What to expect.

[Stuart]

Just got my 40P and looking at tearing it down..

to remove the sear cage..

do you remove the small plate that is underneath the decock lever...

then you do drive out the sear pin from the right side to the left ( looking down on the frame, with the dustcover pointed forward).

does the sear pin go all the way through..so if you drive it out..do all the springs and sear and levers come out?? use a slave pin to capture it all??

thanks for any advice, pictures, etc.

[cz40p-kid]

what the hell are you planning on doing to it?? surgery??
lol.

i cant offer any help but im curious to know what your plans are ...trigger work??

[Stuart]

I hope its not surgery..

kind of like taking things apart and looking...
and if I can make it better in the process...pretty cool.

[Striker90]

The small round plate under the decocker is there to keep the sear pin from walking out the Left side of the frame.  The plate will need to be removed (a dental pick is the best way).  
The sear pin MUST be driven out the left side of the frame.  And when reinstalling the pin it MUST be driven in from the left side.  The sear pin hole on the right side of the frame is smaller than the sear pin (to keep the pin from walking out the right side).  
When you disassemble the Ejector block (what you call the sear cage)  Make sure you memorize how everything was held together.  Nothing sucks worse than having to guess how stuff went back together.
Finally the Ejector block cannot be reassembled in the gun you have to reinstall the sear, decocker, and their springs using a slave pin (a 1911 sear pin cut down to length works perfectly).  The slave pin must have a diameter smaller than the factory sear pin.  
Once you have put everything back in the ejector block and the slave pin is holding it all together then you put the ejector block in the frame.  Then you install the sear pin from the LEFT SIDE of the frame.  As you drive the sear pin through the ejector block assembly it will push the slave pin out of the right side of the frame.  Due to the slave pins smaller diameter it will pass through the smaller right side hole in the frame without damaging anything.
This all sounds very difficult,  but with practice it will become familiar.
Check out the "Trigger Work " post in the 40P fourm.  Scroll about half way down and it will describe with pictures how to do a good trigger job

[KenJones]

When you disassemble the Ejector block (what you call the sear cage) Make sure you memorize how everything was held together. Nothing sucks worse than having to guess how stuff went back together.

Do you have a digital camera?  "Memorize" how things are held together with the camera.  I am 62 now and the camera's memory is a lot better than mine.  Taking lots of pictures has saved my fanny many times!
Ken

[woggon]

I agree with KenJones. If you have a poloriod (with some old film in resesve), a digital camera, or a cell phone camera... and decide to dig in.... take lots of images. I have made lots of mistakes on working on my own mechanical instruments in the course of my 29 years. By the looks of your post you are headed towards one of mine. This gun is no Kel-tec. It is accurate, and it has a crappy trigger. It's complex to put back together. Find some way to take it appart with recourse.

Good Luck

[Boogalou]

Heres some more info that I received when I disassembled my PCR -

p201.ezboard.com/fczechpi...=815.topic