The Original CZ Forum
CZ PISTOL CLUBS => CZ SP-01 and variants => Topic started by: alank2 on August 01, 2017, 01:43:51 PM
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Hi Everyone,
I took my son to the range and we shot the SP-01. Always a smooth shooter, but it tends to bite my trigger finger and did the same to my son! I almost recall talk of changing out the trigger to something different? Will that solve the bite issue? Does anyone know the part number?
Thanks,
Alan
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You need a CZ 85 trigger.
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Cajun Gun Works text for this trigger says it will fix the "trigger bite" issue.
CZ 85C trigger - https://cajungunworks.com/product/85c/
The CZ Custom website just says this is the CZ 85 Combat trigger
https://czcustom.com/cz-85-combat-original-trigger-with-overtravel-screw.html
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Thanks guys; I 'll check it out!
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Most everyone who tries the old 85c trigger likes it.
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Sorry to bring this thread back, but cajun gun works has many triggers:
https://cajungunworks.com/product/85c/
https://cajungunworks.com/product/75585-85c-old-style-trigger/?attribute_color=Stainless+Steel&attribute_trigger-style=Old+Style+Trigger+75585
https://cajungunworks.com/product/75585-85c-old-style-trigger/?attribute_color=Charcoal+Black+DLC&attribute_trigger-style=Old+Style+Trigger+75585
Is the first one a CZ part, but the bottom two are reproductions?
I like the black one, but that almost doubles the price of the top one...
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Yes I believe that is the case, the top being an OEM part per the CGW website. The bottom two (75585's) are definitely US-made CGW parts and only differ by coating. I have used the 75585-stainless on an SP01 and vastly prefer it to the OEM trigger, I also believe CGW's 75585s have slightly less curve than the OEM CZ 85C trigger, but not positive on that so that may be something else to consider. But definitely send CGW an email and they can definitively answer your questions.
Not to throw another option at you but my all-time favorite SP01 trigger+internals combo is the CGW pro-kit with the CZC flat DA/SA trigger ( https://czcustom.com/cz-parts-all/triggers/czc-straight-da-trigger.html ). This requires a short reach kit though, are you running stock firing pin, TRS, FPB lifter, and TRS?
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Thanks; it is currently all stock.
Also, I'm at a loss for understanding why the curve has to do with the bite if anyone knows why that happens!
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Generally, the trigger bite will depend on hand size and how you grip the pistol. For myself, I drive the webbing of my firing hand as far up the beaver tail as possible. With this grip and my hand size + finger length, my trigger finger naturally rides at the top of the tigger when my finger is straight out. So, on a highly curved trigger my finger tends to be at the top of the curve creating a pinch point between the top of the curve and the frame. I can lower my finger and angle it downward to be in the middle of the trigger but this is less natural and less comfortable for me as is it forces my hand down slightly. So that’s why a flatter trigger is more comfortable for me.
For reference, I have medium sized hands with medium length & medium thickness fingers.
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Looking at this more closely - there is a 75585 that has more curve, and a 75665 that has less curve, but isn't straight like the other trigger you posted. I'm thinking my best bet is the 75665 in DLC because it will match the SP01.
What does the TRPIN floating trigger pin do? Is the stock pin a roll pin of some type?
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What does the TRPIN floating trigger pin do? Is the stock pin a roll pin of some type?
The stock trigger pin is flared on both ends to hold it in place. A good and proper punch will be needed to drive it out and they can be stout. The floating trigger pin does just that. The center of the pin is machined smaller and is held in place by the trigger return spring. The floating pin is re-useable possibly for life. The stock pin is really a one and done part.
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CGW suggested 75585 as the best one for the trigger bite issue, so I'll give that a try.
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CGW suggested 75585 as the best one for the trigger bite issue, so I'll give that a try.
I have that trigger in all my CZ's. The original serrated trigger in the PCR's was notorious for trigger sting and the 75585 cures that.
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If I don't make my CZ a single action I use the 85c trigger. I swapped them not because of trigger bite I just didn't like the big curve it had I called it "The Hook".
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Trigger has arrived. It has two set screws, but I think that CGW said the top one isn't needed for just a trigger swap. Are either needed or can I just leave them both out?
Also, working on the SP01 tactical, I asked them if the trigger can be swapped without removing all the sear area and CGW said it is challenging, but could be done. I'm not sure how. I drove out the trigger pin, but I don't see any clearance to remove the pin that attaches the trigger to the trigger bar.
Does the rear/sear area have to be disassembled? I also some a YT video about using a small pin to keep everything in it in place, but I don't have one of those. The pin going through the frame does look somewhat staked on the left side that supports the sear block.
Any tips?
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The hammer had to be forward to get the trigger bar to move up enough to disconnect it from the trigger.
I got it finally. I'm glad CGW included a slave pin for the trigger spring, that helped greatly. I'll give it a try at the range, hopefully on more trigger bite!
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The easiest way to perform this is with a slave pin and a floating trigger pin.
Barring that you can make a slave pin with a qtip shaft and you can reuse the OEM trigger pin. You may also be able to use the main spring plug retaining pin as a slave pin. I have never used it so I'm not positive it is the correct length to fit within the sear/ejector cage properly and still allow it to be removed from the frame intact.
There are better videos out there that will show the steps. Here is an old video I made for the Rami BD but most of the internals are the same.
https://rumble.com/v6kmmmj-dissassembling-a-cz-rami-bd.html
https://rumble.com/v6kmqsy-assembling-a-cz-rami-bd.html
You can use both set screws but they have to be setup properly or the gun won't function or reset. Here is CGW's tutorial:
https://cdn1.cajungunworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/28155351/How-To-Adjusting-Trigger-Screws.pdf
Cheers,
Toby
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Thanks Toby!
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So, I'm thinking about the bottom screw (overtravel). Does this play any role in the trigger bite issue? Is there any reason to NOT install it? I was thinking if it isn't present, it can't cause a malfunction.
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It only stops the overtravel position of the trigger. It shouldn't have any impact on the trigger feel.
Are you experiencing trigger sting where the trigger is forcibly getting pushed forward and hitting the trigger finger during firing? Or are you finding the trigger is pinching your finger between the guard and trigger during firing? These are too separate issues. Trigger pinch/bite is generally fixed by replacing with the less curved 85C trigger.
Trigger sting is not understood well. I think there is a chance it is caused by improper DA timing or ??? If this is what your are experiencing, then you might want to speak with CGW or CZ Custom to see if they have a solution.
Cheers,
Toby
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Finally got to the range with it - the trigger bite problem is finally solved! Thanks everyone for the advice!