CGW recommended parts for full disassembly/reassembly

[yupp76]

Hey guys I'm new here but a big fan of CZ. Just want to say this forum is great from what I've read on here, so much info but I haven't found a clear answer for this so I figured I'd ask.

I have a Jerry's Special Semicompact from '04 and I tried taking it all the way down for a thorough cleaning and maybe some polishing but I stopped once I got the trigger pin halfway out after I realized it was staked and it might be too difficult to get back in after I fully removed it.

So I'm about to order CGW's floating trigger pin for the issue I mentioned above, while I'm at it I want to order a couple other parts such as the reduced power trigger return spring and maybe an extra slide stop to have around because I've seen instances of those breaking.

Are there any other parts you guys think I should include in this order? I'm thinking maybe some extra pins or springs that can be easily lost. I (almost) never use the double action so springs aren't a priority for me unless one is prone to failure, but I am considering a ring/race hammer and adjustable sear somewhere down the line.

[Peacetilence]

https://cajungunworks.com/product/srs-1-short-reset-system

[doc171]

If you are going to do a complete disassembly, in my opinion, go for the CGW complete PRO KIT or the DEFENSIVE CARRY KIT and not look back. But, that's my 1.5 cents worth.....

[Scarlett Pistol]

I always get the floating trigger pin, hardened firing pin Retaining pin, reduced power trigger return spring, reduced power firing pin spring, and a 15 lb hammer spring. That is if I am just swapping springs, polishing, and putting back together.

But it depends on what you want to accomplish... Every CZ I own get a CZC Competition Hammer or a Race Hammer. I fit the sear on my own.

Here's a little test I did on  the impact of all the parts. It is a sample of 1, but I've seen similar results across my other CZ's.

[yupp76]

I always get the floating trigger pin, hardened firing pin Retaining pin, reduced power trigger return spring, reduced power firing pin spring, and a 15 lb hammer spring. That is if I am just swapping springs, polishing, and putting back together.

Thanks for this, definitely adding hardened fp retaining pin.

Would I need the extended firing pin if I put in the 15lb hammer spring?

Also I think I read somewhere excessive dry firing with the stock configuration can cause issues but with some part of the upper assembly swapped out for the CGW part it is no longer an issue and I'm free to dry fire as much as I want. Sorry if this is worded poorly but do you know which part I may be thinking of? If it even exists.

Also thanksnto the other two posters here, I'm interested in the SRS-1 but think I can add more 'value' elsewhere because I don't do DA and I don't mind the current reset. $ issue applies to the full upgrade packages as well.

[yupp76]

Also as far as what I want to accomplish:

Mainly I wanted to learn more about how everything works which was my initial reason for the full take down. Aside from that my top two priorities would be reliability/durability, followed by single action trigger breaking clean and light (which I think the hammer and adjustable sear will solve once I get those further down the line).

[Scarlett Pistol]

I always get the floating trigger pin, hardened firing pin Retaining pin, reduced power trigger return spring, reduced power firing pin spring, and a 15 lb hammer spring. That is if I am just swapping springs, polishing, and putting back together.

Thanks for this, definitely adding hardened fp retaining pin.

Would I need the extended firing pin if I put in the 15lb hammer spring?

Also I think I read somewhere excessive dry firing with the stock configuration can cause issues but with some part of the upper assembly swapped out for the CGW part it is no longer an issue and I'm free to dry fire as much as I want. Sorry if this is worded poorly but do you know which part I may be thinking of? If it even exists.

Also thanksnto the other two posters here, I'm interested in the SRS-1 but think I can add more 'value' elsewhere because I don't do DA and I don't mind the current reset. $ issue applies to the full upgrade packages as well.

You're welcome. You only need the extended firing pin when you go to 13 lbs or less. The party our referencing is that hardened firing pin Retaining pin. I still use an o ring when  I dry fire, just to be extra safe.

Also as far as what I want to accomplish:

Mainly I wanted to learn more about how everything works which was my initial reason for the full take down. Aside from that my top two priorities would be reliability/durability, followed by single action trigger breaking clean and light (which I think the hammer and adjustable sear will solve once I get those further down the line).

Hammer is your key. If money is an issue you can fit the OEM sear yourself. Polishing makes everything feel way better! I think the parts you have are pretty solid for reliability. You can call CGW and get their recommendations too. Super nice and helpful guys. They've seen and worked on so many pistols that their knowledge base is crazy! There's a thread in the gunsmithing sticky section with tutorials on takedown, assembly, and how to do a bunch of upgrades. Have you seen those yet? Great threads on polishing in the sticky section too.


Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[Peacetilence]

Thanks for this, definitely adding hardened fp retaining pin.

Would I need the extended firing pin if I put in the 15lb hammer spring?

Also I think I read somewhere excessive dry firing with the stock configuration can cause issues but with some part of the upper assembly swapped out for the CGW part it is no longer an issue and I'm free to dry fire as much as I want. Sorry if this is worded poorly but do you know which part I may be thinking of? If it even exists.

Also thanksnto the other two posters here, I'm interested in the SRS-1 but think I can add more 'value' elsewhere because I don't do DA and I don't mind the current reset. $ issue applies to the full upgrade packages as well.

The short reset has nothing to do w/ DA. It shortens the reset after a trigger pull. The hardened FP retaining pin is part of the SRS-1 kit as well as the extended FP and a matching spring set. The spring set will improve SA pull especially if you stay w/ the original hammer. You can later upgrade to a race hammer, go for a different trigger, or change the disconnector. IMHO the SRS-1 provides the best price/performance for and initial update that doesn't break the bank and leaves the door open for future updates. Ah, and I was assuming you are already set on the floating trigger pin and reduced power trigger return spring -- highly recommended.

[1SOW]

On a budget,  get the hammer and hammer spring.  This will instantly improve the trigger pull and hammer break and make the pistol "easier" to shoot accurately. Later you can add more with no loss.
Be warned,  when you see the improvements to your pistol,  it's really hard to resist the other options available.

The pins mentioned above are smart to do.

[tothemax]

Yes absolutely !  I concur

[doc171]

OK, please consider the CGW starter punch and get a new hammer strut (it's cheap enough) because the factory hammer pins can be a hillary to get rid of.

[yupp76]

Hammer is your key. If money is an issue you can fit the OEM sear yourself.

On a budget,  get the hammer and hammer spring.  This will instantly improve the trigger pull and hammer break and make the pistol "easier" to shoot accurately.

How hard is it to fit the CGW hammer to the OEM sear? Will the safety still function correctly with the OEM sear if I fit it myself?

Also, what is the weight of the OEM hammer spring? Will the 15# hammer spring make that much of a difference?

The short reset has nothing to do w/ DA. It shortens the reset after a trigger pull.

Per the link you sent me for CGW's website: "The SRS-1 is our self defense short reset kit that doubles as a DA upgrade and at the same time reduces the SA reset up to 50%."

I know it would shorten the reset but I'd rather make other changes first.

OK, please consider the CGW starter punch and get a new hammer strut (it's cheap enough) because the factory hammer pins can be a hillary to get rid of.

What is the CGW starter punch most useful for? I already basically got my trigger pin out, but if its more useful for the hammer pins I may add this to the list.

I appreciate all the help guys, here are some pictures of my CZ because I heard you guys like pictures:

http://imgur.com/a/PnDCq heres the imgur album link bc these are huge in my browser and I'm not sure how to resize them

[1SOW]

Fitting the hammer to safety lug can be done by those with patience and a little experience working small metal surfaces.
For lazy "oops" -inclined old guys,  the CGW Adjustable sear is a Godsend.
With the hammer,  the fifteen pound spring will make a very noticeable improvement.   Lighter springs will likely need an extended firing pin and lighter FP spring.

The above are just my opinions and experiences with the full size 75s.  YMMV

[Scarlett Pistol]

How hard is it to fit the CGW hammer to the OEM sear? Will the safety still function correctly with the OEM sear if I fit it myself?

It isn't bad, just takes some patience. There's a video here,
http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=85985.0

Yes, the fitting restores the full functionality of the safety.