new 75 compact and questions

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

Yes I understand how one system works compared to the other. I would never prep the gun and send it off to the bluer. The bare surface begins to oxidize almost immediately. For the best finish possible the gun needs to hit the tank as soon as the polishing is done.

[Steve Menegon]

Interesting... it think I forgot to mention that I'm using boltaron hard case holster with leather inside liner. I cannot tell how the polycoat  works with kydex surface...
[/quote]

I've carried my 75D Compact for the last 3 years in a kydex holster. I have no wear marks to speak of. I check all the time. I believe part of the issue with kydex wear are the accuracy and wear on molds and the attention to detail paid by the craftsman. I bought my 75D Compact holster from 2AHolsters. It was not as inexpensive as others offered. I was sure happy about it when I looked it over. On the other side of that, I picked up an inexpensive one for my SP-01 UGT. Once home with it, I found it inferior in many ways. It is in the drawer of doom unused. Poor fitment. I have not seen the vendor since I bought it, but there will be more shows. Conclusion, polycoat holds up great in a properly done holster.

[metric]

75 Compact is in, and test fired yesterday.

Pleasantly surprised with the accuracy and the stock sight regulation, which allows high-precision, long-range shooting (front sight does not obscure the target). I will be keeping the stock sights. I was plinking small targets and rocks out at 60-100 yards like this was a dedicated high-accuracy setup.

Reliability was 100%, but I wasn't expecting anything less.

Installed the mcarbo spring/pin kit (except for the mainspring), and a stainless guide rod. Trigger is now perfect for weight, but I will definitely have to adapt to the SA creep. Does anyone know if any aftermarket hammer and/or sear can reduce the stock SA creep?

The reason I didn't install the lighter mainspring was that primers were getting a fairly shallow dent. I didn't encounter any misfires, but don't want to press my luck. The pull was satisfactorily lightened already.

Looking forward to replacing the factory plastic grips, when my LOK ones arrive.

Overall, this fits the role I was looking to fill perfectly. High-cap, carryable pistol that allows high-precision shooting with all-steel construction that is built to last forever and can't be destroyed by a dog looking for something to chew. It may not get the casual carry time of some of my light plastic pieces, but I'll carry it for outdoor, long-range shooting, or when my threat assessment rises.

Thanks for the help/info.

[jurek]

I've been using "13# main spring" and "firing block plunger spring" from CGW. Didn't want to spend extra bucks on hammer...but these two made the job. Everyone has different preferences, so perhaps other has more ideas about changing the hammer and / or sear.
With lighter main spring I have proper primer's hits.

[M1A4ME]

If "creep" is the length/feel of trigger rearward movement between firing pin block lift and hammer release then a performance hammer from CGW or CZ Custom will give you the clean break you want.

On difference is in the depth of the notch (in the hammer) that the sear fits into to lock the hammer back.  A shallow notch results in less movement of the sear (and the trigger) to release the hammer.

A good hammer can make that trigger pull so clean/crisp that it will feel lighter than it really is.