P09 trigger problem

[dangerranger]

Hello, I've been lurking here for awhile, could've sworn I made an account and posted some, but apparently not.

I have a P09 which I pretty much immediately installed the CGW short reset parts, ext. firing pin, 15 lb hammer spring, RP FP block spring, RP trigger return spring, and CZ custom hammer (this was before the CGW stealth hammer, wanted production legal), and CZ custom XP sear spring.

I had issues with ejection from the start.  I found rough spot on top of the extractor that was apparently causing enough friction to prevent the extractor from moving freely.  Polished the top flat area of the extractor and the problem went away.  It was an easy fix, but I went through a lot of trial and error trying to smooth other areas.  Just didn't think the ejection problems would be caused by the extractor.

Last trip to the range I noticed the SA trigger break point was all the way to the rear against the frame.  The trigger actually has to be pressed a little harder after it contacts the grip frame.  The trigger has always broke rather far to the rear, but this was a new development.  I also had several light strikes with the 15 lb hammer spring (I think this is the first time shooting factory ammo in the gun, normally handloads with CCI primers).  I've never had a light strike before.

I tore the gun apart.  I noticed the finish was worn off one side of the lower hammer and the same side of the sear.  I've been wanting to try the CGW hammer, so I went ahead and ordered the hammer, a new sear, and XP sear spring set from CGW.  I also swapped in the 17 lb hammer spring.  Probably about 1500-2000 rounds on the pistol.

Just sharing this to see if anyone has other ideas and to have the problem and solution posted here in the event others have similar issues.  I'll come back and update when the parts are installed.

[Indy_Tim]

Making a guess here, but when you installed the SRS kit, did you replace the roller?  Could also be that the sear or other part might be at the edge of tolerance and the new parts are putting it out of tolerance.  I had a P01 that when bought functioned fine out of the box, but when I put in a CGW Pro kit, I'd get an issue where the decocker would stick down and the hammer would need to be pulled back to allow it to decock.  I swapped parts into and out of the P01 and the Pro kit functioned fine in a 40P and the Pro kit from the 40P failed in the P01.  In the end, I ordered a new sear and decocker lever and the problem disappeared.  I'm not sure which one it was, but one of them was close to being out of spec and when replaced, it fixed the problem.

Could be a similar situation in your P09.

[BrazeauRacing]

I had the same problem with my P-09 with the CZ-UB competition hammer and xp sear spring.  It appeared that the sear spring was coil binding and not allowing the sear to lift enough to clear the hammer hooks.  I stoned each end of the xp sear spring enough to allow the sear to clear the hammer hooks, but I've never been real happy with the CZ-UB hammer.  I've modified all four of my factory hammers (two P-07s and two P-09s) by slightly (and carefully) shortening the hammer hooks to give me less creep in SA and just use the factory sear spring.  I can get a 2.75# SA trigger pull with the modified factory hammers, but a direct swap with the CZ-UB hammer gets a 3.25# pull.  I did all of this before CGW came out with their stealth hammer.

I've also gone back in and done the smoothing/polishing to the inside of the frame where the hammer rubs per DOC 1500's instructions in this thread which made a HUGE improvement in DA pull smoothness: http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=89604.0

Factory hammer, modified factory hammer, CZ-UB competition hammer:

[dangerranger]

Yes, I also put the oversized roller in. Also did some light polishing on the trigger bar and frame.

I was a little worried I polished the trigger bar too much or something, then I noticed the wear on the sear and hammer.

[dangerranger]

Ordered the parts from CGW late Saturday night, they arrived this morning.  Also noticed the thread about their shop moving.  That's pretty impressive.  Guess I'll find out tonight if the new parts fix it.

[DOC 1500]

Go into the smooth & tune section in the sticky section .near the end I put in a post about the hammer rubbing on the left side and what to do about it .give that a try see if it works for you my hammer no longer rubs the frame.

[dangerranger]

Go into the smooth & tune section in the sticky section .near the end I put in a post about the hammer rubbing on the left side and what to do about it .give that a try see if it works for you my hammer no longer rubs the frame.

I'll look at doing that tonight when I drop the parts in.  Thanks.

Edit: The new hammer, sear, and sear spring fixed the issue.  Trigger now breaks probably close to 1/4" forward of the frame.  Much crisper SA.

Did some work on the DA too, still needs more.  I did some work smoothing up wear the trigger rubs on the frame.  The hammer still audibly grinds on the frame during double action pulls, but that's a project for another day.

Thanks everyone.  There is a wealth of good information here.

[DOC 1500]

I was a little worried I polished the trigger bar too much or something, then I noticed the wear on the sear and hammer.

I don't think you can polish the trigger bar too much especially the side that rubs the frame, Stone it real good and polish it to Chrome