CZ75D Single Action trigger break improvement

[onespeedbiker]

I feel silly asking this as Im sure it's been asked many times. I just aquired a new CZ75D. I really like the gun, but I am a little spoiled my the double action trigger with my Beretta FS. The weight of the trigger pull is fine. I just not crazy about the creep prior to the trigger breaking. I'm wondering if there is anyway to improve on it. I'm not looking for a spring kit, just some possible modification to reduce the creep. If it's just the nature of the gun I will not be disappointed. I've done a bit of gunsmithing on triggers before with my 1911 and Glock so I have some idea whats involved.

[NeedCZ]

https://cajungunworks.com/product/80002-decocker-hammer/

[briang2ad]

Not sure what you need - CGW hammer is good if you want to get the CREEP OUT of the SA pull.  but your title is about DA.

[onespeedbiker]

My bad. I meant SA.

[onespeedbiker]

https://cajungunworks.com/product/80002-decocker-hammer/

Thanks for seeing past my posting error; yes I meant SA and the Cajun Trigger looks the The ticket.

[JMWalker]

If you're flexible on color, call CGW now.  They have some alternative colors/coatings on sale for $19.50.  Absolute steal.

[Lock-n-load]

Cajun hammer and old style 85 trigger and you will be very impressed by the improvement.

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

I've done a bit of gunsmithing on triggers before with my 1911 and Glock so I have some idea whats involved.

The CZ action is nothing like a 1911 or a glock. Stoning the factory sear and hammer are a no go and a recipe for failure which has been documented in many threads here. The CGW parts or even those from CZ custom are the only best way to go.

[onespeedbiker]

Thanks after ordering the Cajun Race hammer and spending some quality time with the sear box*  it resulted in a better trigger.

* I couldn't get a slave pin to work when removing the box, but fortunately it worked installing it; I also managed to loose and recover the L spring twice. Fortunately there are some good You Tube videos on the best way to but the sear box together. Most of the time was just understanding the orientation of sear, disconnector, lever and springs. Once I was reasonably sure of orientation it went pretty smooth, although I did make a mistake with the disconnector spring orientation, but I found another video that showed the correct positioning of the tab of the spring and now all is good.