Optic plate recommendations for Shadow 2 Optic Ready?

[ghx1138]

I recently acquired a S2 OR.  I ordered the CZ factory plate from CZ-parts, and it came quickly.

I've mounted plates/optics on a couple of Glocks and a Canik, but just to make sure there wasn't anything peculiar to the S2, I googled some instructions on mounting for the S2.  I came across a few posts where screws had been sheared on the factory plates.  On Glocks, a lot of folks think the factory MOS plates are much more prone to screw shearing than on several aftermarket plates, and I'm wondering if that thinking is also prevalent for CZ.

I'd appreciate any opinions on whether the CZ factory plates are OK.  Or should I go with an aftermarket plate?  And if so, which brand?

[Wobbly]

Welcome from Georgia.

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[Chevron Guy]

Got the same plate from CZ Parts. My research said go with the steel plate. Cleaned everything really well, screws, screw holes, etc. Glued with Loctite Blue. 3- 400 rounds, no problems so far....

[ghx1138]

Got the same plate from CZ Parts. My research said go with the steel plate. Cleaned everything really well, screws, screw holes, etc. Glued with Loctite Blue. 3- 400 rounds, no problems so far....

After more research, it looks like those with screw failures were after several thousand rounds (10K plus).  I guess the key may be to change the screws every few thousand rounds, no matter which plate is used.

I'll probably go with the factory plate I already have.  Thanks for replying.

[ghx1138]

Welcome from Georgia.

Please take a few moments to familiarize yourself with all the sticky posts in the 'New Members' section. Together with the Help Topics in the 'Important Information' or 'FAQ' sub-section, these include 'how tos' such as 'how to' post pictures on the forum.

Thanks.

[drnls]

If any vendor had one in stock a recommendation could be made but...

[Born2vette]

If any vendor had one in stock a recommendation could be made but...

CZ parts still has a decent selection

https://www.cz-parts.com/cz-shadow-2-optics-ready-red-dot-plates

[Auslander]

If any vendor had one in stock a recommendation could be made but...

No doubt. CZ makes stuff in batches and I think the Colt deal killed any chance at US production. Kinda like finding a slide stop. Buy when you can to stock spares.

Ben Stoeger has a selection of plates in stock. Kinda depends on what optic you are fitting. Shadow 2 and P10’s can use same plate but are blended a little different.

CZ Custom is also a good source. They have some that are proprietary to their slide cuts, but they also have some for factory cuts. Again, stock depends on optic choice.

Screws are going to sheer off at some point, regardless of make which is why I like CZC’s plate design. Course that doesn’t keep my optic screws from coming loose every 2000 rounds or so, regardless of type of thread-lock.


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[PFran42]

I just went through this with my new S2OR. I wanted all steel + rear iron built in with a low co-witness. Based on a lot of research, I went with Impact Machine and I also picked up a matched blacked out rear serrated front sight. Everything went together very well and I am extremely happy with the low height of the co-witness. The only thing I wish it had is serrations on the rear face of the rear sight.

Pro tip:

When mounting any pistol optic, use acetone and a pipe cleaner to clean all oil and debris from the screw holes on the slide and mounting plate. Next, dampen a small spot on a clean lint free rag with acetone and then firmly pinch the mounting screws in the dampened rag while turning them using a hex key or Torx driver. Finally, order a fine point oil based paint pen from Amazon and mark a line going from the top of screw head to the optic's body (on both screws). Now that I have over 10 pistols with red dots, I've seen a few $650 optics fly off due to me thinking that just a drop of loctite was good enough.

[ghx1138]

I just went through this with my new S2OR. I wanted all steel + rear iron built in with a low co-witness. Based on a lot of research, I went with Impact Machine and I also picked up a matched blacked out rear serrated front sight. Everything went together very well and I am extremely happy with the low height of the co-witness. The only thing I wish it had is serrations on the rear face of the rear sight.

Pro tip:

When mounting any pistol optic, use acetone and a pipe cleaner to clean all oil and debris from the screw holes on the slide and mounting plate. Next, dampen a small spot on a clean lint free rag with acetone and then firmly pinch the mounting screws in the dampened rag while turning them using a hex key or Torx driver. Finally, order a fine point oil based paint pen from Amazon and mark a line going from the top of screw head to the optic's body (on both screws). Now that I have over 10 pistols with red dots, I've seen a few $650 optics fly off due to me thinking that just a drop of loctite was good enough.

Thanks for the recommendation on the Impact plate and especially for prepping the screws.  Good info.

[Zanotti]

Having just gone through this, I give the following observations:

I bought two plates, one aluminum and one steel.  The aluminum one arrived first, so I installed it. It was completely flat in top profile, had the correct bottom design to marry to the gun, and had a slight cut out where the ejection port is.  Added a Holosun 507Comp and all is well.

The second one arrived much later, but it was nicer - all steel, and matching profile to the CZ top design, and a deeper cut out for the ejection port.

Maybe 2000 rounds later, I happen to check the optic and find it just slightly loose - at the attach point from the plate to the gun.  So, not really liking the design of the flat topped plate, I moved to the steel. Did all the cleaning, alcohol wash, and locktite prep, the steel is operating fine after maybe 500 rounds.

If this is too cryptic I will add photos, but I do recommend the CZ Parts original design steel plate. It was sold out when I ordered, but they accepted my order and it shipped in good time.  Packaged well from Czech Republic, no problem with shipping or receiving.

[ghx1138]

Having just gone through this, I give the following observations:

I bought two plates, one aluminum and one steel.  The aluminum one arrived first, so I installed it. It was completely flat in top profile, had the correct bottom design to marry to the gun, and had a slight cut out where the ejection port is.  Added a Holosun 507Comp and all is well.

The second one arrived much later, but it was nicer - all steel, and matching profile to the CZ top design, and a deeper cut out for the ejection port.

Maybe 2000 rounds later, I happen to check the optic and find it just slightly loose - at the attach point from the plate to the gun.  So, not really liking the design of the flat topped plate, I moved to the steel. Did all the cleaning, alcohol wash, and locktite prep, the steel is operating fine after maybe 500 rounds.

If this is too cryptic I will add photos, but I do recommend the CZ Parts original design steel plate. It was sold out when I ordered, but they accepted my order and it shipped in good time.  Packaged well from Czech Republic, no problem with shipping or receiving.

Good notes.  Thanks.

I had originally ordered the CZ factory plate, but when it came and I fitted it to the slide, there was a small amount of forward/backward movement.  This is without the mounting screws installed, but it bothered me nonetheless.  So I ordered a steel plate from Impact Machine.  It also has the cutout, and the amount of play in the Impact plate (without the mounting screws) was almost imperceptible.  Whereas I could see the CZ factory plate move slightly, it seemed like I could feel the Impact plate move a tiny bit, but I couldn't see it visually.

I followed the recommendations above and have mounted the Impact plate but have yet to test it.  I'm not anticipating any problems (fingers crossed).

Thanks, all, for the advice given here.