How to adjust CZ75 B SA trigger

[Bret]

I have a 2007 9mm CZ75 B SA.  I can see the screw at the top of the trigger that adjusts the overtravel, but I don't know where to adjust the pretravel or if I even can adjust the pretravel.  I understand that some older SA's don't have a pretravel adjustment.  Does anyone know of a link to a video?  If not, some instructions with pictures?  If not, how about some good instructions?  I can't seem to find a allen wrench that fits the overtravel adjustment screw.  What size is it?  Thanks in advance.

[max it]

Bret, I feel your pain; I have the same gun.
the other set screw is inside. just take off the upper part and it will be visible. you may have to hold the trigger in a bit to first find it.
as far as size I just don't remember if it was 64ths or mm. maybe 1 or 1.5 mm. its been a while.
in fact I am now trying to build up the trigger weight. That's why I signed on today; to see what others are doing.
I want to change my use of this wonderful gun from competition to concealed carry/competition. and I need a heavier trigger.

good luck, Max

[Lemming]

Yes. The pre travel screw is accessed with the slide off the gun. It's quite hard to see.

Be careful adjusing the two screws. Too little pre travel and the gun won't reset. Too little over travel and the hammer will catch on the sear, destroying it.

Search for a bit of info on how to set the screws before just diving in. ...

[Stuart]

B SA guns usually do not have a pre travel screw in the trigger.
Purpose being with the block you have to allow the trigger to come forward enough to reset both the sear and the FPB lever.

if you remove the block and the lever you can set it a lot closer.
Then you may be faced with replacing the trigger  or fitting a short reset disconnector. ( which is really super cool.)

[max it]

Yes. The pre travel screw is accessed with the slide off the gun. It's quite hard to see.

Be careful adjusing the two screws. Too little pre travel and the gun won't reset. Too little over travel and the hammer will catch on the sear, destroying it.

Search for a bit of info on how to set the screws before just diving in. ...

mine was modified with a trigger from CZCustom, or Cajun Gun Works, I think it was the latter. who by the way will have the allen wrench also. Max

[reshp1]

If you have the standard SA trigger, the one with the hook at the end, I don't think there is an pre-travel adjustment.

[Bret]

I know that it's been a while, but I'm back to working on this pistol.  Looking down inside the frame, I don't see anything to adjust the pretravel, but I want to be sure.  Honestly, this trigger is pretty disappointing compared to how I think that it should be, so I want to fix it up if I can.  Do you see any sort of pretravel adjustment in my frame?

[M1A4ME]

I think the factory SAO trigger only has one of the two screws.  The other hole is threaded, but there was not a screw in the one my youngest son has.  He bought one of the straight SAO triggers from CZ USA and it comes with both screws (over travel and pre-travel).

Somebody here posted about a screw he found that had the right threads and he bought a box of them (yeah, a box is a bit much but maybe not so much when you consider the cost of a single screw along with the shipping costs you pay for buying the screw on line.

I saved a picture of the box from his post (sorry I can't remember who first shared this with us).  I've never bought any of these so I can't say, personally, how they'd work.

[newageroman]

Having just converted my 75B to SAO with a gifted polymer SAO trigger with the curved tip, this thread interest me. I only saw one place for a set screw (which I left empty), and it seemed to be in the spot for overtravel. The pistol seems to work and shoot fine, but do I need to check to make sure the hammer isn't contacting and wearing the sear as mentioned a few replies up?

[Bret]

When I pull the trigger on my SA, there is take-up until I get to a wall of resistance.  If the hammer would just drop as I apply more pressure, things would be great.  Unfortunately, when I pull through the wall the trigger again moves (probably about 1/8" inch at its tip) before the hammer falls.  As a result, it's very difficult to consistently make accurate shots even though the pistol is capable of it.  How can this additional travel beyond the wall be eliminated?

Honestly, the additional travel beyond the wall is bad compared to most other pistols that I own.  I just picked up a well used Sig P228 yesterday.  When I pull the trigger on it in double action mode, it is smooth as can be all the way through the pull without any sort of wall until the hammer drops.  When I pull the trigger on it in double action mode, it is smooth as well.  When I get to the wall and apply additional pressure, the hammer drops without any bit of further rearward trigger travel.  Something's wrong when the trigger of a well used P228 is far better than that of a CZ75 B SA.

[cntrydawwwg]

A race hammer would get rid of that wall and camming of the hammer.

[Bret]

I don't mind the wall.  In fact, I like it.  I just don't like further travel beyond the wall.  What do I need to do in order to get rid of the further trigger travel beyond the wall?

[M1A4ME]

I put a CGW race hammer and adjustable sear in one Compact to get rid of anything past "the wall."

I put a spur hammer (sort of like a Pre B hammer, but it won't fit a Pre B gun, it's made to allow the B model guns to use a spur hammer) in another compact and got rid of that stock feeling trigger.  Talk to the guys at CGW or CZ Custom, they have hammers/sears that will give you want you want.