9mm pistols in the wind (lower wind speed than Tuesday, however!

[Joe L]

Forecast today was 13 mph winds, low 30's F temp, so I went back to the range in the mountains of New Mexico.  Surprisingly, no one else there (initially) and wind was dead calm at 8:30am.  Set up to shoot the P-10S with red dot from a wrist rest.  First few rounds were good, then I did something I don't usually do, which was zero the pistol at 100 yards.  Since it had been zeroed at 25 yards at 800 feet above sea level, this wasn't a big adjustment.  However, the adjustments were erratic and not tracking so I put the pistol away.  By this time, the wind had picked up and was gusting to maybe 25 mph, but not as often or as strong as on Tuesday.  I pulled out the P-09, took 5 shots, made one adjustment, and proceeded to shoot a good 10 round sequence, in strong, variable winds, making hold changes from shot to shot, like I was kind of learning to do on Tuesday with the .45. 

This video is only 5 minutes long, 5 shots from the P-10S, 15 from the P-09. 

https://youtu.be/dTce6u21ebs

The two bad shots I think were just poor execution on my part while gauging the wind.  There were fewer "bad" shots with the P-09, probably because I have more experience with it than I do with the CZ-97B"E", and I've shot it more recently.  If you are thinking about the wind, sight picture and trigger control have to be executed subconsciously, in my opinion.  The more experience and confidence one has with a given pistol, the better one's chances of executing good shots while dealing with the wind. 

I may try the P-10F tomorrow.  I had to change the battery out first in the Holosun 507C sight.  But only a few rounds, as I am running low on 9mm. 

Joe 

[Lock-n-load]

In Wyoming in the winter we deal with 40-50 mph sustained winds almost every day from oct till may. You just learn to shoot with it. And all the ranges are set up so the direction the wind comes Is from behind you. Of corse if it changes your paper targets fly away ! Lol. So mostly we shoot steel .

[M1A4ME]

Joe, I agree with you that sight picture and trigger control (to a point) is done without me thinking about it.

The point?  Up to the point where the trigger stops at the "wall."  I pay no attention to the distance from sear reset rearwards to the "wall."  My mind and trigger finger just move the trigger to that point.  And stops, till I make the conscious decision to pull the trigger far enough to the rear to fire.

I've been told (by an experienced Navy Rifle Team shooter) I'm doing it wrong.  I know I've read many times over the years that you should be surprised when the gun goes BANG.  I only have one that has surprised me, the darn Tactical Sport with the 1.7 lb. SA trigger pull.  My P07/P09 trigger finger will usually put a round through the paper before I'm ready.  I have to do some dry firing first, before loading/shooting it or I will have surprise holes in the paper.

Back the the Navy shooter.  He told me that the sights should move so little that once they are there the trigger pull should begin, but be slow/soft/easy enough that it's not really a "I gotta pull it now because it's where I want it to be" effort/thought.  I know I can't hold it that steady now.  Maybe 30 or 40 years ago, but not now.

I don't recall shooting a pistol farther than 25 yds. in the wind.  Rifle?  Sure.  Not a handgun.

[Joe L]

M1A4ME--
I have my triggers set up so that they are not really crisp.  I want some predictable travel and resistance after taking up all the slack.  This is why the striker triggers seem to work for me.  I move the trigger fairly slowly the last little bit of movement.  I know about where in the travel/pressure the hammer/striker will fall.  If the gun is still steady just before the gun fires, I will have a good shot.  So it is my version of "prep the trigger"--the wall is just the starting point.  I can move the trigger maybe 70-80% of the sear engagement distance very comfortably without worrying about the gun going off.  Then there is much less chance of moving the gun as I move the trigger the last little bit of movement.  So, I have learned to get close to releasing the shot subconsciously as I steady the dot, and as soon as the wobble is minimized (not eliminated!) I release the shot by moving the trigger the last little bit. 

Each pistol and trigger mechanism design is a little different.  For example, my 97B"E" trigger was too crisp as delivered.  I put the stock hammer back in with CGW sear, etc., and it has been perfect for me ever since.  Only the Kadet trigger pull is a little lighter than the others, which are usually in the 3-3.5 lb range.  I can't control a crisp 2 lb trigger and coordinate the aiming with the release of the shot. 

Some of this technique is carryover from when I was shooting DA/SA Sigs in IDPA.  I became very proficient shooting double action simply by learning how much I could move the trigger before I had to have the sights aligned with the target, then the final bit of movement was closer to a single action shot.  I learned to tune the sears/hammers in single action mode to suit my trigger finger discipline.   

Joe

[Europe]

Being surprised by a bang is such a cliche. If you know your rifle/pistol, you will not be surprised. Of course it is important to exercise continuous pressure on the trigger. I would not overrate the "surprise" factor.