The Original CZ Forum
GENERAL => Ammunition, questions, and handloading techniques => Topic started by: SlvrDragon50 on May 21, 2017, 10:07:32 PM
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Signature-Development-72-in-Fold-Out-Wood-Workbench-WKBNCH72X22/203083493
Has anyone seen this in person and thinks it will suffice for reloading? I can't decide between buying a wood top and metal legs or just getting this workbench. I don't have a circular saw so cutting is out of the question. The alternative is buying the following combo:
https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/lumber-boards/boards/mastercraft-reg-5-4-x-30-edge-glued-board/p-1444438763950.htm
https://www.amazon.com/ABL30-Adjustable-Height-Industrial-Capacity/dp/B001VXZYAG/ref=pd_rhf_ee_p_img_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TGZ54ZDGCHBBNF2HFRHQ
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Home Depot will cut wood to your dimensions. The heavier you can make your bench the better.
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Signature-Development-72-in-Fold-Out-Wood-Workbench-WKBNCH72X22/203083493
Has anyone seen this in person and thinks it will suffice for reloading? I can't decide between buying a wood top and metal legs or just getting this workbench. I don't have a circular saw so cutting is out of the question. The alternative is buying the following combo:
https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/lumber-boards/boards/mastercraft-reg-5-4-x-30-edge-glued-board/p-1444438763950.htm
https://www.amazon.com/ABL30-Adjustable-Height-Industrial-Capacity/dp/B001VXZYAG/ref=pd_rhf_ee_p_img_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TGZ54ZDGCHBBNF2HFRHQ
That's a really big bench, the first one.
Being in an apartment you may want the second option. If you get the legs you can get a sheet of Ply for the top at a local home Depot and they will cut it for you. That way you can make one that isn't so wide and can better fit in your apartment. If you can, put a piece across the back to strengthen it and even screw it into studs, if you're allowed. That will make it really sturdy!
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Home Depot doesn't sell thick tops from what I saw? Isn't plywood going to be weak without 2x4 supporting it? I am also limited by what I can carry in a Honda Accord :P
I guess I just didn't see the lumber cutting area of Menards, I might have to go back and take a look. I would definitely prefer a solid wood top over MDF.
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Home Depot doesn't sell thick tops from what I saw? Isn't plywood going to be weak without 2x4 supporting it? I am also limited by what I can carry in a Honda Accord [emoji14]
I guess I just didn't see the lumber cutting area of Menards, I might have to go back and take a look. I would definitely prefer a solid wood top over MDF.
How thick do you want? My Accord is my "big" car, so I know your trouble. I've had to do the same thing. If any of the local stores have a place to cut the wood I have a solution to get ya a thick top that's really strong and should fit in your Accord.
You have them cut the sheet right in half (if that's the size you want/will fit). At that point the two halves should fit in your Accord. Get some good wood glue while you're there. If you want a smaller bench, just have them cut it into thirds. This works the same.
At home lay one piece down and apply the wood glue, then lay the other piece on top (and the third if you went smaller). Have heavy things to lay on top across the whole thing so they bind well. Modern glue will outlast the wood. Gorilla glue is what I used when I made a long board press and made custom Long boards. That will make a thick and stupid strong top for your bench. I used Baltic Birch plywood, but that may be overkill for this, just that 3/4" Ply from HD or any place should work.
I seriously would have used those legs and this method had I found those legs when researching and making my own bench for an apartment. Those seem like a good find! Anyways, just an option with those links you gave.
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I mean if thinner works fine I'm fine with it, but I figure an 5/4" edge glued board is pretty solid. Granted it's not going to have a perfect surface like some plywood, but I don't think that should be an issue?
I think I will have more room next year since I have a larger closet and should be able to get rid of this clothes rack.
I can also get this frame:
https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/tool-storage/work-supports-workbenches/xtreme-garage-92-x-32-adjustable-metal-workbench-frame/p-1444428713313.htm
But I was reading that the steel is a little flimsy. I like the cross bar support for the top though.
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That's a muchacho closet if you could fit that full sized bench in there!
I like the first set of legs on Amazon since they don't leave you stuck with a certain width of bench.
So... For strength and durability. When I pressed my long boards using gorilla glue I used two 1/4" pieces of Baltic birch plywood. I weighed about 170 lbs and still ride one of my boards (8 yrs later) that was about 38" long. Longer boards got some flex but not a single one ever broke. One even had a few times where it flexed to the ground when my buddy rode it, but the glue bond held. It felt like we were riding deep powder on our snow boards! I digress....
Baltic birch is stronger than the good Ply at most home improvement stores, but... If you get a 3/4" board, cut it in half and glue it then your at 1.5" thick for your top. That's an inch thicker than my Long boards. Granted it is different types of movements applying forces. Because I over do every single project I might get two boards. Cut them in half and press them with gorilla glue. If you break that 3" top I'd send you money to reimburse you for my bad advice. But... This is all under the guise of using those legs for a half wide bench.
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Hahahha. I suppose I just don't trust Home Depot to make the cuts correctly since the last time I asked them to make cuts none of the pieces were matching! I think I might just need to make another trip to Menards and inspect the 1 1/4" top and see just how knotted it is.
I'm getting an Ultramount with the Hornady LnL so I think bolting it down will help keep the boards together if I decide to layer. I need to get back into the new apartment and figure out exactly how much space I have. I wanna start reloading now, but it's pretty stupid I think for me to set up the reloading press for only a month and move it again.
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Hahahha. I suppose I just don't trust Home Depot to make the cuts correctly since the last time I asked them to make cuts none of the pieces were matching! I think I might just need to make another trip to Menards and inspect the 1 1/4" top and see just how knotted it is.
I'm getting an Ultramount with the Hornady LnL so I think bolting it down will help keep the boards together if I decide to layer. I need to get back into the new apartment and figure out exactly how much space I have. I wanna start reloading now, but it's pretty stupid I think for me to set up the reloading press for only a month and move it again.
For sure! I had a bad experience or two with some dim wits cutting at home Depot. Menards may do cuts for you. That piece from Menards might be perfect, and might need to be cut just to get you a smaller bench for your area.
That ultra mount looks awesome! Setting it all up for a month may be tough, especially with the whole system you have. Mine has moved with me 6 times in the last 4 years and I don't want to move again for 20 years now.
Ultimately just make sure you can get the bench to the right size for your space, especially since you will move in a year or two or three...
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Hahahha. I suppose I just don't trust Home Depot to make the cuts correctly since the last time I asked them to make cuts none of the pieces were matching! I think I might just need to make another trip to Menards and inspect the 1 1/4" top and see just how knotted it is.
I'm getting an Ultramount with the Hornady LnL so I think bolting it down will help keep the boards together if I decide to layer. I need to get back into the new apartment and figure out exactly how much space I have. I wanna start reloading now, but it's pretty stupid I think for me to set up the reloading press for only a month and move it again.
For sure! I had a bad experience or two with some dim wits cutting at home Depot. Menards may do cuts for you. That piece from Menards might be perfect, and might need to be cut just to get you a smaller bench for your area.
That ultra mount looks awesome! Setting it all up for a month may be tough, especially with the whole system you have. Mine has moved with me 6 times in the last 4 years and I don't want to move again for 20 years now.
Ultimately just make sure you can get the bench to the right size for your space, especially since you will move in a year or two or three...
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Does the wood type matter? Pine plywood is awfully cheap at 25 for a 4'x8' panel. Or Fir for 27. Otherwise I can pay 40-50 for a hardwood plywood of Birch, Oak, Maple, etc. Or will 1.5" of anything be basically overkill for reloading.
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The bench I just made has a softer wood for that big thick top. I didn't realize how soft it was and I wish I would have gotten hard wood. It is more, but won't indent when you bolt your press down as much. Nor will it indent over time as much. This may not be much to worry about with your mount though... I'd be curious to hear from other members and if they have used hard and soft woods on work benches...
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Re Pine: The structure used can make it very strong. The surface finish is poor unless paying for a B one side surface.
Re Hardwood ply: The surface will be very uniform at least on one side. It is a little stronger but pricey.
For a small bench you can buy pine and pick pieces with enough smooth surfaces to make the top.
In any plywood, count the number of layers related to cost. More ply layers are much stronger at the same thickness. Each layer alternates the grain making it stronger.
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Signature-Development-72-in-Fold-Out-Wood-Workbench-WKBNCH72X22/203083493
Has anyone seen this in person and thinks it will suffice for reloading? I can't decide between buying a wood top and metal legs or just getting this workbench. I don't have a circular saw so cutting is out of the question. The alternative is buying the following combo:
https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/lumber-boards/boards/mastercraft-reg-5-4-x-30-edge-glued-board/p-1444438763950.htm
https://www.amazon.com/ABL30-Adjustable-Height-Industrial-Capacity/dp/B001VXZYAG/ref=pd_rhf_ee_p_img_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TGZ54ZDGCHBBNF2HFRHQ
I just got the one from home depot last week and set up a Dillon 650 with the string mount, plenty sturdy and collapsible to boot.
Could I have built a better one myself? Not with my woodworking skills LOL.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170522/1ad032fc5d3a2f806d1983984267626b.jpg)
Still working on it, but there it is so far...
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Here's where it gets sticky....
? It really depends upon what reloading press we're talking about. In KPJ's case, the Dillon Strong Mount disperses the load over a wide area, thus reducing the flexing within the work bench top.
So if your press has a small footprint, then you're going to need a thicker top to disperse that load. If you use a Stong Mount, or one of In-Line Fab's Ultra Mounts, then the mounting solution is taking the place of a lot of wood. Inline Fabrication link (https://inlinefabrication.com/collections/ultramounts)
? Work height is very important for comfort. Do you want to stand or sit when you reload ? Once you figure your correct work height, then you have to subtract the height of the press mount to achieve that bench height.
? Remember, the entire bench doesn't have to be "strong", ONLY the part under the press. The rest of your reloading equipment can be held up by a the flimsiest thrift store card table because it's only supporting books, calipers, a box of primers, notebook, and safety glasses. So the area to concentrate ALL your mental powers on is that area directly under the press.
? It is always cheaper and easier to build up your top from multiple layers of wood sheeting. You can save extra money by using MDF or "chip board" as the bottom layers under a top layer of nice hardwood or other finished top surface, which can be very thin. Glue is your friend.
? No matter how you design it, you can double or triple the overall rigidity by doing 3 simple things...
1) Bolt the bench to 2 or 3 studs in the wall behind the press. Anchoring the bench this way cuts out all the swaying (left-right).
2) Place a 2x4 leg under each side of your press (or one giant 4x6 leg under the center). Supporting the press in this way removes all the flexing and bending (up-down) in the press top on the down-stroke of the op lever.
3) Heavy legs prevent bench lifting on the up-stroke (primer insertion). It's much simpler than screwing the legs to the floor.
ANY MOVEMENT IN THE WORKBENCH SURFACE IS YOUR WASTED ENERGY. By "wasted" I mean the energy comes from your physical effort while adding exactly ZERO to increase ammo production. In fact, if you get an arm or back ache, it may mean LESS ammo production. If you can see or feel any movement in your press during reloading (even 0.010") then you are wasting your energy to gain zero results.
;)
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I just got the one from home depot last week and set up a Dillon 650 with the string mount, plenty sturdy and collapsible to boot.
Could I have built a better one myself? Not with my woodworking skills LOL.
But you can vastly improve this bench by 1) bolting it 3 or 4 places to the wall behind the bench, and 2) adding a new 2x4 leg just to the right of the press location.
As it is, the bench top is presently dipping downward with every op lever pull. So one piece of wood and a box of 3" sheet rock screws will work wonders.
;)
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Here's how I did it....
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e7U5ZBioGWf72Ni_UY-WGwmcvvHsXV2hDyuIOSPxe4vTjGbQv3Ak5Oum_SfoH4RWSUZ0OxnO3X8ONtr-r3FsYT61pGezynQOcf-2AYYqb-q9ujYWTeSfu30xEJ0Q4RtiFLbl9ib68d6WAKjRtqER6Zvr0LzEC4EwtenpVnnKurTLTXhT4P0DDOsWKwqwTJsQZThyOe9AwFHyg-d_Ek3Rlnsj1ufkJmB7-usq5xv6tfyt4e7dn1IHy3Ie7CBuwabIbGkpUqvvPmSyZKAu_eLPmyMvz6SnJ4Rn6lliy6bRCCfcXlM0tFfD9B4n29RZBPGCUS9B6alBp33JprUoiey9KpwGAWY0X3DaKmQWHSDaDTeTtxvbmvWgu5HAbOircAtVDfSbsGQMJ4c8F-yIXLJdHN7tdDlUhnSuqjNS5TZqHKeVVN5lnQwrBTIGED2yIAB2w2hc5F85Hdat4oRVPAd4--OymqfAUj-t3TeiU-ESyXpy8FHJMOu0_lI5PmvRHtXGw-Ne_gPaW5GHWnKhnk_wxoLiF-BaRnGJ8zMh2KMi1g6_Jk9HMdWRwkCvpSnkygpu3AjAjtb-b-mkw6PUqPqivAoE3c9FD0dteFrDOVVZqffg2dC9ToHP-PeB9VnWnZVirUTO1WvwBljRf5HfmrcE-SkoOjQ3rRLNdKe7IXERpQ=w640-h480-no)
My bench top is 2 layers of 3/4" MDF capped with a single 1/2" hardwood plywood layer. So the top is effectively 2" thick. Each layer was successively glued and screwed from the underside. Then the edging was done with pine 1x6 to keep you from seeing the layers and help attach the legs.
I like to stand and reload, so the top is 37" high. 2 garage sale stools are used for those times of sitting to read or calculate. Top is 22" deep by 8 ft long.
Legs are 4x6 landscape timbers. Even with the 2" thick top, both presses are located over the legs.
Bench is also attached to every stud in the wall behind the bench (total of 6) using 3" sheet rock screws.
Left-over piece of 1x6 serves as a shelf for the scale, which is convenient since the bench is not deep. Notice all my lighting is done with small $3 thrift store lamps.
Very simple to construct, very low material cost. Bench, stools, lights, shelf cost less than $100. It's all in the planning and shopping.
;)
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It's okay. I enjoy a good arm workout ;D I've been wanting a way to exercise at home in addition to the gym sessions during the week.
kpj, do you have any of the sway/flex that Wobbly describes? That was my biggest worry with the fold away bench. At the moment, I'm considering going with the double layer ply and then probably drilling in a wood leg directly underneath the press.
This is the piece of ply I'm looking at now: https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/specialty-panels/hardwood-panels/3-4-x-4-x-8-uv-prefinished-birch-plywood/p-1444441908132.htm
Already finished so I don't mind paying a bit extra since I'd otherwise would have to pay stain/sealant and have leftover.
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Second page and you still haven't answered basic questions, relevant to your situation...
? What kind of press ?
? Does it have a mount ?
? Standing or sitting ?
? Do you have wife ? kids ?
And why do you feel like you need a hardwood top ? Are you going to also build automatic transmissions on this bench ? You certainly won't be doing any hammering during reloading to warrant such.
???
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It's a Hornady LnL w/ Ultra Mount. Sorry, Scarlett and I were PMing so he knew what I was getting already.
Don't really care about standing or sitting, but getting the ultramount pretty much eliminates sitting though anyways. No wife or kids. The single life is quite nice for this hobby.
I just feel like I need a solid top since this MDF top from IKEA is sagging just from my computer monitors (~40 lbs I'm guessing?). It is 1.5" thick. If you think the 3/4" ply layered up is good enough I don't mind spending less! I'm all for spending less.
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It's okay. I enjoy a good arm workout ;D I've been wanting a way to exercise at home in addition to the gym sessions during the week.
kpj, do you have any of the sway/flex that Wobbly describes? That was my biggest worry with the fold away bench. At the moment, I'm considering going with the double layer ply and then probably drilling in a wood leg directly underneath the press.
This is the piece of ply I'm looking at now: https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/specialty-panels/hardwood-panels/3-4-x-4-x-8-uv-prefinished-birch-plywood/p-1444441908132.htm
Already finished so I don't mind paying a bit extra since I'd otherwise would have to pay stain/sealant and have leftover.
Not that much flex at all, I reinforced it with some 2X4's on the under side. I'm actually pretty impressed from something prebuilt. I don't know if I want to screw it to the wall or not being plaster and all. Still might mount another leg in the middle though...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170523/a1df5bb449938f79e423156f53446c98.jpg)
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Ah okay. I am planning on doing that if I build my own work bench. What are those bolts coming through? Strong mount?
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.......Are you going to also build automatic transmissions on this bench ? .........
Please don't use a wood topped bench for automatic transmissions. Use something with a steel top and a lip/drain to catch all the fluid that doesn't come out until you take it apart.
A cadaver table works real well!! That is what I use! But put a screen over the drain to prevent losing any loose check balls!
Opps - sorry - got distracted.....Now you know what other hobbies I have.... 8)
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Ah okay. I am planning on doing that if I build my own work bench. What are those bolts coming through? Strong mount?
Yeah, strong mounts in both pictures. As for the bolts I just went with 5" bolts and large washers.
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Don't really care about standing or sitting, but getting the Ultramount pretty much eliminates sitting though anyways.
Not really. You can always saw 3" off the legs and get it lower.
I just feel like I need a solid top since this MDF top from IKEA is sagging just from my computer monitors (~40 lbs I'm guessing?). It is 1.5" thick. If you think the 3/4" ply layered up is good enough I don't mind spending less! I'm all for spending less.
You can have rigid without spending tons of money. First lesson in design: shape (NOT materials) make a flat surface rigid. You could spend $5000 on a sheet of 3/4 plywood and it wouldn't be any more rigid than the $12 sheet.
;)
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Formica covered kitchen countertop sections are also available, and with rolled edges and backsplash. Nice slick easy to clean surface.
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Formica covered kitchen countertop sections are also available, and with rolled edges and backsplash. Nice slick easy to clean surface.
THat's a good idea. I was planning on just layering vinyl on the ply, but these countertop sections are pretty cheap! Only 50 some bucks for a 4' section. Are they just secured using screws from underneath?
Although... I don't know why I didn't look at countertops before, but now I see Menards has a $69 butcher block 4' top that's 1.5" thick. I think I'll just grab that!
https://www.menards.com/main/kitchen/countertops-laminate/view-all-countertops-laminate/butcher-block-top-25-wide-x-48-long-x-1-5-thick/p-1444430610144-c-3629.htm?tid=7432643433903643430
The two pieces of ply are costing 40-50 bucks anyways, and I'll have to pay for adhesive and glue. Though now the workbench legs don't fit since they're made for a 30" depth desk argggg >:(
Will driving lag bolts through the butcher block into 4x4 timbers as legs be sturdy enough? I'll probably get some 2x4 to crossbar to minimize sway as well.
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ny number of ways to do it, but I think I would throw together a 2x4 framework stand and set toe countertop on it. Then use something like small L-brackets to attach the two.
Screw and glue works as well, yet may be a bit of overkill.
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Will driving lag bolts through the butcher block into 4x4 timbers as legs be sturdy enough? I'll probably get some 2x4 to crossbar to minimize sway as well.
Not without screws into the wall.
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Dang. I went to Menards today and found a perfect maple bench top for 30 bucks, but it's a 24" depth top. I haven't been able to find a decent 24" frame unfortunately.
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Frame the top in with 1x6 all the way around. Glue and screw the 1x6 flush with the top surface.
You'll end up with a "skirt" protruding below the bottom. You can use the skirt to attach your 4x4 legs from 2 sides, one in each of the 4 corners formed by the skirt.
If you really want to get fancy, in place of the rear 1x6, use a 24" piece of 1/4 or 3/8 plywood. That will give you extra stability in the rear legs and make attaching to the wall much easier and more secure.
When I say attach to the wall of the building, I'm talking about sinking two #8x3" sheet rock screws into each stud inside the wall behind the bench. Maybe 8 total. These will leave the smallest of holes, which you can fill with putty or toothpaste when you move out. It's not going to destroy the wall. You'll make a larger mess hanging pictures !
;)
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Frame the top in with 1x6 all the way around. Glue and screw the 1x6 flush with the top surface.
You'll end up with a "skirt" protruding below the bottom. You can use the skirt to attach your 4x4 legs from 2 sides, one in each of the 4 corners formed by the skirt.
If you really want to get fancy, in place of the rear 1x6, use a 24" piece of 1/4 or 3/8 plywood. That will give you extra stability in the rear legs and make attaching to the wall much easier and more secure.
When I say attach to the wall of the building, I'm talking about sinking two #8x3" sheet rock screws into each stud inside the wall behind the bench. Maybe 8 total. These will leave the smallest of holes, which you can fill with putty or toothpaste when you move out. It's not going to destroy the wall.
;)
That's a great idea. Though now I looked it up, and I see it's actually melamine. I knew that price was too good! I don't think the melamine will handle the screwing of the skirt too well.
I was under the impression I needed larger screws for the wall. If only #8 is needed, I don't mind doing that!
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I whooped up some scale views to help you visualize. Each part is a different color to help you understand. The bench top (yellow) is 24x60". 1x6" skirts are in green and blue....
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nUM3NQwmdE5FN0Yr66hMk_ILE9G8p2fXFs4X1z8AKsyOszCY8_EX0V07PzyQ_DIiJFetcLssJaejQ7zovXl3yn0WPGd3hB36Yo6cyU_mS6APK8zzmwdoPPPx5tM45bXrWzrgjEZ7uKrsDqeMR2BUu2hBccnPhJSVap6wIpOkD-22Pp-RvO108vyU8f40ViyhZsWJpmw0fzSqBRB3TbTu6pVVnigKySqGxpLq70sQxWiWt9Vb-Tk3R1lc0lt4x3Wzjh8nML3gsipWtfHejl0mOx6JYjNfP01tNf-1r8xTYE7PFiHm6B6iv60Whuf6Pn7XsLtLAHMH9H0PmjOX5uyP4Yh8eC5G44d75J6SoTUlgsYGXUB17LfYXzaWRlFk-9-i4DNddAKIfrAeDSK9LRmO0Zt_FvWXu6qaov6Ns4dlkE4QVU-S_o9OOUosUIR-UdvtWryZVh_rECqy1nzTAvEH7m_fkOeGW6c_JolTcr6PKRDLTVh6t0SXyeVVbbcm8ID-qtSYg_iOGEIXprtmEraQzb13EznxKLFmZSiMNG7PMLv-E5EWm1aX5_n3YadViTlFv0UWTTzQszLyi3XsOKWtlkRjEllQjsLwUISVsgurLh4CbduK__UF=w720-h505-no)
Front legs are 4x4, but the rear legs (due to attachment to the wall) can be 2x4. That saves some money. Here's a cut-away to help you understand the leg attachment....
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kPeDEunesOdjzKR2IrCLTUD28Ngmby1EURdEj8gMILKau5Rf_bj8uAKrb9-eLev3Zj5oVxYgJv7b0NdxgwiaB8xYdfKHSYlmjyf184mo965XUPgihF9ytPCGBMgj41Bb7SIMBhoc478yCtJFKBW23iIBlVt5mXwqf2rkAZfRXB-ydmkjccrjcOiyTTo6EaCo-iITBQCZn755oTpHEPo3CXPoH20zpxDPmnBpmXTzcZeHSOTTD2ETtI1kflWtuBjOy3dxtinj52yEDZEJciQ6Y-b3ZuUbad4IPkdnf-YyDW5aJlqRwTUoKwXfgy3_RYbEu2ak-FndAVIcOlwrSg1vI5K46lGh5taAbRpBS_FjMrIk2CrpsQK5ZlcCOod2K5S2e-EY470Zex5wBJeevA0QMUAbvNM2X5SL-1ZQZgCwlfnccs_nf9xxzTpHlvVJRSPnR8HR0CK5EfO1Eya4NXYget8V5W3yCqX2dYUsKdXVjNyeqniGIimeXJeNE36vB2xDjJKsQlwCKUCb-AeshKciyZ4NopSi_bVpweVhK7XKQI9ZsAcL_pAz519UBfRAOxWz8lulWfvM2_DF6QBuK5SKtQsGF9a_vFbJZlVgCh_Gc_nRrQDQe-KH=w480-h516-no)
See how the 20" deep skirt (dark green) in the rear comes down ? If you put one #8x3" sheet rock screw as high as you can get it, then another as low as you can get it into each wall stud, you'll end up with a huge triangulation arrangement that will support weight and make the bench super rigid.
The top is best made with a 4x8' sheet of good plywood, ripped into two 2x8' sections, glued to each other. But, you might cut material costs further by buying only 1 sheet of plywood. Whatever is not used on the top then becomes the rear skirt. The thinner top is reinforced by adding extra front-to-rear 2x4 bracing (red) standing on edge....
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ruyE9Lz8y_5OOPjD5cY3vXMMrB2oKHRBL5k7ArVm7NKP5rTDLd07BcZ9blbLK8ToZ94KR-qH7NagUgznBT4oE113tyVOhkYg_OKj3_DJSzGyF2BHq9zDZD4LdXIXbueu6MyBhxzaQ_cqdlqq8-gef1qs2PzHxRWJKi259eng9x4JdmFpFXQf6mQRvEMcLRdmdKbBMD8FpwBHyL-_u0KbWOmFpnmvj4poAxr8OPg8Y7lisRzDqkN9FBvcCVFveGukT9wCFD4wj_aTR0d7zeEKv3KscjJsyh5ft1v61W6KeVrF942azgddRerQFRspuBeWpbPbZnLGuiVoJef8jxb9e0Zs8r3b2bwF6xmTK383FVsO4_SOoORmofbI47zOqMkUnQ0HZR5D-hTfJIqu2nyQdQWYvpm5Zn1YhmC96-j87zGWvApUl8wA24Ua6ZlYmrKKLZFqPE3reqtKwNPOswrqBREwUACxP5ZT9aN4ZqkQg5iHPG-TglBgsvzkc5PjXMiEU337T0PV9FSYEKGS4fEcTCGqOQmMgvtsRqtt-8CngtEl5YXbm4HIuYdTFktQIvc3D3Z7tP9TFqraSKqSvW6kDeSVgy3y-nokNLxRQ3malqbFkwf7Yya7=w720-h501-no)
You can brush the entire finished bench with polyurethane or simple sanding sealer.
Legs are simply screwed on, allowing you quick disassembly if you ever move.
;)
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Yup, moveability is the thing I'm wanting most. My only point of hesitance is to build something like this is I'll need to get a saw. The extended backdrop is a great idea as well, I was thinking of just doing a piece of 2x4, but this is way better.
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Yup, moveability is the thing I'm wanting most. My only point of hesitance is to build something like this is I'll need to get a saw. The extended backdrop is a great idea as well, I was thinking of just doing a piece of 2x4, but this is way better.
You can get any plywood seller to rip the 4x8' sheet for you. All you need to do is look at existing counters and get a feel for how deep you want your work bench. (I find 30 inches to be about max. Remember the shelf on the wall for the scale which you'll need to access often.) Then all you need is to buy a hand saw (or borrow a power saw) because the only cuts left are easy 1x6" and 2x4".
The one tool you definitely will need is a power drill with a torque limiting chuck for installing all the screws. I like a corded (AC powered) drill-driver.
;)
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Yup, moveability is the thing I'm wanting most. My only point of hesitance is to build something like this is I'll need to get a saw. The extended backdrop is a great idea as well, I was thinking of just doing a piece of 2x4, but this is way better.
You can get any plywood seller to rip the 4x8' sheet for you. All you need to do is look at existing counters and get a feel for how deep you want your work bench. (I find 30 inches to be about max. Remember the shelf on the wall for the scale which you'll need to access often.) Then all you need is to buy a hand saw (or borrow a power saw) because the only cuts left are easy 1x6" and 2x4".
The one tool you definitely will need is a power drill with a torque limiting chuck for installing all the screws. I like a corded (AC powered) drill-driver.
;)
Yea, I'm just real hesitant about the Home Depot cutters :( Maybe I just need to bring a tape measure and mark it myself. I'm definitely not going more than 30" depth. I spent quite a bit of time yesterday at Menards, and I think I'm okay with 24" depth but I would prefer 30". I checked the plywood, and the surface wasn't as smooth as I liked though. On the other hand, I also checked out the 1.25" glued pine board in the first post, and it was actually pretty good! Sanded smooth and no major holes. I think I am returning to this option as I can buy those nice metal legs and then buy 2x4 or 1x6 to brace the bench to the wall.
I bought a real nice Milwaukee M18 drill/driver combo last year which I love! Absolutely a huge step up in quality over Ryobi drill/drivers.
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The best table top material I have found is 1 1/8" sub flooring plywood. It has a tongue and groove on the long edges. I just cut off the tongue so one side if flat. It use to be pretty cheap. If you split, glue and screw you will have a 2 1/4" top plus what ever you top it with. I use tempered Masonite for topping the flooring.
The best legs I have used with the many work benches I have built were 4" x 3" steel tubing. The walls of the tubing were about 1/8" thick. Cut an opening or two in the leg for power outlets and you have power right at the front of the table for hand tools.
If you want a light weight reloading bench that you can store in a closet and not fasten to anything like the floor or wall you need to make a set back in the front of the table. Have a leg on both sides of the setback so the press sets at the edge of the setback but behind the legs. I made one with the perimeter made with channel iron and screw on pipe legs. When I went to my next location I just unscrewed the legs and loaded up the table top. The pipe legs were threaded at the top and bottom. I put screw on flanges on the bottom for feet and could adjust the legs for uneven floors. Most of the top was covered with 1/2" plywood except for the area for mounting the RCBS A2 press and it was 1/4" steel plate. The steel plate was over kill but I tapped the top for mounting different presses. Quick to set down a press and screw in the bolts.
Frank
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Where do you get rectangular steel tubing? I don't think I've ever seen that.
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Steel supply house...google that term. Comes in 24' lengths. Most will cut it in half free of charge, but if you buy less then the full length, you pay for the full length anyway. You likely could find some at a weld shop that does fabrication, and they'd likely cut it to length for a price.
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Hi SilverDragon50,
painter has it right. If you do any fabrication with steel you need a local friendly steel supply yard. Another good source is a scrap yard that buys used steel. You would be surprised what you can find laying around a scrap yard.
Get the tubing in lengths you can handle and then cut to size with a metal cutting chop saw. I had one with a 12" abrasive cut off wheel.
Frank
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The best table top material I have found is 1 1/8" sub flooring plywood. It has a tongue and groove on the long edges. I just cut off the tongue so one side if flat. It use to be pretty cheap. If you split, glue and screw you will have a 2 1/4" top plus what ever you top it with. I use tempered Masonite for topping the flooring.
The best legs I have used with the many work benches I have built were 4" x 3" steel tubing. The walls of the tubing were about 1/8" thick. Cut an opening or two in the leg for power outlets and you have power right at the front of the table for hand tools.
If you want a light weight reloading bench that you can store in a closet and not fasten to anything like the floor or wall you need to make a set back in the front of the table. Have a leg on both sides of the setback so the press sets at the edge of the setback but behind the legs. I made one with the perimeter made with channel iron and screw on pipe legs. When I went to my next location I just unscrewed the legs and loaded up the table top. The pipe legs were threaded at the top and bottom. I put screw on flanges on the bottom for feet and could adjust the legs for uneven floors. Most of the top was covered with 1/2" plywood except for the area for mounting the RCBS A2 press and it was 1/4" steel plate. The steel plate was over kill but I tapped the top for mounting different presses. Quick to set down a press and screw in the bolts.
Frank
How did you join the subflooring to the Steel tubing legs? I'm really curious!
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
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Local community dumps/recycling centers are a great place to find Free materials. Was helping a buddy spruce up his repair shop a couple years back and here are some finds. Free counter tops. Enough matching to make his service desk and matching corner shelves.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/vwpieces/My%20cars/Don%20Bus/P_20150815_150902_zpsqfpatxhh.jpg)
And the local metal scrap yard had some sheets of Stainless Steel that we used to cover the service desk and his work benches with a back splash.
The SS was likely from the fishing industry and may have been scrap mistakes. The edges are bent to roll over the edge of the bench and fit perfectly. Length cut off the back was used for the back splash on the wall.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/vwpieces/My%20cars/Don%20Bus/P_20150813_151010_zpsmlnert7r.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/vwpieces/My%20cars/Don%20Bus/P_20150813_202842_zpsz8qlwnv5.jpg)
Just some ideas and some insight of what can be done and found for cheap or Free. It's amazing what gets thrown out or scrapped. Tools and imagination...
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Hi Scarlett Pistol,
I used 1 1/2" angle iron. Lagged the angle iron to the top and bolted to the legs. Fasten to the floor with angle iron and put in shelves the same way. Bolted a piece of angle iron to the leg with the flat top facing up then laid the shelf between the legs. I put cut outs in the shelf for the back legs so the shelf fit all the way to the back wall. I ran a 1/2" conduit between the front and back legs and then a 3/4" conduit down the back legs so I could mount outlets down the back of the bench. So I had outlets in the front and back of the bench. You can never have too many outlets. You have to make sure your legs/conduits are grounded if you use them for outlets.
Frank
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<snip> You have to make sure your legs/conduits are grounded if you use them for outlets.
Frank
As a wire monkey in a previous life, correct use of grounding screws in the metal boxes will properly ground the conduit and boxes.
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Started to move into my new place. Thought I would share a pic of my workbench.
(http://i.imgur.com/Zx42cr6.jpg)
Uses a 30x60x5/4" thick piece of pine for the top. Oiled w/ Danish oil. 1x12"x60" for the shelf and back crossbar. Legs are Edsal 5709.
Alone, the legs are pretty flimsy, but all the boards help it get really sturdy!
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Nice! Curious to hear how it holds up.
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Should hopefully install the reloading press tomorrow or sometime this week. I'm still trying to plan where all the desks will go! I'm happy I didn't go with a 72" bench since I think the length may have made the board too weak in the middle. This has little flex when I lean on the middle!
Trying to think of any workbench items I might want to invest in now. I'm starting to look at some 4" vises, but I don't know if I'll actually use it! Maybe if I end up getting the SP-01C so I can swap out sights :P
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Started to move into my new place. Thought I would share a pic of my workbench.
(http://i.imgur.com/Zx42cr6.jpg)
Uses a 30x60x5/4" thick piece of pine for the top. Oiled w/ Danish oil. 1x12"x60" for the shelf and back crossbar. Legs are Edsal 5709.
Hey, congrats ! That looks awesome. I know you're proud.
Alone, the legs are pretty flimsy, but all the boards help it get really sturdy!
And that's the key... think of the strength of the assembled product, not the individual pieces. That was brought home to me when I went inside an airplane one time with no interior. The individual aluminum pieces were so flimsy it was scary, but together the plane was quite rigid and very strong.
If you'd like to double that rigidity again, then bolt it to the wall with several L-brackets.
;)
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Haha, yea I thought about it, but the walls are painted this offwhite that would not be easy to repair once I move out. That said, this table is rock solid. I'd be very surprised if I get a lot of rocking with the reloading. I just got approved to join a new club tomorrow that I can shoot reloads at so not much longer!!
I can't wait! It's also so nice having so much more storage space with that shelf. I've been thinking of things to add to the workbench, and I think I might get a small 4" vise, but I can't think of anything else. I might get a long 4' power strip and bolt it to the rear, but I think I'll survive with a single powerstrip. I did want to try and coat the table to deal with solvents, but I keep reading that oiling the table is the way to go.