CGW Hammer bite

[dbarn]

Neat, did you just cut, polish it and reblue it? Glad that it is working out, thank you for the pics.

Yes sir used a diamond cutter then a grinding stone, and finally 400 to 1000 grit sand paper. Took it down only to the spine and used Brownell's Oxpho Blue to finish. Such a joy to grip as high as I do with the SP-01 with no pain. Surprisingly my groups have shrunk also. Go figure!

[dbarn]

I know a nice hammer improves the SA trigger pull. 

What does it do for the double action trigger pull.  I'm curious.  Does it make the trigger pull lighter?  Just smoother?

To me it seems smoother and lighter. No question it also makes the piece more of a joy to carry with something less obtrusive and one fewer item to snag.

[Earl Keese]

I know a nice hammer improves the SA trigger pull. 

What does it do for the double action trigger pull.  I'm curious.  Does it make the trigger pull lighter?  Just smoother?

Doesn't really affect the DA pull, it affects the break.

[Steve Menegon]

Dbarn,

That looks good. How thick is the hammer now where it hits the firing pin?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Steve, I've not measured, however the thickness is the same as it was before with only the cocking piece carefully ground down to the spine then lightly sanded. I can tell you that just like before I can set off most primers with an 11.5 hammer spring and all of them with a 13lb to include Winchester NATO.

Thoroughly enjoying being able to shoot this pistol with confidence and no worries whatsoever with hammer bite. The look has quickly grown on me as well.

I measured my SP-01 Cajun hammer and it is .165"  at the point where it hits the firing pin. The 75 Compact I cut the ring off measures .115". I would try the thinner one, but not in a carry piece. For comparison sake, the hammer on my Walther PPX is .175" thick at the point of impact with firing pin.

Glad it works for you Dbarn. I don't have an issue with grip such as you, but you got me thinking about copying your idea.

[Steve Menegon]

The stock PPX hammer, in case you were curious.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[dbarn]

Very interesting pistol on what originally appeared to be striker fired but is actually a bobbed hammer design. No hammer bite possible here!

Thanks for the measurements on the CGW hammer and the PPX for comparison. Not sure which hammer Earl used above. I'm of the opinion that removing the cocking piece did not change the impact of the hammer on the firing pin that much. To the extent that I'm able to light off the same primers with the different hammer springs as before. Also wanted to mention that if a person still desires to manually cock the pistol, it's easily accomplished from the hammer safety notch or default de-cock position.

Very nearly put this pistol on consignment at a gun shop. I've been wanting to like this pistol for a very long time. Hopefully others will consider this route should they have this same nagging and painful problem. Best regards.

[Earl Keese]

I used a Cajun Race hammer for mine. I asked around and was told that the lighter hammer will actually move faster and hit harder, so no problem with primer ignition. Believe me, chopping a Cajun hammer was a tough decision but I'm happy with it. For me it was just to do something different and to make the pistol more comfortable for long rides while holstered. I'm glad some of you guys were able to solve your hammer bite issue by doing this. When I get this project finished up, I'll share some better pics.

[dbarn]

Here's a link to a thread where the same solution was offered a few years back. Interesting that CGW stated that the different hammers may not offer much relief and refused to cut down a hammer for an individual. Trying to think of any negatives to cutting down a hammer for someone experiencing hammer bite in an aluminum compact and just can't come up with any.

https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=93231.0

[Fuzzy Sights]

Dbarn,

Loss of mass on the hammer if combined with a light hammer spring will affect reliability.  As long as the hammer spring remains constant, usually there is no issue.  Had a problem with a SIG back in the day and I changed both at one time.  Then spent months trying to figure out my issue.  Once I reinstalled the original spring everything was fine and was able to drop it a couple of lbs., but not 5, which is what I originally did.

JW

[dbarn]

Dbarn,

Loss of mass on the hammer if combined with a light hammer spring will affect reliability.  As long as the hammer spring remains constant, usually there is no issue.  Had a problem with a SIG back in the day and I changed both at one time.  Then spent months trying to figure out my issue.  Once I reinstalled the original spring everything was fine and was able to drop it a couple of lbs., but not 5, which is what I originally did.

JW

Yes, I have the CGW Pro Package and after removing the cocking piece tried both the 11.5 and 13lb hammer spring. The 11.5 still lit off Federal , Winchester, and CCI but had issues with Winchester NATO. The 13lb lit off Winchester NATO as well. However this is exactly what it did before modifying the hammer.

[briang2ad]

Loss of mass on the hammer if combined with a light hammer spring will affect reliability.   

Yes, and it may just INCREASE reliability, hence some folks offering skeletonized hammers (like for a SIG).  Decreased mass also means increased velocity given the same hammer spring.  This increases kinetic energy because of the V^2 term.  Of course you can rob the mass enough to render your project a failure.  It would be interesting to see this  done as a study. 

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

Loss of mass on the hammer if combined with a light hammer spring will affect reliability.   

Yes, and it may just INCREASE reliability, hence some folks offering skeletonized hammers (like for a SIG).  Decreased mass also means increased velocity given the same hammer spring.  This increases kinetic energy because of the V^2 term.  Of course you can rob the mass enough to render your project a failure.  It would be interesting to see this  done as a study.

Depends on the gun and the application. They've been doing it on 1911's for decades now. Problem is guys who know nothing about what they're doing swapping parts and getting poor results. You have to think out the process not just grind metal away and throw light springs at the gun. Work incrementally to find what works and what doesn't.