Here is the prototype shim installation on my P-10C, after 100+ rounds and two barrel cleanings.
I started with an 0.006" brass shim stock and some JBWeld quick set epoxy. I left the tab extension on the shim to make sure I could attach the shim securely. I chose this location for the shim as there is only clamping, no sliding, at this point of contact with the slide. If I had added the shim to the locking block or to the bottom lug on the barrel, the shim would be subject to much sliding wear as the barrel locked and unlocked.
I knew 6 mil plus the epoxy would be too thick, so I planned on manually filing down the shim stock as squarely as I could to get the barrel to clear the lug when reassembling the pistol. I had to remove maybe half the shim and I obviously didn't get it square. When I redo this barrel with just the shim on the ledge without the extension, I will use as little epoxy as possible and file more carefully to fit. Even with my sloppy prototype, I had to go down 6 clicks on the Burris sight to get back even close to zero, so I very definitely took up some of the excessive clearance. The 100 yard target results also looked good after the modification.
My P-10S prototype just has a very narrow piece of shim stock epoxied to the ledge without the extension to the round portion of the barrel. I think that one will be OK as well, but I don't have many rounds through that pistol and I didn't even bring it with me to New Mexico.
I plan on shooting the P-10C at 200 yards tomorrow, after a good day on Friday with the P-09, which still has a factory barrel and no shim.
Joe L