Anodizing aluminum parts?

[smokemup]

My awesome VZ2008 needs a bit of attention. It has mismatched aluminum parts that I'd like matched to be in the same ballpark (black) as the receiver. I suppose what I want is a hard coat anodizing. Anyone have any references to folks that will do this at a reasonable price? The NEA hand guard is way too light of a gray, and the ACE butt stock is too shiny a black. Plus, I had to modify the lower hand guard to fit properly and that left an area of clear metal.

I eventually want to get that $205 trigger job done as well, but for now I'd be happy just to get the rifle to look presentable, as in a uniform color.

[RSR]

VZ2008s have a teflon coating, presumably a teflon-moly like brownells sells. 

I don't know how well paint will adhere to the teflon finish on the rifle however.  The other parts should be doable.  I'd recommend just finding a flat black duracoat (or even a flat krylon and invest the difference in getting rid of that slant brake) and hitting the parts you're concerned about w/ the paint. 

Personally, I think your rifle looks good as is.  I might add the foam to your stock (IMO charcoal-ish color of the foam helps it to blend w/ the grays and black of the rest of the gun and gets rid of most of the shiny)...

[drec]

I think that it looks good too.  I understand, you notice what is mismatched, but most people probably wouldn't.

[Horse]

Anodizing is a very sensitive process.  It depends on many different things including base material, time, temperature, dye, dye time/temp etc. 

Even worse is trying to re-anodize. 

The process will only work if all the parts are stripped back chemically or physically (blasting) - potentially changing all the physical dimensions and tolerances etc. 


Use paint/cerakote/duracoat etc.

[paskeCZ]

Use paint/cerakote/duracoat etc.

Before

after

[paskeCZ]

Duracote parker

http://www.houtsenterprises.net/dur_standard_3.html

[gwvt]

I also think the greys and blacks mixed look fine but hey, if you're going with DuraCoat, you could always go with their VZ2000 (on the next page of colors)...

[RSR]

Most aluminum takes birchwood casey super blue fairly well and comes out fairly dark charcoal to black in color -- blends quite well with standard AR receiver anodizing, NEA is lighter in color.  Bottle of the stuff should be $8 or so at any gun store. 
Standard bluing pens or solution often don't look as nice or work as well w/ aluminum...  But should be sufficient to kill the shine.

EDIT: I was thinking the Birchwood Super Blue and Aluminum Black were the same product w/ different concentrations.  Took a quick look at the MSDS, and that doesn't appear to be the case.
Aluminum Black: https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/getattachment/fa8a3a2c-974d-4840-8163-2974d6d7ec3d/Aluminum-Black-Touch-Up.aspx
Super Blue: https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/getattachment/53524855-b655-4e39-8794-955ecc154b58/Super-Blue%E2%84%A2-Liquid-Gun-Blue.aspx

Aluminum Black and Super Blue both have similar amounts of Selenious Acid, but the Super Blue has Cupric Nitrate and Cupric Phosphate whereas Aluminum Black has Cupric Sulfate and Nickel Sulfate, among other differences.

So if you want the best aluminum black, you're probably ahead to go w/ the Aluminum version over the previously mentioned super blue.  I'm happy w/ super blue and don't keep a lot of these chemicals on hand as they do go bad and am not that particular about firearm finishes beyond killing shine and bare metal...

[Franz Maurer]

if you need anything custom anodized get in touch with Mike
http://milnersanodizing.com/index.html
I once worked for Mike and can attest to his extraordinary dedication to accuracy, quality and Perfection.
Hardware guys like this are a rare breed anymore

get wild custom colors too! 

[mdi_weapon]

I'd spray it with Cerakote, bake it and be done. I love Cerakote Graphite Black mixed for the flattest finish. It is one of the blackest and flattest finishes you can get.