Author Topic: Firing Pin Replacement procedure  (Read 3727 times)

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Offline mr.revolverguy

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Firing Pin Replacement procedure
« on: September 25, 2011, 09:54:35 AM »
I have used the search but can't seem to find what I am looking for. I purchased the wolff 16lb spring set but can't seem to find instructions for replacing the firing pin spring. I thought I would never run into something more difficult than 3rd generation S&W semi auto's but the 97B has me stumped. I wish it was as easy on the 1911. The reason I am looking to replace is so that I can shoot the same hardball ammo in my 1911's and Sig 220. The sig 220 comes with a 20lb spring and runs smoothly with w231 5.5gr of 230gr Berry's. When I shoot this load in the CZ97B the slide seems to slam back harder than I would like.

Offline mr.revolverguy

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Re: Firing Pin Replacement procedure
« Reply #1 on: September 25, 2011, 11:05:19 AM »
I found this in the FAQ section. I have no idea why it didn't come up in my search. I have already replaced it.

Offline mr.revolverguy

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Re: Firing Pin Replacement procedure
« Reply #2 on: September 25, 2011, 04:37:02 PM »
Oh my I just got back from the range sooooooooo sweet. I should have replaced the recoil and firing pin spring a long time ago the 16# spring is much better. No problems at all with my reloads 230gr ball berry's with 5.0-5.3 w231.

Offline schmeky

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Re: Firing Pin Replacement procedure
« Reply #3 on: September 25, 2011, 08:05:57 PM »
I run 5.0 231 pushing a hard cast H&G 200 SWC.  My 97 has never mis-fed one of these in thousands and thousands of rounds. 

Offline mr.revolverguy

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Re: Firing Pin Replacement procedure
« Reply #4 on: September 25, 2011, 09:10:00 PM »
It never missed with the original 13# spring I could just feel the slide slam to the rear during recoil. Now with the 16# spring much more easier I feel on the slide during recoil and also quicker to return to target for me. I shot 100 rounds today after the replacement and felt double taps were much easier.

Offline schmeky

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Re: Firing Pin Replacement procedure
« Reply #5 on: September 25, 2011, 09:29:02 PM »
Mr.revolverguy,

That's a lot of spring for a 97, especially with the mild load you're running, in fact, that spring is run occassionally with 45 Super loads.  To much recoil spring will kill the slide stop prematurely.

Offline mr.revolverguy

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Re: Firing Pin Replacement procedure
« Reply #6 on: September 26, 2011, 06:07:32 AM »
Thank you for the info I will definitely keep an eye out. I know when I use factory ammo it just seemed the slide was slamming to the rear. WIth my light reloads it worked fine with 230gr ball and 4.7gr of W231. My Sig 220ST would not cycle with the 4.7gr so to keep things simple I kept bumping up the charge until I got to 5.1gr and things worked beautifully in every 45 I own. I would not call 5.1 light as Hodgdon list max load at 5.3 and my chrono reads at 830FPS.

Schmeky you are brilliant with the CZ97 so I definitely believe you, but this leaves me with two options.

Reload two different lots of ammo 4.7gr for the CZ97B and switch back to the 13# spring set and reload 5.1 for my Sig 220ST and my 1911's.

Or

Reload 5.1gr for everything and keep a very close eye on the slide stop and possibly order an extra slide stop.

The CZ97B is just a range gun for me and though it is my favorite auto I might shoot about 1000 rounds a year through it as I am mainly a revolver guy.

What do you think?

Offline schmeky

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Re: Firing Pin Replacement procedure
« Reply #7 on: September 26, 2011, 08:22:06 AM »
At 1K rounds a year through the 97, I wouldn't worry about it.  Keep an eye on the 97 SS for peening.

Is changing the recoil spring in the Sig and your 1911's an option?  Lighter loads are easier on everything as you well know. 

BTW, I love my Sig P-220 and have many 1911's.

Lastly, don't think of the 97's recoil principles in the same light as a 1911.  The 97's slide is diverted down into the frame barrel bed, where around 85-90% of the recoil inertia is transferred.  The slide is slowed during this process, but not anything the typical shooter can discern.  The remaining 10-15% of the recoil inertia is arrested by the slide frame interface.  The 10-15% is pretty constant, but obviously can be affected by hotter rounds and stronger springs.  The 97's slide and frame are designed to handle this loading practically indefinitely.   

Return to battery should be partially absorbed by the stripping and chambering the new round, slowing the slide (somewhat), and the remaining slide energy is used to raise the barrel on the SS and lock the action.  The SS pin is strong, but a to heavy recoil spring artificially loads the SS pin.

1911 is significantly different.
« Last Edit: September 26, 2011, 08:36:11 AM by schmeky »

Offline DDeslaur

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Thanks for the information Schmeky!
I don't have my 97B yet but was hopping it would feed SWC's in 200 and 185 gr. These are the loads that I prefer as they're accurate and easier on the gun.


Offline DDeslaur

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Re: Firing Pin Replacement procedure
« Reply #9 on: June 14, 2012, 07:31:47 PM »
@ Schemky

To much recoil spring will kill the slide stop prematurely.

Could you please explain that statement as i always thought that weaker springs and heavy loads sent the slide bashing into the frame and slide stop which could cause damage.
 
Dave

Offline NoJoy

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Re: Firing Pin Replacement procedure
« Reply #10 on: June 15, 2012, 02:20:49 AM »
Mr.revolverguy,

That's a lot of spring for a 97, especially with the mild load you're running, in fact, that spring is run occassionally with 45 Super loads.  To much recoil spring will kill the slide stop prematurely.

schmeky what do you recomend shooting 45 Super (say about a thousand rounds a year). 18 or 20lb recoil spring?  Is the 20lb too much for this load?  Shooting normal pressure I would go back to 13 or 16lb recoil spring.  Thx.

Offline schmeky

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Re: Firing Pin Replacement procedure
« Reply #11 on: June 15, 2012, 09:23:53 AM »
On the Super recoil spring, your load will tell you what spring to run, just watch your ejection distance, but keep in mind, the Super may send a case further than optimal.  If you can keep your empty cases landing <10' away, this is spring you would want to run.  I would limit the Super rounds to getting a POA/POI, checking for reliable feeding and function, and then using them for self defense only.

I suggest you try some +P .45 ACP, not a Super, but pretty darn stout and easier to tune your 97 for.

On the slide stop, I'm not that concerned with arresting the rearward travel of the slide since there is a generous abutement for the slide/frame stop area.  So a recoil spring selection can be pretty forgiving.  However, what stops the forward motion is the slide stop pin, which is no where near as generous, nor forgiving as the frame/slide.  The slide is decelerated by stripping the next round from the mag, and is further decelerated as the round hits the feedramp, then transitions over the feedramp break-over.  Lastly, as the barrel raises into the locking lug recess, the slide is slowed further.  These "braking" forces reduce the impact on the slide stop.  But when you select the incorrect recoil spring, you alter this relationship.   A to heavy recoil spring will impart additional forces on the pin, increasing stress.  The pin is a compromise between being hard enough to resist wear, but not so hard as to be brittle.

 


Offline NoJoy

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Re: Firing Pin Replacement procedure
« Reply #12 on: June 16, 2012, 12:24:49 AM »
Hey great feedback.  Very stout gun (frame and slide), but the weakness my lie in the pin itself.  The Super would be an alternative to the 10mm since one does not exist yet for the 97B.  This round would be used for target-to get used to the recoil and becoming accuate with it-and a trail gun/round combo.  It looks like I could start with the 18lb recoil spring and go from there.  The Super rounds would be from Buffalo Bore and hell I might even try Doubletaps 450 SMC ammo.   ;)

Offline DDeslaur

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Re: Firing Pin Replacement procedure
« Reply #13 on: June 19, 2012, 07:46:49 AM »
Thanks Schmeky,
 that makes sense. I had never thought of this.