hammer and trigger only

[Wildcat-TX]

i have a pcr and a tight budget.

can i add the adjustable trigger and the race hammer together to get rid of some pre/over travel?

[Wildcat-TX]

i have already installed the floating trigger pin. new fprp. lighter fp spring. lighter fp blocker spring and lighter hammer spring. also cleaned up some surfaces with 1500 grit paper.

[SoCal]

I think that should work. Have you done all the polishing suggested in the stickies?

[Wildcat-TX]

i haven’t polished to a mirror shine but i lightly sanded the trigger bar, underside of sear cage and a few other easily reached spots with 1500 grit paper. smoothed up all the pins too. next time i have it apart i will actually polish the surfaces.

mine was in awesome shape compared to some of the pics ive seen of other cz internals.

[Earl Keese]

A pre-travel screw won't affect trigger position when shooting from the half-cock hammer position.

[tdogg]

If money was that tight but you really wanted to tune it up, I'd opt for the remaining parts to the SRS-2 kit, a type 2 disconnector, and the trigger.  You will clean up the pre/over travel with the SRS and disconnector in both DA and SA.  It won't be as crisp as a race hammer but the feel will be night and day better.  If you call CGW they can piece what you need together if you tell them what you already have.

Make sure you add a hammer pin and an extra lifter spring to the order.  You can thank me later .

Cheers,
Toby

[Vhanflsanchl]

I have the same question for my stock P-01. Only bought the CGW race hammer which hasn't delivered yet. Do I need to accommodate it with additional parts/springs? Or can I install just the hammer and leave the rest stock? Also will there still be noticeable gains in pull weight? I like the heavy DA for appendix carry. If anything I'd only like to reduce the SA if thats even possible.

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

You will have a much more crisp sa pull but it will not improve in any other area without additional parts. DA pull will remain the same. You should also buy the slave pin CGW sells for removing the sear cage and a couple extra firing pin block lifter springs. If you've never done one of these you will soon understand why you'll want those parts.

[Vhanflsanchl]

Thank you. Yes I only have the race hammer and just wanted to make sure I wouldn't encounter any malfunctions without additional parts. I'm slowly getting parts individually that will end with the complete pro package once complete.
Another concern is whether I need to buy the extended firing pin once I install the blue 13# main spring. Or if I'm clear to run my stock firing pin with it. I don't want to worry about what ammo to buy and want this P01 to cycle reliably. I heard anything under 13# requires the extended fpl bit I'm not sure if thats true.
Lastly, I noticed MCarbo has a $25 spring kit that includes a sear spring which CGW kit does not include. I don't see what the point is since it doesn't seem to be reduced power. Thanks again!

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

You are supposed to be able to run the 13lb spring with the standard firing pin but I personally won't run anything less than 15lb on the hammer spring as I consider all my CZ's to be defensive pistols. If you are moving toward the complete pro package it's best to either buy it now or wait till you can afford it. Piecing the gun together in stages may cause more issues than you want especially if your not used to dealing with the CZ action.
I have no experience with the Carbo spring kits, others here do and seem to like them. I generally add the CGW Pro Package kits to my CZ's so buying springs elsewhere makes no sense. I've gotten all 5 of my current CZ's to have the same trigger feel doing it this way. I do keep extra springs on hand for my CZ's but for what it's worth I've never had a sear spring failure in any of them and 2 of them have north of 25,000 on the originals.

[Vhanflsanchl]

Thank you for the advice. I ordered the slave pin for the sear and feel pretty confident installing the hammer. I'm really just aiming towards getting rid of the SA creep so hopefully this makes a difference. There are so many combinations of different springs my problem is not knowing what setup is compatible and what's not. I guess just going with a full kit makes this easier and less risky bit I don't have those funds right now so I'm just doing parts individually. I'll reply with the outcome after I install the hammer once delivered tomorrow. Very curious to see how much of a difference it makes to only have the CGW hammer with no other internal upgrades. Thanks again!

[mkd]

the hammer will eliminate any rise and rearward motion of the hammer as the trigger is squeazed. in essence a straight drop of the hammer off the sear. i did the mods as you are suggesting and started with the ring hammer and a 13 lb hammer spring.10 yrs later i did the 85 c trigger,short reset kit, extended firing pin and the light spring pkg. when i was all done i had the complete kit .

[Vhanflsanchl]

Well I got the hammer installed no problem. Removing the sear cage was a piece of cake and I was really worried about that. The trigger is completely different now in a great way. There's still alot of take-up but once it touches the wall, there is 0 creep and a nice clean break. Night and day.
On the other hand the most ridiculous and nerve wracking part is installing the Dawson tritium rear sight. Description says it requires no machining but it does not fit my dovetail at all. Turned my belt sander upside down while holding the sight and I relieved the bottom some where it seats in the slide dovetail. I took it down as far as it will go before they become too short and wont clear the top of the slide. I even got aggravated and was willing to call it a loss and took a framing hammer with a nylon punch to it. Doesn't budge past halfway even while literally banging on it. Should have went with the TFX but I didn't care for the profile of them.
Anyway thanks again for the advice and yes, the race hammer alone in my stock P-01 makes a completely different trigger. It's great.

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

As far as creep and take up go the adjustable trigger helps MARGINALLY with that. Being a da/sa design you can only lessen it slightly but 75% of it will always remain. The sight needs to be fit to the dovetail and that is just the nature of the beast. Often some mild stoning will be required on the slants of the sight as well as the bottom side. There is no such thing as "no machining" or "drop in" no matter what anyone tells you. Manufacturing variances dictate that often some or alot of fitting will be required. I personally prefer sights that I can fit and have them tight.