CZ 75 P-01 Omega - Rust issue

[RSR]

If you sweat on the gun or the gun gets wet in any way during carry/use it needs to be properly cleaned, lubed and otherwise maintained. No super lube from anyone will protect against lack of maintenance.
I live in the heart of the rust belt it's cold and wet in winter and hot and humid in summer. My guns don't rust, my cars don't rust, my tools and equipment don't rust or corrode and it has everything to do with proper stringent care and maintenance.

For civilians perhaps this is an option, but for most folks with serious duty weapons, including concealed carry, it isn't feasible to clean and maintain in a holistic way every day.   

In no way am I saying you're lying, but excerpt below strikes me as implausible.

I live in the heart of the rust belt it's cold and wet in winter and hot and humid in summer. My [...] my cars don't rust [...] and it has everything to do with proper stringent care and maintenance.

Please tell me of your secrets related to cars.  I grew up between I70 and I80 with lots of salt on roads, blizzards, and occasional lake effect snow, and even with winter carwashes, by 20 years the floorpans had rusted through on most vehicles (and maintenance due to rusted bolts, etc., was a complete PITA). 

Now in Texas, I regularly work on and drive 30+ y/o vehicles that have never seen the coast and only rarely seen salt on the roads...  Keeping rust at bay is simply a matter of seeing it -- and then addressing it w/in a 10-15 year timespan before it becomes deeper than cosmetic...  Biggest issue we have here is peeling clearcoat and fragile, aging plastics exacerbated by high temps.

But a 30 year old vehicle in that Great Lakes state would have holes in floorboards regardless and the frame would likely only be solid if and only if it was a farm truck used during the spring to fall months...  And that assessment is first hand experience.

But always looking to learn better ways... Thanks!

[M1A4ME]

The members on the Ford Truck Forum swear by some stuff called Fluid Film (for preventing rust in the salty winter road areas.)

My buddy who lives in PA tells me about New Hampshire Oil Undercoating.  Supposed to be similar to Fluid Film.

Can't say how well any of them work.  I've lived in central VA for decades.  My earlier winter trip SUVs and trucks were destroyed by the monthly trips to WV to visit my folks.  I'm hoping the Fluid Film I spray on the bottom of my new F250 will keep that from happening to it.  I hate rust. 

But cars/trucks and guns are different.  It only takes 5 or 10 minutes a day to pull that handguns out of the holster, field strip it, wipe it off, lube it up and wipe it down with the oil rag before loading it up and putting it on the shelf for tomorrow.  It's just a habit that needs to be developed.

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

The members on the Ford Truck Forum swear by some stuff called Fluid Film (for preventing rust in the salty winter road areas.)

Here in N.E. Ohio I've seen vehicles of ALL makes literally rust to the point of breaking apart especially in the days before galvanized body panels and better paint and primers were developed. Frames would break, doors would rot off and vehicles would simply disintegrate.
I oil sprayed my vehicles in late fall every year for many years and that worked very well at stopping rust. For the past 15 years I have been using Fluid Film and this stuff is the cats tail! The stuff never dries and does not rinse away easily. During the warm weather months it will seep into all the seams and pinch welds on the body. I use an undercoating gun and spray my vehicles yearly with it undercarriage and inside all doors and body panels. I wash the cars weekly in winter and flush the undercarriage with cold water to remove any crud and salt build up. I've never had a vehicle rust, never a floor pan and never had to replace rusted brake or fuel lines.

[briang2ad]

The members on the Ford Truck Forum swear by some stuff called Fluid Film (for preventing rust in the salty winter road areas.)

Here in N.E. Ohio ...........fuel lines.

WISH I would have seen this MANY YEARS ago.  I lived in upstate NY and watched my 2 cars practically rust out.  One I sold, the other I kept and while it did not totally rust out, and I ran it 250K and 15 years, but ended up replacing the struts which rusted almost to breaking! 

[M1A4ME]

I sold my 05 Silverado almost 2 years ago.  It was the vehicle we drove to WV once a month to visit the family.

I had just under 130,000 miles on it and it was 16 years old.  In the last few months I had it I had to replace the rusted out power steering cooler.  The big U bolts that hold the axle on the leaf springs rusted so bad one of them broke (good thing there were two on each side) and finally the rear axel tube rusted through about half way between the spring perch and the differential housing.  Had replaced all the brake lines several years before.  I had calipers rust bad enough they would not longer "slide" right when the brake pads wore.  Rust in the rear fenders.  Corroded air bag sensors up front under the bumper.  Did I mention I hate rust?

The statement that Fluid Film soaks through the existing rust to get to the metal under it is true.  I gave a guy at home a left over can from my first years application to the new F250 and he started using it on stuff.  He sprayed it on an old utility trailer and said he noticed places on the frame and rims where clumps of rust had fallen off.  He started spraying it on some nasty old rusty rifles and shotguns he'd bought from someone who had abused/neglected them and he said it was amazing how much rust would come off when he wiped them down with a rag after a couple days of sitting with the Fluid Film on them. 

I sure hope it works.  I'll be pretty sad one of these days if that shiny F250 starts showing rust on the frame/axles, springs, etc.  Heck, I even sprayed the underside of all that nice aluminum bed, cab, and what I could see/get to of the front fenders and rear bumper.  As the man said, even aluminum corrodes.

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

My wife had a 2010 Chevy Cobalt (she likes small cars and I hate them) from day one I Fluid filmed the car and after 10 years it was rust free when I sold it. We had to have the from bumper cover replaced a few years earlier due to her hitting a large ground hog. The body shop owner asked me what in the hell I sprayed on the car that was so sticky and I told him what it was. He had not yet seen the stuff. The thing is that particular car is known up here to have the rocker panels rust away yet mine were as new. He was quite impressed with the performace of the product especially since he had been a warranty center for Zeibart years ago and repaired quite alot of rusty vehicles when the Zeibart failed to do it's job.

[M1A4ME]

The Zeibart place close to my dad (in WV) went out of business, too.  Dad had his (then new) 78 Chevy PU over there to have rust holes in the front fencers patched/painted twice within a couple years of having his new truck undercoated by them. 

Sometimes stuff just doesn't work out.

[RSR]

The Zeibart place close to my dad (in WV) went out of business, too.  Dad had his (then new) 78 Chevy PU over there to have rust holes in the front fencers patched/painted twice within a couple years of having his new truck undercoated by them. 

Sometimes stuff just doesn't work out.

Zeibart is basically like an asphalt bed liner, right?  Which means when it fails, it traps salt water against the metal it's supposed to protect...

I think their business model was more to get you to the 3-5 year mark when most folks replace their vehicles...

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

The Zeibart place close to my dad (in WV) went out of business, too.  Dad had his (then new) 78 Chevy PU over there to have rust holes in the front fencers patched/painted twice within a couple years of having his new truck undercoated by them. 

Sometimes stuff just doesn't work out.

Zeibart is basically like an asphalt bed liner, right?  Which means when it fails, it traps salt water against the metal it's supposed to protect...

I think their business model was more to get you to the 3-5 year mark when most folks replace their vehicles...

Zeibart is a tar like heavy coating that eventually hardens and begins to peel. Any dirt, debris, or corrosion that had already started would be covered over and the Zeibart would do nothing to stop already present corrosion but would in fact seal it in so when it presented itself again the underlying damage would be very bad. Vehicles needed to be Zeibarted BEFORE they saw any bad weather for it to have any protective effect.
There was another similar brand called Tuffcote-Dynol which was considerably better since they used Cosmoline in their formula. Of course as with Zeibart it still had to be applied before any corrosion had started. Once the gov. determined Cosmoline to be a cancer causing agent Tuffcote removed it from their formula and they actually dissappeared before Zeibart.
One of the other glaring drawbacks to both products is they don't "creep" once applied so you get a sealed in airspace in door seams and pinchwelds and also around any fluid lines which just helps corrosion start in those areas.
There were also some independent shops that would apply pure Cosmoline but even that would not stop any pre-existing corrosion. Oil spray was the best alternative and the products on the market today like Fluid Film will soak into existing corossion and stop it.