Doggone it. Took pictures but the new iPhone is still being a pain. Been fighting with it and technical support all day. Anyone argue with a computer? I kept telling the automated help system I wanted to speak to a customer service representative and it kept telling me it could help me faster and then it would go right back into the dead loop we had already pursued.
Anyway, I'll take pictures again when the latest update is over.
The CGW parts came in yesterday. I sat down today and put most of them in (some were spares for the spares container in the garage.)
I also installed the spur hammer.
Used the CGW reduced power trigger return spring.
The CGW reduced power firing pin block spring.
The CGW firing pin retaining pin (more on that in a minute.)
Also did a very small amount of stoning/polishing. Barely took some finish off the sides of the trigger bar as there was only one small spot of wear showing (least amount I've ever seen). Stoned just a bit on the tops of the trigger bar humps. Stoned just a bit on the back of the disconnector where it drags on the frame (didn't touch the frame). Didn't touch anything else.
Got it put back together (that little firing pin block lifting arm spring decided to be a pain in the butt) and oiled it up as I put it together.
SA trigger pull comes back to the "wall" after lifting the firing pin block at 2 lbs. (combination of the trigger return spring, friction, and firing pin block movement). Apply more rearward pull and the hammer drops at 3 lbs. No more rearward movement till the hammer falls. I'm really happy with it. Nope, didn't even think to check the DA trigger pull, but I'll go get that now. I'm curious. Oh, and try and take a couple new pictures of the CZ85 looking .40 S&W CZ75B.
DA trigger pull is unchanged. Still 10 lbs. Odd, but it doesn't matter, I don't use it anyway.
edited to add:
Forgot about the firing pin retaining pin comment. The new pistol has not been dry fired without a snap cap (brand new one I just got out of the bag.) The retaining pin still had a small amount of damage. Not yet "cracked/broken", but dented in a little.
I had mentioned in a previous post/thread about modifying the notch in a firing pin to insure it didn't contact the retaining pin any longer. Well, I don't think it can be done. The rear of the notch doesn't just "kiss" the pin, it smacks it pretty hard. With the firing pin retaining pin removed, if you look through the FPRP hole in the slide and pusht the firing pin forward it goes far enough to completely block the hole. Not a little, not 1/4 - all the way. That's a lot of metal to remove to stop it from hitting the pin.
Now, the firing pin may never, ever, move forward far enough just under the force of the hammer striking it, but I have no way of measuring how far forward it will go with nothing to restrict it except the pin or the primer or the snap cap. That idea is out, for me. I'll just check them now and then and see what they look like. Part of a seldom done, but probably necessary, maintenence/inspection routine.