Friction fit hammer pin

[midaltantic44]

Earlier today the hammer on my shadow 2 became stuck in the full cocked position after I racked the slide. Took slide off, and neither the trigger bar, trigger or hammer would move. Sear did move. Took it all apart, including trigger assembly and trigger spring. The only anomaly I found was the hammer pin projecting a tiny bit on one side. And yes, I should have taken a photo. Anyway, I stick it in the drill press vise and pressed it back in. Assembled it all. The trigger spring sprung into thin air so I replaced it w a spare. Now it works fine.

Thoughts all? Should I pull the hammer and replace the pin? Afraid to use loctite. Have two new pins on order.

[Tok36]

I am a bit lost. The Hammer Pin should be able to be pushed in with finger pressure. The Hammer Pin is then retained by the Hammer Pin Retaining Pin.

[midaltantic44]

They have to be pressed in so they don?t have to be staked.

From the CGW web site
 
Pins used a stepped design with 75% of the pin being .086? in diameter, with the remaining 25% of the pin being .093?. This ensures a very tight, no staking required fit. The CGW pin is also much harder than the factory pin, which helps smooth the action. Even better, they can be installed, removed, and reinstalled.


Heres the link. https://cajungunworks.com/product/75009-hammer-pin/

[M1A4ME]

If it came loose/moved once (you're talking about the pin that connects the hammer spring guide to the hammer - right?) it'll probably come loose again.

A new pin might solve that issue or it might not if the problem is a hole in the hammer that's not quite the right diameter.

I'd buy a new pin and install it, if the new pin works loose that would be my excuse to buy a "race" hammer for it.

I've not installed a competition hammer on one of my P07/P09's but I've put a couple in CZ75 models and they do make for a real nice trigger pull.

[copemech]

They have to be pressed in so they don?t have to be staked.

From the CGW web site
 
Pins used a stepped design with 75% of the pin being .086? in diameter, with the remaining 25% of the pin being .093?. This ensures a very tight, no staking required fit. The CGW pin is also much harder than the factory pin, which helps smooth the action. Even better, they can be installed, removed, and reinstalled.


Heres the link. https://cajungunworks.com/product/75009-hammer-pin/

you are referring to the pins that hold the disco and strut to the hammer, and noy the pivot pin

[DJK11]

Is he referring to the #9 pins?  I asked about those pins and never received an answer.  No big deal.  The #9 pins seem to to be non existent.  Phoned and emailed cgw and cz USA and didn?t get a straight answer.  Cgw said reuse the OEM pin or use the 75009? pin.  CZ USA has the pin but it?s described as the hammer pivot retaining pin.  They said it?s the correct part just described wrong with the same part number as the retaining pin.  Who knows.  I?ll find out when everything shows up.

[Tok36]

They have to be pressed in so they don?t have to be staked.

From the CGW web site
 
Pins used a stepped design with 75% of the pin being .086? in diameter, with the remaining 25% of the pin being .093?. This ensures a very tight, no staking required fit. The CGW pin is also much harder than the factory pin, which helps smooth the action. Even better, they can be installed, removed, and reinstalled.


Heres the link. https://cajungunworks.com/product/75009-hammer-pin/

I see, i misunderstood you. I see that they are referred to as "Hammer Pins" on the CGW website. Generally i refer to them as hammer/disco pin, Hammer/hammer strut pin or #9 pins. In the manual the #18 "hammer Pin" is the pin that the hammer pivots on.  I had not seen these special pins designed to work with the factory comp hammers. Sounds like they should solve your issue. I look forward to hearing how things go.

[tdogg]

Earlier today the hammer on my shadow 2 became stuck in the full cocked position after I racked the slide. Took slide off, and neither the trigger bar, trigger or hammer would move. Sear did move. Took it all apart, including trigger assembly and trigger spring. The only anomaly I found was the hammer pin projecting a tiny bit on one side. And yes, I should have taken a photo. Anyway, I stick it in the drill press vise and pressed it back in. Assembled it all. The trigger spring sprung into thin air so I replaced it w a spare. Now it works fine.

Thoughts all? Should I pull the hammer and replace the pin? Afraid to use loctite. Have two new pins on order.

Mid,

Those pins come from the factory staked.   I restake them and then stone the sides of the hammer smooth for reassembly.

Cgw has #9 pins that are supposedly larger to make them a press fit but they aren't a press fit with an oem hammer. 

Edit:  I haven't seen the stepped pins before, those may work with oem hammers.

Given the failure you had (I've had the same thing happen), I don't take any chances and stake them.   It renders the gun inoperable when they move.

Cheers,
Toby

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