Cajunizing spring consensus?

[mammynun]

I have a P-07 Urban Gray Suppressor ready and a Cajun Gun Works Pro-Grade Upgrade Kit P-07 P-09 (Part #97098), and I'm getting ready to install it. This will be my suppressed "nightstand gun," and I'll be using 147gr Federal HST's in it assuming they like to feed, are consistent POI-wise and are generally reliable. I previously Cajunized my SP-01, but it was done piecemeal and I don't recall exactly what pieces I used. So...

Is there a consensus as to what springs are "best?" I know it's very subjective, but I'd like to hear from some of you that have more experience with CGW.

I'm thinking the "Gold" 15 lb hammer spring will be fine with Federal HST's, any evidence to the contrary? I plan to test with 200 rounds of HST regardless of whatever springs I use, but the hammer spring is easy to change so I'm not concerned with changing to the 18 lb if needed.

Heavier sear spring(s): How much do you really "feel" it, or is it mostly to ensure positive engagement/anti-float protection?

Trigger return spring: I changed it on my SP-01, found I preferred the OEM, but left the CGW in as I'd heard the OEM tends to break. Is this an issue with the P-07?

Thanks in advance!

[Hemiscorpius lepturus]

I finished installing that kit last night, took me a week since I cracked the trigger while removing it and had to wait for a replacement. I polished the new trigger to a mirror shine, and polished flat the hammer spring strut, trigger bar, and pins.

The trigger bar polish probably made as much difference as the kit did, it was very rough (custom nickel-teflon billet replacement bar anyone?), I spent an hour on it with 800/2000/2500 grit sandpaper, then polished it with moly dry powder. I also did a 2500 only polish on the sear where it meets the hammer, very light, not enough to remove the finish completely, but enough to reduce the friction and flatten any rough spots. I also did a slight bend on the trigger bar spring, about half way between stock and what other people have bent to.

I used the 15# hammer spring and the yellow sear spring, single trigger is VERY light, I am glad I switched the sear spring, even considered the heaviest one when I first pulled the trigger, but got used to it quick. Double action is great with the lighter hammer spring, If I have any problems with my variety bag of quality range ammo I will switch to 18#. I also switched to the 15# recoil spring, as I have shot a stock with that and it felt better than the oe captive unit when using range ammo, with a +P or NATO round I would probably not use the 15.

I get to shoot it for the first time in less than 12 hours along with a bone stock one to compare, if I have any ignition problems I will report.

If you are running it suppressed with subsonic rounds, the extra mass may make extraction and ejection iffy, the lighter hammer spring will help, but you may need to play with the recoil spring.

[aliguori1963]

I have the gold line hammer spring but I had to compensate for the lighter primer strike with the CGW extended firing pin. Regarding the sear spring, if you have a CGW hammer in the gun, you MUST put a heavier sear spring in because the OEM one is too light to catch on to the CGW hammer hooks. I personally have the heaviest one in. The heavier sear makes the break super noticeable and extremely positive engagement. Lighter sear springs on the p09 at least make it a tiny bit mushy. With the CGW parts a light sear spring makes the break unnoticeable to the point that it's unsafe.

Hope this was useful!


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[Hemiscorpius lepturus]

No problems with any primers, shot about 200 rounds, all FMJ.

S&B 115, Winchester 115, Magtech 115, American Eagle Syntech 115, Browning BPT 147 flat nose, IMI NATO 124, and some mystery rounds.

No problems with extraction. I did have a couple of failure to lock the slide on last round, even with the 15# spring. That might have been on the Magtech (I call them Jamtech), and those are very weak, same thing happens in other guns, the Dan Wesson Discretion will not even eject them correctly, casing gets stuck before it leaves the slide about 20% of the time.

One of the S&B that I shot did not chamber without some extra force, but that was around round 180, and the gun was pretty dirty and very hot, feedramp was black.

I think I might agree with the TRS, once everything is polished its a little light, would like a high quality one at the original tension if the are ever made.