SP01 manual safety: Help with parts to convert to SAO

[Tok36]

   You may already be clear on this, but in case you are not, much like when you change a Sear, when you change a Hammer to a Comp/Race style Hammer, the safety will require hand fitting to regain safety function. This is because after market Hammers have an altered geometry to compensate for the shorter Hammer hooks that reduce the creep and improve the SA break. Closely examining the Safety contact surfaces with the slide off of the frame, may offer further clarity on the subject.

   This is why the CGW Adjustable Sear exists. It allows one to avoid hand fitting, after changing these parts. Hand fitting the Sear or Safety Lever is an option, but many choose to avoid the delicate process by picking up an Adjustable Sear.

CGW Adjustable Sear
https://cajungunworks.com/product/asb/

Hammer preference is subjective. Both the CGW and Comp Hammer are quite popular.

[smallbroken]

     Yes I have looked into those also, thank you.
I was looking into this: https://cajungunworks.com/product/race-hammer-kit/ or this https://cajungunworks.com/product/production-legal-drop-in-hammer-kit/
But time will tell. Thank you, you have been very helpful!

[smallbroken]

Aight, I got all the parts installed.
Removed the FPB and lifter. It did shorten the reset, however it is still way longer compared to my p10s.

Using the blue hammer spring. It breaks at 3lb from what my finger goes. It does have a lot of creep (at least for my taste) looks like I need to get some funds for the race hammer lol.
Pre-travel is almost gone( didn't want it to be completely gone). Overtravel is adjusted to as much as I could. I had it adjusted to the point just enough to where the hammer is dropped and it shorten the reset distance...however, I could not manually drop the hammer (errr the thing where you hold the hammer, pull the trigger back and guide the hammer up lmao)

What else can I do to shorten the reset more? cgw sear and hammer?

The work was wayyyy easier than I thought. Polished the parts too. Although..I did lose the lifter spring lmao! I changed out the lifter with the spacer and I was like..that was easy enough...then I thought..."wasn't there a spring there?" That's when I realize it flew somewhere and I didn't even notice lol!

[Tok36]

   Loosing or damaging FPB Lifter Springs is common, allot of folks keep extras around, if they are in and out of CZs often enough.

   A note on Overtravel set scerw adjustments. A bit of extra clearance is required to insure that the Top of the Hammer hooks do not rub on the underside of the Sear and prematurely wear out the parts. Once you find the appropriate adjustment, an extra 1/3 - 1/2 a turn on the overtravel set scerw is recommended,

   I am unclear on the significance of after market Hammers effects on SA reset distance. If there are potential gains, i assume that they are of debatable significance. The Adjustable Sear should not play into things. When you are pulling the Trigger at normal speed during live fire, reducing the SA reset distance past a point becomes hard to perceive. As you reduce the SA Trigger weight and reset distance, there is a point where unintentional doubling becomes more likely. This is something to keep in mind. I suggest shooting the pistol, to see how you feel about its current configuration.

Edit: The effect of an After market Hammer on the SA reset distance appears to be more significant than i was aware. I assume that this is the product of the Hammers influence on the Sear position with the Hammer fully cocked and the influence of the Hammer hooks depth on the Sear travel required to clear the Hammer hooks.

[smallbroken]

  Yes, I did adjust the overtravel just to the point I don't feel a grinding feeling anymore.
The creep is right after the wall, I squeeze the trigger a bit more and there's still some travel before the break, I assume because the stock hammer sits higher on the sear and aftermarket hammer will fix that?

Also, what'll happen if I completely remove the pretravel? since I removed my FPB, I shouldnt have to worry about disabling it like a glock safety plunger right?

[Tok36]

  Yes, I did adjust the overtravel just to the point I don't feel a grinding feeling anymore.
The creep is right after the wall, I squeeze the trigger a bit more and there's still some travel before the break, I assume because the stock hammer sits higher on the sear and aftermarket hammer will fix that?

   The after market Hammers have shorter hooks, this means the Sear dose not need to rise up as high to clear the hooks to drop the Hammer. This reduces the SA Trigger creep. Shortening the Hammer hooks of a factory Hammer causes Hammer follow, so the aftermarket Hammers have an altered geometry to make up for this side effect. This altered geometry is what throws the Safety Lever out of wack. Then the Adjustable Sear or Hand fitting the safety surfaces allow you to regain Safety Lever function.

   So, the Hammer hook height is the main contributor to SA Trigger creep. Spring weight, break in/polishing and tolerance stacking within the lock work are secondary contributors.

I forgot to mention this in the previous post. Glad to hear that you got all of the parts in ok. Working on CZs can be allot of fun.

[pcar157]

As always, Tok36 thanks so very much. Always a wealth of knowledge and very helpful.

[smallbroken]

    Thank you again for all your help, I decided to take the apart the gun again and do some more light polishing. Decided to show you my reset compared to my glock trigger that I tuned and p10s. It is still very far.

https://youtu.be/ByLOUoakC3s

Trying to get my reset to something like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgZHWugTK7I&ab_channel=MrDucatiti

and another

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xJA1Eq2kJc&ab_channel=Capt.BenGeroy

This 2nd vid: "I've replaced the hammer, sear, trigger, and trigger pin. I've converted to single action only, and deleted the firing pin safety."

From the looks of both vid, looks like they both have the sear and hammer...Looks like i need those to get what I want.. I already set my overtravel screw as much as I could.

First vid looks like he has the race hammer and the 2nd has the production comp hammer

[smallbroken]

   I called cgw to confirm if the race/comp hammer will help shorten my reset and it will, Thanks to Thomas I think was his name.
The adjustable sear and hammer is the only thing i'm missing from those videos I linked. The cuts on the stock hammer are too deep. Now I really need to get the race hammer lol.
I've had my glock trigger running just below 3lbs with instant reset, so the long reset on the sp01 was really eating me up.

Thank you again Tok36 for all your help with detailed responses!

[Tok36]

Good deal, let us know how it goes, we all learn from this stuff.

[smallbroken]

I completely forgot to post an update. Got the race hammer and adjustable sear..and yeh..it was what I needed. Barely any pretravel, super short reset compared to the stock hammer.
Totally worth the money. Put in a 13# recoil spring too.
It is super hard not to waste ammo because it is so fun to shoot. Tested double/triple taps at 5 yards and they were on top or just barely touching each other kind of grouping.

Also put in a 11.5# hammer spring, trigger pull weight from where i place my finger is 2lb 4oz. I try to place my finger lower cuz it's a consistent 2lb pull. Have not encountered any light strikes with the 100rnd federal brass and aluminum I had lying around.

[Tok36]

Glad to hear that the tuning went well. Thank you for the follow up.

[melsauto]

   You are not missing anything to convert to SAO. A secondary asset of the SRS kit is the Extended Firing Pin and Reduced Power FP retrun spring that are included. They facilitate primer ignition as you reduce the Hammer Spring weight to obtain a lighter pull weight. As well as the improved Firing Pin Retaining Pin and the FPB Plunger Spring.

If you do not get the SRS kit, i would add in an improved CGW Firing Pin Retaining Pin. The factory FPRP is a weak point. This pin in included in the SRS kit.
61100 Firing Pin Retaining Pin (A 3mm or smaller punch is required for removing this pin)
https://cajungunworks.com/product/61100-tempered-spring-steel-firing-pin-retaining-pin/

For a 3lb SA trigger pull, an after market Hammer may be required. As you reduce the SA pull weight with the factory Hammer, at some point things start to feel real mushy. All of the springs, the Hammer and polishing, contribute to the trigger pull weight.

What do the screws on a 6 SAO Single Action Aluminum Trigger do. Does the pre travel screw lift the trigger bar . The reason I ask is screws on mounted on the trigger.

I have seen 2 good videos, I wish you had some too.

https://youtu.be/6cpZ8sEuBM8

https://youtu.be/Go5ypbT2uAg

[Tok36]

What do the screws on a 6 SAO Single Action Aluminum Trigger do. Does the pre travel screw lift the trigger bar . The reason I ask is screws on mounted on the trigger.

I have seen 2 good videos, I wish you had some too.

   The set screws in a Single Action Only Trigger simply limit the forward and rearward Trigger travel. In a CZ 75 variant pistol, the Trigger is directly pinned to the Trigger Bar so the set screws limit the Trigger Bar travel along with the Trigger.

The Trigger Bar is pushed upward at all times by the Trigger Bar Spring applying upward tension on the Trigger Bar.

[mkd]

smallbroken,     i have a p-01 and an sp-01 safety model that i installed CGW pro pkgs in. one i did 10 yrs ago and the other just a year ago. i put ring hammers in both guns, 85 c triggers in both guns, overtravel and short reset, and extended firing pins with light springs including a 13 lb hammer spring. the p-01 is 10 yrs old and about 1200 rds thru it and pulls 2 lbs 6 oz. single and 6 lbs 10 oz. double. the unfires sp-01 pulls 3 lbs .0 oz. single and 7 lbs 3 oz. double. i have a lyman digital trigger weight scale and used a 10 pull average . the stock sp-01 before any mods and cleaning off the shelf pulled 5 lbs 7 oz. single and 10 lbs 11 oz. double.