Disconnectors

[parastoo]

Hi,
    Can someone explain to me the the uses for the various disconnectors ; T1 , T2 , T3 , Hybrid disco? I've got a stainless 75B on which I've just installed a race hammer and adjustable sear and the short reset lifter arm to go along with the Ultralite kit . While the I now have a nice crisp break with the hammer the reset seems to be about the same so I'm wondering if I need a different  disconnector.
                   Thanks, 
                              Mark

[Tok36]

   The disconector can not change the Single Action reset point. It can change the amount of SA pre-travel. The amount of SA pre-travel dictates the at rest SA trigger position. The SA reset distance can be reduced with the Short Reset Kit in a FPB CZ, the lifter arm in this kit reduces SA reset distance. In a CZ Shadow and other non Firing Pin Block CZ 75 variants the SA reset distance is at a minimum in factory configuration. To be clear, the CZ 75 variant FPB system requires a bit more SA trigger travel to function. This means that there is a limit to the amount that you can reduce the SA reset distance and SA pre-travel in a CZ with its FPB intact.

   The CGW T-1 Disco is generally drop in for CZ Shadow and other non Firing Pin Block CZ 75 variants. Hand fitting may be required in some pistols.

   The CGW T-2 Disco is designed to work with the CGW Short Reset Kit in FPB equipt CZ 75 variants. The T-2 requires the CGW low lift FPB Lifter Arm and Extended Firing Pin to work.

   The CGW T-3 Disco is for use in non Firing Pin Block CZ 75 variants. This disconector is oversized and generally requires hand fitting to a specific non Firing Pin Block CZ pistol. It allows for the absolute minimum SA pre-travel distance.

   The CGW Hybrid Disco is a modified T-2 disco designed for use with the CGW Double Action Reach Reduction Kit. This disco is generally acquired as part of the RRK kit because it includes a modified trigger with a DA pre-travel set scerw.

   For your CZ 75 B with the parts that you have installed a T-2 disco will reduce the SA pre-travel. If you had the Reach Reduction kit installed you would need the Hybrid disco.

Update Note: Cajun Gun Works has updated their Disconnector line up. Most of the above information is no longer valid. The descriptions on the CGW website detail the 4 currently available CZ 75 variant CGW Disconnectors.
CGW Disconnectors: https://cajungunworks.com/?s=Disconnector&post_type=product

[parastoo]

Hi,
    And thanks. I've read that removing the FPB reduces the reset distance. So how does it do that?
Thanks,
           Mark

[Tok36]

   The CZ 75 variant FPB design requires a bit more trigger travel to function. In a CZ B model (FPB pistol) two tings need to reset, the sear and the FPB Lifter Arm. As you let the trigger out in SA the Sear resets first then the FPB resets a bit further out. In a Shadow (non FPB pistol) only the sear needs to reset because the Lifter Arm is removed from the equation. To clarify, in a CZ B model (FPB pistol) during normal function there is only one real reset, the presence of the FPB Lifter moves the reset point further forward as you let the trigger out in SA. The Sear reset is passed over and the pistol resets at the FPB lifter instead. After the pistol resets and you pull the trigger in SA, as the trigger moves rearward the Trigger Bar picks up the FPB Lifter fist then the Sear and actuates both of them as you pull through the SA to drop the hammer.

   So you can tune and polish and tweak a CZ B model and make the FPB parts almost unnoticeable while pulling the trigger but you can not obtain the absolute minimum reset distance with the FPB intact. Having a minimum reset distance then allows you to minimize the SA pre-travel with an oversized disconector.

[parastoo]

Hi,
    So just to make sure I reinstalled the OEM lifter arm to check the from factory reset and indeed, the short lifter arm does shorten the reset. I then removed the FPB and spring and there was a further reduction in the reset. What I assume is the SA pretravel was shortened, too. I wanted to ask about something I noticed when I was fooling around with all this. I always thought that the reset was reached when you heard the click but if I released the trigger ever so slowly I noticed that the trigger would reach a point where you could trip the hammer before you reached the click position.
This is with the lifter arms installed. Why is that? And also what makes the clicking sound? What's happening?

Thanks,
            Mark

[Tok36]

   The Trigger Bar is the part that is connected to the trigger, it is also the part that pushes on the lower leg of the FPB Lifter Arm and the lower leg of the Sear when you pull the trigger. The TB is pushed upward by the Trigger Bar Spring on each side of the TB. The two sides of the TBS need their tension on the TB to be set correctly. If one side or the other has its tension set too high or too low it can cause a false reset/double reset. In a Firing Pin Block CZ 75 variant, when the TBS is adjusted correctly as you let the trigger out is Single Action the TB should pass over the sear leg and reset at the FPB Lifter Arm.

   If you are pointing the pistol as if you were shooting it the Sear leg is on the Left side and the FPB Lifter leg is on the Right. They are both sticking out of the bottem of the Sear Cage. If the TBS tension is set too high and pushing up on the TB with too much force it can pick up the sear leg when it should not. The Trigger Bar Spring tension can be adjusted by bending each leg of the spring up or down.

   The reset sound that you hear in Single Action (Hammer fully cocked back) as you let the trigger out is the trigger bar kicking up once the TB has moved forward enough to clear the FPB Lifter Arm (or the Sear in a Non FPB CZ). The reset sound that you hear in Double Action (Hammer down or at Half cock) as you let the trigger out is the TB kicking up in front of the disconector.

Listed below is the process for checking and adjusting the Trigger Bar Spring up tension so that it is balanced correctly for proper function.

1. Remove the slide

2. Cock the hammer in SA

3. Push the trigger bar down all the way, then pull the trigger all the way back, then release the trigger bar but keep the trigger pulled back.

4. The hammer should now be fully cocked in SA and you should be holding the trigger all the way back.

5. SLOWLY let the trigger go forward and watch the 2 humps in the trigger bar - one will jump up sooner than the other (Viewed from the rear).

6. The one that jumps up first has to much "up" tension on the trigger bar support spring (#34)

7. Bend the #34 down at little at a time until both sides of the trigger bar pop up at the same time.
 

[Crawl]

Leaving a comment so that I can find this easier. Thank you.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

[Lock-n-load]

Thinking of trying to use a modified disconector to set a single action trigger pre travel in a sp01 shadow custom. With a pre b disconector .Can’t find much info on which disconector to use or which wing to grind off.Which is the best disconector a bre b or  Would a Cajun one work better t5 or t6.and not have to grind off a wing.or is it a better idea and just use a 5sao trigger with screws. ..Also would like to do the same with a stock shadow 2 . I have a curved czub SAOtrigger with both screws for that to install. I’ve read some have done this to eliminate the pre travel screw and get a really nice reset. But can’t find much info on how it’s done.

[Tok36]

Unless you intend on using a DA/SA Trigger, the set screw in an SAO Trigger is the way to go. If the screw wont stay put, there are options to remedy the issue.

For a DA/SA configuration or if you want to go SAO while using a DA/SA Trigger, currently the CGW T5 is available. This appears to be drop in for most CZs. Some fitting may be required in some CZs. As far as cutting off the disco wings, this is only necessary with a SAO configuration using a DA/SA Trigger. In this case you cut both wings off and leave only the hook. This configuration is quite uncommon from what i have seen.

[Lock-n-load]

Thanks Tok, I’ve installed several SAO triggers with the screws In Shadows and just remove disconector and adjusted the screws. Works well..Read somewhere that you could do the same by fitting a disconector with a SAO trigger and eliminate the need for the screws.and eliminate the pre travel with the disconector. (Trying to find that post .). maybe they were actually fitting a regular trigger and not a SAO trigger.

[Tok36]

You can still use a Disco to limit the SA pre-travel with an SAO Trigger. I am not sure what the motivation for doing so would be. Maybe it was for self defense, some folks do not like the set screws for SD/HD. I figure for SD/HD, if the screws are an issue, just do not use them. The difference is not that substantial.