The Original CZ Forum
CZ PISTOL CLUBS => CZ 2075 RAMI CLUB => Topic started by: Axam86 on January 27, 2021, 09:44:45 PM
-
I have two rami in 9mm. The one with the decocker has a slide issue? It happens randomly where the slide is slow or lazy. Sort of hangs up before completely moving forward. It’s been to CZ for this issue and I have cleaned and lubed it multiple times all with same results... any thoughts???
-
need a little more detail to answer that.
Does it only do this when chambering a round or will it hesitate with no mag or ammo?
How old are the recoil springs (especially the outer spring)?
What is the pistol doing at the point of hesitation (e.g. round sliding up breech face, rim going under the extractor hook, etc)?
My first thought is to 1) check the breech face for a burr (especially around the firing pin hole) and 2) make sure there is no gunk under the extractor hook and it pivots freely.
If the outer recoil spring is more than 700-800 rounds old, it is likely time for a replacement.
-
Only appears when chambering a round.
Doesn’t matter what grain, 115 or 125.
Recoil springs replaced by CZ
Slide ejects round and while returning forward you can feel and watch the slide almost stop before closing
I checked for burs when recently disassembled and found none
-
what about the extractor?
-
Is it magazine dependent. Follower springs and rough feed lips can cause issues.
Hope this helps.
JW
-
I see you started a new thread, but May as well keep this one going.
1. You say you can see and feel it. So does that mean it happens while actuating the slide by hand?
2. If so, does it do this while shooting?
3. If only by hand ( when chambering a round) are you slowly riding the slide, or letting the slide fly either by releasing with slide release or slingshot?
Just trying to clarify so I can picture it in my mind.
-
Do you pull the slide to the rear and let it go?
Or hit the slide release and let it go?
Either should chamber, completely.
Are you grabbing the slide, pulling to the rear and then "riding" the slide forward to chamber the round. "Riding" means holding on to the slide and easing it forward.
I have a pistol, or three, that are still tight enough that if I ride the slide forward even with no round to chamber they'll stop just short of the slide being fully forward.
Notice the slide hanging back over the frame just a bit. I small push of the thumb moves it all the way forward and the barrel will move up into position. When just letting the slide fly forward to chamber the round it always goes completely forward.
(https://i.imgur.com/04rrxwhl.jpg)
-
Are the decocker model and the safety model’s slides interchangeable?
If they are; have you tried swapping slides? And/or spring(s)/guide rods?
-
Only appears when chambering a round.
Doesn’t matter what grain, 115 or 125.
Recoil springs replaced by CZ
Slide ejects round and while returning forward you can feel and watch the slide almost stop before closing
I checked for burs when recently disassembled and found none
Remove magazine.
Insert round or snapcap manually into the chamber via ejection port. Pull slide rearward and let it go.
Does it do the same?
-
Only appears when chambering a round.
Doesn’t matter what grain, 115 or 125.
Recoil springs replaced by CZ
Slide ejects round and while returning forward you can feel and watch the slide almost stop before closing
I checked for burs when recently disassembled and found none
Remove magazine.
Insert round or snapcap manually into the chamber via ejection port. Pull slide rearward and let it go.
Does it do the same?
unless you have already invested in a stock of spare extractors, I wouldn't recommend that procedure :o
-
Only appears when chambering a round.
Doesn’t matter what grain, 115 or 125.
Recoil springs replaced by CZ
Slide ejects round and while returning forward you can feel and watch the slide almost stop before closing
I checked for burs when recently disassembled and found none
Remove magazine.
Insert round or snapcap manually into the chamber via ejection port. Pull slide rearward and let it go.
Does it do the same?
unless you have already invested in a stock of spare extractors, I wouldn't recommend that procedure :o
So far this method has never harmed my extractors. It's not something we tested everyday.
Anyway, I suggest what I've done several times.
-
according to the people I talked to at CZ-USA, it is the #1 way to break an extractor
-
according to the people I talked to at CZ-USA, it is the #1 way to break an extractor
:)
That's probably true... and I can consider myself as a lucky one then ::)
-
according to the people I talked to at CZ-USA, it is the #1 way to break an extractor
This is a fact. If one takes the time to inspect the CZ extractor it's easy to understand how it can be damaged since the face of the extractor is flat with no radius whatsoever so you are slamming a flat surface into the rear of the cartridge which can also have it's rim damaged by the extractor crashing into it. 1911's can have the extractor "tuning" ruined by this method as well. There are very few pistols where this method is acceptable, Beretta 92 is the only one that comes to mind and they intentionally engineered them for this.
-
according to the people I talked to at CZ-USA, it is the #1 way to break an extractor
This is a fact. If one takes the time to inspect the CZ extractor it's easy to understand how it can be damaged since the face of the extractor is flat with no radius whatsoever so you are slamming a flat surface into the rear of the cartridge which can also have it's rim damaged by the extractor crashing into it. 1911's can have the extractor "tuning" ruined by this method as well. There are very few pistols where this method is acceptable, Beretta 92 is the only one that comes to mind and they intentionally engineered them for this.
So I definitely consider myself as a lucky. My extractor in curved and there's no harm to it once is riding back on case rim.
Perhaps CZ used curved extractors in some production time frame? My P-01 is 2018
EDIT:
The extractor is curved at the front, but flat at the back, where casing is grabbed. So perhaps SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM was talking about that flatness...
-
according to the people I talked to at CZ-USA, it is the #1 way to break an extractor
This is a fact. If one takes the time to inspect the CZ extractor it's easy to understand how it can be damaged since the face of the extractor is flat with no radius whatsoever so you are slamming a flat surface into the rear of the cartridge which can also have it's rim damaged by the extractor crashing into it. 1911's can have the extractor "tuning" ruined by this method as well. There are very few pistols where this method is acceptable, Beretta 92 is the only one that comes to mind and they intentionally engineered them for this.
So I definitely consider myself as a lucky. My extractor in curved and there's no harm to it once is riding back on case rim.
Perhaps CZ used curved extractors in some production time frame? My P-01 is 2018
EDIT:
The extractor is curved at the front, but flat at the back, where casing is grabbed. So perhaps SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM was talking about that flatness...
The face of the extractors in all my 75 series CZ's is flat and that's what I'm talking about. Regardless of what shape yours may be you are lucky so far that you have not damaged an extractor. The CZ simply was not engineered to have the slide slammed home on an already chambered round.
-
I have two rami in 9mm. The one with the decocker has a slide issue? It happens randomly where the slide is slow or lazy. Sort of hangs up before completely moving forward. It’s been to CZ for this issue and I have cleaned and lubed it multiple times all with same results... any thoughts???
Forgetting recent discussion about extractor (thx guys for pointing this out to me, I'm still going to use my technique but with laser cartridge, which has no rim), has the issue been resolved?