Thinking about reducing my P-07's trigger overtravel...

[CCWLearner]

So I have started convincing myself I should try to reduce the overtravel on my P-07 triggers.  Rather than go the route of an aftermarket trigger tapped for an overtravel screw, I was thinking of attaching something to the frame behind the trigger.  Obviously it needs to be durable.  I'm planning to do it on my spare gun I use for dry fire and see how it holds up over time before considering it on my carry pistol.

I have read a few threads around different gun forums where people were trying to do something like this using pieces of pencil erasers glued to the frames of their Glocks and having various issues with the erasers degrading or the glue not holding.  I have a pack of fluorine rubber o-rings 1.9mm thick with 9mm OD and some rubber Talon grip material laying around, that seem like they might be a good solution to the problem.

Has anyone ever tried something like this with their P-07 or P-09 in particular?  Or any other polymer-frame pistol?

[Earl Keese]

Why not just use a trigger with an overtravel screw? Seems like you're reinventing the wheel.

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

I agree with Earl. Once you get the overtravel screw properly positioned and locked in place it's a done deal and will be perfectly reliable. Trying to add blocks or shims that likely will not stay in place will not be reliable and if some failed attempt at a stop finds it's way into the action then you have affected the guns reliability and possibly caused damage as well.
CGW sells the Omega trigger with OT stop for $42 so consider what you might spend buying and trying things that may not work plus the cost of possible damage it's your call.

[CCWLearner]

Thanks for the feedback.

I am also thinking about trying the CGW trigger with the overtravel screw, but the issue with that is, I actually like the geometry of the factory trigger on my P-07's.  They used to sell P-07 factory triggers tapped for an overtravel screw, but now they only have the "old style" Omega triggers available.  I actually ordered one a year or two ago, thinking I might like the geometry better, but it felt a bit thin and rounded to me compared to the factory trigger, and I returned it without installing it for that reason.  It felt like it would probably be a good DA trigger but might negatively affect my SA pull.  I may go ahead and try it, though, since as you all said, it's the more reliable long-term solution once you get it set and thread-locked.

I do have another question about using overtravel screws like that on polymer frames, though.  Does that steel screw end up scuffing and eventually wearing an indentation in the GFN material over time, after thousands of trigger pulls?  I think I have seen third-party triggers from other vendors, for other guns, having some rubber-tipped set screws to avoid scratching the frame.  Is that an actual thing that happens?

[ViperM]

I have a M&P pro that the factory has installed a overtravel screw on the frame. They also drilled a hole on the back so you can adjust it by just removing the grip insert. 


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[Fuzzy Sights]

Using a pencil eraser or rubber plug glued to a frame was a big fad in mid 1960s for revolver shooters.  It passed because there were issues when they eventually came off and some of the glues damaged the finish and sometimes corroded the frames.  Usually best to modify the least expensive part, in this place the trigger. 

You might find a gunsmith who can drill and tap your current trigger to take a overtravel screw.

Wish you the best on your project.

JW