CZ-75 Sear Block Re-install

[jgaffney]

OK, it's me again with another issue with putting my CZ-75 Compact back together.

Thanks to the help I got here, I now have the trigger, spring and trigger bar installed. The trigger bar feels like it's under spring pressure upwards - is that the trigger spring?

The Youtube videos show the sear block just dropping right into the frame. Then, just push back on the block to align the holes and install the safety, minding the spring leg inside the sear block. Then, push back on the safety detent to push the safety all the way in.

When I put the sear block in the frame, I push down and back to get the safety started. I flip the spring up out of the way, and push the safety until it's almost to the outside frame rail. However, no matter how hard I push back on the sear block, it won't line up with the hole on the frame. Eyeballing the other end of the safety, the end with the detent notch, says that I'm about 1/16" too far forward.

I have checked the relationship between the sear, the hammer and the disconnector. Most of the videos show the hammer down (fired position) when the sear goes in. That makes it worse for me. Also, if I let the hammer flop, it goes to a half-cock position but no farther.

All the cutaways and parts diagrams don't show this area clearly. Either they are 3-d exploded diagrams, or an animation that is not clear at all.

Any help would be appreciated.

[DenStinett]

Welcome to the Forum

OK, it's me again with another issue with putting my CZ-75 Compact back together.

Thanks to the help I got here, I now have the trigger, spring and trigger bar installed. The trigger bar feels like it's under spring pressure upwards - is that the trigger spring?
There is a Trigger Bar Spring that sits atop the Mag Release Spring and under that Screw

The Youtube videos show the sear block just dropping right into the frame. Then, just push back on the block to align the holes and install the safety, minding the spring leg inside the sear block. Then, push back on the safety detent to push the safety all the way in.
That is about it
Did you remove the Hammer Spring ?
If not, you may have to manipulate either the Trigger and/or the Hammer to get the Sear set so the Block with drop into place

When I put the sear block in the frame, I push down and back to get the safety started. I flip the spring up out of the way, and push the safety until it's almost to the outside frame rail. However, no matter how hard I push back on the sear block, it won't line up with the hole on the frame. Eyeballing the other end of the safety, the end with the detent notch, says that I'm about 1/16" too far forward.

I have checked the relationship between the sear, the hammer and the disconnector. Most of the videos show the hammer down (fired position) when the sear goes in. That makes it worse for me. Also, if I let the hammer flop, it goes to a half-cock position but no farther.

All the cutaways and parts diagrams don't show this area clearly. Either they are 3-d exploded diagrams, or an animation that is not clear at all.

Any help would be appreciated.

Hope that helps

[Tok36]

   It can be a figgity process until you get the hang of it. As Den stated, removing the Hammer Spring can be helpful for getting the sear cage back into position.

[M1A4ME]

Sounds like (hammer flop?) you have not hammer spring in the frame.

You can push on the back of the hammer, pull the trigger and the hammer should go forward to fully forward position.

How about that little detent on the left (inside) the frame?  Are you getting it pulled to the rear enough to allow the safety to fully insert?

The spring leg in the center of the safety shaft does need to be up/out of the way enough to get the safety shaft partially inserted but is okay to be on the safety shaft after the safety is far enough in.  It's the little detent/spring inside the left side of the frame that has to go to the rear to let the safety go completely in.

Picture of the little detent.  The two little legs stick up and are against the frame.  The spring slips over the little pin on the back.  The pointed end sticks into a slot in the shaft of the safety to keep it in the pistol frame.  You have to use something like a pick or a small (very small) screw driver to push against those legs and move it to the rear to clear the safety slot till it's in the frame.  Then let the spring move the detent forward to lock that safety in.



In this picture you can see the two legs that stick up on the detent up against the left side of the frame (inside).  See the space behind the rear pin?  That is to allow you to move/push that detent towards the rear of the slide so the safety will slide in/out of the frame.  It really doesn't have to move much.

[jgaffney]

Yes, I have the trigger spring out, and a Cajun Gunworks replacement ready to go back in.

The safety detent is not the issue - I can't even get the safety in that far yet.

I tried pushing down on the trigger bar, pulling back on the trigger, and pushing the hammer forward. That made things worse.

Is there a diagram somewhere that clearly shows the relationship between the hammer, disconnector and sear? The 3D animations don't help.

I will continue to wiggle and shake - and resist the temptation to pick up a hammer!

[DMY]

On my SP-01, the mag release springs in the mag well push up on the trigger bar. I had to use downward pressure to drop the sear cage in. Once in, I used a punch to hold the sear cage in place until I could install the left safety.

[Tok36]

   It may be worth while to remove the Hammer and the connected Hammer Strut and then try to install the sear cage. Removing the Safety Detent and spring may also be worth while. Doing this may allow you to count these parts out as potential causes. Closely inspecting the inside of the sear cage frame pocket for foreign objects may also be worth while.

Process of elimination seam logical at this point.

Note that the sear cage has a notch/gap at its rear where in interfaces with a shelf at the back of the frames interior.  When you install it, it initially goes in at an angle with the rear of the sear cage tilted down.

A hammer is definitely unnecessary for this process. Using a hammer will only cause more issues.

[DenStinett]

.... the temptation to pick up a hammer!

Whatever you do DON'T
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4F4qzPbcFiA

[Tok36]

Another thing just crossed my mind.

I am unclear how far this pistol was disassembled but, make sure that you have not mixed up the Hammer Pin Retaining Pin (#19 Pin) and the Trigger to Trigger Bar Pin (#9 pin) . The #9 pin is longer and if it is installed in place of the Hammer Pin Retaining Pin, it can impede the installation of the sear cage.