Trigger pin from hell and SAO trigger question

[Polyandsteel]

I actually bent the CGW punch in this stubborn beast. However, a combination of cold and a roll pin punch got t to budge, still working on getting it all the way out.

The OEM trigger pin is flared on both sides.  You will have to overcome the flare to get it to move.  You need to use a smaller punch than the diameter showing to ensure it has room to let the flare fold in.

I think the starter punch will just aid in keeping/causing the flare and not allow the pin to move.  If you have a small 1/16 pin punch you could try that.  I have a 1/16 "starter punch" that I converted over when I snapped the original tip off.  A little Kroil or penetrating oil will help it along once moving.  Home Depot has the el cheapo punches you could sacrifice into a starter punch.

Cheers,
Toby

The CGW Starter Punch was designed to tackle the trigger pin. Though I was reading a thread that one CZ pin stumped even schmeky so it's possible that OP just has a ton of bad luck! Hopefully he can get it out.

[SlvrDragon50]

Dang! Sounds like you got some bad luck with the pin. At least it's beginning to move! Just means it's a matter of time and force before it's out.

[M1A4ME]

How far out is it?

I ask because when I was driving the pin out of my Pre B CZ 85 I bent my punch.  Everything was going great, till the end of the pin I was hitting with the punch dropped down inside the trigger.  At that point the pin stopped moving when I hit the punch and it took me a couple/three smacks with the hammer to realize.  I started paying much closer attention, hit it again and convinced myself it had really stopped moving.  I hit it again, just to confirm that.

When I tried to pull the punch out it hung up (I've never had a punch hang up before).  I got a flashlight, looked down inside and saw the punch tip had turned sideways (some misalignment between the pin and the tip of the punch on one or more smacks with the hammer) almost 90 degrees.  I yanked/jerked/cussed some and finally got it to pull out with a set of pliers.

I squirted some oil around the holes and the pin and drove it part of the way back in with the hammer to get oil on more of the surface of the pin and then got another punch and drove it on out.

Then I sat down and just ordered a new set of punches as I was already missing a couple from that set (I found one today in a drawer of the tool box in the garage.)

So make sure, if you're not past the trigger already, to maintain correct alignment between the pin and the punch.

Are you reusing that pin?  If you are, don't even drive it all the way out.  Once it clears the trigger/spring and you can remove the trigger just do it that way.  Then you won't have issue restarting the pin into the hole in the frame.

[bpflats]

Looks like CGW sells an alternative to trigger pins from hell:

"CGW?s exclusive floating trigger pin.  Can easily be installed and removed an unlimited number of times in minutes!  Made from heat treated S-7 tool steel and hardened to RC-50.  Lifetime warranty!   Includes installation slave pin.  Fits all metal framed 75 CZ?s, Shadow, SP-01, P-01, PCR, 97, RAMI, etc.  Does not fit Tactical Sport, see part number 75006."

They explain:"TECH TIP:   Installation of the TR-PIN will require removal of the OEM trigger pin, which is a hollow steel tube, flared on each end.  The OEM pin is not a roll pin.  CGW?s forged steel starter punch, part number SP is highly recommended."

Jack

[Polyandsteel]

Taking this thing to a gunsmith tomorrow, hope to finally be SAO by the end of the week...

[1SOW]

Many of us use the CGW Floating trigger pins.  They are simple to remove and reinstall.
CZCustom also sells a splid trigger pin that has one end slightly larger than the hole.  It also is simple to remove and reinstall.  It can only go in or out one way.
  I strongly recommend replacing the stock hollow pin with one of these options the first time you plan to pull the stock pin.