Grease for internals after polishing

[hexxxxx]

Hi all,

I've recently acquired a CZ 75 PCR and decided to polish the internals. I've disassembled everything thanks to the detailed posts of users in this forum and am in the process of polishing the parts.

One thing that I wasn't sure about was what to apply to the parts once I'm done. Everything was covered in quite a lot of grease when I disassembled it and I wiped everything down. Should these small parts be covered in grease like that, or should I just apply grease to the contact points? Also, should I use anything special for the areas that I sanded down and polished?

I use a lightweight grease on the slides (cherrybalmz to be specific). I also have some paraffin based turbine oil, some petroleum/teflon oil laying around too. Any suggestions on what's best to use would be great.

[rdcinhou]

CGW's Super Slick Slide Grease on the slide rails.
A drop of oil Hoppes Elite on anything "shiny".
FrogLube on everything else but the grips.

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

I use LPC on everything ,no grease. Have done so for eons and after tens of thousands of rounds collectively none of my guns show any adverse wear. If grease is your thing though go for it.

[M1A4ME]

Grease is a heavy duty lube.  Used on things that are under a high load, lots of weight, lots of force, maybe lots of heat.  And it will still fail, at times.

I use grease on three (types) of rifles.  M1 Garand, M1A and SIG556R - in areas where it doesn't get very dirty very fast and will last through more than a couple/three shooting sessions.  The whole purpose of grease on the M1 Garand was due to heavy/heavy/heavy rains washing the originally prescribed oil in the Pacific islands.

I just oil.  While I may use more than a lot of people (a drop here and a drop there but I clean/lube more often than many people) I don't have malfunctions from lack of lube, nor from too much lube, nor do I find rust inside/outside my guns.

The grease you found inside your pistols was probably more of a preservative seen on some guns shipped from the factory designed to protect the internals from rust/corrosion during shipping/storage prior to sales to customers.  Most everyone here recommends cleaning/lubing a new pistol prior to going to the range as that preservative stuff isn't a really good lubricant.

[n8vmdpath]

Brownells action lube plus..use sparingly..



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[cntrydawwwg]

The grease that was on the internals is just a packing preservative, not a lube. All my internals get oil.

[Tok36]

I usually add a conservative amount of CGW grease to the polished contact points while i am reassembling. Lubing up the contact points can decrease the trigger pull weight by a small amount in some cases. I also use grease on the rails because it tends to stay put better than the thinner alternatives that i have tried. I use a bit of Slip 2000 EWL on everything else.

[hexxxxx]

Thanks for the replies, guys.

Just wanted to report back in that I successfully managed to reassemble everything after a nice polish along with installing the 3 piece spring kit from CGW. I did break two of the lifter springs along the way though  , next time I will probably get an actual dummy pin for the sear cage. I suspect that there's a broken leg from one of the springs still resting under the sear cage though... but the trigger is butter smooth now, and the reduced # hammer spring gives the gun a much nicer feel for me

[RSR]

G96 CLP is great for hitting the steel parts that will rust w/o lube: https://www.amazon.com/G96-1055P-Complete-Triple-Action-Treatment/dp/B0000DD5TL

I use weapon grease on contact points (and don't use G96 where I'll be applying grease).

FWIW, I think G96 CLP is toxic so wear nitrile gloves when using, and VOCs, etc, instructions require you to let dry for at least 10 min prior to putting weapon into sealed safe after cleaning.

G96 should also know better than to let their graphic/web designers to flip photos and put forward assists and charging handles on the wrong side of the weapon: