220 grit and the final will be done with 400. Here the blending is started.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip12.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip12.jpg.html)
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I am finished with the beaver tail. I will refine the lines when I sand the frame for browning. There is not enough material to do an upswept beaver tail but you can make it much more comfortable to shoot by getting rid of the sharp edge that comes on the standard frame from the factory. To me this is just as comfortable as my Shadow with no sharp edge eating into my hand. The blending and shaping to make things perfectly equal on both sides takes some time but is well worth the effort in the end.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip13.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip13.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip14.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip14.jpg.html)
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Nice beginning. This will be good.
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That's good work brother.
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My Son asked for a low profile adjustable target sight. I could not locate an LPA sight made for the standard CZ 75 so instead I am fitting an LPA LPTS made for the Shadow. I had to file down the rib behind the sight dovetail so the LPA sight could bottom out and because the Shadow version does not come with a locking set screw I will fit and mount the rear sight with 620 Loctite so there will be no chance of it coming loose.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip15.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip15.jpg.html)
I decided to take away just a little extra so there was no chance that the blade would contact the slide in the lowest position. This should provide a little extra insurance and sight longevity.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip20.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip20.jpg.html)
Now filing the sight base with a 60 degree safety file until the sight will just slide in half way.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip16.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip16.jpg.html)
The sight is driven into place with a soft aluminum punch with the end covered in 4 coats of painter's tape to keep the aluminum off of the sight. This sight went on very tight with a perfect fit into the dove tail. You will notice that there is ample room now to bottom out the sight.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip21.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip21.jpg.html)
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The full length guide rod hole is done.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip19.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip19.jpg.html)
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Your work is inspiring - thanks for posting!
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Sorry to get off topic from this incredible build, but would you mind sharing the tools you are using for the rebuild? Especially anything you have found to be extremely useful like when you mentioned the holder from CZC.
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This is awesome.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Most of my hand tools are Snap-on or Mac. I truly believe that tools are an investment so I will wait at times until I can afford to buy a good quality, expensive tool rather than buy one from the local discount house. Coming from the service industry in my younger days I have had and seen many busted knuckles and injuries that came from using cheap junk. That being said, what I use most working with guns are files, punches, hammers and I would guess my most used tool would be a Dremel type tool. I have never found a "Dremel" brand moto tool that would hold up under the use I give them, they are expensive and not worth the investment. I have tried every offering they have and found them wanting in the end. My replacement for the Dremel is the Black & Decker RTX, it is cheap enough that I can buy 2 of them for the price of 1 high end Dremel and I am still using the first one I purchased 6 years ago. Next would be a padded vice like a Wilton 5" model with a set of Bessy magnetic soft jaw inserts.
I use punches a lot and I have Snap-on and Mayhew, the hammers I use for gunsmithing are generally brass headed and are purchased from Brownell's. All the files I have are also purchased from Brownell's and most of the crowning reamers and cutters I have also came from them. So giving you that information you would probably do well with a good set of punches, a starter punch from GCW, one of CZ custom's bench blocks, a ten once brass hammer, a good set of pics, some good quality sand paper-80 thru 2000 grit, a good set of hollow ground screw drivers for flats and a quality set of Phillips head drivers, a Dremel type moto tool, a good quality set of polishing, grinding and cutting bits for this tool, a good set of brass punches with at least one large brass and steel drift to remove stubborn sights, a good quality 5 or 6" vice like a Wilton brand, Drill press, a good hand drill and a very good quality set of drill bits and don't forget the Flitz used for polishing and hand fitting slides. Dychem comes in handy when fitting, a high quality digital caliper is used quite a bit also. I am sure there are more but these are the ones I use most. The main thing to remember is you get what you pay for and generally a little less so buy the best you can afford and they will last a lifetime instead of a week.
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Why are you finishing with 400 and not 800 or 1000 for a smoother finish or are you leaving the Finish a little rough so there is something for the paint to grab onto.
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I am browning the frame. The best finish for the process is 400 grit. The slide will be polished to a high luster on a polishing wheel but the frame must not be finished any higher than 400 for the best results.
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Why are you finishing with 400 and not 800 or 1000. Or are you just leaving it a little rough for something for the paint to grab ahold of.
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The last thing I am going to do today is the undercut where the trigger guard meets the grip frame. It is very easy to get carried away on this modification and this is the one I see screwed up more that any other frame modification. It should be done so that there is enough metal removed so your hand can get a higher grip on the gun but should be done subtle enough that is does not stick out like a sore thumb. I removed right at 1/8" of metal at the junction and spent the last 2 hours blending it back in which removed quite a bit more metal. I will address the lines next week when I sand the frame. I used the B&D moto tool with a fine grade sanding drum to do the rough blending, a round file to remove most of the metal and 180 grit paper on a wooden dowel to get rid of all the main sanding and file marks. I will start the metal finishing and the action work next weekend.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip23.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip23.jpg.html)
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Why are you finishing with 400 and not 800 or 1000. Or are you just leaving it a little rough for something for the paint to grab ahold of.
I am browning the frame. The best finish for the process is 400 grit. The slide will be polished to a high luster on a polishing wheel but the frame must not be finished any higher than 400 grit for the best results, it would be the same for rust bluing.
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Dang. I want a custom CZ from you! Haha.
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^^^ the same here. A nice 75 series with undercuts and a upswept beaver tail. Something that would rival my shadow :)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Thanks for the valuable info on tools. I turn wrenches on most of my own stuff and agree about using good quality hand tools. My next purchase was going to be a rotary tool and hearing about your B&D versus Dremel brand. I will check out the brand of punches you recommended.
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My Son asked for a low profile adjustable target sight. I could not locate an LPA sight made for the standard CZ 75 so instead I am fitting an LPA LPTS made for the Shadow. I had to file down the rib behind the sight dovetail so the LPA sight could bottom out and because the Shadow version does not come with a locking set screw I will fit and mount the rear sight with 620 Loctite so there will be no chance of it coming loose.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip15.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip15.jpg.html)
I decided to take away just a little extra so there was no chance that the blade would contact the slide in the lowest position. This should provide a little extra insurance and sight longevity.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip20.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip20.jpg.html)
Now filing the sight base with a 60 degree safety file until the sight will just slide in half way.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip16.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip16.jpg.html)
The sight is driven into place with a soft aluminum punch with the end covered in 4 coats of painter's tape to keep the aluminum off of the sight. This sight went on very tight with a perfect fit into the dove tail. You will notice that there is ample room now to bottom out the sight.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip21.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip21.jpg.html)
This would normally be done on a mill, did you do it all by hand with a file?
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Can you share info on the FLGR mod? What guide rod and hole diameter? Just the .40 cal GR?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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(Quote)
This would normally be done on a mill, did you do it all by hand with a file?
Yes, I did it with the flat safety file pictured and fitted the sight contour to the slide. You don't want the rear of the sight making contact with the slide. It can cause the sight to break.
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Terrific stuff. I have read claims online that the reason the polycoat is thick is to cover up all the pits and imperfections on CZ cast frames. I never really believed them but your pictures certainly show that CZ isn't trying to hide anything. I'm looking forward to following your progress.
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(Quote)
This would normally be done on a mill, did you do it all by hand with a file?
Yes, I did it with the flat safety file pictured and fitted the sight contour to the slide. You don't want the rear of the sight making contact with the slide. It can cause the sight to break.
How long did that take?
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Not long. If you use a good quality file and cut with it in the right direction, never dragging it backwards against the metal to dull it or lay the teeth down, it does not take long to remove a lot of metal. It took maybe 45 minutes. A lot of that time was measuring and pushing the sight in and out.
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Can you share info on the FLGR mod? What guide rod and hole diameter? Just the .40 cal GR?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A 7/32" for a poly guide rod and 1/4" for the stainless. You can get by with a smaller hole in .40 because a lot of the barrel lug is not there compared to a 9mm barrel lug. The hole size is larger than it needs to be because you have to get the big end of the guide rod around the barrel lug on the 9mm. I have a 97B guide rod which is huge by comparison to the 9mm version, I am going to try notching the big end to facilitate getting around the barrel lug and see how that turns out. It's large enough so that you can actually feel the extra weight. I have already turned the face of the big end so it has the little sharp nub in the center like the 9 and 40 FLGR. That will be next weeks project.
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Very cool stuff. Always love your builds. [emoji106][emoji106]
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I very much appreciate the kind words.
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Wow! You almost make me believe I could do this myself! I'm seriously tempted to get one of the ugly gun specials and give it a shot. Just need to figure out how to finish it.
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If I can do it anyone can. I don't know about the ugly guns, they are all old model pre-B's so you are sort of limited on front sights. A lot of the guns I get have been dropped and the front sight is bent. No problem with a transitional or a B model but a bent sight on a BRNO is a $350.00 fix for an FO or any of the good front sights. For around $80.00 more you can get a gun with a changeable front sight and if it's a B just remove the firing pin block and lifter to get the good trigger and reset. Easy to strip too. Go for it!!!
I think rust bluing is probably the easiest and most durable other than the spray type finishes..
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I agree with the rust blue, it is tough.
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If I can do it anyone can. I don't know about the ugly guns, they are all old model pre-B's so you are sort of limited on front sights. A lot of the guns I get have been dropped and the front sight is bent. No problem with a transitional or a B model but a bent sight on a BRNO is a $350.00 fix for an FO or any of the good front sights. For around $80.0 more you can get a gun with a changeable front sight and if it's a B just remove the firing pin block and lifter to get the good trigger and reset. Easy to strip too. Go for it!!!
I think rust bluing is probably the easiest and most durable other than the spray type finishes..
Good point about the ugly gun specials. I'll have to wait for the right deal on something else.
(edit) Actually, I'm seeing plenty of good candidates on gunbroker with replaceable sights, in decent enough condition.
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I started on the frame this morning. Even though the Polycoat is gone the gray Phosphate is still there. This is another step CZ takes to prevent corrosion and it will also resist any kind of acid type metal finish such as bluing and browning. I have finger/hand sanded all the nooks and crannies until bright shiny metal is showing. Then I use a large flat auto body sander to get the flat sides of the frame and restore and make sharp all the lines that were blurred by hand sanding. All of the frame lines should remain crisp and sharp and just sanded until bright metal replaces the gray and keep the stamping and writing on the frame also sharp and crisp. A once over with 400 grit paper and a soak in a big bowl of Acetone and we will be applying the browning solution. The weather here this weekend is perfect for browning and rust bluing. 95 degrees with 80% humidity. Not good for me but for this type of finishing it is perfect to produce red rust and quickly.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip24.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip24.jpg.html)
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The metal work on the frame is done. I warm the frame with a heat gun to about 100 degrees and place it into the Acetone. Warming the frame will allow the degreaser to get deep into the metal just as warming allows the acid finishes to penetrate deeper into the grain of the steel. Just warm the frame you don't want the Acetone to explode in your face so just warming is all you want to do. I have found doing this gives a more consistent finish by rendering any lubricants out of the smallest crack and fissures in the metal. I will let this soak for about an hour, blow it out, heat the frame again and apply the browning/rust blue solution and hang it outside just in time for the heat and humidity to do it's job.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip%2025.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip%2025.jpg.html)
So while the frame is in to soak I will start on the slide. One of the first things I do is file an angle on the sharp part of the slide that contacts the hammer as the gun is fired. I break the sharp edge on the rear, break any sharp edges on the front of this strip of metal and then polish the whole strip. The polishing keeps the slide from pulling the next round forward in the magazine causing a double feed.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/d64b2b62-f9d5-4f0d-a8fd-9b73c1380759.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/d64b2b62-f9d5-4f0d-a8fd-9b73c1380759.jpg.html)
Here the sharp corners are broken on the end of the slide strip that contact the back of the cartridge to feed the next round.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip28.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip28.jpg.html)
This slide has a slight pucker around the firing pin hole so I lightly stoned down the puckered up portion until it was flat with the rest of the breech face, chamfered the firing pin hole and lightly polished the area around the firing pin hole to smooth up the machine marks.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip30.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip30.jpg.html)
Next I polished the firing pin channel inside the slide, polished up the strip of metal on the slide that rubs against the top round in the magazine and the 2 notches in the slide that contact the trigger bar.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip29.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip29.jpg.html)
Next comes fitting the front FO sight and the 10X bushing, then the sanding and polishing of the slide for bluing.
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Interesting stuff. I believe this is the first i have heard of "browning".
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The first coat of solution is on the frame. It was left outside to soak up the heat and humidity but has started working before it completely dried which is a very good sign today is a good day for browning.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip31.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip31.jpg.html)
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Interesting stuff. I believe this is the first i have heard of "browning".
I have never heard of such a thing as well.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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In less than an hour I had a great coat of red rust. It is brutal outside and that is great for this finish! Here is one side carded and the other side after 45 minutes outside. The frame already has a nice deep brown. Re-coated and back outside she goes. This will continue until the color is deep and even.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip32.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip32.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip33.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip33.jpg.html)
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While the frame is outside cooking I have started the metal finish on the slide. The slide will be hot caustic blued. Unlike the frame it will be polished to a mirror finish once all the Phosphated coating is removed by sanding.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip%2026.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip%2026.jpg.html)
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Interesting stuff. I believe this is the first i have heard of "browning".
I have never heard of such a thing as well.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Browning is the oldest form of protective metal finish. The modern way of doing it uses an acid solution and does not require a sweat box filled with humidity as it did back in the 1700's. It is a controlled rusting of the metal the same as rust bluing. It is a tough, long lasting finish that rivals Polycoat or any of the spray on ceramic finishes of today in corrosion resistance. It gives the metal a deep plumb brown low gloss finish. You never have to worry about the frame rusting again and it makes for a very nice looking tu tone finish against the blued slide and controls.
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On the 4 application on the frame after carding all the red rust off. I think one more coat will do it. The weather is making red rust every 2 hours so I will be finished with this part of the build by 10 PM. It looks a lot better than the picture. The plan is bluing the slide tomorrow and doing the final assembly, fitting and polishing the action parts next weekend after the browning/bluing sits and seasons for a week.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip35.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip35.jpg.html)
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Wow, what a transformation.
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Wow, what a transformation.
Yea that looks awesome.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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The slide is polished and ready for the bluing tank. This, to me, is the most difficult part of refinishing a pistol and especially a CZ because the frame rails are on the outside of the slide. Trying to keep the buffing wheel off the slide rails while watching to make sure you don't ruin any of the stamping while watching to make sure you are not destroying the sharp lines all at the same time can be a little nerve racking. It is very easy to make the stamping run down the slide and blur all the writing on a slide or frame, I started this early this morning and forgot to hook up my static wristband, about 15 minutes later the static build up arced and I didn't need any coffee to wake up. OUCH! The metal finish under the Polycoat really needs to be draw filled to get it perfectly smooth but I am on a time line on this one so sanding what I could get out before polishing will have to do. The slide turned out good with all the sharp lines and stamping intact. I will let it soak in the Acetone and scrub it out to make sure all the polishing compound and lubricants are gone and drop it in the tank for about 45 minutes. I can't wait to see how it turns out.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip36.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip36.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip37.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip37.jpg.html)
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The slide turned out perfect. Here are a few shots of the slide and frame together. For some reason a camera does not pick up the difference in the colors as well as the human eye so I took a few hoping you will be able to see the contrast between the two. I am going to let the 2 finishes sit and season for the coming week. I will finish it next weekend and then call my Son to come and get it. The little storage house I keep my bluing tank in was at 129 degrees by the time this was done. I am glad to be back inside in the air today.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip41.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip41.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip40.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip40.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip39.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip39.jpg.html)
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Looks absolutely gorgeous!
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Wow. Looking to adopt any time soon?
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As always brother, you are an artist.
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An inspiring project for sure.
Anxiously awaiting the finish..
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That is looking great - middle photo shows the contrast the best on my screen.
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How do you get the solution on the inside of the frame/slide? Does fume blueing work with the ready made solutions? Or do you need the acids in separate containers inside the box? I'm bluing a Vzor 70 today for practice, water is heating up now. I used Laurel Mountain.
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Unless you can figure out a way to get rid of the Phosphated metal inside or a way to card the rust inside I would not try to brown it on the inside. You may have one rusty mess on your hands. The phosphate will protect the insides from corrosion anyway.
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My vz70 doesn't seem to have the gray phosphate coating you describe on the 75. After I finished sanding, I soaked in vinegar to remove the remaining blue, inside and out. For the first carding I used steel wool outside and a copper brush inside. I applied the second coat of acid at lunch today and just finished boiling. The black "fuzz" is much softer than I expected it to be. I'm working a long day tomorrow, is it ok to wait a day before carding? I'm afraid to let it rust all day while I'm gone. Sorry for the thread hijack, I should probably start a new one or pm you.
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I would be in a situation I could check on it at least every 2 hours. It can pit the metal if left on too long. There is no harm in stopping the process and oiling it then degrease it and continue when you have the time to stay with it which is what I do when I run out of weekend.
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Well, I got through early today at work and was within 200 miles from home so I came home early and decided to start putting things together just for a trial run. I don't have all the parts yet but I had enough substitutions so you get a good idea on how it will look when it is completely finished. I have got to say if you work on these guns you must buy one of CZ Custom's bench blocks. The part that holds the hammer while you drive out/in the hammer pins is worth its weight in gold. It comes in very handy when assembling and disassembling the gun and it will be a purchase you will be glad you made after you figure out all the neat things it does.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip442.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip442.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip43.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip43.jpg.html)
I got it put together enough to do some initial test firing. All the action parts were polished and omitted pictures of this as there have been many posted in the past. The Rosewood grips were handy so I stuck them on. The guy at LOK grips is making a set of Bogies that is in this same shape or the Shadow style to go on this gun. I have ordered a heavy full length guide rod from Dlask in Canada for this project. It is just as robust as the 97B guide rod and much easier to get into the gun. I used a disco from a pre-B gun along with a pre-B thin trigger and omitted the firing pin block and lifter. I installed one of CGW's reduced power trigger return springs, a CZC extended firing pin and replaced all the springs inside the slide and frame with new ones. I installed all new pins, CGW's floating trigger pin, installed a wide sear so no spacer was needed. I used a 13# main spring and one of the heavy duty mag guides. I used a narrowed Shadow hammer installed with the H pins from CGW's and one of their 10X bushings. When the storm that is shaking the house is over I will go out in the steam bath and shoot a few groups and check for functioning. I throated the pristine barrel that came with this gun so it can take 147 grain coated bullets out to 1.150 without choking and removed all the machine marks and polished the feed ramp. I will report back on how she shoots.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip44.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip44.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip45.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip45.jpg.html)
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Impressive. Very well done and thanks for sharing, this thread is very helpful. This thread gave me the kick in the butt that I need to start my transitional 75. Will be off next week so I should finish it then. Going with a simpler finish though, Gun Kote. Something I have used quite a bit and am familiar with. I was not sure how I was going to do the beavertail (only complaint about ergos) but you pointed me in the right direction. That was impressive file work milling the slide for the rear sight. No way would I attempt that.
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Thank you much for the kind words. I found out that the front sight needs to be taller. With the sight bottomed out it is shooting 3" high at 15 yards. So I will need to change it from the .125 tall (.215) sight to a .155 tall sight. Then the storm started again so that's enough for today.
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Would you be so kind and show more photos of the finished beaver tail? That part of the build is very impressive to me. I can't stand the way that beaver tail digs into my hand.
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
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The best way I can describe it and the easy way I found to do it is take your moto tool with a coarse grit drum to begin with and cut the bottom sharp edge of the end of the tail moving the drum length ways only. Don't try to go across the beaver tail as it will make deep gouges that are very hard to reshape later. Work the drum length ways on both sides of the rear of the tail trying to delete the sharp edge and end in an upward motion toward the center rounding the material up and to a point in the center of the tail. Once the sharp edge is gone go to a higher grit drum and again in a length wise only motion shape both side until they match and form a more pointed beaver tail on the rear. Then use ever higher sand paper strips in a shoe shine motion until all the grinding marks are gone and the underside of the beaver tails looks rounded and even.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip46.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip46.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip48.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip48.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip49.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip49.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip50.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip50.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip51.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip51.jpg.html)
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Beautifully done. Excellent job on the write up and with lots of great photos. Thanks for the extra photos.
I am actually trying to sell both cz75b's that I own. The reason is that beaver tail. I literally shot 30 rounds and packed the gun away. The other is unfired. Seeing that this may be something I could pull off, I may change my mind on selling them. Thanks again.
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
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Well, I got through early today at work and was within 200 miles from home so I came home early and decided to start putting things together just for a trial run. I don't have all the parts yet but I had enough substitutions so you get a good idea on how it will look when it is completely finished. I have got to say if you work on these guns you must buy one of CZ Custom's bench blocks. The part that holds the hammer while you drive out/in the hammer pins is worth its weight in gold. It comes in very handy when assembling and disassembling the gun and it will be a purchase you will be glad you made after you figure out all the neat things it does.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip442.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip442.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip43.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip43.jpg.html)
I got it put together enough to do some initial test firing. All the action parts were polished and omitted pictures of this as there have been many posted in the past. The Rosewood grips were handy so I stuck them on. The guy at LOK grips is making a set of Bogies that is in this same shape or the Shadow style to go on this gun. I have ordered a heavy full length guide rod from Dlask in Canada for this project. It is just as robust as the 97B guide rod and much easier to get into the gun. I used a disco from a pre-B gun along with a pre-B thin trigger and omitted the firing pin block and lifter. I installed one of CGW's reduced power trigger return springs, a CZC extended firing pin and replaced all the springs inside the slide and frame with new ones. I installed all new pins, CGW's floating trigger pin, installed a wide sear so no spacer was needed. I used a 13# main spring and one of the heavy duty mag guides. I used a narrowed Shadow hammer installed with the H pins from CGW's and one of their 10X bushings. When the storm that is shaking the house is over I will go out in the steam bath and shoot a few groups and check for functioning. I throated the pristine barrel that came with this gun so it can take 147 grain coated bullets out to 1.150 without choking and removed all the machine marks and polished the feed ramp. I will report back on how she shoots.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip44.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip44.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip45.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip45.jpg.html)
Beautiful!
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Thank you Sir, I appreciate the kind words. I hope he will be happy with it, I have put my best into it. I purchased a carrying case that allows fitting the gun and 3 magazines. I cant wait to give it to him and see the look on that Devil Dog's face.
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Beautifully done. Excellent job on the write up and with lots of great photos. Thanks for the extra photos.
I am actually trying to sell both cz75b's that I own. The reason is that beaver tail. I literally shot 30 rounds and packed the gun away. The other is unfired. Seeing that this may be something I could pull off, I may change my mind on selling them. Thanks again.
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
No! Do not sell those guns because of that one sharp edge! If you go slow, take your time and check your work often you can get rid of that edge and no one will know you ever did anything. I noticed in the pictures that on some of them it looks like an uneven line on the side of the beaver tail. This finish is still curing and it has some spots on the edges that need to be carded. After all it is rust, and it will continue to form around any of the sharp lines for a week or so. That is giving the camera what looks like a broken line but it's just rust that will be removed. I don't want to card it until next weekend so if it looks like a broken line or an uneven place look for the grainy stuff around it. I assure you those lines are straight. When I was shooting it yesterday I was paying attention to how the beaver tail felt against my hand. Feels just like my shadow with no discomfort at all.
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SPO1SHADOW - why can't you be my neighbor? I'd love to leverage your knowledge and skills!! Maybe borrow some tools too :D
Fantastic work sir.
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Thank you Sir, I appreciate the kind words. I hope he will be happy with it, I have put my best into it. I purchased a carrying case that allows fitting the gun and 3 magazines. I cant wait to give it to him and see the look on that Devil Dog's face.
If he's not happy with it, send it to me cause I'd be over joyed!
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Very nice work 8) 8)
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The best way I can describe it and the easy way I found to do it is take your moto tool with a coarse grit drum to begin with and cut the bottom sharp edge of the end of the tail moving the drum length ways only. Don't try to go across the beaver tail as it will make deep gouges that are very hard to reshape later. Work the drum length ways on both sides of the rear of the tail trying to delete the sharp edge and end in an upward motion toward the center rounding the material up and to a point in the center of the tail. Once the sharp edge is gone go to a higher grit drum and again in a length wise only motion shape both side until they match and form a more pointed beaver tail on the rear. Then use ever higher sand paper strips in a shoe shine motion until all the grinding marks are gone and the underside of the beaver tails looks rounded and even.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip46.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip46.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip48.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip48.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip49.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip49.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip50.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip50.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip51.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip51.jpg.html)
If you do this to a 75B that you don't plan on refinishing what would you use to touch up the finish?
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Semi-gloss or flat black epoxy paint should work OK. If you are careful only the underside of the beaver tail should need to be coated. If the place is taped off well so there is no overspray only you will know it's there.
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Sounds like a plan.
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My 75B really needs to be done. I have a large permanent callous where it rubs the inside of my thumb. :-\
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My 75B really needs to be done. I have a large permanent callous where it rubs the inside of my thumb. :-\
That sounds like a good excuse.
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I have everything now but the LOK Shadow style grips. My Son wanted the over sized thumb safety and slide stop installed, the slide stop is a plug and play, the safety is another story. Not only do you have to fit the sear nub just to slide under the sear tang so the safety can be applied but on the older model pre-B and B models you have to fit the shaft of the safety to the sear cage so the safety will slide fully into the gun. The small ridge just in front of the sear nub is about 1/16th longer than the older safeties. You either have to move this small ridge back or deepen the socket on the sear cage to get the safety to go fully into the frame. I chucked up the safety in my drill press and using the edge of a large bastard file clamped into a 2 way vice slowly removed the extra metal off of the safety shaft and moved the small ridge back until it went deep enough into the sear cage. I guess you could call this a poor mans milling machine. It works and that's all that counts. Once you have the depth correct then you must cut off the extra shaft sticking out of the right side of the gun. This safety had the extra D shaft and was meant for ambidextrous safeties. Once you cut the shaft off it needs to be radiused and re-blued so it looks like it came that way. Now you will find that you cannot apply the safety because it runs into the extended slide stop. You have to remove metal and reshape the corner of the safety so it will clear. Installing an oversize safety in one of the older guns is a lot of work but I guess it all amounts to what you want. I dropped the safety and some other small parts into a small iron basket and they are being blued now. I will post the pics of the installed safety as soon as this is done.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip54.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip54.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip56.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip56.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip57.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip57.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip55.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip55.jpg.html)
The FLGR from Dlask came in. It is a little more robust than some of the other offerings I have seen. It fills the hole in the end of the slide nicely and does add a bit of weight up front you can actually feel.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip52.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip52.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip53.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip53.jpg.html)
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Done
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip60.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip60.jpg.html)
I installed the taller front sight and plan on reshooting some groups today while adjusting the sights. All that is left is installing the new grips when they arrive and fitting the gun to the carrying case. Unless I find something amiss while shooting today we can call this one done.
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I just did my beaver tail following your directions and using your pictures as a guide. It came out beautifully and feels wonderful in the hand. Thanks again for taking the time to post your work. It has helped me bigtime.
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That sounds great! That's what we are here for, to learn and help. Glad you got something good out of it. Thank you again for the kind words.
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I got home in time today to get out in the steam bath and shoot some groups and adjust the sights. This thing shoots like a rifle with the 10X bushing installed. The sight adjustment consisted of up 4 clicks off the bottom. If he doesn't want it I will gladly keep it. I will call him this weekend and tell him to "Come and get it" I hope you enjoyed the ride.
15 rounds of MG 147 HP behind 3.6 of ETR-7 @ 25 yards with hands rested on sandbag off shooting table.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip68.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip68.jpg.html)
15 rounds of AA 115 HP 25 yards rested.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip66.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip66.jpg.html)
5 rounds of MG 124 HP behind 4.3 of N320.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip69.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip69.jpg.html)
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Nice results all around! Can you expand more on carding off the rust? This is with a steel wire wheel yes? Not much pressure I assume? Etc.
Many thanks, I really want to try my hand at this and I think I have a perfect candidate for it.
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Here are the only 2 items you will need. A carding brush from Brownell's part #084-091-006 and some degreased 00 fine steel wool. Rub both as hard as you like.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip81.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip81.jpg.html)
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Thanks for posting this thread. I've enjoyed watching your progress so much I think I know what my winter project will be.
Matt
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Outstanding, thanks for the response.
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I am going to rust blue a slide this weekend while the weather is still good ( hot, humid and rainy). I could take a few shots of this if you like.
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I am going to rust blue a slide this weekend while the weather is still good ( hot, humid and rainy). I could take a few shots of this if you like.
Definitely! It would be much appreciated.
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I have already completed my project but below is an excellent tutorial on how to rust blue. The only part that he omits is using a hair drier when they come out of the distilled water. As soon as the part comes out of the water you should be blowing the part with hot air. Don't let water pool or stay on the part. Blow out all the holes and make sure you completely dry the part immediately after it comes out of the boiling water. Otherwise this is a very good video of how it's done.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuP4m6L95K4
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Why is it called "carding"? That confused me initially.
It is interesting, I never knew about it.
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I believe the term "carding" came from the old process of carding wool back in the 1600's. It was a process of arranging the fibers and removing any foreign matter before twisting it into string or thread. The wool was brushed to arrange the fibers in one direction without harming the fibers.
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I had to make a few changes. My son decided he would rather have the slide rust blued and he did not like the over sized thumb safety because he was knocking it on when he drew the gun. So I stripped the high luster blue off the slide and rust blued it last weekend and tonight I fitted a brand new small thumb safety. I took some pics outside as I believe the light shows the contrast between the frame and slide much better. All I am waiting on now is the new LOK grips to be made and this will be finished.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip86.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip86.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip85.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip85.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip84.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip84.jpg.html)
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Absolutely beautiful.
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That looks really nice with the wood grips.
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Sir you have inspired me , I don't like the finish on my po7 gen2 think I'm going to try and do the slide the decocker lever and slide stop lever.
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In the pictures the frame appears to be slightly Brown
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The frame is brown.
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Any more pictures with the new grips?
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Just waiting on LOK to let me know the grips are done. It should be in the next few days. He is going to offer these Shadow style grips as a standard item once he gets them started. My small contribution to the hobby we all love.
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What type of prep would you recommend for an alloy framed p-01 (compact d)? I've got the frame completely stripped of parts and oils. I ran it through my ultrasonic to remove all the last bits of grease and such with some of the HD Simple green that I use on all my other weapons parts. It came out squeaky clean, but I still have a damaged polycoat and some nice scratches and gouges to attend to. Is the chemical process for removing the poly on the aluminum frames frowned upon? I don't want to pay a shop for media blast until the frame is ready for final stuff. I am going to break all the edges and clean up some of the curves as well as blend all the damage until it's nearly invisible. What do you think I can do with chemicals before I go to a beadblast pro? Thanks
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The aircraft stripper will work fine on alloy. Any auto parts store.
Although you may not require a total strip. These things can be sanded out and refinished using duracoat and others on a working gun. Pretty tough stuff and the polycoat makes a good basecoat.
Just say'n.
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Shadow style Bogies are now available from LOK grips.
http://lokgrips.com/gun-grips/cz-75/thin/bogies/black-g10/
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Is there a way to get a more brown-ish tint.....I've read up some on the process and some say that sometimes "something" in the water being used will give it a more brown-ish tint versus using distilled water which gives the resulting finish a darker gray or more black-ish tint. Any experience or suggestions.....could the "something" be more minerals??? Just looking for a best guess here.
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The aircraft stripper will work fine on alloy. Any auto parts store.
Although you may not require a total strip. These things can be sanded out and refinished using duracoat and others on a working gun. Pretty tough stuff and the polycoat makes a good basecoat.
Just say'n.
I was thinking that way also. I was going to do the frame anodized, and soak in some light brown dye... I was going to run it through beadblast before that, after my sanding and grinding... Now that I really think about it, I'm just going to Cerekote it instead of anodize because I really don't see why I am going to put myself through that headache with pcb board paint and blocking off all the rails and pin holes and then being worried about losing too much material. I've been anodizing for a while, but nothing as intricate as a frame. Mostly rails and small parts. Titanium is super easy, but the steps really multiply when aluminum comes into play. Cerekote it is. Now I need to find the color match I'm looking for. Ok so no stripping required, not gonna need a bead blast either. You talked me out of it. Lol
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Is there a way to get a more brown-ish tint.....I've read up some on the process and some say that sometimes "something" in the water being used will give it a more brown-ish tint versus using distilled water which gives the resulting finish a darker gray or more black-ish tint. Any experience or suggestions.....could the "something" be more minerals??? Just looking for a best guess here.
If you want it slick and brown don't boil it at all. Just rust and card and there you are. The odd looking colors in rust bluing, if you do boil it, come from minerals and contaminates in the water.
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When rust bluing and boiling how can you get a consistent color? Distilled water or something else?
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Yes, distilled water in an absolutely clean stainless or aluminum pot.
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After looking at the cerakote website holy mackerel. Every color in the rainbow.
Has anyone done cerakote clear coat over a highly polished slide?
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I received the first 2 sets made of the Shadow Style LOK Bogies today. These are by far the most aggressive grips you could put on a gun. It makes the "Lemon Graters" feel tame. Now I am finished with my Son's gun.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip77.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip77.jpg.html)
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip79.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip79.jpg.html)
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Stunning all around!
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Thanks!
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That turned out very nice.
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Say, that looks pretty sharp with the lighter tinge of orange than the other grips. It matches the 'browning' on the frame really nice. Do you need to take some fine grit to the grips or you think they won't cut the skin much?
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Mg124 and N320, one of my favorites
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Very cool!!
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Say, that looks pretty sharp with the lighter tinge of orange than the other grips. It matches the 'browning' on the frame really nice. Do you need to take some fine grit to the grips or you think they won't cut the skin much?
They don't bother me at all. I will guarantee you that the gun will not shift in your hand in recoil. If it does it will take meat with it.
They offer better adhesion than any grip I have tried and allow total control of the gun. I really am sold on the Bogies, they solve a lot of the problems we have trying to hang on to the gun in rapid fire situations.
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Shame they don't make a stick-on version to put on a po7 Gen 2
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Shame they don't make a stick-on version to put on a po7 Gen 2
They do! The sandpaper grips just work!
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I have been following this for some time now and every thing looks fairly "easy", except the difference in browning vs Bluing. Is there a specific soloutiin to each, or do you just not boil the frame, and instead just card it with brush and 0000 wool?
Since fall is upon us and I live in NH I sourced a "hot box" and all the tools/chemicals to do the job, except the souloution(s) to blue/brown.
......that reminds me, what do you use for a polishing compound for the slide? Do you think Mothers will do?
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Browning is the same solution just not boiled for 20 minutes. I used American Classic Rust Blue solution available from Brownell's. There is a picture of the solution in the article a few pages back.
Final polish consists of 320 to 400 grit sand paper. No high gloss polishing for rust bluing or browning.
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Ok that was really the only question I had, I figured by the picture you posted of the soloutuion and that you didnt mention boiling in any of the posts, that was the only difference.....aside from the need for 400grit finish for best results
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The video I posted a few pages back is an excellent tutorial on rust bluing.
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I just found out that my Son is driving in from the coast today to pick up his gun. I thought I would add a little extra surprise, a years supply of ammo. Can't wait until he gets here!
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip100.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip100.jpg.html)
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I just found out that my Son is driving in from the coast today to pick up his gun. I thought I would add a little extra surprise, a years supply of ammo. Can't wait until he gets here!
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq75/Bowenbuilt/cz%20strip100.jpg) (http://s435.photobucket.com/user/Bowenbuilt/media/cz%20strip100.jpg.html)
Good for you.
Whose red bullets are those?
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Those are ACME 124 grain round nose loaded with 4.0 grains of N320 @ 1.140 OAL. This load made a hole at 25 yards in his gun while testing so I decided to send them home with him. I want him to be able to impress that crew of Jar Heads he hangs out with. Maybe convert a few more to the CZ Clan. I get match grade accuracy out of ACME's bullets so I am a huge fan of their products.
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Mg124 and N320, one of my favorites
It is my old stand by load. Hard to beat for consistency and bleeped accurate in most of my guns. I would be willing to bet, other than "Tightgoop" users, this is one of the most popular Minor loads in history.
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That is an amazing transformation! I am anxious to begin a complete build on my 75 transitional. Great inspiration. Thank you so much for sharing, as well as being a great dad.
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Moderator, why is this not a sticky ????
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Moderator, why is this not a sticky ????
Second vote.
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>:(
Why, why, why, why, can't my dad be this guy?
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+++++ 1000000
On Sticky
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excellent thread......deserves a fresh start at the top for newer folks that don't know it exists :o
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Why can I not see pictures in this? A lot of the replies seem to elude to pictures, but I can't see them. I'm currently trying to get the polycoat off my S2O and I've thrown everything at it with no results. What stripper did he use?
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A lot of the replies seem to elude to pictures, but I can't see them.
I don't see any images on the last 3 pages
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This thread is from 2016-early 2017. I believe it was sometime in 2017 when photo bucket stopped offering free service so the pics associated here probably are not available anymore. Possibly the OP deleted them as well before he left the forum. either way the pics are no longer here.
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Why can I not see pictures in this? A lot of the replies seem to elude to pictures, but I can't see them. I'm currently trying to get the polycoat off my S2O and I've thrown everything at it with no results. What stripper did he use?
He used standard aircraft paint stripper. A year or two after this thread was started, the EPA forced manufacturers to remove certain chemicals from paint strippers which ruined thier effectiveness. The old formulas are only available with special permits and not to the general consumer. The new stuff works very slowly, requiring you to submerge the workpiece for an extended period and won't lift the coating like before.