Anyone use Dykem to mark their cases?

[BigK]

They may be easier (not sure, haven't tried yet), but I'm not sure Sharpies are actually cheaper. The big ol fat ones with a nice chisel point are around $4 each.

Right now you can get a 32 oz jug of red or blue layout fluid from ENCO (http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMK3?PMK0NO=1308767) for only $10.29 (online price). Plus, there's a coupon code (NCCMAR) on RetailMeNot.com which gets you free shipping on a $25 order.

I haven't tried it yet, but I just put in an order to Enco for a 32 oz jug of each color and a 2 oz bottle of each (just to get the nice felt tip applicators and refillable bottles). It came out to just under $28 total.

For that price I could get 7 or 8 big sharpies and there's no way they'd outlast 64 oz of Dykem.

I hope it works out, will let you know how it holds up from tumbling to shooting.


BigK

[1SOW]

I have friends that use it.  They like it.  It works.

I shoot 9mm mostly, so I only use sharpies to mark the cases I "DON'T want back".

[Wobbly]

I've used Dykem in the past, and it appeals to me. Thinking the main appeals would be....

? It would color the entire rear of the case, vs. just a small slash mark. Therefore easier to spot your own at a match.
? It would fill all the crevices around the primer so there's no way it wouldn't stay marked.
? Dyken comes in numerous colors. I might choose pink or green as another differentiator. (Of course green doesn't work if your match areas are grassy. If you shoot near San Francisco, someone is probably already using pink.    )

Downsides might be...

? Maybe not quite as economical application wise, by using the cotton ball applicator.  (I assume you're not talking about spray.)
? Might turn your plastic ammo boxes into a mess after 10 applications, with all the Dykem drips and splatters.
? If Dykem did drip onto the plastic ammo box, how would the plastic respond?
? I stopped using it because my 4oz can dried up. Using up an entire 32oz can might take some doing. Your best bet might be refilling the small can from the big. That limits the number of times the big can is opened.

 

[BigK]

I'm hoping to chuck a bore mop into a slow drill and use it to pick up and spin the case. I'll hold a small 2 oz bottle with the felt tip against the spinning shell near the rear. I figure a pick or something in the hand holding the bottle will let me knock the striped brass off the mop.

I bought layout fluid, which only comes in blue and red. With the colors you are mentioning, you must have used the opaque or transparent stain. I'm worried now that the layout fluid will rub off too easy.

[Clint007]

Never heard of this, I tried a sharpie but it was too tedious or me to mark the cases circumferentially.  Is there a fast en masse way to mark cases using this dykem product?

C

[painter]

Never heard of this, I tried a sharpie but it was too tedious or me to mark the cases circumferentially.  Is there a fast en masse way to mark cases using this dykem product?

C

If I was to do it, and I never have...

I would use a foam brush and pat the bottoms of the cases in a loading tray after the round was finished, or perhaps on primed cases.

[1SOW]

Is there a fast en masse way to mark cases using this dykem product?

It may depend where you put your loaded cartridges as the come off the progressive Dillon press or how you carry them to the range.  If 'both' are in a simple box of some kind, I don't see an easy answer.  (My sone uses the empty cardboard 1000rd bullet boxes to carry ammo to the range.)
If you use cartridge boxes at the range, then something similar to what  "painter" said should work.

There once was a company that sold "muticolor"-stripe applicators that was in favor with some  (38 Super comes to mind);  but they must have missed the gov't give-aways, they folded.

[BigK]

Never heard of this, I tried a sharpie but it was too tedious or me to mark the cases circumferentially.  Is there a fast en masse way to mark cases using this dykem product?

C

I intended to use a slow cordless drill with a bore mop chucked in place to pick up the shells and turn them while a put a stripe near and in the rim. 

[Wobbly]

You can get ammo boxes from Dillon and other places for $1.10 each. After making your run of ammo, you'd set each cartridge in the case, nose down. That's the best way to inspect primer seating and the OAL on any batch of ammo. Once that inspection is complete, you'd swipe all 50 or 100 cartridges with a couple of simple swipes from a Sharpie or Dykem swab. In that way the marking would add only 15-20 seconds to the total reloading time.



IMHO, if you're not using ammo boxes of some shape or description (whether they be recycled factory boxes or whatever) then you're missing an important inspection step anyway. And the rows of 10 come in very handy at competitions where you can only load 10 rounds per mag. They also simplify load testing, as in the photo above.

 

[BigK]

I agree about using ammo boxes, I have/use MTM cases mostly. Unfortunately, I hoped to stripe the sides of the brass, since they'll be laying on their side at the range when i pick them up. I tried a bright red sharpie on the head this weekend and still couldn't tell mine from the others.

The red headstamps DID make sorting easier once I got home.

[BigK]

UPDATE:

Turns out, spinning the cases while applying the stain didn't work. When the dyed brass falls onto my drying mat, whatever it touches takes the stain off the brass.

I tumbled and cleaned the brass well with denatured alcohol and put it in a gallon-sized Ziploc. Splashing in about .5 to .75 oz of dye and shaking the bag worked better than anything else I tried.

The problem is there's still splotchy areas on the brass (often an entire side of a case) that won't "take" the dye. It looks/acts like it's oily, but the alcohol should've fixed that.

Also, the dye DOES come off during tumbling, but not all of it. Applying more will only lead to build-up that could make the brass too thick to be usable. So, I had to clean the brass with alcohol after tumbling to apply more dye, which I WON'T do after each use (too much fuss).

All-in-all, I'm NOT considering the Dykem idea a complete bust. It works as well as a Sharpie, but is messy. I'll just use it to mark the headstamp to make my sorting easier and go back to hoping I find it all before someone else sweeps it up at the range.

[Twmaster]

Dykem is layout fluid. It's not intended to be permanent. I use it in my workshop. (Love the smell!)

I usually paint the primers in my cases with different color sharpies to differentiate them.

There are not too many ways I can think of that you can permanently color brass.

[DenStinett]

I?ve used ?Cheap? Fingernail Polish from the $0.99 or Dollar Store to backfill the Headstamp on Cases for different loads / uses?i.e. a .357 or .44Mag loaded  specifically for Rifle not Revolver use

[Wobbly]

There are not too many ways I can think of that you can permanently color your brass.

You could get a "tramp stamp" tattoo.

Oh, my bad. You said BRass. 

[Twmaster]

If you move over a little there will be plenty of room here in the gutter for both of us...