SAO conversion problems

[Dan Wesson]

Almost ready to order the needed parts; sao trigger, FTP, and sear spacer. What about schmeky's response about a short reset? Is there any part I have to order to get a short reset?

You mentioned a Sear Spacer. This spacer is used when removing the Firing Pin Block. Removing the FPB reduces the Single Action reset distance. This will eliminate the potential issue that schmeky is talking about.

If you have not already done so i would add a replacement Firing Pin Retaining Pin. You will need to drive out the factory Firing Pin Retaining Pin when you remove the Firing Pin Block Plunger and FPBP spring from the slide. The factory pin is a weak part that is prone to break.

61100 Firing Pin Retaining Pin
https://cajungunworks.com/product/61100-tempered-spring-steel-firing-pin-retaining-pin/

Excellent point-- or limit your dry firing to only doing so with a rubber bumper of some sort in place over the end of the FP to prevent hammer contact with the FP.  A piece of foam ear plug or an o-ring will work nicely.

[WNCRob]

Hummm...I've only done one conversion, so I may be a bit off, but here is what I recall.  When converting a DA/SA 75b with a safety, the objective is to get short take-up and short reset; hence the set screws on the flat trigger.  The short reset makes it impossible for the FPB to function properly. Also, there is now no use for the disconnector.  SO, removal of the disconnector and elimination of the FPB are both needed.  Also, I suggest consider installing the Pre-B sear.  To me, the downside of converting is that now there is only 1 safety device, so make sure your safety is, in fact, in the "safe" condition, and that it goes into safe condition positively, and that you can clearly tell its safe without pulling the trigger!  Personally, I'm going to get CZC's  oversized LH safety so that I can get a better purchase on the safety when engaging it.  The one from CZC is rather large, so it can be ground down to suit your requirements.

[dohc97]

 So these are all the needed parts to convert my 97B to SAO?  Thanks guys for the inputs.

[Dan Wesson]

Looks good.  That's all I used.

[dohc97]

Looks good.  That's all I used.

Parts have been ordered. Question about the set screws. I guess pre-travel screw goes in front of the trigger and over-travel screw goes in the back. How do I adjust those screws? What am I looking for as far as setting them?

[Dan Wesson]

Pretravel must always allow reset.  Over travel must always allow sear to trip. In addition, over travel must allow hammer hooks to clear the under side of the sear when the slide is cycling.

[Tok36]

   Agreed. Making things nice and tight is the goal but you want to leave a bit of extra clearance in both directions for proper long term function. As drband noted, this is especially important for the over travel set scerw. If the over travel is set too tight the top of the hammer hooks can rub on the underside of the Sear and cause premature wear to the parts. So you set it to where the hammer will drop and then ad an extra 1/4 - 1/2 scerw turn for safety.

   If you are still not sure, you can check the Hammer/Sear clearance by manually rocking the hammer back and forth with the trigger pulled, while closely inspecting the the hammer/sear area with good lighting or a flash light. Look and listen for contact as the hammer hooks rock forward under the Sear.

[Mists.Fire]

I totally forgot about this thread. The problem ended up being the sear. I got the adjustable sear and race hammer from CGW, removed the FPB and now it’s gtg.

[Lock-n-load]

Old post but this is lots cheaper than a pro package to get a good single action 97!